it appears to be so, usually that's all the adding oil does, coat the ring for better seal.

cylinders need Min. 100 psi to detonate... older Rebuilt V8 have around 250psi. +/- 20psi.. Some Newer (foreign) engines have around 350psi. (need to check your specs)

Well all of your compression is too low to run. Have you tried to do a wet compression test? It sounds like something may have happened to the piston rings on installation. What type of tool did you use to install them?

@@pccastengineperformance7844 hey man, thanks for your efforts, I rechecked the timing belt and found that the belt was 3 tooth away from being timed, got it to where it should be and the compression jumped back to a minimum of 150 dry compression however, I have an interference engine, one cylinder had both intake valves bent resulting in 0 compression 😭

How much oil you put, you lowered the volume inside

Hey Corey, sorry for the late response - yes, you definitely have a valve sealing issue. Sounds like it's time to pull the heads.

@@pccastengineperformance7844 no worries. It was throwing so many codes, none of which were on the #5 cylinder. I don't have a leak down tester, couldn't find one around that I could use and didn't want to spend $100+ for a one time use. I'm currently in the process of breaking it down now. By the time I get it back together it will have new heads, O2 sensors, cam synchronizer and sensor, oil sender switch, maf, iac, pcv, injectors, coil pack, wires, plugs and crank position sensor. So if all that don't fix it, it might have an LS in it in the next few months...... thanks for the response, btw.

After performing the wet test, you really need to start and run the engine until it's warmed up to clear out all the oil. Once that's done you can get a proper "dry" test. Your numbers really don't look to bad for a cold engine (depending on the engine of course!)

@@pccastengineperformance7844 it's out of the car. What if I do it in a week.will that clear the oil ?

@@sparklingsams3155 It will be a little closer, but that oil will make a nice coat on the cylinder wall until it's washed out or burned out. If you crank it enough times there should be enough scraped off to get close to "normal" dry test readings.

I'm going to go with the assumption you're referring to running a thicker oil as engine oil and not just using it for the wet compression test. With that in mind the answer to the question is definitely NO. The only compression issue it could possibly help with would be failed piston rings, as it would have no affect on any other cause of compression loss (burned valves, damaged pistons, failed head gaskets, etc.) And if the compression loss were due to piston rings, it is the compression rings that have failed, not the oil ring(s). Even if both the compression and oil rings are failed, cylinder pressure will be pushing past the rings and blowing the oil back into the crankcase, so it would be unable to help with low compression. It used to be very common to run a thicker oil in a worn engine (usually to help with low oil pressure). That's something I definitely do not recommend in a modern engine anyway. The very small oil passages used to get oil to the top end of the engine will not allow the thicker oil to flow up there as fast, and can lead to damage of camshafts, valvetrain components, etc. So probably too much information, but in short, nope.

@@pccastengineperformance7844 Thanks for the answer, looks like it will not help to piston engines, but may improve it for rotary engines because everything is sealed inside.

@@She1lby I can see that a little more - those apex seals have to stay wet. I've had several RX7's and RX-8s that sat for a couple days or more in cool weather and wouldn't start until some oil went down the intake to get those seals working again. The thicker oil may stay on those seals a little longer - although I would be curious to see what a really thick oil would do to a rotary's ability to turn higher RPM's!

@@pccastengineperformance7844 Probably gains will be roughly the same as power loss to a higher friction. I have RX8 and trying to find out optimal oil that will burn well and protect engine better than 5w30 Mazda's oil (9.6cSt at 100C). Not sure if increase up to 11-12.5 cSt at 100C will be enough, also it's hard to tell how changes in flash point from a different oil will affect amount of deposits i.e. do you need to lower this number as much as possible for easier burn?

Hi sir just asking why you pulled the online classes down... some of us we don't have such great information 😭😭 please put them back our intentions is to learn how to fix car the right way.. help us to be better techs.. thank you sir

When you add oil rings seal better and compression will raise for good or worn rings ( if the compression stays about the same you need to consider damaged components, rings,valves, gasket etc.) So the magnitude of the increase is what counts, If your rings and cylinder are good the compression increases but it will not be as great as when you have have worn rings and cylinders.

You are fire 🔥😏