ur awesome

I have nowhere near as much experience as you but I was the exact same. It's about reminding ourselves of these basics and really grounding this knowledge. It's quite inspiring to hear that someone of your experience is still recapping on this kind of thing Mark! Shows that this is a life long journey that we are all on in honing our craft.

i just had a very similar experience. had a jaw drop moment in there somewhere.

Same.

thank you!

WHAT? with what photography or film? Well, not with photography i guess, F/2 on a fullframe camera with a 50mm lens is f/2. with a cropsensor you have to multiply the f-stop by the cropfactor

@@ridderus To help clarify, the "f" in and F stop literally stands for "focal length" (Focal Length/F Number). The physical focal length of a lens does not change regardless if its on a full or crop sensor. Focal length, in short, is the physical distance between the lens and the modal point, all inside the lens. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens on both a full frame and a crop. This is why if you buy a lens made for a MFT or APS-C you still have to apply the crop factor to the lens. What you're thinking of is "Field of View", or how much of the projected image the sensor sees/uses. As for how much light an aperture lets in, that has nothing to do with the sensor or a camera. Only the lens. Hope this helps.

@@hollow246 The lens doesn't physically change but effectively it is longer on a crop sensor.

William Currie The ‘F’ in f-stop is actually just an algabraic symbol. It is simply a fractional indication of the ratio of the aperature vs focal length. I don’t know what blogger or ‘expert’ decided that f stood for Focal Length but it’s suddenly all over the web. Just go to the wiki page for F-number and read it . Any documentation uses it as symbol not a letter.

Otherwise you wouldn't be able to have a 25 shutter at 25 fps. You usually wouldn't do that though because it would be to blurry.

So at 48 fps and shutter speed 1/96, you get the same motion blur as 24 fps shutter speed 1/48?

@@billythecat I should have clarified that the rule applies more in the lower frame rate range up to maybe 30fps or 48fps. If you had a mirror setup to have two identical cameras see the exact same point of view towards a high movement scene, with Cam A set to 24fps and 1/48th (180 degree shutter) and with Cam B set to 48fps and 1/48th (360 degree shutter), you could take a single, high-movement frame from both cameras at the same time and…they would look identical. I believe one of the recordings would have to be horizontally flipped in camera or in post. Anyway when played back, Cam B’s 48fps recording would appear smoother because it’s twice the temporal information being updated, but the motion blur would be the same because both cameras would be exposed for the same amount of time for matching frames. If you took out every other frame from the 48fps recording that the other recording didn’t capture and doubled up on the frames to fill in the gaps, the two recordings would be indistinguishable. If the 180 degree rule was applied to Cam B, then each frame would be exposed for 1/96th of a second and have half of the exposure and motion blur. As far as aesthetic goes, 48fps and higher frame rates don’t need to follow this rule if they are going to be played back in real time. Those can shoot with a 360 degree shutter, so 48fps > 1/48th, 60fps > 1/60th, etc. But if it is going to be played back at a slower rate, especially 24fps, then the 180 degree aesthetic should probably match unless a crisper look is needed for the scene. So most of the time a 60fps shot that will be slowed down to 24fps should shoot at 1/120th or 180 degree shutter so that when played back at 24fps, the motion blur will appear as if it was shot at 24fps and 1/48th if somehow reality was happening at 40% speed. Hopefully that made sense.

@@homedepotindustrialfan936 I've never touched a camera but I'm trying to make an animation look realistic by adding the motion blur effect and adjusting its shutter speed parameter. Those tips on framerate and shutter speed are priceless. I can't thank you enough

@@billythecat Oh cool, glad to hear it’s helping!

You're welcome!

4:34 Did you misspeak there? I thought image quality went up with lower ISO and down as ISO went up. I thought with increased ISO noise also increased. Similarly, I thought something similar applied with film in that graininess increased with higher ISO film.

Thank u so much for giving english captions/ subtitles. They r really important for us. Some of my friends unsubscribed u because they didn't understand what u r sayning in english. Please always add captions. Because there r some very different words in these videos (like aperture, iso, shutter, saturation, ) and many more. We don't use such words in ordinary life. So , plz always add english captions

Great tips thanks!

instablaster

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subscribed!!!

It's not true that lowest iso= lowest noise

The ISO value the CLOSER is to the native ISO of the machine the less noise you'll have

But it depends on the machine, the majority of them has 100, 400, or 500

@@alessandrodimilla8450 Yeah you're right if you go below native ISO it will produce more noise. I suppose I try to keep it low since my camera's native ISO is 100 (though ISO 400 hundred is close to being a second native ISO thanks to Sony's trickery). I suppose my revised advice would be to keep ISO closest to the native. Also another issue with setting ISO to Auto during video is that it might change the ISO in the middle of the shot depending on if you're panning the camera from a slightly darker are to a brighter one, it happens on my A6300. Or if an actor walks into the shot, the color of their costume might change the ISO as well if a lot of light is bouncing off it. I suggest setting everything manually before actually hitting the record button.

@@Chakranimated I agree with you. Much love for Sony tho, they got sweet cameras that can shoot in the dark ayy

You're missing what his entire point was about, if cameras could go to lower ISOs than you wouldn't need ND filters.

You’re welcome!

Thanks

I would recommend learning how to shoot in Manual, for both Photo and Video. When you're starting out, using Av or Tv makes sense. But once you are starting to feel like you really want to level up, Manual all the way :)

Pun always intended!