I'm a flyash provider

Thank you!

Thanks Roberto!

Thanks so much.

Thanks for watching!

@@TylerLey Dear Tyler, thanks for replying. I make concretes with Waste to Energy Ash, pretty interesting concretes, they are light-weight, photocatalytic and are self-healing and are made with a waste byproduct, I'd like to know if you would like to make a vid about it.

Thank you for the message! I agree that silica fume is a cool tool.

@@TylerLey Awesome info you're providing. So apparently, due to the huge increase in compressive strength using silica fume / fibres, they can use less re-bar and build with less material using it. Do you have a video on super-plasticizers also?

Shades2 - Silica fume can help with this. It depends on what you need your structure to do. If your structure can allow slender members then silica fume is great. However, there are many members where strength is not the goal. Here is the water reducer video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8WAqr12mp23nJc.html Thanks so much for watching and for your comment!!!

@@TylerLey Master,I use silica fume to produce magnesium oxysulfate concrete. There are good aspects, anti-permeability,dimension stability increased, but strength decreased,it might be wrong way of mix slurry ,low speed mixer,time, etc, i don't know.Someone said,the best way is use fly ash mix with silica fume. I wish to increase durability of mganesium concrete,but do not scrafice lot of strength,is it possible?

I like that idea. Let me think about it.

Jon, you can try using one of my impermeable self-healing nano and micro reinforced concrete made from Waste to Energy Ash.

What about a combination of say type f fly ash and silica fume?

@@ndenise3460 What about a concrete that is made with Waste where all the aggregates come from waste a concrete that is impermeable, self-heals and is photocatalytic... That is Ashcrete

what about organic ash as additive for concrete??

I'm trying to find the answers to this as well! 🤣 Mostly landscaping projects and I have these materials as waste!

Thanks for watching!

Good question! I need to make a video about metakaolin. In the US metakaolin is only available in limited regions. I could also do one on natural pozzolans but they vary a lot between sources.

you could try glass/polyester etc fibre reinforcement, or basalt fibre, or micro stainless steel fibre. plenty of vids on 'Net.

Thank you!

No, nothing like it. The K (and Na, Mg etc) will wash out as hydroxides, very alkaline, if left exposed to air they will gradually absorb CO2 to become less alkaline. If irrigating with them they can build up in the soil and 'salt' it if you don't irrigate/dose properly. The bio-char will have most of the minerals that would be in the ash anyway. the erosion resistance of the bricks depends mostly on the vitrification effects of the firing and/or if you chose to use the minerals K/Na etc to 'salt glaze' the bricks.

Fly ash increases aircrete strength and flexibility.

Use Hardcem from Cementec.

The reason that the mix fails is that the flyash is not really fly ash we bought it from an unreliable source

Thanks, I will check it out. I am working on a foamed concrete video. That may talk about the insulation.

@@TylerLey i would like to be alert wend you publish this futur vidéo about aircreet and maybe your sugestion about the experiment of "Honey do carpenter"

hydrated lime is still available, with a bit of ingenuity you can still make lime mortars.

@@bikerfirefarter7280 I have made it that way for repointing old, soft brick. I just mixed mason sand with hydrated lime. It works great but takes weeks to set up. I introduced some portland cement to make it set a little faster but that defeats the purpose. If I recall, there used to be another form of lime like anhydrous or something that sets faster. Hydrated lime basically needs to dissolve naturally and rebond in order to set. That's the power of lime, that it's doing this all the time, it's self healing. With this method I think that self-healing is the only way that it sets up. Besides being self-healing, it doesn't shrink as it sets, causing all kinds of bonding failures, weakness and leaks in repair work. That's the other huge advantage of lime mortar, and the third crucial advantage is that it's softer than the material you are typically mortaring together. So it doesn't damage and fracture that material! Portland mortar is very hard and strong so people think they're doing a great job. Then when the old bricks fall apart and fracture because the mortar was so hard, they say "well the mortar was good but those old bricks just couldn't be saved", which is the exact opposite of the truth. Not only is Portland mortar hard and not self-healing, meaning it will eventually fracture and turn back to dust, but it shrinks as it sets so it actually places more stress on repaired areas, and then it doesn't allow settling and rehealing. It's basically a disaster for old soft brick or natural stone. And all of that is why they didn't use it to repoint the Washington Monument. I believe they went through a lot of work to research these issues and recreate an appropriate lime mortar. Either that or maybe they imported it from Italy.

@@fieldlab4 'lime mortar' is not just hydrated lime and sand. 'anhydrous lime' is calcium oxide, otherwise known as 'quick lime', very caustic. hydrated lime mortars, and most other cements fully cure through the years by adsorbing CO2 which reacting with the calcium (and alkali metals) become carbonates. Corporals Corner has a video on 'Roman concrete', that will point (scuse pun) you in the right direction. I have used 6:2:1 of sand: portland:hydrated-lime as a substitute for old school lime-mortar with good results. Plastering sand works well. Setting time is a little longer but acceptable. In places where setting time needed to be quicker various accelerators can be used. Small amounts of sodium silicates can be a useful additive. In outdoor situations I have also accelerated the setting by tenting the work with a tarp and putting a steel bucket full of charcoal under the tarp (one 12mm dia hole in the bottom of the bucket), light the charcoal FROM THE TOP to avoid CO, and when it's lit after 5-10 minutes to establish, put a fairly well fitting lid over the bucket (slate or stone etc) and put it under the tarp. The charcoal slowly burns overnight and the CO2 released rapidly hardens the exposed mortar (be careful of any carbon monoxide). see also. www.limetec.co.uk/limetec-lime-mortar-mix-ratio.html

I have not done any but there are others that have.

@@TylerLey can you recommend.? Links possibly?? Please....♥️🇹🇹

Sorry, that is cement chemistry notation =). Most of the concrete people know it but I could see where it would be confusing.

Possible by reducing your superplasticizer admixture dosage in the mix or by introducing Accelerating Admixture in your mix

It creates more paste in the mixture. This can have lots of negative effects on the concrete.

@@TylerLey it can also be cost effective

Best finishability is straight cement, ask any artist, I mean cement finisher.

Yes, it is called pyhrotite attack. It is a big deal and there is not much you can do about it. =(

Wow‼️so 😥

Nonya - Not all fly ash is toxic. Furthermore, placing it in concrete is a great way to encapsulate it and get awesome benefits from it.

Tyler Ley I use metakaolin a lot.

In my overlays and countertops

Metakaolin is great. It is pretty expensive in my region.

So were did the name 'fly' come from? Cuz the ash tends to fly away in the Wind?

Thanks, Can you tell me more about your problems?

@@TylerLey I think what he's trying to say is that fly ash and slag affect finishablility. Weather you're running a troweling machine, hand troweling or broom finish. I've never meet a finisher who said "I love fly ash". I understand the benefits it has, but ask any finisher and they'll tell you that straight mixes finish the best. In my region (Midwest), they typical fly ash dosage is 100 lbs.