It's good to now that the power input is about a third compared to they advertised with. My assumption here is that the light output of the leds corresponds to the light output of a 300W filament/halogen light source which is somewhat correct(ish). I was about to buy the 600W or the 760W version for different purposes. Thanks for taking it apart!

I'm really looking to wire a light bar to my house for added security...(I live way out in the sticks and its plenty dark at night).. I want to hard wire it to my breaker panel and add a standard light switch down the line...plus will be adding a motion sensor... Minus adding the sensor, how could I go about wiring it to 120v output without killing the lightbar??

What's the math to figure watts from knowing the amps?

I wish i have good garage like you, full of tools, i needed 20 days to make FreeTrackIR with tools that i have, and this is 10 min. job :(

Yeah Tyson don't feel too bad, you don't accumulate a good set of tools in a short amount of time it takes years to get that perfect set of tools, as they say Rome wasn't built in a day ya know lol also @RDAllen in my opinion a good light bar shouldn't drop amps or volts in its electrical intake just because it's been deconstructed, from what I've seen from all the light bars my buddies have gotten most of what can be taken apart on a light bar is the reflectors and the external skeleton, I may be wrong but if something drops it's amperage pull because it's protective casing has been removed is caused by what I call an overlap with the positive and ground where the ground wire isn't secured enough and the positive tries routing power through the ground wire, that happened when the headlights in my truck stopped working because of an electrical failure, it was a major pain but I was able to rewire it in about 2 hours and haven't had any problems since