Thanks for watching. Glad you liked the video.

Thanks Don. I appreciate you watching and commenting. The repair done in this video cost 1/10th the replacement estimate the customer already had gotten. When done correctly, with the right material, mudjacking can be a fantastic solution for most concrete problems.

Thanks, buddy. Thanks for finally watching one.....ha ha.

Definitely a cost effective alternative. Thanks for watching.

Thank you. I will certainly do another video on this later, showing some more difficult projects that we do all the time.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks, Brian. I had this done to my first home back in 1987, and thought it would be a great business to get into. I was right.

Thanks, Dave, for watching!

Thanks for watching!

HowellSlabJacking.com is The Oldest, Most Experienced SlabJackers in Our Area! Family Trade since 1989 Serving Central Illinois & Central Indiana. HowellSlabJacking.com 🇺🇸

2024bear HowellSlabJacking.com is The Oldest, Most Experienced SlabJackers in Our Area! Family Trade since 1989 Serving Central Illinois & Central Indiana. HowellSlabJacking.com 🇺🇸

Thanks Tom for watching. SUBSCRIBE!!!

Thanks, Ron, and thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching again, Robert.

Thanks Dru.

No way, Eric! I thought it was so freaking cool 30 years ago that I made it my life's work, along with woodworking. Thanks for watching.

What is the average costs?

I used to do epoxy injection waterproofing....for about 20 years. I got tired of crawling around in wet crawlspaces. More streamline these days.....the business, that is.

Marcos & Angi Romero go mudjack

Fill the holes with Sakrete sand mix.

@@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop thank you for the response

Mudjacking is not designed for lifting footings and foundation walls. You will need to find someone who does foundation lifting. It's underpinning, and is a different process.

Yes, a 2nd row of holes is drilled to fill the voids in the center of the slab. Not shown in the video due to keeping the length short, but done on all jobs where warranted.

You have to know where the location of the drain tile is. Drain tile is typically found next to the footing, not up high where a slab is found. If you are pumping any material right next to a drain tile, there's always a risk of filling it and rendering it useless, but if you know what you're doing (we do) that risk is mitigated with experience.

This is a seasonal business, and we shut down for the winter when the ground is frozen. Start up, each spring, depends on when the ground is thawed. We do not go to Des Plaines. Too far away from Crystal Lake. Thanks for watching.

@@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop But you do go to Glenview........according to Mapquest, it's only a 4 mile difference, but that's OK.............I'll find someone else.

We only stay local. I'm sure you can find a qualified mudjacking contractor in your area.

PS I live in the Detroit area, and the quote I received for the poly foam was 2.3 times more expensive than the quote I received for the alternative....but I am not sure now what is that alternative, mudjacking or crushed limestone. The non-poly contractor said he uses crushed something or other. (However, the non-poly contractor will also help me with my bent fence posts caused by the reckless tree contractor while removing the tree that caused the my driveway problem in the first place).

@@painterlady7931 Crushed limestone is the same base contractors use for setting paver blocks. In areas with freeze and thaw cycles, (Detroit certainly qualifies), the limestone is susceptible to washout. I can't imagine why your quote for polyurethane foam is 2 to 3 times as high. It's a cheap alternative, and that material costs 1/2 what it costs us to mix our mortar and pump it. Crushed limestone is a very inexpensive material, and I wouldn't expect it to last a very long time if I were you. The contractors that used to pump crushed limestone around here are all out of business, as far as I know. I don't recommend the poly, either, because it crushes easily, and is biodegradable. If that's all you have to work with, then you've got to do what you've got to do.

Every pool is not built the same way, so it depends. Pools with concrete walls will not push in as long as they are in good condition. What really matters is how the deck was poured, what type of coping, and how much angle iron/steel was used in the joint. Easily assessed by an onsite inspection.

You need to speak with your local concrete raising contractor to see the project in person. I do a fair amount of work inside buildings, as long as I have external access. My pump runs off of a gasoline powered motor, which creates dangerous exhaust fumes. It cannot be operated indoors, but I can run a long pumping hose from a nearby doorway or window to get a lot of interior work completed.

Thanks for watching.

I make my concrete raising pumps myself. We don't pump mud. We pump a mortar mix that has portland cement in it. It sets up hard, and lasts a very, very, very long time.

Look for a company that has been in business for a while, and check out their online ratings. Try and find a company that is pumping a mortar mix, like we do, and avoid crushed limestone or polyurethane foam, if you can. Thanks for watching.

Chris Anderson Around here we are anywhere from 10% to 20% of replacement cost. I couldn't know for Cali.

It really depends on the situation. No ironfast rule, but typically 24 hours. We raise some loading docks that have 75,000 lb. trucks driving on them, and for those, it's 72 hours. Normal use is a day or less.

Greg, I get calls for that sort of work all the time. The answer is, it depends on how the footings were poured. If they are wide enough, we can pump under them and straighten out fireplaces, and other brick walls. We do that sort of work from time to time. Some, we just have to pass, as they don't have a good enough footing.

It really depends on the situation, and the contractor doing the work for you. My mudjacking pump is gasoline engine powered, so I don't bring it indoors due to exhaust fumes. I have done a LOT of work inside homes where close access via a sliding door allows us to leave the machine outside, but bring the hose inside for pumping.

Every job is different, and every company is different. This particular job is from 4 years ago, so pricing wouldn't be relevant today. I offer a free estimate if you are in my area. Driveways can cost anywhere from $400 on up to over $1000, depending on how big the driveway is, and how many inches it needs to be raised. Easily assessed on site.

I honestly don't know

There is so much misinformation in your comment that I simply must reply to clear up the misconceptions that poly-foam guys continue to talk about. You don't need a PhD in concrete industrial applications to know that a portland cement based mixture of sand, clay, and portland does NOT bond to a cured concrete slab. Period. It's called a cold joint for a reason, and it's exactly why foundations for homes are poured in one continuous pour, and also why you install control joints in flat work. As a business, I installed new concrete flatwork for 22 years. We specialized in stamped decorative concrete. I've taken out literally hundreds of slabs that I had mudjacked 10 to 15 years previous, as quite a few of my customers wanted to replace their regular concrete slabs with decorative stamped concrete. Most of my customers were previous customers from the mudjacking side of our company. Not once, in any instance, did our portland based concrete raising mix bond to the bottom of any slab. Not once ever. Your statement is simply false. The fact is, polyurethane foam injection is the cheap alternative to raising concrete for long term satisfactory results. I've been in business for 30 years, and have a consistent track record of jobs lasting about 20 years. Just last year, we completed 2053 jobs as a company. This year, I got ONE......yep, just one call back for warranty work. It was actually from 2018, but I took care of the customer anyway. No sense in worrying about 1 single warranty job. I get a chance to talk to concrete raising contractors all over the country who are interested in purchasing a proper pump from me, and many of them have switched from poly-foam back to a cement based material because they are sick and tired of all the warranty work and problems. There are plenty examples of companies injecting foam that have gone completely out of business, with a lot of BBB complaints, because they don't honor their warranty claims. Good luck with your foam business. Sooner or later, you'll come to understand that the most important factor to a proper concrete raising job, well done, is to create compressive resistance to the gravitation forces of heavy concrete slabs. Your beloved polyurethane foam injection has an 11% strength ratio compared to a portland cement based mortar. Our material is not biodegradable either. Best of luck to you. Oh, and by the way, concrete base isn't "bad soil", it's compacted grade 9 gravel. No reputable concrete installation contractor installs soil as a base. It's simply not allowed by code in any city or township or county that I perform raising work in.