I'm approaching 50 years old. I, sadly, used to shoplift from The Source when I was in middle school, at the old Snelling location. No, the Snelling location before that Snelling location, and not the current Snelling location. The one next to Cheapo and Home Video. Yeah, it's a Buffalo Wild Wings now. Anyways, amongst other things, I lifted an entire 40K Harlequin Elves boxed set. I wasn't in gaming for many years after high school. When I returned to gaming, board games, DnD, etc., and having moved very near to The Source, I've made it my go-to for all things Nerdy. Neighbor kid needs Pokemon? The Source. Daughter is into Graphic Novels and they have a deep shelf of them, including lots of Inclusive themes? The Source. I need to buy some fancy Pro Acryl paints and a new brush? The Source. I want to get indirectly coughed on my Ninjon in a coincidental sighting during last-stage Covid Pandemic? The Source. I'm trying to make good on past youthful indiscretions. Support your Friendly Local Game Store.

I agree, water based airbrush primers can be really hit or miss. A couple of years ago I switched to Mr Hobby Sufacer 1500 for most of my air brush priming, with their leveling thinner. It is the best primer I've ever used. None of the issues you get with water based airbrush primers. Goes on smooth every time, doesn't clogg up the needle, and is really tough once its cured. Highly recommend you guys give it a try.

We are all so blessed to have Dan in our city 💖

Adding another recommendation to try Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 thinned 1:1 with Mr Color Leveling Thinner before giving up on airbrushed primer. I don’t have a lot of mini painting experience but Gundam modelers swear by it for being a no fuss primer that dries to the touch almost instantly and holds up to repositioning the posable models without scratching or rubbing off. The same thinner to paint ratio works with any Mr Color paint or Tamiya acrylics for providing an equally quick dry and tough finish through an airbrush too. I’ve never had it gum up my airbrush either, unlike some other primers I’ve tried.

Sound is back on point and to its high quality standard as normal! Well done gentlemen.

Dan rocks! Shout out to Dan and Pat at the Source. Been going there for decades :)

I love the source. Its super nice and full of treasures.

Woooooo! Trapped Under Plastic fix 🎉

Glad I’m not the only one who has airbrush primer peel off in chunks. I’ve tried AP and Monument, both seem garbage in my experience. Can barely touch the model afterwards without getting ruined. Experimented on sprue chunks, let cure for 2 days, and found airbrush primer peels off easier than paint with no primer. Krylon rattle can primer is the way to go. Need sandpaper to take that stuff off.

As a fellow Twin-Citizen, I will say putting the black side of the Game Envy sponge UP helps in my 1924 house's basement. You can fill the 'reservoir' deeply on the white side but the black side only pushes so much liquid up into the paper. White side up led to over-thinning. Black side up has led to army + terrain painting (because I am awful, lazy, and bad)

Airbrush primer, try MOLOTOW ALL4ONE, it sprays on like rattle can primer, it doesn't have any clumping like polyurethane and it dries HARD. I also use all the colors, not just black or gray. I usually prime red, blue and purple directly all the time, and they are all as tough as the black.

As the first top comment I read, just use a lacquer primer lol it is consistent 100 percent of the time if thinned purposely with leveling thinner.

Where I live there are three small stores. I mean small. The newest is an incredibly small Warhammer store. I go to my game stores as much as I can to get whatever I need. It’s definitely tough because they tend to be more expensive. As someone with a family, sometimes it does get hard to shop there. I always want them to succeed.

I just painted The Headsmans Curse #nighthaunt crew.. Love that kitbash Scott

Molotow one4all refill, that is by far the best primer. Not just mecha uses it, and it is rad! No thinning covering is S+!

Rattle can is smooth and consistent cover all over and does better to prevent chipping too, it’s like powder coating a model instead of painting it

Star Wars RPG! I'm a big fan of that game. That was the game where I discovered my love for dice building systems

hell yeah more Dan content

Army Painter matte black is the best primer I have ever used. Which is weird, because I hate army Painter. My roommate had it, and I ran out of black, so I tried it. It covered perfectly, and painting on it was a dream. Still will never buy their brushes, but that's my go to rattle can now

I am not local to The Source, but I do stop in when I'm around the area because its the best store in Minnesota I've found.

I’ve used 2 bottles of Vallejo black airbrush primer without issue as well

This was fun! Thanks for all the neat info.

I've used Vallejo Primer Black 74.602 for years and have primed about 500 models with it, no issues. The bottle I have now is about two and a half years old and still works just as good as day one. I'm curious if it is a brand or quality control issue or something else you guys are experiencing. Vince says he has primed hundreds of minis with an airbrush. Would love to see a more in depth video on this.

John and Scott in the episode with Jason when he said he doesn't use wet pallets because you can't control how much the paint is being diluted: "Jason is wrong don't listen to him!" In this episode: "If you don't have the perfect sponge your wet pallet makes your paint too diluted" Jason at home watching this: "See! See! I *told* you so!"

Great episode! Loved listening to Dan talk about the industry! :D

This episode had a lot of great insight in the weird duality of passion/work. I worked very briefly at a game store and the first day i met the owner he insulted and was rude to me 3 different times and strictly gave me the impression that he is just running a business and does not care how he treats his employees

Its so cool that dan has this podcast. Who are these other two yahoos? Also shoutout to rhe Thursday warcry group! Man, I'd live to get in to the MESBG group, but Tuesdays just havent been good for me ever 😢 In any case, we stan Dan 🤘

Scott, I used an Android app called Star Words to create the SW scroll text, I used that for every session to give a summary of what the players had done and what they were doing next. I also used it for the intro to the adventure modules that they were doing. It makes for a fun way to get the group into the Star Wars mood.

I would like to test the assumption that priming is even required. My next model I'm going to wash in soapy water with a brush, base coat it with normal paint (probably air paint through an airbrush), and paint. I bet the paint will adhere as per usual.

I tend to use airbrush primers when I can, but there was one variety that just gave me so much trouble that I ended entirely hand-painting pieces with it- That was Stynylrez black. Everything I put it through, even when it was strongly thinned, would clog up in less than a minute. It would just turn into pure road tar that would require a full breakdown and parts cleaning. Even my Badger 105 Patriot, which is my workhorse for everything from base coats to lacquer, would end up coughing, spattering and sputtering before becoming effectively unusable. Now interestingly, Stynylrez GREY is one of my regular airbrush primers, and that variety gives me no real trouble. Same goes for Vallejo primers. Go figure. The only benefit from the black primer was that it gave me lots of practice in disassembling and cleaning my airbrush, to the point that it is now a perfectly comfortable and familiar process..

Im so excited of Jon's skaven videos!

Dude talking to my FLGS about it and GW reps can be ruthless. There's also a bunch of rules you have to follow or they'll pull out all their stock from your store. Like there are a couple combat patrol boxes at my store that have been sitting there since 9th started but they have to continually restock and keep models on that shelf in order to keep the citadel paint rack which actually makes more money than any warhammer models for the store.

Great topic

The solid piece of armour that goes in front on top of the breastplate to protect the neck is called a gorget. A coif is a hood that extends to protect the upper torso and shoulders and is usually made of mail. #TheMoreYouKnow

100% agree on the air brush primer. I could see uses for it if you don't have a decent spot to rattle can but ol reliable chaos black has never done me wrong. Consistent layer, great coverage, doesn't rub off. I air brush pretty frequently but the hassle of getting it going for primer vs just walking outside and spraying is another annoyance!

Im not local to the source, but I do visit once every couple of years and always stop in to buy way too much.

I have never had issues with polyurethane primers in the airbrush. Maybe I am jusy lucky because a friend of mine had a problem, but it seems the bottle are equal. There are some water based alternatives though for those who don't like it.

Another recommend for mr hobby primer. Comes in different grits and sprays great

I just recently had my HP-CS go on the fritz(prob because of primer) and had to get some replacement parts for it so I sucked it up and bought some Chaos Black, I couldve done krylon or something but I had wanted to try GW's black primer spray and I was pretty happy overall. Very smooth finish and dries and cures great! This discussion has me really thinking about eschewing airbrush priming altogether

I use Vallejo primer so far been good

I know it's a British brand but I highly recommend color forge as a primer. And is usually cheaper than army painter or games workshop. Don't know if you can get it over there. (Oh wait you just mentioned it in your podcast! I spoke too soon! Haha)

Maybe I've only been on the lucky side so far but I have exclusively primed via airbrush with Pro Acryl primer for a while and I haven't had a single issue. Not to say it can't happen eventually but I'm good so far. I feel like it cures fully much quicker than a rattle can.

Been using proacryl black primer through the airbrush. Will still rattle can for army painting though.

Getting primer is the worst. We are in Alaska and rattle cans are treated like we’re trying to stock weapons of mass destruction. We have to use a freight forwarder and pay additional hazmat charges. And if an order of like… 18 cans are broken into separate boxes, we get hit with the hazmat charge multiple times. =(

Gotta agree with Jon on the airbrush primer thing... I had a bottle of army painter black primer that did wonders for the longest time. Then it ran out so I tried AK primer...terrible, super thick, clumped, etc...thought it was a defect, someone said they've never had that issue so I got another bottle, same thing... Picked up Stynlrez which I used to use all the time a while back, it spider webbed like crazy, or clumps. Went back to army painter, good for a while, then it started to clump. Brought it up with some locals, others have had problems too. I have a bottle of AP now that is working well, but it has been a pain. Also I've had more problems with whites and greys than with black as well. Definitely feels like there's a lot of reliability issues in the airbrush priming world. Rattlecans are calling me these days, but if anyone has a super reliable airbrush primer suggestion, I'm all ears!

Vallejo Mecha Primer comes without polyurethane. I'm quite happy with it.

Colour forge is great! Very matt.

I use ak primer through my iwata airbrush and have had no issues, yet to try a rattle can primer.

I had a problem with Vallejo primer. I switched to Pro Acryl primer and much better results :)

Love the FFG Star Wars RPG and I loved the shot at GSW lol

Regarding Primer : have you tried making your own by mixing acrylic ink and matte varnish? - I make mine with Liquitex inks , Matte Varnish and a few drops of Flow Aide. Pretty tuff stuff no flaking.

New book out now! "The Ducking Truth" by Ninjon

I ordered the ninjon and Vince V proacryl sets early on and they came in unlabeled white card stock boxes. At the time I was confused.

If I use rattle an I can only prime seasonally because I live up north and can only do it outside. Airbrush is just less messy and doesn’t spray all over the place

I'm a brush-on primer peasant. It looks like $hit and can get this awful bubbly texture if you whisk it too much but I get no problems with either painting over it nor does it hurt my airbrush. ;D

The only problem I have with aribrush primer is the durability is WAY lower than rattle can. It rubs off really easily and requires much more care in handling the models while painting them.

I'm so so so glad you are talking about Colour Forge - I found them online a couple of years ago and emailed them about getting some in the US, wonderful guys. I am super excited for them to get US distribution.

You guys should play Middle Earth I honestly think its GW's best game!

13:36 I don't know what's going on. Since switching the airbrush primer I'm had nothing but success *except* for Vallejo which is un-necessarily difficult to apply and wants to peal. I'm talking over 10 years of airbrush priming.

Drying retarder is a game changer for airbrushing

Dan absolutely needs to be a more regular feature 👌🏼 great dynamic between the three of you!

Filter your primers. I sent scott a link to those little in cup filters a while back.

Molotow!!!! Use this primer. Talk to Marco at Adepticon for his thoughts ;)

I think I’m literally from the same town as that guy if he was talking about fondulac wi

It boggles my mind that stock checking is a physical thing still. Second hand comics I understand would be harder, but new products with barcodes and whatnot should be pretty straight forward?

Mia Sarah. Her name is Mia Sarah. The obsession of many teenage boys during the 80's. I was one of those teenage boys.

!Dan

I use a £15 airbrush for the Vallejo primer 0.3

One thing I will say is Wizards of the Coast is apparently one of the worst people to work with if you own a game shop. Like the horror stories I've heard from so many store owners is depressing, awful company that treats stores like shit.

I have had far more primer problems with spray primers, especially. Army painter, than airbrush. I do occasionally use a filter to strain certain colors of primer, but these days vallejo does very well for my through airbrush, and I would not go back to rattle can. Wonder how much of this is climate dependent

🎉🎉🎉

legend..... My Favourite non DnD film... i know the quote!😂

God I wish Color Forge distributed in the US. Stuff looks awesome.

3rd, only perk to being up at 5 lmao

Stynylrez is a superlative plastic mini primer. It is buttery smooth and can be brushed or airbrushed on. It's also available in many colors.

Trapped Under Plastic: The podcast where ducks.

Colour forge: nice colours but TERRIBLE to spray. THICK is the word and inconsistent. Be careful with those 😅

Like and comment for pocket rocks

Second

"Airbrush Priming is bullshit". Hahahaha absolute skill issue. Way to say you just dont know how to work with it.

I'm still astounded how these guys don't know about some of the most basic hobbying items in the hobby. The gunpla community and mini community need to start talking more. Many many times I see one or the other missing key knowledge just because it's not a primary concern in one side of the hobby or the other until it is.

Asmode is the worst, GW is the model of perfection by comparison. FYI Atomic mass is Asmode.

Nice content but Scott's voice is so shrill & abrasive sometimes, makes it hard to keep listening.

your talk about necromunda just makes me realize if you guys show up to NOVA open I'm just going to dunk on Jon for playing the meta because actual skill is playing something that's shit and still winning

Have you tried molotov one4all? It's super sturdy graffiti paint

Chaos black never fails. Pro Acryl primer is the easiest to apply but as any airbrush primer they come off very easy.