"This thing never measures the same when I pull it out" - I feel you bro. :O(

"What's wrong with my Honda S2000" Well simple, No turbo.

one of the best engines on this planet. even though i'm not into hondas actually.

If you're into Instagrammies follow along here! instagram.com/engineeringexplained/ Because I'm too lazy to Snapchat.

If there's any leaks, hit me up. I'll clean them right up.

Don't you have to wipe the dipstick, put it in back in and then take it out again to measure the right oil level?

You can tell you're an engineer and not a mechanic haha.

were you aware the car is yellow?

Main problem with it is that it's not a Hyundai Accent

Rust!? Seems like this car was recommended to you by Alex! LOL

I mostly lurk but I gotta say that I would like to see videos of you doing those DIY projects. I like the way you explain things in your videos and would like your insight on those repairs

A little S2000 tip, which you may already know, you can remove the bonnet support strut with a little wiggle from its usual attachment point and put it in the hole next to the fusebox, I think behind your left fingers at 3:30. I'm not exactly sure on the position of the hole, but I know it's possible as it was mentioned on an episode of Wheeler Dealers when they restored an S2000. This keeps the bonnet at more of an upright angle for working in the engine bay, so you won't have to use a broom handle.

You can move the hood prop to the left side of the engine to prop the roof up almost 90 degree. It comes off and reinsert to a hole on the left side.

What's wrong with it? Simple, it doesn't have bumper to bumper warranty.

Classic 'book smart' engineer. Can explain all of the physics, statics, and thermodynamics about an engine; but can't check the oil correctly, ordered special washers and o-rings when they're 5 cents at the local hardware store, and didn't even look over the car himself before he bought it.

Congrats and welcome to the club! I don't know if my cold air intake improves performance at all, but it sure opens up the area around the engine. I do my oil changes without ever getting under the car at all. MTF and diff fluid require at least a little jacking, weird-sized sockets (with a breaker bar, probably), and the right washers (I recommend HandA), but otherwise aren't hard. Hooray for spreading the drivetrain along the length of the car! It's so much easier than a FWD. The power outlet nut is a pain-you can do it without removing the glovebox panel, but wear long sleeves to keep from scratching the heck out of your arms. And YES to the Loctite. I bought mine with a replaced top and now it has two holes. Don't make my mistakes! Check the springs and straps, and sand and/or pad the ends of those pesky arms, now! Don't drive with the top down much until you're sure it's squared away. That's when the rubbing happens. I used tutorials from S2ki for all of those. It sounds like you've been there, but I can dig up links if you want the specific posts. I'd love to see some maintenance and project (and hooning) videos. See you on S2ki and /r/S2000!

Keep your stock air box in. It makes more power than ANY aftermarket intake on the S2000.

It's yellow

Hey man, do as many videos about your S2K as you can. Every minor thing you mentioned is worth it. There is multiple videos about tuning parts but not so many about random small stuff like the loose 12V plug or the o-ring swap. Can't wait to see more. Keep up great work.

pro tip you can remove the hood stand from the front right corner and place it in a hole on the passenger side right behind the shock tower to hold the hood open at almost a 90 degree angle for more better access under the hood 👍

You need to throw out that factory cold air induction system and install a Boi-racer-as-seen-in-a-magazine-style open element that sit exposed under the hood and sucks in tons of super hot under-hood air like all the other magazine fan-bois do... because they saw someone else do it - so it must be better!

You want to get the timing tensioner and chain sorted out ASAP, I had rattling timing tensioner and did not look into it soon enough and one morning idling it suddenly spun over freely as it died. Bent every valve in the head broke a couple valves off and poked holes in tops of pistons

Protip: When popping the hood, there is a smaller hole that is closer to the hood hinge for the hood prop to slide into. It makes it so the hood has an open angle of almost 90 degrees, and I've never encountered a time where I thought it would go backwards. Makes engine work so easy.

A few things. I'll be abbreviated since I'm on the phone. I'm impressed with the condition relative to its age. 1. I have an unorthodox way of fixing the timing chain tensioner (TCT). $0 cost and it's most effective (did the fix Jan 2015). If you shoulder the cost of replacing the TCT with an OEM, By design, the problem will eventually resurface. The sand blasting also doesn't permanently fix the issue. You can also go for Billmans TCTx or Ballad Racing's TCT. 2. Your convertible top is not going all the way down. This is due to the elastic straps on each side, wearing, not being tight enough. In the worst case, it might lead to a tear because the top isn't folding properly. It needs to sit lower. I can elaborate on my free TCT fix if you're interested. I'll explain the science behind it and show how it worked for me. Feel free to message me on here. I have a yellow one as well :-).

After fixing all that needs fixing. Do you have plans in changing the final drive ratio? Or explain the engineering of the final drive? Ive watched your transmission video though.

Thankfully, it's a Honda and not some German car. A simple task made more complicated.

"Honda cam chain tensioner" Words to strike terror into any mechanic's heart since, oh the 1960s.

woah woah woah, you just bought my absolute favorite car of all time, and you've ordered the car I currently own. subscribed.

lol i've seen SOOO many of your videos - and I JUST realised I wasn't subscribed yet. Well, i am now... not that it'll make any difference as I've always watched your vids hahaha

love the s2000! you should paint it with another color :)

Glad you bought a real sports car dude. A WRX is not a real sports car, its a sporty sedan. I used to see a yellow S2000 just like yours in the showroom at the Roseville CA Honda dealer every time I took my 2001 Civic in for routine maintenance. I really wanted that S2000, but the dealer was asking $38,000 which I thought was a little steep, and then a few years later Honda stopped making them anyway. Fast forward to 2013 when I bought a FR-S which is also a real sports car. It's not for everybody, but I like it and after 3 years and 26,000 miles zero maintenance issues. Put on some Michelin Pilot Sports and the handling is scary, it just sticks in wet or dry conditions. Don't know about snow, it doesn't snow where I live. Anyway, good luck with your S2000!

VTEC stores a LOT of oil in the top of the engine. You need to wait a good 15 to 30 minutes to get an accurate reading on the dipstick. Best to check it when it's been sitting overnight, actually. SO many oil passages up top, they can store a LOT of oil until they have a chance to drain down into the sump.

4K is pretty sweet!

Well that didn't take long lol

for replacing the differential fluid, you can use the squirt pump from a soap dispenser with a length of flexible hose on the dispensing end and put the sucking end into your bottle of gear oil for easy filling and minimal mess. if your diff doesn't have an empty bolt, you can also use that tubing to attack to the sucker end, and pull the fluid out that way. couple of easy and cheep ways to limit the mess of that smelly gear oil lol.

Probably not a lot of immediate benefit in this, but I would purge the brake fluid. Something quick you could do, adjust your throttle cable so there is no slack at the pedal.

Kinda surprised it hasn't been mentioned, but you need to make sure you check your valve retainers. AP1s have weak retainers on the intake side that can crack and drop a valve into the cylinder with a misshift. Simply replacing with AP2 retainers will almost guarantee you won't have to put an engine in it.

You should also top off the blinker fluid.

Oil consumption on AP1s is a function of the type of oil you use, the PCV valve and the valve cover design. My 2003 used no more than 1/4 quart every 3,000 miles, which is low for an AP1. I replaced the PCV valve with an OEM one every 15,000-30,000 miles and ran Amsoil full synthetic 10W30 (ATM). Only use the OEM "PCX" filter - it's specifically designed for the S2000. I also used Amsoil full synthetic fluids in the diff (Severe Gear 75W110) and transmission (MTF). To keep your top and interior looking perfect - use 303 Aerospace protectant. My 2003 had over 110,000 miles and the original top looked new (it still looks new, but the car is wrecked - taking parts off of it for my 2002). The interior also looked nearly new. You can't beat 303 for plastic, vinyl (the OEM top is vinyl impregnated cloth - not cloth, so you treat it like vinyl), leather and rubber. Additionally considerations are the early 2002 (and earlier) S2000s used a 2 hole oiling banjo bolt for piston cooling. This was changed to a 4 hole banjo bolt in mid to late 2002, and carried in all other S2000s. If you plan on auto-crossing the car - you should seriously consider the mod. If your car needs the have the oil pan seal redone - there is no better time to have these bolts replaced (the pan needs to come off to do the mod). Another consideration if you plan to drive the car hard is to have the intake retainers replaced with AP2 retainers. The "money shift" for the S2000 (redline 3-4 ending up in 2nd) many times will not immediately kill the engine but simply crack the intake retainers. At that point - the engine is a time bomb as one or more of the intake valves will slowly slip out of the keepers and retainers until it drops and destroys the engine. Valve lash clearance checks/adjustments are also critical, and require the engine to be completely bone cold for them to be done properly. There are small signs the intake retainers are cracked that takes a trained eye to identify - and during a valve adjustment is the best time to check for the signs of cracks (you can only see the actual cracks once the retainer is removed - but the retainers will have a slightly 'dished' appearance as the valves start to migrate downward). Once AP2 retainers are installed - you will bend exhaust valves before cracking an intake retainer during a mechanical over-rev.

My 2000 ap1 preferred castrol to Mobil one. It could burn a quart per 1000 miles of you were always doing high spirited drives. The TCT takes less than 15 minutes and is no big deal. Makes a noticeable difference in off idle too. My car was driven hard but not abused for 75,000 miles around Beaverton, Oregon and is now happily still running with its new owner. Rear wheel bearings and starter are the only repairs it needed on my watch. If you're going to daily drive in the winter I highly suggest the factory hard top. Worth every penny. Congratulations and enjoy.

Keep that stock airbox just get a snorkel

Spoiler... These tiny things are the only things wrong with it at 105k miles!? Wow! :)

Had mine 20 years this September, daily driver now 145k miles. Check oil weekly.

Memories. I had a yellow '02 AP1 just like this one and loved it. I had the same problem with that cigarette lighter as well. Have fun fixing that!

Will you do a dyno run for a baseline? Might as well know where it's at. Beautiful car. Good find.

I would like to see you do a DIY video on doing a mohawk.

Yes!! You are correct about the O ring... Just did mine. Back it out enough to see the ring and just replace it!

I wouldn't worry about the oil consumption. My old 2002 RSX Type S used to eat a quart of oil every 1000 miles. It did it from the day I bought it off the showroom floor with 12 miles on the odometer to the day I traded it in with 281,651 miles it. I know the K20A2 in the RSX-s isn't the same as the F20C used in your S2000, but it wouldn't surprise me one bit if that engine had the same consumption issue the K20A2 did. I don't know how true this is but the general consensus at the time when I bought it was that it was something to do with the high compression the engine had. Given the age of that S2000 you may want to check or just outright replace the alternator on it. My RSX-s's alternator died due to an open diode in the internal voltage regulator. Took out both electric cooling fans in the process (and cooked the battery too).

1:16 i would get a new serp belt and throw it in the "trunk". that one looks ready to pop

I would love to see some diy vids on this car, planning to get my own s2000 soon!

You need to nudge the roof arm back as it's folding down, to prevent ripping the retention elastic and and top fabric. As it sits in the video, it's protruding up, putting a lot of tension on the elastic band.

I believe the part that has the oil leak is the maintenance cover for the timing chain (meant to be removed so that the timing chain can be removed), the the idlergear bolt, which if removed would result in some parts possibly dropping down into the engine bay unless you have the valve cover off which is super easy to remove. My buddy just bought a 2001 and it had a bad tct (and the exhaust cam was actually slightly mis timed), which I've been fixing for him. I fixed this a few months ago so my memory isn't that fresh, but I think I'm right.

You should wipe the dip stick and measure the oil level again 😊

you should have bought F350 or F450

I would definitely be interested in seeing some diy vids from you man! might be considere to be "boring" vids but i genuinely enjoy getting your insight on things.

I notice the original battery terminals were replaced with the generic bolt on replacement type. Check for stray voltage/electrolysis in the coolant. This condition very often comes from those bolt on replacement battery cable connectors being just slightly loose or corroded where the cable enters the connector. Sometimes a grounding/bonding strap is cut away but, not replaced when this type of connector is being installed. Once installed, this kind of connector requires regular check ups. The damage this tiny detail can cause can be very expensive as it corrodes ALL items that touch the coolant. This little known/understood issue would make a great video for you. The test for this condition is to use your multimeter and test for voltage between the negative battery terminal and the coolant itself while you have as many electrical items turned on as possible. The reading should be 0.0X volts. Good luck. That is a fun ride. I was once lucky enough to take a nice hard drive in one for free.

You should do DIY videos. Chrisfix does really good tutorials as well. would be cool to see your perspective

Repair videos, do it. Talk about the engineering of the parts, fluids and such.

Hi. Owned an 00 and an 07. Please also check your pcv valve, iat valve, and clutch master cylinder. A lot of times the clutch master cylinder will leak into the interior side of the firewall. Sometimes the screen in the VTEC solenoid gets dirty and clogged but not as common as the other issues.

- Check the valve retainers for cracks. - Consider GM Friction modified trans fluid for the gearbox. I use it in mine. - Don't forget to change the cabin air filter. It is often overlooked. - FYI - You can replace the fill bolt on the diff with a diff drain bolt. That way you have two magnets catching any particles/filings.

Road trip to Eric The Car Guy .

I would like to see DIY vids from you.

I'm a new subscriber and just wanted to let you know my s2000 timing chain tensioner was also rattling and since I wanted to go low cost on fixing it I sanded down the worm gear. SO easy and very very simple. did that 2 years ago and still no rattle!

That "Leak" you mentioned is the Idle pulley Bolt, it's not that simple, you need to be really careful as it can throw your cam shafts completely out of time if that bolt is pulled out too far. I wouldn't recommend changing it without taking the rocker cover off. Any questions message me 👍

how about you combine hosts for your DIY fixes? like Eric the Car Guy or ChrisFix just to name a few~

"This thing never seems to measure the same whenever I pull it out" That's what I try to tell a girl but it never works :(

I haven't scrolled down to check, but I don't believe your top is going down all the way. Another thing though I may add. If you plan on tracking the car, replace the valve retainer on the intake side with ap2 ones. Also, while your are redoing the oil pan seal. Order the ap2 oil squirters or banjo bolts the spray on the piston/ wrist pin. Ap1s don't seem to do the job. Also lol.. I could go on and on. Re torque the rear axle nuts to 220lbs. I may be mistaken on that value. Hope this helps. I have a 99 well 06/1999 first year production #142. I've done all these things and then some.. I track the car and drive it respectfully hard with no issues.

I've been watching your videos and learning since the beginning of EE, and I couldn't be happier, more proud and thankful about your work and progress! You set the bar real high and you are only pushing it further. Hats off bro! My only aim in life now is to respect what I am learning as a mechanical engineer and put it good use while enjoying it just like you... :)

Yea please do repair videos.

Id also change the coolant and the spark plugs

Like I mentioned in the other video, use the GM Synchromesh FM fluid for the trans. It is much smoother and lasts longer than the Honda MTF. Also, you mentioned that it calls for a straight 90w in the diff...and it does...but, if you are using it primarily for fun/track/autox then give it something thicker. As for reattaching your 12v supply, you just have several plastic pieces to pop off to get there. I think you might be able to do it by just popping off the piece behind either seat (they are attached by two screws under the little hooks) and reaching in there...maybe, with a mirror...otherwise you might have to pull the glove compartment off. To do that those plastic pieces come off, so does the center console which pops up pretty easy, and there are a couple screws you have to get at from the back behind the spare tire. Also, if you are replacing the oil pan gasket anyway, you should update your piston oil squirters to the newer version. You might already have the updated ones, I forget what year your S is, but if its 00-01 it definitely doesn't have them unless the previous owner did it. Also consider welding in a baffle. Its not much of an issue until you start getting sticky tires, but sustained hard cornering G's does pull the oil away from the pick up. FFT

You can use high torque gray silicone for the pan. Get it at any parts house. Works like a champ.

The main problem I see is that the car is yellow... Anyway, great car

go onto s2ki and contact billman for his upgraded tct. its guaranteed for life

All of those issues(which they really aren't) are common Honda issues. Congratulations, your S2000 is in amazing shape.

Just a heads up the previous owner mentioned he replaced the top right? Well I couldn't help but notice how when you put the top down it didn't go all the way down. So I would question how recent the previous owners replaced the top or if he only replaced just the material of the top. A brand new top wouldn't go down like that

I'm lame, but I wanna see the crosstrek!

its not a volvo

Yes, please show in detail the repairs and fluid changes you are about to make.

I would look at doing valve lash adjustment as well will you're working on it. A fellow student at the tech school I attended adjusted his on his S2000 and noticed minor improvement to performance especially at higher RPMs. I would be interested in watching videos seeing the work you complete on it as well. I have always been intrigued by these cars especially after going for a ride in the fellow student's yellow one. He did install carbon fiber front fenders, hood, and front bumper. I don't recommend that, but was a nice car for sure.

look wheeler dealers. in an episode repairs a s2k

Probably coil-overs would be my first mod. Either way great car, just needs a supercharger.

I would like to see the S2000 as an ongoing project on your channel. Please do show us some interesting repairs on it and after that, maybe a video every couple months, like a long term test with fixes.

You sir have my subscribe.. So glad you have an S2000. I am so looking forward to watching your DIY videos and learning more about the S2000!

It's a Honda

buy Billman's genx tct! I'm sure you've heard of him on the forums. It's $250 lifetime guarantee, just contact him on s2ki. Luckily his shop is right there from me

the sealant used in place of oil pans is an extremely common practice. I don't know why that is but I think it expands better under heat stress and expansion over years rather than a rubber gasket.

replace with TCT with Ballade sports TCT, I'd do amsoil mtf & gear fluid for the rear diff, if there isn't any oil leaking from the pan I wouldn't worry about the seal, there are 28 bolts I believe (I've replaced mine don't remember the exact number) that hold it on at like 7ft lbs and it is just a hassle to deal with so not worth it if it's not leaking. For the plug in the console, that whole center console assembly (where the roof button and arm rest is) snaps on/off, then you'll have to do undo the panels behind the seats to get access to the plug from behind and it's just like you said, you need to thread it back in. A common issue on the ap1 is burning oil, especially Mobil 1. I had this issue with my ap2 burning Mobil 1. I switched over to castrol full synthetic and the car runs much smoother and doesn't burn oil like it did with the Mobil 1. Amsoil is also another good alternative if you don't mind forking out the penny for it. Good luck, looking forward to more videos on it!

Keep the stock air box. Aftermarket intakes sound like garbage!

Mighty Car Mods did a test with the same model S2000 on a dyno with several different filters and found the stock airbox is actually quite exceptional.

When I bought my 1997 Jeep Wrangler, I made sure no suspension parts were falling off, and that the holes in the floor were smaller than my foot. They were because they had been stuffed with glass fiber. I still drove it 2 years without losing any part (or without noticing I lost any), and now it has a new owner and is still alive... those things are tough!

When checking oil levels, it is good practice to wipe the dipstick clean with a rag the first time you pull it out, then reinsert and look. I believe this is because the oil can potentially splash up onto the dipstick while driving, and is viscous enough to stay on it, making it appear higher than it is.

I worked at Subaru building cars. The trim stuff is designed to go together at the factory quickly, easily, and stay put. If we had a defect to work on, only our familiarity with building the things allowed us to take things apart easily. So I would say get a real factory service manual and go slow. NEVER force any trim piece unless there is simply no other way, then try to bow it or squeeze in a way that releases hidden plastic tabs. Plastic body repair tools are awesome. Don't lose any fasteners or push pins. Have JB weld handy. I think you can handle the mechanical stuff!

A repair series of videos explaining the function of the parts being repaired/replaced and a failure analysis would be good. Though I wouldn't expect any less from you.

The AP1 block was not bored using a torque plate (unlike the AP2 block) and this supposedly causes extra oil burning in AP1s. Mobil 1 oil seems to burn pretty bad for most owners. I recommend 10w-40 motul, valvoline, redline or pennzoil

I would check valve clearance. We do them at the honda dealer for sure at 100k miles. spark plugs as well? i think its a good idea expecially taking her to 9k+

Like a few before said, check the condition of the intake side valve spring retainers before beating on it hard, if the valve stems are not all at the same height WRT the top of the retainers then some retainers may be cracked and sitting high. If the car has not had big over revs from wrong gear selection on down shifts then they may well be fine. Also worth a check is the tension on the rear hub main retaining nuts, as the tension can get low enough over time to get movement in the bearing seats in the hubs, slowly wrecking them. Big socket and extension bar required to retension them. Lastly, try a quick test drive with the air filter box cover temporarily removed, the sound as VTEC engages is just fantastic :)

The oil level on this car is very important. It's also very difficult to read due to a windage tray that the dipstick rubs on on it way out. you need to pull it out, wipe it off, re-insert it, and then when taking it out again read both sides of the dipstick. it needs to be at the top of the LXXXXXH on the dipstick right below the "H". Also these cars rev up tp 9200 rpms and are interference engines so be sure to fix the timing chain tensioners as well as check your valve retainers for cracks because ap1 valves can fall into the cylinders destroying your engine. they can be upgraded to rsx or newer s2000 valve retainers check the month your car was made, if it was early in the year it may have a oil banjo bolt that needs to be upgraded to the newer one which has 4 instead of 2 holes so you don't score your #4 cylinder wall.

If you don't have one already get a good fluid evacuator/dispenser pump. Clearances for the transmission & rear differential fluids are pretty snug and it will make the job way easier.

If you do the o-ring use a silicone based lubricant or the bolt will destroy the rubber mating surfaces increasing the leaking, but I use a little blue RTV silicone on a small paint brush to put a lite coating on the contact areas between bolt and cover instead, it's slanted slightly on some and the o-ring pushes out and rips. the 12v power inverter I use a friction washer with teeth-like cutouts to 1st secure from behind and then use a epoxy for plastic applied over the washer mating surfaces to keep it there. Some shops use a hose clamp, but I believe it's too bulky for tight areas, hard to secure compared to a deep well socket to push on a washer, and looks terrible on the only beauty Honda has not to mention the wide band clamp's potential to short out wires that rub against it and covering being filed by the gear run.