Non ethanol fuel is now available in my area and I will not run ethanol in yard machines or recreational motor, motorcycles, boats etc. You have influenced me in the area of running my mixture richer than 50:1 or even 40:1, can't hurt, also I will from now on buy better oil, such as a JASO FD from now on. Thanks for the video.

Klotz with techniplate has a very nostalgic smell, takes me back to growing up racing bikes and karts. Im 50 pkus now and still run it in everything 2 stroke, love that Klotz smell

Thank you for making this kind of content. As a home owner that burns a fair amount of fire wood(I harvest, buck and split by hand about 7cord a year) the can gas is a guarantee that my gear will work when I need it. I recently had my 460 rebuilt and “working saw” ported. I also do some mild milling with it here and there. I’ve been running 50 to 1. But after watching some custom saw builder’s channels, similar to what you say, most of them say to run 40 to 1. I’m a self employed carpenter, I like to get the best tools I can afford at the given moment, I also like to take care of them, so they are ready to work when I need them. I see it like this, your going to spend the money and time regardless, either you spend the money and time getting the premium can gas or oil and pump gas, or you spend the money and time waiting getting your equipment fixed. There are no guarantees, but to me, when it comes time to get saw rebuilt or replacing a piece of equipment that started every damn time I needed it without fail for over 10 years, I part with the cash without regrets.

I like to mix up a gallon of Klotz BeNOL for the saws and OPE in the summer. Love that smell, reminds me of all the fun riding dirt bikes when i was young.

I've watched all of your two stroke oil videos. There is consistency and continuity that runs through the entire series. They are well done and informative. But here's what I like best: Just as a competent lawyer in a court room, you present your argument without passion or prejudice. That is to say, you present facts. Like it or not, facts always trump beliefs, feelings, and suppositions. Now, I wouldn't present your argument to a jury. Why? Because your argument would leave the jury undecided in their verdict, which is exactly what, I believe, you intended. Your saw, your choice. I've been running Stihl saws for personal use since 1984. I've used Stihl Ultra oil for as long as I can remember. I've never had a problem. I have no idea what it looked like inside the engine because I've never had a reason to look. Plus, I recently sold my 024 that I bought new in 1984. That would have provided a true long term test of Ultra. The replacements, both Stihl, have very little time on them. Machines are like people in one way: They can both be dying on the inside and never show it on the outside until it's too late. I'm done with Ultra. My new choice will be an FD oil, probably Husqvarna XP+ or Amsoil Saber. Excellent job, Richard. A person in a white lab coat could not have done better!

I used to run hp ultra, not anymore I've switched to hp super its fd rated and a better oil all round plus it has a stabilizer.. screw the epa I'm doing what's best for my saw, a 500i I'm going to look after it I've paid enough and I'm not going to compromise it with crap pond water oil.. love your videos and honesty..

I've read and studied oil for years as a strange and weird hobby. Have like 10,000 post on the BITOG oil website. As a small engine mechanic, I have experience with 2 stroke power equipment used by lawn guys (not dirt bikes, and not high RPM race chainsaws) so my comments are based on the "average" home owner or average lawn guy. 50:1 using the latest JASO FD oil is all any homeowner or lawn guy will ever need. In my opinion and experience based on what I have seen, too much oil (running 32:1 or 40:1 in equipment that calls for 50:1) serves no purposes and has no positives. Extra oil causes extra carbon buildup and carbon buildup is what breaks off and scores cylinders and increases wear on your equipment. Your welcome to agree or disagree based on your real world experiences, but I truly honestly think that a fleet of 40:1 equipment will not last as long as a fleet of 50:1 equipment (blowers and weed whips). That's my opinion at least....

I’ve ran the same schaeffers oil at 40:1 for about 3 quarts now in many ported saws and 32:1 in my 880 that is only used for milling and have only had good results very clean and shinny inside when I pull the mufflers. Great info Rich 👏

I own Stihl 2-cycle OPE; I use Stihl oil in the orange containers, NEVER had an issue. If I did Stihl would be on the hook if it was the oil, not the gas added, I also add Stabil to the mix, because the local 89 octane gas does contain alcohol.

I enjoyed your video and all the discussions in comments that you took part in. I've been using Stihl HP orange bottle for years in a Stihl trimmer and Husky 55 saw both bought new. So far, no problems, but I'm resolved to switch to Echo Red Armor. Heard about you in Mr. Obsolete's video. I just subbed.

I have been using Opti-2 two cycle for many years (20+ years) in my chainsaws Stihl and Weed Wackers. This stuff has never failed me. I use my saw when a tree falls or if big branches fall to clean things up around the yard (not much use). The weed wacker is always used. I just purchased an outside wood boiler so I will be using my saws a lot more now. I just bought a new MS462 non-M-tronic and I have an MS260 and An MS170. I am very mechanically inclined, and I will take the mufflers off the saws and take pictures and send them to you if you would like. I have never looked inside the motor so this will be interesting for me to see as well. Because I will be running my saws a lot more now, I want to make sure they stay together. Thanks for what you do Richard. Russell

Stihl hp super ( made in Germany)long term user in Ireland here, running 7 saws and varuous other strimmers with zero problems. Ethanol fuel is all we have now and i run fuel stabilizer in every fill and still no issues

Great Video on 2 stoke engine oils! I'm Another Schaeffer's fan here. They are the oldest company in St louis. They started out making grease for wagons heading west. They mix and engineer their oils right here in St Louis. I have run it since the 90s on diesel 3/4 and 1 ton trucks hauling my own freight. I have seen the lack of engine wear at engine teardown, Look up the 1 million mile Ford V8 gasoline engine they tore down on U tube that ran Schaeffer's its entire life. It had almost zero engine wear. Under Obamas $4.00 gas I got my first non V-8, Japanese 4cyl FWD car and run Schaeffer's in its engine and Schaeffer's Trans fluid in its Japanese Transmission. I am still driving it today. I sold power tools and gasoline concrete cutting saws at my tool store and Makita's concrete demolition saws would regularly not run with Still oil 20 yrs ago and it was discovered to be the Stihl orange bottle oil. Opti-2 Oil, a synthetic 2 stoke oil, that had better specs, cured that problem. I imagine that was back near the start of these FC, FD, 2 stroke engine oils. Always run Synthetic oils in all equipment that you want to have any life expectancy. Checking the equipment Manufacturers specs is key.

Thx Richard, it's true! You learn something new everyday. I bought my Stihl Ultra because the dealer gave me an extra 2 years on the warranty.

Thanks! Very interesting. 50 years ago when I bought my first McCulloch 10 10 we used SAE 30 weight as a two-stroke mix. Indeed, I still have a full can of Homelite SAE 30 that came with my XL 12 in 1964! That saw was had 32/1 mix spec'd for it. I hadn't been known about the current JASO standards for 2-stroke engines although (I've always used JASO oils on 'wet clutch' motorcycles). Finally, even in my newer equipment that is spec'd to run 50/1 I continue to run 40/1. I may have to change plugs more often but I prefer to have the higher lubricity. I think that I'll try some 'FC' or 'FD' rated oil the next time that I pick some up. Again, thanks for the information!

Thanks for making these videos. Most of us only take apart our own saws and other 2 stroke engines when they need a new top end. We generally only run one type of oil and have nothing to compare it to. I honestly believed Stihl Ultra must be great oil as they doubled my warranty if I bought some. Fortunately I watched your videos before I destroyed my new saw with that oil! You have great information as you see this stuff everyday! Thanks again for the information.

I use Klotz Super Techiplate in all my Saws and Stihl products. Great oil and the exhaust smells nice. :)

I'm using Castrol POWER1 RACING 2T for many years, my equipment runs flawlessly, no smoke, clean sparkplugs, great compression, great throttle response... Strongly recommended for mixing 2%. I won't experiment with oils. I found perfect one!

I have experienced many various 2-stroke oils over the years, and mixing ratio’s. To date, it is my option that the best running oil, and mixing ratio is: 40:1 and Amsoil Saber. I use recreational fuel only, to avoid ethanol E85 left in the hose.

@Richard Flagg Thank you for your honest and informative videos. There is one important bit of information I was waiting for you to share but you may have missed it. According to the JASO M345 implementation manual, regarding 2 stroke oil certification, page 4 lists a notification that JASO does NOT certify the claims that any oil actually meets their standards. They essentially take the blenders / oil company's word that it does meet one of those standards. They pay the fee they get listed on the JASO site as approved and legally get to have the stamp on the bottle.

Too many people just do not know that equipment is meant to have oil Mix in it. The number of burnt out engines must be huge from straight fuel only.

I ran AMSOIL Dominator two cycle racing oil at 50 to 1 with up to 116 research octane race fuel in my mod race snowmobile engine for two full seasons before it got torn down one time. We normally tear them down a couple times a season. Anyway there was absolutely no scuffing or scoring on the piston skirts more like polishing. Never missed a beat or had to replace a spark plug either. Now having said that, the racing oils aren't necessarily the best for normal use however, that's why Dominator doesn't have any ratings on the bottle. They often lack rust, corrosion inhibitors and detergents, because race engines are torn down often and are usually more looked after. I would have liked to see you test the AMSOIL Saber 100 to 1 two cycle premix oil for small equipment and that kind of stuff. It's great stuff. Or the AMSOIL Interceptor two cycle oil for snow machines, watercraft & motorcycles with oil injection and exhaust valve engines. Oops, you didn't do testing, I commented before I watched, sorry bout that.

I really enjoy all the great real life info. I have been using ASPEN fuel . Would like to see some testing using some of the aspen 2.. Keep up the great info.

I run belray h1r in my 2 strokes definitely more per quart but I haven't had any issues what so ever. And the smell is something to rev for.

I’ve got a bunch of Stihl gallon premix cans. They are now my cans for Red Armor mix lol. 😂

Hi. Here in tropical Fiji, I go with Total Pro Sylva 2T Synthetic oil. With JASO FD rating and compatible with all major equipment brands and manufacturers, they are available at very competitive and affordable prices, compared to those marketed by equipment manufacturers and others. The 50:1 premixed fuel available at service stations, is a separate product like unleaded gasoline, diesel or kerosene. I venture to wager that upwards of 95% of local clearance contractors; use the premixed fuel from service stations. And to the best of my knowledge have relied on this premixed fuel for 15 years at least, maybe more. Homeowners and private owners have had almost lifetime reliability without issues. Better 2 stroke oils in the islands of Oceania depends on what is available, and what is financially convenient .

Im running 32 to 1 in my stihl bg86 for 10 years now. Got rid of the spark arrestor. About 7 hrs a yr of intermittent throttle use with a minute of wide open throttle per use. Spark plug is brown color and doesn't foul out. If your spark plug doesn't foul out, you're not using too much oil. Thankyou for the video.

Awesome job with this. Oils are a super big black hole with a crazy amount of "variables". You are making full sense

Great content Richard and as always there is never a completely right answer. I run Motul 2T in all of my saws at about 45:1 give or take a little on the beaker accuracy and the temp that I am at in the shop when I mix it. I know some motocross racers/bike builders that know more about 2 stroke engines than I’ll ever dream of knowing, and believe me those guys can make a mean chainsaw if they wanted to. Most don’t because there are better things they want to build. That’s not to say that other guys don’t know how, it’s like anything else there are levels of experience in a particular area that transfer well to some but not to others. I’ll leave it at that. I run the Ultra in my yard tools with no issues, and i’m talking everything from the old craftsman to my Stihl equipment and it doesn’t make that much sense to spend what I spend on oil for my saws. Most of the time that equipment operates it’s not WOT and heavy load stresses. Anyhow thanks for the info, and that’s how we all learn. I like what you said about thinking about it first. 👍

Hi Rich. I dump my fuel into a mason jar and then put it in the car fuel tank. Just make sure the car is almost full so that it gets mixed in with a bunch of clean gas. Never had a problem.

Glad to hear you mention VP

I have used the Husky xp for my husky 55s life. Got low on compression so tore it down and all it needed was a new ring! Clean as a whistle inside with very minor carbon build. Very pleased with their product. Always used 40:1.

The 2 smoke oil I should use is my supply of Mobil MX2T. Still great after all these years.

A man that knows what he's on about! thank you Richard👍

Excellent job. Thank you. In my old Stihl 039, I have run ethanol gas with fuel stabilizer and, of course, Stihl Ultra. Now that I have a new Stihl 462, I want to run good oil and decent fuel. However, I'm not going to run the canned fuel because I ran the numbers and decided the price isn't justified. As far as infrequently used stuff, like hedge trimmers, I've been switching to battery power.

My Husky Saws are 25 + years old .. I have never even had a Carburetor apart.. I have two McCullough chain saws older than that. For the last many years have used 93 Octane E-10 .. I mix a bit Richer than 40 to 1.. in a 2.5 gallon can.. If that can of gas is over 1 year old I add a bit more oil to it. Most of this stuff gets stored in the Oil Room in my Insulated shop.. No Windows.. I always run the gas levels down low.. So I can Top off with fresh gas before starting. I have a Colman Generator Keep the gas tank full .. It sat for 3 -4 years with out starting. I shut the gas off and run the carb out of gasoline. I had Stable oil in the gas. It started on the first pull ran fine until the tank was low shut it off. It would not start again. I guess I will have to rebuild that carb. My point is where you store your gas makes a huge difference.. Inside my shop it never gets colder than about 40-F and never hotter than about 77-F and I run a Dehumidifier all summer. Leather motorcycle had been getting moldy in Michigan .. Tools were getting rusty .. so now I leave the de-humidifier plugged in all summer..

Richard, exceptional work. Please tell mate, if you had to choose only 2 oils to use on your saw for the rest of your days, nothing else allowed, no exceptions, what would you choose?

I started using 2 stroke boat oil in my weed eater so far so good it seems to run a lot better

Any oil brand is better than no oil

Great job thanks for taking the time to do this .

Klotz mixed at 32:1 for air cooled scooters running 320-400*. SuperTechniPlate with the 20% caster oil for the sticky-ness to the metal parts.

I've tried literally every two-stroke oil imaginable for my motorized bicycle. My bikes seem to like Maxima super M the best, it's a lot more forgiving with your tuning.

Like you, I've tried a lot of oils. Best results for me in all my saws have been ams oil saber and opti2 running 40-45 to 1. Thanks for your assessment.

Boat oils are intended for low temp water cooled cylinder operation, these don't contain the metal ash package for high temp air cooled engines, it's mostly a hydrazine based detergent. API-TC contains the low ash metallic detergent package necessary for air cooled 2-strokes running high temp cylinder sleeve. The amount of oil you find in the crankcase will normally be just enough to wet the crank wheels. It should be visible. Use fresh fuel only, especially if it's been mixed.

The worst oil is no oil. I’m sure all of them work ok, some better than others.

Lucas Semi-synthetic is FD approved and about $10 a quart which is a pretty good deal. Thank you for doing this.

Sawing for over 20 years. I am not a professional. Started on Huskys stuff back before 2000. Ran it mostly through 2014 with no issues noticed. Began to dabble with Husky canned fuel and Red Armor mix. I have run about a dozen gallons of Makita's synthetic mix lately in combination with canned fuel, and Red Armor mix. No bad carbon issues and haven't lost a crank bearing yet. I maintain 8 miles of trials and several lots on 200 acres of eastern hardwoods. 10-12 cord of firewood per year, typically. Gasoline freshness has as much to do with carbon as the oil, according to my weed eater. 50:1 always.

I grabbed some Castrol GO 2t oil. I swear it's the same as stihl hp orange bottle. Been working good so far and it's like 8 bucks a quart online. I go threw alot so the price helps. The small bottles are expensive!

I’ve used Echo power blend in all my saws for years now, buy it in the 1 gallon container.

I like the VP small engine 2 cycle oil. It’s FD rated and then some

No, 28 to 1 in the Zenoah. I do not want it to stick. Yes, I have a graduated cylinder for measuring oil. Yes, I plan to use either non-ethanol or canned fuel.

Schaeffer’s proprietary additive Penetro is a game changer. Schaeffer’s is best.

Great video Richard Stihl hp is Castrol in Canada in America who knows in 40 years l never had a failure with Amsoil Sabre and the older before Sabre at 50/1 if l ran chain saws l think I would use Shaeffer at 40/1

Good breakdown of the oils👍🏻 for fuel, none of my small engine equipment has seen ethanol blended gas in the last 10 years. Mowers, generators and most all my 4 cycle equipment gets non ethanol pump gas when in season, 100ll avgas for storage or low/sporadic use. 2 cycle equipment gets the same non e IF I'm going to be using a LOT of fuel for a job or project. Otherwise I use 100ll, sunoco 260gtx or canned 4 cycle fuel mixed with oil and rarely ever use a piece of 2t equipment without a corresponding adjustment screwdriver in my pocket.

I have always used 2 stroke equipment, I have tried pretty much every oil going - the best oil in my opinion and the one I now use exlusively is the Shindaiwa Red Armor oil

Thanks friend. I've been running the VP Racing full synthetic (from Tractor Supply) at 50:1 in all my OPE for 3 years. I've been happy so far. Always real gas 91 octane fuel. I'm leaning toward switching to 40:1 but I'm sticking with VP full synthetic.

I read an article that said that TC-W3 was the highest rated two Stroke Oil, then found out later that it's just a bio-degradable sped for outboard motors.. where the exhaust has Lake Water run through it .

What brand to use? Use any brand name oil from your saw dealer and you'll be fine. Every guy has his favorite oil and a colorful testimonial to support it. The more guys you listen to, the more confusing it gets. Use the oils that you are suppose to. Outboard oils have different additive packages and classifications than air cooled engine oils. Outboard oils are designed to make the engines run warmer and air cooled engine oils the exact opposite. Not knocking your video by the way, enjoyed it.

I have used valvoline or amalie 2 stroke oil for years and even used 40 weight engine oil mixed at 20:1 for all my saws and have never had an engine wear out or blow up in 25 years and I cut a lot of firewood and brush too. more oil is the key to long engine life. I know a guy that always mixed his gas at 50:1 with stihl brand oil and he burned his engine up in 6 months of hard use getting out logs

Two stroke motorbikes for instance have more complicated regime where you can run the bike at 20: 1 for heavy load conditions and normal operation 32:1 and light operation 40:1 so they do recognise different loads on the Engine. Most people in suburbia will get away with 50:1 with a factory lean fuel mixture setting and the manufacturers oil because they never get the engine really hot enough but if they were to run at 32:1 or even 40:1 , they would have problems with carbon buildup and tar in the exhaust system. It's probably not the brand of oil, but the oil used for the right conditions and correct tuning is more important.

I can mix a gallon of straight gas with a dab of sta-bil and it lasts for over a year until it’s used up.

I'm in California, so we don't have the luxury of ethanol free gas. My dad ran the cheapest 2 stroke oil he could find and the cheapest gas in all his OPE for decades servicing 15-20 properties every week. His equipment would get stolen before it could wear out. 🤷 Now that he's retired, I've inherited the last 4 properties that I service every other weekend (I work 40-50hr/weeks CNC maching). I've switched to running 91 octane from Chevron, and Amsoil Saber at 80:1. I also use the fuel stabilizer from Amsoil (Quickshot?) in my premixed and straight gas for the Honda HRC mower. Echo PAS trimmer, 2 Echo backpack blowers, Shindaiwa hedge trimmer all start easier, run very well, and mostly smoke less. Only the PB-461LN smokes the same as before, but I think it's a combination of old fouling, and the more restrictive exhaust to get the 65 Db noise compliance. I may buy a new muffler, none of the properties I service now require Low Noise equipment. Im going to keep this equipment alive as long as possible, in a few years I'll have to drive out of state to by any small gas powered equipment because it will be illegal to sell in this garbage state.. (but perfectly legal to steal, apparently)

Omni Specialty (Shreveport, LA) blends Tru Fuel, Red Armor, Stihl Orange and Ultra.

Always excellent info, thanks Mr. Richard.

I've taken apart lots of chainsaws and people that mix at 50:1 those saws are dry on the inside hardly any oil film on anything that most oils , now I'm going to get specific, all my chainsaws that I've used Stihl oils are the worst for being dry , people that use maximum oils , klotz, bel-ray, at 50:1there is a light film but it only takes one time of over heating that saw to score a cylinder and piston, my saws that I build I use klots snowmobile oil in my saws at 32:1 and no issues, I even went to Walmart and bought quick silver marine outboard oil and had no issues at 32:1

2 stroke engine oils can be temperamental for lawn mowers, I was told, for I discovered that I made few failed attempts to start it, then took it to a service dealer and it was like the magic touch the service dealer managed to start the 2 stroke engine oil only once. Would you rather a 4 stroke engine oil lawn mower for someone that doesn't know from a to b? A Honda is one of the best brands to buy.

Many folks let their gas cans get hot in the sun, so gas evaporates and the mix gets oil rich. Best to mix small batches. Keep gas cans in shaded or cool area and use fresh non-ethonol gas. If you start with more than 50:1 or 40:1 and mixture gets more oil rich after gas evaporates, that could become a cruddy problem, especially if idling the saw a lot or running at half throttle etc. I've seen a lot of people run a saw like driving a car for whatever reason. Instead, most of the time saws are supposed to be run full throttle in the cut under load.

I have run amzoil saber for more years that I can remember, I use it in everything from a Mac 10-10 chain saw to my newer stihl blowers weed trimmer and saws.And never have to much of no carb work. I run 2oz per gallon mix in everything

My Husky HP oil states JASO FB/ISO EGB Rotax 353 Snowmobile test… Run at 40:1 or so in a Husky 460 saw and Mitsubishi whipper snipper. Usually 98octane, not ethanol ever.

I use red armor Echo two-cycle oil. 92 octane non-ethanol gasoline! In all my two cycle equipment.

The Schaeffer's history is a heckuva pioneer story.... And you can take a tour in St. Louis at the factory if you've a mind to.

Yes typical operations . If I crank a 2 stroke I run it, under load of course . Like a stole it. And my mufflers are clean, and I have equipment that’s over a decade old that has a clean piston , muffler , and cylinder.

I really enjoy these videos. I loved the old Homelite 16:1 mix. Not a mosquito for miles😂😂 I’ve had no luck with that canned gas from the stores. String trimmer was on strike with that 💩. Loves pump gas tho. So ethanol it is in the diet. For storage I’ve used Sta-Bil for many trips around the sun and I swear by it. Although I prefer fresh fuel. Thanks for another great video

I have stuff that runs both 40 to one and 50 to one so to keep it simple I mix 2.9 ounces of old fashioned Pennzoil TCW-3 two stroke with one gallon of gas which gives me a 45 to one ratio.Ashless burn is what you are looking for here but ALL oils will eventually gum up the rings a bit and cause high compression or hard starting. Cure this by dumping an ounce of Berrymans b12 in the cylinder and roll it a few times by hand with spark plug out to free any gummed rings. Let sit for a few hours then spray in some good gun oil or similar and roll it again by hand. Pur plug back and you are all set to go again. My Rancher 55 is over 20 years old and still cuts like a demon and has never been rebuilt.I also have 3 other saws that I run the same way with no problems. Synthetics are overpriced and over rated,...not worth the money. The best thing you can ever do for a good saw is to keep it properly sharpened and use plenty of quality bar oil and GREASE the roller tip at every refueling. A lightly loaded and well lubed saw lasts many years longer than an abused neglected one. Work smarter not harder !!!

A comment that said if oil is dripping out of exhaust you are using too much oil is incorrect. Actually one can run no oil at all in fuel and have wet black dripping out of exhaust because the air to fuel mixture is incorrect. To much fuel not enough air through the jets. Years previous with 2 stroke dirt bikes, would run 20:1 and would jet(adjust) the fuel/air ratio and pipe would burn a dry dark gray. When one uses less oil in fuel mix it actually runs richer, making more black goo in exhaust, because the less oil in gas results in the mixture actually being thinner allowing more fuel through the jets. Even correctly jetted big bore Yamaha at 16:1 and pipe burned dry gray. Actually seemed to have more power than 32:1

I can vouch for the stihl hp super. I understand you guys in the US cannot get and I can't understand why.. its a semi synthetic ISO L EGD that's the new rating of jaso FD. It has a low smoke additive and also a fuel stabilizer, I tested this oil and gas mix with E95 petrol that's 5% ethanol. I put some of the super mix in a clean empty whiskey bottle about a quarter full, nearly 3 yes THREE years on it's still perfect, no separation no nasty smell in fact smells like day one! I'm going to leave it there as an experiment and see just how long it holds up. I can understand why the epa wouldn't like this oil as it would be damaging to the environment but I'm not planning on spilling it on the ground or into a stream! Oh no.. hence why stihl are pressing and pushing ultra because its epa and environmentaly friendly, well screw that I want the best oil in my saw so I'm mixing the hp super with aspen 4 for the best 2 stroke mix I can think.of.. that oil has to to be unreal to keep fuel good 3 years on!

This is great content. I just bought a 592xp from my local dealer. I asked him what he thought about which oil to use. He said from what hes learned and seen that in todays world the detergents/ additives are what do the lubricating. He said run the husky oil. I had been using amsoil semi synthetic. The main reason he’s recommending using a husky oil is because he has documents to prove that it will keep the cylinder cooler and that oil is tested on air cooled small gas engines. Most of the other oils you can buy are mainly run in liquid cooled or oil injected conditions. I hope all of this makes sense. He also said no need at all to run more than 50:1.

Just subscribed very good information, I have my finger about to buy some Opti-2 that I was going to try in the outboard and all the chainsaws but now I think I dig deeper for info thanks

I like the Bel-Ray H1R 100% synthetic ester 👌

The lowes pro select bar oil.is my favorite especially mixed with name brand bar oil.it flows better i dont like that nbig name like stihl bar oil.by itself...it cloggs up the oiler holes and especially on certain types of trees.i know this is on 2cycle oil.but you had pro select .the bar oil version comes in white plastic jug at lowes..love that stuff..

I use the expensive bottles pre-measured for one gallon despite the expense because it forces me to buy fuel more often and drunk fuel is all we have other than canned $$. I am cheap enough to flush those little bottles with some gas to get that last drop or three, I am extravogant enough to mix the oil with only 7 pints of fuel to get a more oil rich mix. I do not use as much fuel mix as in years before due to use of rechargeables for a lot of the yard work.

I live in the Seattle area and I have nothing but ethanol fuel. I found out a little trick with that I did a test over two years. I had to 1 gallon cans and mixed steel oil with it left it in one pan for over two years and it ran flawlessly now I’ll tell you what I did I capped off all the air from the tank I didn’t seal the tank. I just capped off the free air so I closed the vent. They close the fill tube that you fill it through at the gas station and I closed the pourspout. I did not seal the pourspout the can could still vent if it needed to, but I closed off the free air that fuel at two years older and it’s good as fresh fuel so there’s a way to handle the fuel.

I believe that FC 2T oil is low ash. Ash is an extreme, high heat lubricant, but it is a little "dirty." FD 2T oil is ashless. In an extreme duty situation (racing) FC may be better for protecting your race engine.

I've been using stihl ultra for years and have not had a single failure and have never even had change a carburetor

I bought a Husqvarna line trimmer and I have gallons of YamaLube 2-stroke outboard oil on hand for my 75 HP outboard engine. Husqvarna says; "CAUTION: Do not use two-stroke oil for water-cooled outboard engines, also referred to as outboard oil." Thoughts and why not? I run YamaLube in my Stihl chainsaws without any problems. (I'm a homeowner so my equipment isn't used like a professional would)

Rich oil is like religion, very touchy subject. Everyone should use what makes them sleep at night. Full tilt buggie trimmer checking in. @32 no spark arrestor foul up. Plug has a nice brown tint.

I like the old sthil 2 stroke oil I love how it smokes I checked out my piston rings no were at all I rebuilt my sthil 441 magnum I keep use the sthil in orange bottle best one bar oil good to I try them all

Run premium fuel only. Btw Castrol makes most of these oils and package them in these containers for manufacturer's.

Husky XP plus for 550xp saw. The pre mixed fuel is awesome

I am very happy using Amsoil dominator in my 2 stroke dirt bike. Amsoil is a polyalphaolefin oil. Maybe saber is better for smaller engines than dominator.

I like castor oil, best lubricity than and FD. Its dirtier, but you can run way LEss, concentration like 60:1 even in a hot aircooled. Also Love the smell on cool equipment room. I do Scrap and scrub the piston and exhaust port and pipe once Every 2 Years. Throw some MMO each 3rd tank. I'm old school.

I have found the Walmart Synthetic 2 stoke oil works Great !

Dominator is for race sleds. Interceptor is the Amsoil you want to use.

No oil standards rating on the product might mean it costs money for the honor to place the logo on the product. It's probably like toothpaste. The ADA Assoation logo used to be on all tubes. Companies want to maximize profits.

I have been using Alco no smoke, and hi-test ethanol free gas in all my 2 stroke. Now they don't make alco anymore. Just replaced a plug, fuel filter, and air filter on ms 170 stihl, 15 years old. Not bad huh.

Hi Richard I've ran Amsoil Sabre at 40/1 for 2 months and I see no bad effects about anything I think all my lawn equipment actually runs better. Next month I'm going to try Echo Red Armor at 40/1 thanks 👍

I have to disagree with you saying that the two stroke oil is supposed to be part of combustion this is very much not true coming from some one who builds and dynos two strokes often if your oil is burning your losing life making carbon build up running hotter than needed im willing to bet if you adjust the carb properly for a 16:1 ratio of castor oil you’ll see more performance than you have ever seen from your motor on a 50hp motor (making 50hp on 32:1 syn oil) well see a 7-8hp increase with a 16:1 castor oil mix and proper rejetting of the carb as the extra oil will cause afr to lean out! You will also notice upon disassembly you’ll have no carbon on piston or exhaust port from oil washing yes you get a little spoog out the pipe but more hp longer life cooler running is a trade I often make

We really need an aspen video Ritch

i use red line 2-stroke synthetic. seems to be ok. i prefer 40:1 for chainsaws but to each their own.

I've been running Red Armor since it came out. California gas is junk. The biggest difference I've noticed is running Aspen 2. Saws start easily and run better with the alkylate fuel.