Hey man, I appreciate the compliment! I plan to update some other foundational videos I've made in the past, so stay tuned for some better coverage!

It’s funny, my sister is rooted in equestrian training and competition, and we speak much the same language in so many different situations. I often tell people to watch the way professional horseback riders maintain perfect balance on the horse- it’s NOT by holding on to rigid and fixed handles in front of them!

Oh yes if ya grab especially the wrong horse.. they “ off” to the races

Hey thanks for the support!

Thanks buddy👍

Hey man, I appreciate that immensely. And I must say the more videos I watch the more frustrated I get because there’s so much damn fluff and waste of time and little Clickbait crap I have to sift through to actually get the message. Hate that. I definitely won’t purposely waste anybody’s time ha ha.👍

Appreciate the kind words- To your question: YES, a simple U-turn could, generally, be done without setting up the friction zone as I demonstrate in the video. The purpose and benefit of this technique only begins to reveal itself as speeds slow, lean angles increase, and the rider finds himself/herself in multiple-turn situations or ones where the surface is not predictable. In other words, NOT just U-turns, but combinations of slow turning maneuvers. If you have a small, light bike or simply do not do police-style riding, the juice here might not be worth the squeeze... Because much of my instruction and demonstration stems from a law-enforcement foundation, the friction zone techniques are foundational and necessary; big heavy bikes getting thrown around at slow speeds within very tight spaces. In this video, I isolated my lesson utilizing a U-turn for simplicity of articulating the technique and helping riders train the technique in a simple repeatable manner. But the application of such a technique will find itself useful in much higher performing environments.

Hey I’m in VA as I type this and it’s 28 and snowing so I feel you! And Yes, set the friction zone up and have it in motion before you need it 👍Let me know how it goes when you’re on the bike!

@@PoliceMotorTraining I typically do the same for come work but for casually street maneuvers I've been experimenting with "gliding" more lately. I try as much as possible not to use the rear brake at all. Less wear and tear but it also challenges me more. Just me goofing and having fun. Virginia? Brrr! I've got about 8 more weeks then I'm back teaching the MSF BRC course at 6am in 20s/30s temps! Ughhhh. Gotta move south!

Hey brother thanks for the kind words and support! It's greatly appreciated, seriously. As for recording tools, I have a few things (nothing I love at this point...) I have a simple digital recorder with wired mic that I stick inside the helmet while the recorder is on my belt loop- This gives solid audio no matter what the video source (drone, Go Pro, fixed DJI camera, etc.) however it requires time-consuming editing, as the audio is not synced to the video of any device. If you have multiple recording devices for a given video, not much you can do here. But on these little "3-min motor training" videos, I simply run a Go Pro hero 12 Black, and because it has Bluetooth capability, I can use a wireless mic (SabineTek wireless mic) and all camera audio runs through the mic. (*IF you play back the audio prior to running it into editing software, for some reason it doesn't provide the wireless mic recorded audio-so you THINK you didn't actually get the audio sorted. But then you edit the video and the wireless audio is now what plays back...No idea WHY, probably user-error). But this wireless mic eliminates the audio/video sync challenges, which is nice. I run a "dead cat" on all my mics since i'm outside and rolling around in the wind. I've played around with 360 cameras but I didn't like the editing challenges...Again operator error, but the Hero 12 with the Max Lens 2.0 worked better for me and way easier to manage. Hope this helps a little bit, I am a work in progress on this front and will continue to get better!

@@PoliceMotorTraining That is a MUCH more detailed response than I anticipated, thank you a lot for that! I definitely believe that audio is probably a much more difficult thing to get right. I would like to get into doing KZfaq again but it was always difficult to achieve consistent audio, even without adjusting anything. My setup only really consisted of a PurplePanda lavalier mic plugged directly into a GoPro. I have seen some people having success with the new DJI wireless mic setup. Expensive but if you do YT as part of a job or as a passion project, might be more worthwhile

Thanks Jason- Light rear brake definitely helps stabilize the bike for slow speed turning movements, so I use it (it IS a crutch of sorts and NO brakes are better for training good clutch/throttle control). The front brake helps on lots of other fronts: slowing, loading the front, changing steering geometry into the corner, lighter steering into full lock…So I use that everywhere. BUT it’s a bit more complicated so I don’t discuss in this video as to not make people feel it’s necessary to benefit from this video that provides guidance on when we want to set up clutch/throttle. If you want to learn this, I have a video on overlapping controls which is helpful in working out that technique. I will be updating it in the next month or so as well, so either way we can get you sorted 👍

@@PoliceMotorTraining very well said and easily understood, thank you!!

Both the K models and the RT models have similar brake systems and front suspension systems. They are both Tele-lever suspension and linked brakes. That means there is less dive on the front end to generate the steering geometry We are looking for, compared to traditional forks and rear brake application does not interfere with front brake actuation in any way, which is great. In other words, outside of the power characteristics and general weight and wheelbase numbers, the overall behavior should be similar.

I was thinking more in regards to the boxermotor probably will stall sooner when being 'held back' as compared to the 6-cyl. And that is something you don't want to see when doing the tightest turn possible. Also, this discipline needs a lot of practice, so you are able to keep a steady pressure on the brake pedal while at the same time shifting from side to side.

Oh, OK I understand your point. That might be accurate, I’m not sure, but in either case, I wouldn’t want to take such big heavy bikes and dance so close to the low RPM range while also adding any slow speed lean angle without having the friction zone set up. Personally, I feel I would be asking for trouble in that situation, which is where this technique really benefits people because we set that up before speeds drop considerably and lean angle and gravity kick in. Of course, if you are simply slowing down to a still-manageable speed and not really executing any tight maneuver that requires bike drop, then you should be fine with just light rear brake dragging👍

Yes they do, and we have a Canadian distributor-Motorcycle Innovations, owner is Matt. Give them a shot

It depends on what you want to accomplish. If you want to master slow speed maneuvers in confined spaces, you will eventually want to explore this technique. If that’s not a big priority, and you find yourself in tight situations on rare occasions, you should probably be OK with a 400 cc sport bike given Its size and weight is minimal. I think many motorcyclists have lived a lifetime without ever learning this style of riding, so clearly you can get by without it. But if you have it in your bag of tricks, I think you would find yourself utilizing it regularly every time you swung a leg over the bike.

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words- As for the braking component, yes, I overlap the controls and I originally planned to address this, but in the end I felt it was a discussion for another video. As for 4 fingers VS 1 finger, the answer is based on the bike and the situation. If I have a strong braking system, which my BMW has (I can lift the back of the bike up off the ground with 1 finger) then I am better off with less fingers, as I gain more purchase on the bars and I have more range of motion over the brake lever when I cover it and transition from off/on throttle. If you do NOT overlap controls, or have a less powerful braking system (I race vintage bikes with drum brakes and use 2 fingers) then power is job #1.

My motorcycle is a 2023 model with only a few thousand miles on it. But in my experience of riding and competing on this model of motorcycle over the last 15 years I would say the final drives are not an issue. Just simply service them with an oil change when your manual advises to do so, and expect tens of thousands of trouble free miles.

@@PoliceMotorTraining Awesome, thanks for letting me know.

I’m not sure I fully understand your question? I am positioning the clutch so that it is in the friction zone prior to the motorcycle leaning over and dropping into the U-turn. In order to have the clutch in the friction zone, I must also set the throttle so that it is humming at a decent RPM. This is a traditional law enforcement motor technique taught at academies around the country. This video simply establishes a philosophy for the motorcyclist to adopt, so they ensure the friction zone technique is in place and executed before the bike has any lean angle. If I missed your question, please reach out to me directly, and we can discuss in greater length.👍

Are you setting the friction zone and keeping it static or are you riding it adjusting power

@@RollModel724 Ahh OK- So the short answer is that it varies, because in some cases I will have the friction zone set with the perfect amount of power to the rear wheel for the given speed and radius I execute, so then NO, its static "set it and forget it." But in other situations, like misjudging the camber, or my rate of drop-in, these might call for MORE power to the rear wheel to keep everything steady, so I would let the clutch out a bit and match throttle accordingly. When I am competing, I am slowly adding power and throttle from the apex on through the turn, so in this scenario It's not static but steady growth of power and clutch engagement. In this video demonstration however, its all static; It's smooth, steady drop and apex, with steady throttle and friction zone until the bike is upright and headed back in the other direction.

David- Thank you, I have a few things in the works related to a field training booklet, with specific "Quinn Redeker" aspects, however I'm always up for a discussion to hear somebody's ideas. Feel free to reach out for a conversation, my contact info is on my website www.policemotortraining.com

Not all by itself it wont, but definitely you CAN smoke the clutch by slipping it for long periods at high RPM. Once you learn this technique it's pretty easy on the clutch, especially considering we are not "living" in the friction zone, but only momentarily slipping the clutch during the portions of slow speed lean angle we encounter where speeds drop.

@PoliceMotorTraining thanks for clarifying. Appreciated.