You're very welcome. I'm so glad you enjoy them.

Thank you very much.

You're very welcome.

Thanks, Heather.

Thanks, Sean. Glad I can help. Enjoy every step in the process.

Awesome! Thank you!

Where’s is this list please?

Thank you for the nice comment.

That's wonderful. Thanks for letting me know.

You can do it!

Thank you so much. I'm so glad to hear your children are involved in gardening -- thank you for that!

Thanks! Welcome to the channel.

Hi, Enge. You will probably be okay. The onions take a long time to grow and transplant well even when they're big; I started some onions this week. Oregano is also a bit slow to grow big and transplants well. It is a bit early to start the peppers, but plan to transplant into bigger pots as they grow. I've started a few for my zone 5 garden too. I plan to put them in Wall O' Waters and under plastic hoophouses so I can get them out early this year.

That sounds like quite a setup, Ken. You have it figured out. Enjoy!

Thank you, Ed. I particularly appreciate the thought of your Pop-Pop living on. That's how I like to garden, by making and preserving memories. Sounds like you're off to a great start to the gardening year. Enjoy it!

Thanks! Enjoy it.

Welcome to the channel, Bud. Glad to help.

Now you can shoot at a target, Leonard. Hope to hear about the better results you get this year.

@@GardenerScott A person in my area says she does not transplant until June 1st. Our average date is May 12th. I know I need to watch the weather, but if it is 3 weeks later am I going to be ok, or should I be thinking of pushing my start dates back. She says it is because she has lost a lot of plants.

Leonard, a lot of it depends on what plants you want to start inside. Cool season plants can handle a dip in temperature after transplanting, but the warm season plants will be damaged. Many Zone 5 gardeners, like us, have learned from experience that if you plant too close to the last frost date you run the risk of losing those warm season plants to a late freeze. I use June 1st as my target for transplanting most of my tomatoes and peppers for that reason. However, I do start some at the beginning of May using Wall O' Waters and I did a video on that kzfaq.info/get/bejne/irF3YNSZuKe8ZZ8.html Season extenders like those and plastic hoophouses and cold frames can allow you to get plants in the ground with less worry about frost. If you don't use a season extender, it's probably better safe than sorry and plant later. Pushing back your start dates by a couple weeks may be wise for this year and then you can get a feel for what works best for you. Remember that recommended start dates are usually a range of weeks, so if tomatoes are 6-8 weeks before the last frost you can start your seeds 6 weeks before the last frost date and the plants will go in the ground at the 8-week point.

Thanks!

Judy, use this as a good opportunity to see how it works with the plants you chose to start. And then modify as necessary for next year. :)

Good question. I don't include the week of hardening off in the starting calculation.

I'm in zone 5b

Glad to hear it!

I’m so cheap I use aluminum foil

Thanks, Tyson. Good suggestion. I am planning a future video about starting seeds and growing in a greenhouse with those same conditions, but it will be awhile before it comes out. I'll see if I can put together a video later this year that discusses your concerns.

@@GardenerScott thanks again!

Lettuce can be started ahead. I start a few lettuce indoors and then sow seeds at the same time I transplant them. That gives a steady supply for harvest.

The germination time is included in the count-back time. A seed started six weeks before the last frost date may take a week to germinate, which means it has five weeks of active growing.

Stagger your sowing and planting. I mention it in a few videos. I do it with plants like lettuce and radishes. Sow seeds, wait a few weeks and sow seeds again; you'll get two distinct harvests.

@@GardenerScott Two follow-ups: 1) If I can fit the three raised beds, would you advise me to shift the additional sowings into beds #2 and #3, sort of like shifting compost to another bin? 2) Realizing that I have a nice long growing season (albeit way past "toasty" in the summer), could I use the "stagger" on tomatoes/peppers/squashes, or is the heat my enemy?

Thanks! Depending on the plant, I typically started 4-8 weeks earlier than outside sowing. Temperatures are usually warm enough but the amount of daily sunlight may not be enough if started earlier than that.

Thank you for your quick reply. It is helpful.