Ask a structural engineer! What ever ties you put in are going to make no difference if there is differential settlement from the newly built extension and the original house. Probably the extension settles and cracked open the joint. By the time you repaired probably the extension has settled and no longer significantly settling at a different rate to the original house. Also best to cut all way through to stop damp and cold, add ties as required thus no issue. There should really be a "soft / movement joint" at this location to allow for differential settlement. However this should be considered with regards to the wall layout for structural stability to be maintained. I would not recommend a builder specify remedial works. Builders should carry out the works specified by a professional with specific experience in regards to the issue being addressed.

Extensions should always be attached to the existing building with control or expansion joints and fixed with expansion ties to add stability, then sealed with adhesive to allow for movement that comes with settlement.

Surely the main concern here would be footings not the wall ties??

Could be many things as you say footings also but in this case we did the ties first as the foundation were passed and seemed ok. Do the ties and see if any more movement in this case it was years ago we did this job and they have had no problems since. Great question tho.

I own a 1960's ranch home in the US- wood frame with brick veneer. Asphalt sheet type sheathing was originally used, with no type of moisture wrap like Tyvek. The home has experienced termite damage and some of the exterior walls will need to be reframed. I have some contractors telling me it's not a problem to reframe and repair it and other's telling me they literally don't know if it can be done because there would be no way to retie the brick veneer wall into the new framing. Is there an approved standard method to retie the brick veneer into a newly framed wall from the interior (or some way to tie the brick veneer to the newly framed wall from the exterior instead of the interior) so that the brick would maintain its structural security? Any advice would be extremely appreciated!!

i agree yes they should of put a vertical d.p.c on the inside of the cavity. this i come across alot, the vertical dpc stops any damp passing throw the wall external wall onto the internal wall. use a cutter to do this cut. sometimes depending on were the cut is to be done it can weaken the wall so maybe just a cut that is about half way into the brick. the idea is that the damp hits the dpc and drops down into the cavity.

How did you mange to drill fixings unless you hit the mortar bed with an angle drill. Not seen angle hammer drills? Also can you explain the vertical DPC for say a rendered wall, would a slice through the render be enough? Cheers

Hi Audra I'm sorry to say I don't no. If you send me some pictures I may be able to ask my building inspector to see what he thinks. There has to be a wall straps that can be used for this problem but which one? Thanks karl

I've been looking for those bricks with the frog at the bottom .I found a hat with the peak at the back though 😂

where can i get some of them from pal ?

How thick is that mortar joint on the inside wall? lol also they forgot the vertical dpc

Omg frog down and a fire hazard in the cavverty . Quality 👍

good clear demo

Assume you are going to rebuild the joint using the "crocodile" tie. But the force that caused the movement in the first place will still be there. Will this not mean that a new crack will form at the next weakest point?

The ties are only there to provide lateral restraint. If the joint is opening IP you've got bigger problems

yes mate i have seen a lot of bodged jobs in my time. from walls being held up by small pieces of timber to concrete foundations filled in with rubble once the building inspector has been and passed the depth. my advise is always see whats going on with the job ask every day how the progress is going on with the job. most of all take lots and lots of photographs. look into how things work so the builder thinks your on the ball. some people just take the pissatoes. but please remember there are cowboy customers out there too. look out for them they should make a series on that.

As my old bricklaying partner would say, “ cor, rough as a badgers arse” 😂😂

Both brickwork and internal blockwork should be tied to the original building, more importantly the cavity should be continues, just cutting a slot through the brickwork and inserting vertical DPC will cause a cold spot and only cutting part way through the wall to insert the vertical DPC will not stop damp tracking through. Vertical DPC is not required if the cavity is continues. If the blockwork and brickwork are properly tied in, the strength integrity of the original building will not be compromised. hope this helps:) Cheers.

Relitvly recent brickwork!....... few bits on steel aint going to fix this problem! obviously footing collapse that's where the problem needs to be addressed!

Hi mate. Thanks for the gret video. I am planning a 2 storey 6m long extrnsion on a stone house. Would you recommend using debonding clips on the wall starter with expansion joint or is that overkill? Cheers

I find it funny the way tradesmen always criticise other trademens work🤣

Why have they not kept gauge with the original brickwork? I would understand if it was imperial to metric but no reason not to If both the same , starter bars ( furfix ) should be drilled and turned in by a spanner not hit in with with a hammer!

Thank you for this. We are just about to have an extension done.

You see when some people come on with there opinion its not always correct someone just said I play videos of someone else's work. Because I put yes my first choice of correcting this problem would be foundation problems. Second the wall straps. Due to customers not wanting to do the foundations and going for the wall straps first. Which is there choice. Which has to me solved the problem as no cracks have happened over the year's. It to me was a good call. But as some people think there first thought and nothing else.. maybe think more next time. You can not force people you can only give advice to people. And to video other peoples work with my voice on it. No my little parrana fish its me. But thanks for the loss of 30 mins of my time due to you thinking in one direction.

Wow if they've made such a mess of that part I'd be worried about the footings and such.

I look at that and am thinking cowboys the brick matching is ridiculous, no vertical dpc, the timber frame ties they used would work if they got next size up and fixed properly to wall and put in every three courses and the insulation is not suitable it makes you wonder if you opened it up what else you would find👍

Steven you said it if they are fixed to the wall with shit fixings then it's a shit job. The ties are good it's how you fix them. Good question and answer

Lol if you are going to rely on a brick tie to hold up a house with a feeling Foundation .maybe just use bubble gum lol

Bricky for 32 years, they are good ties them ones your using, also they should of continued the cavity, stop damp traveling through, but i would be more concerned about it pulling away from the house to be honest

Of course the straps hold the wall together. How do you think you do it . Tooth the bricks out or wall straps bolted and bricked in. Crossed wires somewere I think

When would you tooth in and when would you use a wall starter?

Next time go to the other end of the wall And build a footed pilaster & steel reinforced Then you could patch your crack

Foundation fault not wall ties

Frog wrong way up "cow boy builders"

wow, can't believe they did this

these straps dont look too powerful either like people use stronger stuff for shelves

Shouldnt be tied in at all old buildling moves different than new if its soild then the brick cracks instead of controle joint where new meets old

Instead of putting the damp proof. Cut a 100mm track

a small screwdiver. you get a tool that attaches to your screwgun that bends for screws. rendering should never reach past the dpc which should be 6" from the outside ground level.

Obviously built by a cowboy. The owner went for the cheapest quote, this would ring bells with me. I have baught a house where the previous owner was a DIY enthusiast, all the tools but no knowledge. As a result I'm now spending a lot of money to put his cock-ups right. Some jobs I can do myself, but others need a good tradesman to put them right. Still the building surveyor for the mortgage company was only to pleased to say the house was ok.

im no fkn expert but id say them ties are the least of your customers worries here

Bricks don’t match, and they are called brick starter bars

What you are using to replace the old ties are just as SHITE...I've used them loads and they aren't very good.. you have to make sure they are reall well fixed to the wall for them to work and even then they aren't brilliant

All those bricks are upside down

They used jablite because its cheap.

Best way is to cut into the existing and tie into it much better job then them steel ties

I’d worry about the bricks not matching.!!😳

bollocks

Another video complaining instead of just doing it.