Glad it helped. Timers are stupid expensive for what they are! Not to mention the fact that the manufacturers are using weaker plastics and less lubrication. For all the money we pay for these appliances they really ought to last better. I guess it gives engineer's a job to keep reinventing the wheel over and over but sometimes I think they come out of school with no kind of real-world experience and then things like this happen.

So glad it helped you! That's what it's all about - helping each other out! Good luck to your family!

Glad it helped you out! It is never my goal to post a video about something that others have already made good videos about rather to post the weird stuff that I discover a cause and fix for and wasn't able to find on KZfaq or online anywhere 😊

So glad it helped you out!

Same thing with mine.

See people say in the comments that they are around $80.

So glad it helped you out!

Glad it's saved you some money! As an observation the newer versions of this timer use a different type of thermoplastic for the cam arms. I think it is a material that is more resistant to wear and I never see a groove in any of that material. Really stinks that they didn't issue a recall to replace the affected timers for customers. Of course, something like that the average person would never know. Only people who work on appliances would ever realize it and even then many wouldn't even bother to take the timer apart and look at the guts, just replace it. Over the years I have seen so many bad design things and the people that pay for it are the customers, they just have to eat it oblivious to the fact they've been screwed. Only if it's something visible like moldy door boots in the Maytag Neptunes or spider arms that corrode and break in the Samsung washers do people even get on to the idea that there is a common problem they can go after. Anyway, glad I could help you fix it!

Make sure your heating element is not open. You should get continuity with an ohm meter across the two big terminals of the heating element. If you are very comfortable around electricity you can try turning the dryer on and while it's running make sure you measure 220 volts at the two terminals of the heating element with your meter on AC volts. This is very dangerous to do and you could get a shock or be killed if you don't know how to do it safely. The heating element is in series with the thermostat right next to the terminals and also with the high limit fuse located at the top of the heat duct. If either of those two are open then you won't get any heat either.

@@PAballoonists hey thanks for the info

There is a little motor on the back of the timer which might be bad. Either the motor coil is open circuit or the gears inside the unit are stripped. When you go to set the time on the dryer do you feel the normal amount of resistance of turning the timer around or is it very easy to turn? If it is very easy to turn that may suggest that the clutch inside the timer that engages with the motor is stripped or broken.

The programming wheels are "keyed" so they only go in one way and therefore there is no gear or cam timing you need to worry about

Sounds like the timer motor isn't running. Does the dryer run at all? Some dryers will run but not heat if the thermal fuse is blown due to excessive lint and/or clogged exhaust.

@@PAballoonists it started heating but the timer still won't advance. May be the timer motor itself. Thanks for replying👍

@@whuzup3 If you have a multimeter, check very carefully on ac volts on the two wires to the motor when the dryer is running on the timed drying cycle (not the auto dry cycle). While unplugged, look for the voltage printed on the motor to see if it says 110 or 220 volts and see if that voltage is being supplied to the motor while the dryer is running on the timed drying cycle. If you do have voltage but the timer does not advance the motor or gears within the motor are likely bad. The reason I say check this on a timed vs. The auto dry cycle is that the timer does not run all the time rather the motor receives power only when the dryer reaches a high enough temperature, causing the timer motor to run in on and off cycles until the cycle completes.

@@PAballoonists I have a multimeter and will check the voltage. We only use the timed cycle when we dry clothes so I've never tried on the auto cycle. I tested and read 220 at the wall receptacle.

Yeah that's what I found as well. There is a little latch finger on each cam that breaks if the user repeatedly turns the timer backwards (counterclockwise) to set the cycle. Doing that eventually breaks the finger on the can and it falls off. I have had success putting the cam back on the drum and using a little JB weld to fill in the space where the latch finger used to be. I put a piece of tape behind the gap in the cam to keep the JB weld from oozing out before it sets. After it's cured you can pull the piece of tape out and put everything back together. Remember to use a little bit of grease like lubriplate on the lobes of the cam to reduce the friction of the levers riding the cam. If you want I can look at my box of stuff and see if I have what you need. If you give me the part numbers from your timer I will look and see if I have one for parts that has a good cam in it

@@PAballoonists thanks for the offer I really appreciate it! But I ended up biting the bullet and bought a whole switch.