two things: The rubber "stop" is a one way valve, doesn't need to be removed, also the burner unit doesn't need to be either. Also you shouldn't put lighter fluid on the burner, reduces its life span. Just needs heat not to be set ablaze.

Cheers Paul.Had a watch of your review and have since purchased one and it is a great bit of kit as you say.What i noticed on mine is that you don't have to remove the black rubber bung as it seems to be self sealing with a small hole/flap already in place.

Paul thanks for the guide, I bought two and the first would not light and the second with difficulty, ( I have a Peacock giant that lights immediately so am familiar with the type) frustrated I packed them back up to return, before I returned them thought I’d check if anyone had a suggestion on lighting them, noticed a comment on Amazon where they mentioned applying a drop of fuel to the top of the burner. Then searched KZfaq and found your video, it lit immediately #alexander binz in a comment says don’t do it as it damages the burner. Edit a week or so on: I'm a little wiser now, and adding fuel to the cap is not good for the catalyst. Apparently the key to getting the cheaper warmers to light (that likely do not use Platinum as the catalyst agent) is to get the body of the warmer warm, this causes the fuel to vapourise and make it to the catalytic head, heat the shoulder of the head and cap not the element (as this can burn off the catalyst), slightly tip the warmer 45degrees and play a flame along the element. On the cheaper ones you won't see the catalyst working, but you will know when it is working as the catalyst head continues to be hot and get hotter, for belt and braces if yours is a sod to keep going, warm the outer cap before replacing. You'll get to know your heater, from my brief experience the Whitby one's are great when you get them going. The Peacock one's light straight away. However the replacement Peacock heads are £21-22 Note your cold hands can stop the heater! Particularly when starting and as the catalyst is degraded and becomes harder to light and goes out during the day. You can feel the effect when you hold a hot warmer and it quite quickly cools down and takes a while to warm up again, makes sense if you think about it. Cold hands slows the fuel evaporation rate. Rinse and repeat as necessary. So 1) Fuel up 2) warm body of the warmer, 3) heat shoulder and base of head, until it is hot to touch (be sensible!) 4) tip and light along the catalytic head. Thankyou very much Paul maybe it was the wrong way to do it but it saved me from returning the heaters. Checkout Mountain Parameters on KZfaq if you want to see a guy that has done a lot of investigation. Graham Final thoughts, I stand mine up leant against a cup or similar after lighting and leave for a couple of minutes, if hot and working, place in the sock and you're done or steps 1-4 again. Putting it in the sock slows down the reaction (restricts the amount of oxygen getting to the catalytic head) removing or partially removing from the sock and it heats up, want it to run hotter don't pull the sock cords closed and you're not restricting the airflow as much (or make some air holes, but that is kind of permanent if it then gets too hot in your pocket) . Over filling: mop and excess fuel with a tissue or toilet paper, remove the catalytic head, make a pad out of the tissue paper and dry place against the wadding on the top of the warmer body, tip over and absorb any of the excess liquid. place the Head on again, and try lighting as above. If the element catches fire you've overfilled and fuel has got on the catalyst fibre, blow the flame out and wait until the fuel has evaporated. That's done when it doesn't catch fire again! Finally, yes really finally if it won't light after steps 1-4 , do the prep 1-4 again, then with your lighter flame: warm the element 1-2 seconds, till you see a glow briefly on the element material. Do it for too long and too much and you will burn off the catalyst. If you look a the head from the side it appears as 3 areas apply the flame to each of those areas for 1-2 secs until it briefly glows, then do the other side. Just remember too much flame for too long and you are purchasing a new head. Effectively what Paul is showing is the warming of the cap and shoulder that will get the burner working, however I found that that there comes a time after 9-10 lightings when that way won't work and you need another way. The instructions on the Whitby warmer are too brief and just didn't work for me, and in at least one part are incorrect. They say remove the rubber bung out to refill, that's not necessary as the bung is split at the bottom, just place the blue watering can nozzle into the bung about 1cm until the small ring on plastic nozzle touches the bung, fill to to the desired line and tip until empty. The above was my way. You may have a better way. Just reply, I'd certainly be interested. Cheers Graham

You don't need to remove the rubber bung... It has a slit in the bottom to hold the filler.

Good Hi-Def video. Brilliant clear Instructions & tutorial. On the base of this, I'm getting one. Cheers.

Some people say war the unit with a flame to get petrol vaporising. Be careful filling it or else you will light any spilt fluid. It will also get soot marks on. Mine wiped off. I think it’s a good idea though.

Bruh u set that shit on fire, its not a lighter, you just need to heat up the catalyst to reach activation temperature then it will self sustain the exothermic reaction.

Make sure you push the nozzle well onto the rubber valve or you will spill some fluid. Not sure about putting fuel on the catalyst burner. I’ve done it but it’s apparently damaging to the platinum inside it.. if you use it a lot you will get better at lighting it so it won’t be a problem and if you don’t it will last a long time. Either way as long as you get it lit happy fishing/camping or whatever else you need warm hands for.

I think my doctor needs one.

For all you bashing him for using lighter fluid on the burner, that is how you light a Whitby. He just used too much. It only takes a drop. The burner also will fit a zippo and vise versa. Even lighting them that way, their burner lasts longer than the current zippo and gives off more heat. It is very similar, if not the same as the older zippo that following zippo instructions, people couldn't get lit.

The title of the video should be ''How not to fill a Whitby Hand Warmer''

Yeah the instructions do say to remove rubber bung , obviously a misprint, just push swan knock filler through plug and remove and light , no need to do all the other rubbish that’s shown in video , it’s not a zippo so no need to remove catalyst and muck on dribbling fuel over felt at top etc

Seriously Zippo? You need a Zippo to turn it on?

PLEASE do not light the catalyst on fire. Such a fine device; pity to shorten it's life span in such a manner. It only needs to be HEATED - optimally with a hot coil of wire, but a flame will do.

Dont need to remove the rubber hole piece or the burner !

Obviously. It needs oxygen. So if the top is on and in a bag. How does it not go out.

I really want one but i can't bring myself to have something lit full of fuel in my pocket, feel like i'd set on fire haha

Never oil the catalytic burner. This permanently reduces catalytic burner performance and shortens life. There are many incorrect ways to use the zippo hand warmer on KZfaq. All false demonstrations come from not understanding how hand warmers with catalytic burners work.