Thanks so much for demonstrating this method. I did a smaller test last week and a larger one today, with each one working great. I'm so glad I didn't punch holes in the barrel bottom as I earlier planned. So many other methods I reviewed were unnecessarily complicated or at least time consuming.

Thank you so much for posting this video! 🙏🙏🙏 A 3 hour burn of last year's tree tops and smaller limbs yielded 4 50lb corn bags with biochar. I can't see any other method that could compete with this one. The ground cone method might, but it it would take a toll on your back when removing it. Much love from Cincinnat!

I like your idea. So simple and usable amounts of char. I’ve been making my char in an abandoned Weber grill for years! I was able to acquire a Street manhole cover for a grate so as not to burn through the lightweight Weber grate. With the demise of our ash trees free wood is abundant. Enjoy a patio fire and when it’s bedtime put the lid on it and smother it.

I've searching for alternative method of making biochar, without the conepit method and other, this is very smart idea!

I was going to make a retort but this just looks simpler and easier

This is a perfect, cost effective means of charcoal production that will clear my property of excess wood…thanks for posting!

Super simple, I like it. Nothing wrong with this method in the short term, especially if you add other amendments (like urea) to keep the pH balance. If you don't add amendments, you might end up with some wood ash in this process which will alkalize your soil if you're going to use this as biochar. Wood ash is high in water-soluble calcium, potassium, and phosphorous so adding this type of charcoal to your soil too many times would eventually result in a higher pH soil at some point...which is actually okay for brassicas like broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussell sprouts. Pure charcoal made in a closed system, locks in those alkali nutrients in the carbon matrix (meaning they are not water-soluble), and in the case of biochar, it is a much slower time-release since the bacteria and fungus only release these alkaline nutrients when the plants ask for them through the sugars they push down into the soil.

Greetings...direct and a no nonsense approach. I'm wanting to stay away from using water as a process of cooling down (the porous state and Fluoride in the tap water defeats the Purpose). A great way of producing Char. Thank You.

thank you so much this has helped heaps

Yay. First!!!! You folks are awesome!!!! What a great idea!!

Well, there is nothing wrong with this approach, flame cap is simple, and it works. BUT, there are advantages to instead using a pit (better insulation, no need to buy a barrel) or a larger metal enclosure like Kelpie's ring of fire (thicker steel lasts a lot longer, normal barrels wear out quickly from the heat stress). Both alternatives also scale up easily to a lot more char than a barrel can make.

KISS- KEEP IT SIMPLE... I like it!

Thank you for posting

Thank you

Would this work with hardwood shavings from my wood workshop I produce 100 gallons of primarily Oak and Beech off cuts and shavings

This is so smart

What's the biggest peices you can use? I want to make lump charcoal, so as big as i can with the wood splits

Can you give a little more detail on the ledge?

Wow. Just curious if the bottom layer of char is really protected by the flames. Interesting and def worth a try.

Great Idea! But isn't it better to turn of the fire with water? I thought this was necessary for making biochar

Still wastes all that heat, though. I like my in-stove retort, where all the gases are burned, there's no smoke, and the heat goes into my home, cooking and bathwater. AND I get char at the end of every cycle. Not as much as this method, but more efficient and cleaner.

How much time is involved with this method to get you barrel completed?

Dude.... WTH have i been doing!! I tried with a barrel straight up but it wasn't working... Now I'm doing this as soon as i get home!

I bought one of your mini wood burning forges. I'm getting interested in doing some forge welding now, and understand that Cory often uses charcoal for that, besides the wood for regular forging. Seems like the forge would need probably 1" cubic or larger pieces. I was wondering if this very simple barrel method tends to produce a lot more very small charcoal and fines compared to some of the other methods. Do you use this method yourself for your forge, and how do you feel it works for that purpose? Thanks!

Nice.

Would method work with shredded carboard/paper?

How long does it take you to get a full barrel?

❤

Have you tried it with larger split logs?

Nice! Will you be selling these?