(Evolves.) Exactly, almost like it's organic metal.

Looks good from my house.i suggest you get some anchor lube.

The peanuts with threads all the way through allow you to clamp a tee nut in place by driving the tip of the stud into the bottom of the tee nut slot. This lets you use the stud for location as well as clamping. The stud will inevitably raise a burr in the bottom of the t-nut slot. This gully accommodates that. And helps the peanuts slide in and out with less friction and galling on burrs.

The disadvantage of screws going through the T nuts is that it allows upward pressure on the T slot and can cause breakout. T nuts should ideally clamp the T slot for grip.

Hi Chris, totally agree with the breaking out of tee slot shoulders. And jack force of any stud or bolt is a good way to do it. But upwards force is just that. Regardless of where that force comes from. Excluding a direct clamp of a through hole fixture ( like a mounting hole in a vise) there is danger of levering off one or both shoulders. Especially near the end of a slot . The classic strap clamp and step block setup will not support the table above the t-slot. And given this is a tall setup and may not be plumb it can asymmetrically load the shoulders. Making things even worse. The important thing is to never overload a single t slot/not combination. Often I will relieve the t-nut flange near the center ever so slightly, with a stroke of a file, in order to make sure the upward Force is concentrated at the outer edge of the t slot, helping to reduce the moment load on the casting. In situations where I want the stud to remain fixed either for positioning or convenience, tend to be production jobs. And even having a spring on the stud to lift the strap clamp usually is not enough to hold it in place as you clear the chips and load the next piece. When I make my own t-nuts I tend to make them as long as will fit in the access slot on a Bridgeport table with at least two tapped holes. The longer length helps distribute the upward Force, and the second tapped hole allows you to use a set screw to affix its location. I suppose I should make one of those tapped holes incomplete to prevent jacking on the t slot floor. I like using the studs for locating, because they're round shape is very tolerant of chips, and don't affect the piece's location. They are also inherently aligned along the x-axis of the machine. Another trick,to keep the clamping set up repeatable and from becoming a floppy mess between parts is with my step blocks. Nicer ones with the holes through them can be a fixed to the table with a strap clamp. But on the cheaper ones I tap some 3/8 -16 holes into the sides near the bottom in order to insert a bolt and strap clamp that bolt down to the table. If it's 9/32" up from the bottom that's half of the 9/16" head of a hex head cap screw. The flat of the hex bolt makes a nice foot on the table of the mill. Fixing to step block makes the angle of the strap clamp much more repeatable and less likely to be hit in milling operations. Good point though about jacking pressure. Thanks for the reply, cheers Adrian

Bro. Go back to uploading. You know a ton. I subbed.

Hey Wes, good to see you buddy👍. It's amazing what some of these pass as good parts. The slots on this table were just about useless. They were so rough that nothing fit even half way decent. They went through the trouble of machining the slots on the foot / base but not the main work table 😄. I have seen cheaper machines with as cast slots but I was surprised to see it on a drill of this class. I bet you have seen all kinds of this type of crap with your machine history. Thanks for stopping by buddy.

Thanks for this bit of lore. It might help me with a bit of dickering room if I spot such a flaw on a used machine I would like to have.

Those hard spots of "chill" contain ferric carbide, which is only a tad softer than tungsten carbide. Traditionally, chilled, AKA "white", iron was ground, not machined. A near diamond hard CBN cutter should be OK, but said cutter's cost is HIDEOUS.

She has turned out to be a fantastic pup. She is smart and pretty well behaved . Why anyone would have dropped her has me puzzled.

@@SteveSummers Probably relates to the message on the hoodie you were wearing in this video...

@@SteveSummers Totally agree. The previous owner is either heart broken or doesn’t deserve animals. It’s obvious she loves you!

Thanks for stopping by the channel 👍

I doubt that. If they pulled too soon they would still be hot. As long as they’re cool, it’s fine. You would have to chill the it]ron quickly to have hardness form, and then it would a fairly even surface hardening not random spotting. That happens because of an uneven mix. Why they didn’t get machined is anyone/s gues. A screwup most likely. It happens everywhere, just as they left sand from the mold.

Might be more cast sand that came loose..but yeah..it looks interesting? 🤔🤨

1ginner, you and Steve Summers (who immediately got my subscription after a few minutes of watching) both pleasantly reminded me of the vertical mill I had charge of when I was a shop technician at Wentworth Institute in Boston, Mass. When it arrived in our shop as a bone from the engineering school program, the t-slots had been so badly mangled from improvised hold-down nuts and bolts that we could hardly pass a proper t-nut through. No t-slot tooling, but I cleaned them up with a straight endmill that I ran down the slot at a 1 degree lean of the head, so that I would not alter dimension of the top of the slot. Worked well, and I was quite satisfied with myself for such a minor accomplishment.

Thanks for watching bud. Cora is a great pup. We are glad to have her