Why do Lapel Size and Shape Matter?

Рет қаралды 17,659

2 жыл бұрын

Okey explains how the right lapel size, gorge height and line give your jacket proportion and balance, presenting your natural shape and stature in their best light. Extending, raising or widening the lapels of your jacket will make you look taller or shorter, wider or slimmer and can enhance the overall fit and look of your clothes. The AskOkey jacket is designed with a relatively high gorge, standard 3.5 inch notch lapels. AskOkey's tailors will cut the lapels to best suit the measurements that you send us to ensure perfect proportions and fit.
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Пікірлер: 95

@goofyfandango1312 2 жыл бұрын

This is a unbelievably underrated channel.

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Goofy. As Abraham Lincoln once said … “I shall prepare myself. And perhaps my chance will come”. We do what we do with excellence. Let success meet us where it will. Till then, we continue to give you our best. PROFF

@W2epeacedog 2 ай бұрын

I agree

@spaghettiking7312 8 ай бұрын

Wow. Real trousers, real lapels, a real jacket length. Nice to see, my friend.

@AmusedKelpie-tc9du 6 ай бұрын

You saved me from getting rid of a well loved navy blazer because the lapel width is 3.75 in.,not the standard 3.5in. 😊...

@AskOkeyInc 2 ай бұрын

With great pleasure sir 😁 Welcome aboard

@ruliadultra 2 жыл бұрын

Excellent lesson once again. You dropped several gems of information, not only about classic lapel dimensions, gorge height, but also about the correct way to put on a jacket. Your trousers are truly immaculate and I was nearly drooling over the beautiful trouser break. Well done to you and the team sir.

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Mighty Kam. Are you already following on Instagram? @askokeyig

@ruliadultra 2 жыл бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc Not yet because I do not have an Instagram account but I intend to create a Discord account and will join the server once I do.

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

@@ruliadultra Fantastic! Please do. The link is in the description box below the videos. PROFF

@Cliffhanger437 4 ай бұрын

Okey, your knowledge about tailoring and clothing is simply excellent, thorough, and go to the micro details. As for your prices, i simply don't afford it.

@AskOkeyInc 4 ай бұрын

Understood Cliff. Our prices reflect the quality and effort that go into the product sir

@cap4life1 5 ай бұрын

These videos could benefit from more visual inserts and diagrams. The info is incredible!! But KZfaq is a visual medium so the explanations should not just be verbal but visual with lots of different moving images and camera angles.

@AskOkeyInc 5 ай бұрын

Duly noted 😁 This was one of our very early productions. More recent videos contain more visuals

@scottmarkey1481 2 жыл бұрын

This is a topic rarely talked about, but the "Proff" once again giving a masterclass on style! Best knowledge as well as the best dressed man on the planet. (AskOkey) clothes are a sartorial dream!🙏

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Scottie! You know how we do. Watch this SPACE! PROFF

@ravishingrick13 2 жыл бұрын

Great episode, I learned a lot today. This channel is for me hands down the best resource on classical menswear on YT. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Ravishing Rick! Means a lot to us. We put a lot of love into what we do at AskOkey. Pls also follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and on Tik-Tok @askokey PROFF

@raheemmukhepera3697 2 ай бұрын

This is excellent…I’m in my 40’s and I wished that these things were taught to me. Never too late to learn …and now I can pass these timeless lessons onto my son.

@AskOkeyInc 2 ай бұрын

ABSOLUTELY Raheem 💯 Better late than never 😁

@MrMarcoberti98 2 жыл бұрын

Now that's real expertise. Very insightful and inspiring, thanks Proff!

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Grazi Marco Caro. I know you’re always paying attention in class (on the blog) 😁. Stay tuned for more premium content from AskOkey. PROFF

@johnstephenandrew 2 жыл бұрын

Fabulous informative videos Okey. Masterclass in sartorial dressing in every episode, your content inspires, motivates and gives us knowledgeable direction in our menswear journey.

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you John. Pleas don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig

@KonstantinGanchin 9 ай бұрын

Best lapel video I have watched! Thank you!

@AskOkeyInc 9 ай бұрын

THANK YOU Konstantin 🙌🏾 Please take some time to view our entire video library here on KZfaq. You’ll be equally enlightened. Welcome to AskOkey Sir! PROFF

@prancingkash 7 ай бұрын

Thank you so much for this informative video. Love it.

@AskOkeyInc 7 ай бұрын

With great pleasure Kashish 🙌🏾 PROFF

@freddecker2407 9 ай бұрын

Thank you for an informative video!

@AskOkeyInc 9 ай бұрын

Thank you dear Fred 🙌🏾 Welcome to AskOkey sir 😁 PROFF

@maxwellgarrison2983 13 күн бұрын

I think something important to consider for very tall gentleman is the the three-button coat. I think I first see the style in the 1910s where it seems to work quite elegantly, and today, to wear a three-button is a huge faux-pas. I think the three-button coat worked so well in the 1910, because the ideal man was a tall lanky 5'10", for the time (anyone who has dealt with garments from the era will immediately see how small they were). Whereas today, that is average. When most men are around that height, the short lapels and high stance of the three-button look off relative to everyone else. But I think, if my clients are over 6'2", depending on their build, it is some I would consider having made in their suits.

@AskOkeyInc 13 күн бұрын

I agree Max 💯 I always recommend a TRUE 3-BUTTON to my tall customers Thank you for pointing this out 🔥

@maxwellgarrison2983 12 күн бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc Of course, Prof! And with confidence. We are going to bring it back! Cheers from America, where some of my clients are so interested in the real and incredibly elegant tradition of suiting!

@AskOkeyInc 11 күн бұрын

@@maxwellgarrison2983 Well said Max 🔥

@Suzyfromtheblock 8 ай бұрын

The nice thing about the prof, he does respond to comments, he’s out there 😃

@tatendaphiri5007 2 жыл бұрын

Another great episode, thank you for your continued preaching of the gospel of classic menswear

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you lil’ bro! See you on the blog. Also follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and on Tik-Tok @askokey PROFF

@korneliuspatterson399 2 жыл бұрын

Amazing knowledge

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Kornelius. And welcome to AskOkey. Please be sure to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig. PROFF

@rsevp179 2 ай бұрын

Great Video!

@AskOkeyInc 2 ай бұрын

Thank you EVP Welcome aboard 😁

@TheLeadEagle 2 жыл бұрын

Excellent Professor! Major

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Major! We miss you on the blog. PROFF

@gabe6498 4 ай бұрын

This man is a pure treasure.

@davidjarnot8548 6 ай бұрын

Hi Okey. I really enjoy watching your channel and am always fascinated by how much I learn. You're also probably the best dressed guy I've ever seen. But I think in this episode you use the word 'Vertically Challeged' to describe a short person. Now if you're short and are offended at the word short or small you really are going to struggle in life. I personally don't mind it at all. However when I hear you say vertically Challeged' I did find it quite offensive (I could write for an hour about why it's offensive but I appreciate both of our time) 😂. I Googled the phrase and this is the response ... "According to the Diversity Style Guide, remarks that include “midget” or “vertically challenged” are highly offensive and outdated, reminiscent of “the height of the 'freak show' era” when people with dwarfism were displayed for public amusement." So I would really thank you to try not to use the phrase moving forward as I still really enjoy your channel and plan on continuing to watch ever episode. Thanks Okey. Vertically absent would be fine I think if you want to expand your vocabulary.

@mohammedalshehhi3868 Жыл бұрын

Thanks ❤

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

Most welcome Mohammed. And welcome to AskOkey sir. Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

@drumminnerd1 Ай бұрын

This guy saved my wedding.

@AskOkeyInc Ай бұрын

I’m delighted Joseph 🔥

@TeslaRules1856 3 ай бұрын

In understand the half rule now, thank you. Is there a general jacket size rule to match lapel size. That something that says jackets 32-38 2.75 - 3", 42-48 3.25- 3.5", 50+ 4" ?

@samyguerroury8980 Жыл бұрын

20:46 I don't think that, but I like your honesty. Thanks for the video

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

Please clarify Sam. You don’t like skinny lapels or you like them? 😁 Thank you for chiming in and welcome to AskOkey. Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

@samyguerroury8980 Жыл бұрын

@AskOkey I thought that the size of the lapels depended on the morphology of the person. So if a person is like me (1m68cm And 54-55 kilograms, athletic), the lapels shouldn't be wide and low. I thought that it can accentuate the unflattering characteristics of the body. Thanks anyway, your videos give me good inspiration.

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

@@samyguerroury8980 No one size fits all Sammy. If you’re 168cm and athletic, you should wear a slightly higher than average (Classic) gorge. However, lapel size IMHO should still be close to classic (3.5”). Maybe 3.25” if you’re slight of build. Welcome to AskOkey. PROFF

@Solis_Occasum 2 жыл бұрын

The tie looks great. Where is it from sir ?

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you James. From EG CAPPELLI of Napoli. Pls follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and Tik-Tok @askokey. PROFF

@romisunga1 3 ай бұрын

Was there a reason why you turn your coat inside out before placing it on the table?

@shalli161 9 ай бұрын

Came across this channel just today, and I am hooked. I need this kind of detailed knowledge on tailoring. I do have a question though: to give the illusion of wide shoulders/chest, do you recommend wider than 3.5 inches of lapel?

@AskOkeyInc 9 ай бұрын

You’re ABSOLUTELY WELCOME Muhammad. Illusion of width at the shoulder is derived from a combination of elements on the coat. 1. The shoulders have to be cut with an “EXTENSION” beyond the natural shoulder line. 2. The Chest MUST be BUILT UP with basting and a DRAPED CHEST 3. The above TWO allow for SUPPRESSION in the waist which make the shoulders appear even LARGER and STRONGER It is this combination of THREE that allows us to CARVE a STRONG looking figure for even those not naturally gifted with STRONG SHOULDERS Welcome to AskOkey Muhammad 😁 PROFF

@toobalkain Жыл бұрын

only this jacket doesn't go half way to the shoulder seam, it's probably closer to 80%. The jacket worn in this video also looks a fair bit too long even for British tailoring, it7s supposed to cover the seat, not extend half way to the knees. Gorgeous shirt collar, what shirt is it?

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

Thank you sir! Jacket length is not just arbitrary. It has to do with the overall silhouette. Our own “AskOkey House Cut” have longer jackets than this. Why? Because they are worn with FULL CUT TROUSERS. Covering your ass is just half the story. There’s also BALANCE & HARMONY with the trousers. PROFF

@toobalkain Жыл бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc Thank you. I know it's not arbitrary, I'm not disputing your expertise, I'm just not sure this silhouette is the best possible one, to my eye it makes you look shorter and while it might be OK on your 6 foot relatively athletic frame, such a long jacket probably wouldn't flatter a shorter, more rotund gentleman. There's a fashion towards shorter jackets these days but I'm not talking Thom Browne, just regular Italian length as opposed to a bit longer British style. Similar with the trousers, to my eye a break on such a wide cut makes the look appear a little dated. You seem to be going for a bit of a vintagey style but again, I'm not convinced it will work for the physique of the average man in his 40s or 50s these days.

@rogerr.8507 Жыл бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc I do like those trousers though!

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

@@rogerr.8507 Thank you Roger. Welcome to AskOkey. Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

@abdullahiqbal7685 Жыл бұрын

You didn’t address the basic question. How does width affect visual perception? You talked about effects of length and gorge height. But not the width

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

Good evening Abdullah. I believe I’ve previously address this issue in several videos in our IG archives The width of the lapel should be AT, or just a bit over half way across the chest. This yields the best proportions in my own experience. Are you following us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

@kelvinadelakun2232 Жыл бұрын

Hello okey… I noticed you cut the tip of your measuring tape.. any reason for that?

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

No sir. Most likely an old measuring tape 😁. Welcome to AskOkey! PROFF

@nicolasescobar398 Жыл бұрын

I have one question that’s intrigues me . How much of the square pocket should the lapel cover ? It’s any rule ? Obviously not cover all the pocket but maybe 3/4 it’s bad?

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

That’s a good question Nicolas. In my opinion, there is no rule per se. It all depends on the shape of the lapel. But the aim is to have a lapel not so large that it covers the pocket altogether. After all you want your pocket square showing a little bit. Welcome to AskOkey. Are you following us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

@nicolasescobar398 Жыл бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc thanks for the answer ! And of course I’m following you on Instagram

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

@@nicolasescobar398 Thank you Nicolas 🙏🏾

@AM-ss4uq Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the tips. Am i trippin or one side of your coat is slightly longer, no?

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

You may have a point. I have a dropped left shoulder. This is an old jacket from my Neapolitan tailor. I believe he didn’t correct for my dropped shoulder hence the imbalance. Have a look at our own “In House” more recent cuts at www.AskOkey.com/shop Or Instagram @askokeyig Thank you. PROFF

@AM-ss4uq Жыл бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc my bad! Jacket looks amazing nevertheless. Thanks for the good tips! Cant wait to apply them to my next bespoke suit!

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

@@AM-ss4uq Welcome sir! PROFF

@jaschaprincipe4519 5 ай бұрын

Should the width of a peak lapel of a single breasted jacket still be the same as a notch lapel? Or should it be a tad bit wider?

@AskOkeyInc 5 ай бұрын

NO Jascha! ALWAYS WIDER 💯 A peak lapel whether on SB or DB should be wider than a notch lapel

@jaschaprincipe4519 5 ай бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc Would a width of a 4.5 - 4.75 inches be a good width then for a peak lapel SB?

@AskOkeyInc 5 ай бұрын

@@jaschaprincipe4519 I’d say so .. 🔥

@amitlahiri2190 Жыл бұрын

😍😍😍😍

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

Thank you Amit! Keep on going 😁Lots of great content on here … PROFF

@bryanb8868 Ай бұрын

imo you look way better in that Napolitan jacket than you do in your own more oversized garments

@MTMT-wm2dq 3 ай бұрын

Can I know what is your height and weight ?

@AskOkeyInc 2 ай бұрын

6’ 1” 88kg

@kungenftww 7 ай бұрын

Vertically challenged haha I always like funny ppl that dnt realize it😂😂

@TheRacso2552 2 жыл бұрын

I mean, maybe it has a great personality?

@AskOkeyInc 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Hepp, can you elaborate? What are you referring to in your comment? re: Personality. The lapel size? It will guide me in answering your question. PROFF

@rogerr.8507 Жыл бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc he is comparing "...does size and shape matter?" with a fat chick or unsightly woman with a redeeming personality... So its a joke.

@AskOkeyInc Жыл бұрын

@@rogerr.8507 I’m just gonna take the 5th on that one Roger 😅 Welcome once again to AskOkey. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig PROFF

@JuanHugeJanus 10 ай бұрын

To be honest... your lapel on your blazer is too big for you and the shoulder width is too wide to

@AskOkeyInc 10 ай бұрын

Point well taken Juan. Lapels are on the larger side (Neapolitan) but not off. A matter of preference. Shoulders seem fine to me. Welcome to AskOkey Sir! PROFF

@JuanHugeJanus 10 ай бұрын

@@AskOkeyInc If you have wide shoulders, as you say you have nothing beats an unconstructed blazer so we really can see your masculine (sexy) contour. Your lapels covers 3/4 of your shoulder width and then they come very close to a caricature ;-). Just 1 cm is very much

@AskOkeyInc 10 ай бұрын

@@JuanHugeJanus Noted Sir 😁