Check your flue too. Make sure you've got it cleaned out well.

instaBlaster...

How.

Maybe that's all she had available?

Funny. I didn't pick that up. Likely from the fireplace shop

exactly my first thought haha jumped down first comment was the same hahahhahaa🤣😅😅🤣

Glad it helped!

dallast21 thanks

My mason burns his wood stove the exact way you said not to. He has a burner in the fireplace and the smoke goes right up. When he's not using the burner he closed the fireplace damper. Don't know how he does it, but no smoke in his house. I've been there and watched it burn.

@@beebob1279 I’m not sure I understand you comment . I’m not telling anyone how to “exactly” burn their fireplace. I’m just talking about flue volume and chimney heights

@@MichaelSmith-jr3vy I thought you were talking about flue volume matching up with the firebox of a fire place. And the do have to match correctly. My comment was that my mason never put the pipe flue up the chimney to match his wood burning firebox. That's all. And for him, it worked.

@@beebob1279 I understand now . I was talking more for venting on appliances like stoves and inserts .

Absolutely.

But what if you our chimney doesn't go out of the roof, but through a wall o window opening?

Try building an upside down fire in the wood burner. Logs on the bottom. Medium wood next. Small sticks and starter scrap wood on top with newspaper. Often the bottom up method doesn't heat the flue fast enough and so you get that smoke going back at you. The top down method gets the heat up fast also with less smoke. Problem solved. The other benefit is you don't have to babysit the burner adding wood as it builds up. It's already in there. The coals from above pre heat the lower wood and the burns beautifully

Hahaha, same here 🤣

backinthelabdetroit have started leaving the door to stove open a bit longer to allow fire to get hotter before shutting it down some. I may need to add another section of pipe above roof. Thanks.

I would go no less than a 45 degree angle on your flue pipe

I have the same problem going to fit an Anti Down Draught Stainless Steel Flueu Cowl and see if that helps. did you fix the smoke?

Open the door very slowly, crack the door about an inch when opening, hold it open about 10 seconds or so.. then fully open the door, again very slowly

The only thing that helped was removing the catalytic combuster.

Yes, flue pipe should always be angles upwards towards the chimney attachment. Think smoke as water, water will stay stagnant in a horizontal run but when you angle it, it flows

I think she is referring to the inside of the stove, but this would also depend on the material your stove is made of. I know my cast iron stove is usually colder on the inside than the outside when it is a cold or windy day and I've skipped a fire. Haven't tried to open the doors for a while prior to lighting a fire, not sure if it would work. Typically though, I'd leave the doors ajar anyway when lighting the fire to create a better draft. I only fully shut them at 300 degrees, seems to work well slowly shutting the door as it warms up.

The trick in starting the stove is to push the cold air up. To do this you need a hard fast fire to start. Try building an upside down fire in the wood burner. This is done in Europe. Logs on the bottom. Medium wood next. Small sticks and starter scrap wood on top with newspaper. Often the bottom up method doesn't heat the flue fast enough and so you get that smoke going back at you. The top down method gets the heat up fast also with less smoke. Problem solved. The other benefit is you don't have to babysit the burner adding wood as it builds up. It's already in there. The coals from above pre heat the lower wood and the burns beautifully

@@beebob1279 That is such great advice Bob - Thanks for taking the time to reply - Chris

@@altomar718 Chris, I hope this works for you.

I’ve experienced burning wood over a lifetime and she’s got it wrong, sitting there behind her gas fire! When a stove is first lit from cold it will always smokes until temperature rises to optimum for efficient combustion. Smoke is unburnt particles rising up with the heat because when first lighting the stove there is no residual heat so like a car needs to heat up. Always maximise chimney height and start off with very dry light kindling Which will quickly start the essential heating then add heavier timbers as you get to optimum. Always have the stove vents fully open for about five ten minutes to build up heat and warm up and clear the flue/chimney, another essential consideration. Running a stove ‘cool’ leads to problems with excessive tar build up and deposits sticking to the chimney liner. Tar or creosote build up can makes the dwelling smell horrible and potentially catch fire too.so flues and chimneys must have some form of insulation to maintain heat on this side of the stove, a cold chimney will smoke and stink because of incomplete combustion and condensation. Properly dried wood is absolutely essential and produce no smoke in a well balanced installation.

The most common cause for a stove to smoke when opening the stove door is temperature. If it is above 40° outside smoke will come in. When it's below 35 outside and there's a fresh air supply ie a window open an inch air will rush in causing the fire to burn faster. (Dwyer Chimney Service)

@@dougdwyer1074 Thank you, Doug.

@@dougdwyer1074 Hello Dwyer Chimney Service....maybe you can help. I tried out my new woodstove for the first time on an unusually warm day for this time of year. I'm sure it was above 40 degrees. I wanted to "cure" the finish when I could open the doors and windows. There was definitely a drafting problem regardless of doors or windows being open or closed. Maybe that will change when the weather gets colder. However, the fire is totally out now for two days and ever since, the house smells like there is a smoky fire going. Strong smell of smoke wafting throughout the house with no fire. Box is cold. No embers....totally out. Smell is so strong that I have a headache and had to use an old puff inhaler that I haven't had to use in a long time. It is 48 degrees outside now and 67 degrees inside. The temps have been like this on average for the last couple of days. I would like to start a fire but I'm afraid to. I don't want this smell to get worse. This can't be normal. I heated with wood for 20 years at my old house and never had a strong, fresh smoke smell on the off seasons. Please help. The chimney was newly installed and new stove connected about a week ago. Thanks.

Mark Jenkins That sounds like a great idea - get the process going quicker!

Technically you're N0T "pushing out" anything with your heat gun blower. Instead you're heating the cooler air inside the flue allowing it to rise itself out the way a hot air balloon might do.

@@rudygeorgiamulesandcountry1594 same thing

@@markjenkins905mark - that guy just had to get in there didn’t he? Lol

the flue and the fire box have to be in sync. IF you're burning the fireplace they should be correct. If you've installed a wood burner but didn't add a flue to match, then you'll have issues.

Thank you.

@Alan Sach, we chuckled at your comment 'if the wood isn't dry enough, freeze'! Now do you state that because burning moist wood is a DISGUSTING smell or for another reason? As someone who can't stand the stink of damp wood burning, I'm curious te know.....

@@lilyloveslife2737 Primarily because wet wood tends to create more creosote, and doesn't provide as much heat. But, hey, you burn what you have, or freeze!

way to perv some good info

Omfg

Believe it or not there are meters that measure the moisture content of firewood. But, I've never used one. My firewood is seasoned for a minimum of 1 1/2 years before burning. It's covered on the top only so that air can move through. Also, if you split your wood and then stack it, the wood will dry faster. Make sure you don't try to pack the wood tight, so leave air gaps to help speed up the drying.

@@beebob1279 Thanks for this great info!

@@The_Old_Wolf Hope I was helpful

Try building an upside down fire in the wood burner. Logs on the bottom. Medium wood next. Small sticks and starter scrap wood on top with newspaper. Often the bottom up method doesn't heat the flue fast enough and so you get that smoke going back at you. The top down method gets the heat up fast also with less smoke. Problem solved. The other benefit is you don't have to babysit the burner adding wood as it builds up. It's already in there. The coals from above pre heat the lower wood and the burns beautifully

This is my issue. Have you fixed yours? How did you fix it?

@@ikidhauler60 fixed it with taking it to the dump

Waylon Gilkeson funny

@@RedDeathXVI too bad. Sometimes they're an easy fix.

I just use the chrome tape thats used for ducts...works good on mine anyways

There are many possibilities that could be causing the draft. in most cases your chimney itself is to blame, or the temp within the stove., in some cases your location Have you checked your cap to insure nothing is blocking the draft? Are you opening or closing your damper prior to opening the door?

Not necessarily. The problem lies with people not knowing or refusing to use them correctly. My wood burning stove gives off very little smoke if any at all (most of the time except for start ups). I know my stove. I understand it's draft. I make sure my fire wood is dry. That's one of the key things.