Thanks for the great feedback! 👍👍

Great Service, good information

Maybe try getting it to 10 ppm on your service day and see how it does. As things cool off you will of course need less.

Yeah, for sure. I hate that. 👍

No need to get the pH in range.

Yes, that is fine. Add more even if needed.

Thanks again David.

Probably 2 gallons each week of 12.5% liquid chlorine staggered every 3-4 days.

Tri-chlor tablets won't raise the calcium levels.

@@SPL Thanks!!

Try adding borax instead to raise it.

Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL it looks like the soda ash was just sitting at the bottom of the pool because i brushed it today. Noticed white like power stuff sitting down and after brushing it i tested for ph and got 7.4

yes it is.

If it returns you may want to add a small amount of algaecide. I prefer Sodium Bromide - sold under YellowTrine, YellowTreat and other names.

@@SPL Okay. Thanks.

Use this app for dosage. I guess that is the price you pay to live in paradise! 🏝😜 - www.poolcalculator.com/

Sounds about right.

No. I would purchase the Liquid Pool Conditioner and add it directly to the pool.

I very hard water here in Texas, could I use just the Liquid Chlorine Injection system by Pentair and abandon the Tablet erosion system? And thanks for the earlier response.

Sometimes depending on how large the pool is and other factors.

3 hours

Yes, gas is very effective! 👍

Yes.

Return them

Why

They will lower the pH and also could cause staining.

I have a 18 foot pool should I keep the pump off month that when my pool company can fix it

@@SPL Thank you for responding

It doesn't last as long since there is no conditioner build into it like the tablet.

@@SPL But if your pool has the right amount of conditioner in it, it will protect the liquid chlorine just fine.

Let's put it this way. I add liquid each day as my chlorine dosing method. It's the middle of summer right now, so I'm having to increase FC 3 ppm to stay in range if the day that just passed was a sunny day. My CYA is 50. I have no organics breaking down chlorine, so this means that 3 ppm is how much the sun is breaking down chlorine each day in my pool (this varies by pool due to different levels of sunlight and where you reside on earth). If I, instead chose another source of chlorine like trichlor to raise FC by 3 ppm, it would burn off equally; at least in the short term. Just because a particular chlorine source happens to be stabilized (trichlor or dichlor) versus another chlorine source that is not stabilized (liquid, cal hypo or chlorine made by a saltwater generator), that fact has very little to do with how long an FC level will hold in a pool before being broken down by the sun comparing dose-to-dose of each type. While it is true that stabilized chlorine does add to your cya level in your pool, and higher cya levels help hold FC longer, and each dose or tablet you add will add to that total level of cya over time (especially dichlor); it's actually the total cya level in a pool that matters regarding sun burn off; not the fact that the actual product contains some cya in is formulation. Example: If I added 3 ppm of dichlor to a pool that the sun was breaking down 3 ppm per day on sunny days, that dose would raise cya by approximately 2.7 (3X.90). For this example, we'll round up to 3. Adding 3 to the cya level will have minimal effect on how long the FC will hold on that single dose, because it's such a small increase in the cya level. Conversely, if I switched to an non stabilized chlorine source like liquid chlorine in that same pool on the very next day, and the weather was exactly the same with the cya exactly the same, the chlorine should hold equally for liquid as it did for dichlor. If, however, instead of switching to liquid, I decided to keep dosing 3 ppm for ten days in a row with dichlor, in that situation, I would raise my cya by approximately 27 (30X.9), and so in this way of dosing stabilized chlorine over time, I am making the pool hold chlorine longer, but less effective, because a lesser amount is active with higher cya; but in order for this to be true that stabilized chlorine holds FC longer than non stabilized chlorine, you have to consider dosing over a period of time. The packaging on the stabilized chlorine is a big lie, because it will try to tell us that it lasts longer than other chlorine sources, and that is NOT true in the short term. Although it's not taught here, but somewhere else, you can actually set your cya at the beginning of the season and keep it constant by always avoiding stabilized chlorine. You then add enough liquid each day or each couple of days to keep your FC above 7.5% of your cya level at all times; thereby never allowing FC to drop too low for algae to ever have a chance. This method requires no tablets; only liquid, but you must first know and record your cya level; use the online, pool math calculator, target FC each day 2-4 ppm above that 7.5% level. This method allows subscribers not to have to routinely shock pools. No need for algaecides, since chlorine is superior to algaecide as an algae preventer; and no need for phosphate removers in most cases, because this method keeps a chemically-correct level of FC at all times for proper sanitation and so algae can't get started. Example of the TFPC methodology: if your cya is 50, your minimum FC level is 4 (rounded up). This means when you test each day or every couple of days, you should never see the FC level below 4; if you find that it's dropping below 4, you're not adding enough to stay ahead of the sun or you have organics breaking down chlorine; you can test for cc's to find out. But anyway, after you test, you then add enough liquid to target FC up to 6-8 in this example, and if you decide dosing each day is too troublesome, then you'll have to go even higher for dosing every two days; maybe 8-12 ppm to stay above that 4 ppm level at all times. The reason that you can actually keep FC this high is that your cya is at 50 and a large proportion of the FC in your pool is not active, since the cya is keeping much of it in reserve at any particular time. These higher FC levels are not too high for safe swimming provided that you have a corresponding cya level to match the proper FC. The TFPC FC suggested levels are actually chemically-correct levels that the industry fails to recognize. Go to troublefreepool.com and try the only method of managing chlorine and cya that uses valid chemistry in their methodologies. Having said all of that, except for the fact that SPL doesn't fully endorse the higher FC methodology without the need to ever shock, these podcasts are the real deal and much of his advice is spot on. I really like his 3-5 FC recommendation, which works as long as you don't let cya get above 50. This fella knows what he's talking about. Swim University is pretty good, but except for troublefreepool, if you're too stubborn to go with the "real deal" TFPC methodologies of pool care, I'd then stick with the info taught on these podcasts. Even TFPC subscribers can learn from this fella in a lot of areas.

You can buffer the pH with Borax. I had a salt water pool and always was adding acid.

Jim is 100% correct.

Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL I mean, I keep adding acid to my pool because it keeps going up very fast