The compressor kicked on as soon as I plugged in the refrigerator. The fridge was pulling over 100w from each inverter I plugged in.

@@OffGridBasement compressor or circulation fan? Also, a short appliance extension cord (3-wire flat cable, usually gray) would be a good addition to your kit.

@@jamesalles139 actually not sure. I thought it was the compressor. I guess I just didn't run it long enough to truly test. Thanks for the tip.

@@OffGridBasement 100 Watts seems a little low (except in the sense of average wattage say, over 24 hrs). The average home refrigerator uses 350-780 watts

​@@jamesalles139 100w is normal for 300l fridges. If you have 500+ then 200 300 can be expected. Actually the current draw is more while it's in defrost. The defrost heater of a 300l fridge pulls 350w almost.

Thanks for the info! I'm going to try out an extended test on that fridge using the 500w inverter.

@@OffGridBasement good luck!

How did the long duration test go?

I'll look into it. Thanks for the info!

@Solar And Off Grid Can I see a picture of the inverter board?

@Solar And Off Grid Seems like the inverter is defective, good call

@@penuelseun Nope it is just a crappy cheap design that I would never trust. The uploader was very lucky it didn't damage his fridge.

Correct. Low voltage supply = slow burn of circuitry. High voltage supply = explosion. Providing correct voltage is a lot less danger.😮

Yes. I thought the compressor was kicking in, but it turns out it was mostly like the fan. Thanks for the comment and the info.

i was going to say how do you know the compressor kicked in? I can tell you wilth almost 100% certainty the 500watt inverter wouldn't be able to handle the surge

even the inverter is on it pull bit power ok this why I have shout off switch between positive of battery and positive off inverter

do you know even you switch off your inverter it still have power in side of it and pull bit of power from battery this what no body knows I see lot video ok what I do I have switch between positive of my battery and positive of my inverter to switch it off so I will not lose power from my battery ok

@@andyjack2368 yes it tells you on the inverter what the current draw when idol

I'm glad you found it helpful!

Thank you! Will do!

I'm glad you got something out of the video! Thanks for the sub and the comment.

Thank you for the great information and the comment!

That sounds like a good plan. If you need a 5000w inverter for one appliance, you definitely should get a smaller one for everything else. Thanks for the comment.

Glad to hear it! Thanks for the comment.

Don't! You must use a power meter like a "Killer-Watt" first to determine what the compressor's start-up power is required. Also, It really depends on the quality of the inverter, as there are many factors like power-factor, VA vs Watts, meaning the VA changes as the battery voltage sags (gets lower) so with a fully charged 12V battery at float charge (13.7v) you may get 92% efficiency but when the battery is close to 12v (dead) your efficiency will be much lower at around 65%. I have an 6kw PSW inverter that has a 0.6a standby usage, bigger doesn't always mean more standby draw, quality and design of the inverter does.

A quick start takes a lot less watts

Good to know. Thanks for the info!

More to come! Thanks for the comment.

You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for sharing! Sounds like you have it well thought out. Thanks for the comment.

That's smart and a very good point. Thanks for the comment!

Thank you for the information and the comment.

That is counterintuitive but it does make sense once you think about it. Thanks for the great info!

you can connect a capacitor to the inverter output to correct power factor instead of the light bulb. A motor run capacitor would probably work but make sure the capacitor is designed to be connected across ac line. you may have to experiment with different values.

@@kwacz Exactly. The "antidote" to an inverter is a capacitor and would have been ideal. As I was in a hurry, I improvised. A rechargeable battery might have also worked. Hmm. I wonder if there's a market for building capacitors into such inverter motors directly? What common, household devices have a naturally high capacitance that I might want to throw into such a system in a hurry?

@@Insightfill be careful. a rechargeable battery would not want to be connected because the inverters output is ac and batteries are dc. The capacitor would work but only if it has an ac rating and is non polar, and made to be left in circuit across the line.

Thanks for the info. The fridge was pulling over 100w from the small inverter. I'll probably do another duration video of that fridge using the 500 inverter just to see if it holds up.

Just so you know, the surge rating is very misleading on most inverters as it is only for 1/100 of a second, not for the 10-60 seconds needed when a motor starts like in a fridge or hover, this is why high-end inverters do not show or claim a surge rating, only cheap inverters made in China do.

Thanks for the information!

Thanks for the comment!

Yes I believe so as well. Thanks!

Thanks for the info and the comment.

That is a good idea. I need to cut one down to size. Thanks for the info!

Thanks for the info. The inverter is 12v, but everything else is correct. Glad to hear your inverter is working great with no problems. I've heard AIMS inverters are top notch! Good choice.

@@OffGridBasement I also want to chip in a bit: you are no doubt aware of the difference between LF and HF topologies for power inverters ? HF uses mainly MOSFETS on aluminium coolingbodies with perhaps a smaller transformer here or there to get to AC voltage (for me 230 volts, for you 115 volts I guess), and when constructed well enough they can handles very short surges of 2x their nominal power. LF inverters do the same thing without those MOSFETS (for the most part, there are hybrid topologies that mix the two main topologies) and use massive copperwire transformers, preferrably of the toroidal type to get to AC output. In general, and I repeat "in general" here, the LF inverter utilizing this huge transformer to do the work, will outlive whatever HF inverter you compare it to. The fall out levels of HS inverters are staggering compared to these "old school" transformer inverters and typically they can handles surges twices as long and 3x as high as nominal power output ratings. Therefore inductive loads from saws (maitre saw, miter saw, what is the word ?) and motors and pumps will cause many a HF inverter to break or not do anything at all where as the LF inverter just runs it without breaking a sweat. For that you get a big downside and that is, as you already indicated a big and heavy machine that costs a penny (usually, you can get good deals, I have Vevor LF power inverters of 12 volts 3000 watts 230 volt that also feature 75 amps battery charging like yours that costed me about 300 dollars each, so that was a bargain really) AND a very high standbye consumption of 66 to 80 watts. If you combine them with some solar panels and a dedicated MPPT off grid battery charger then you can live with that consumption to at least have up to 3000 watts in my case ready to handle anything from lighting to laptops and wifi modems to a watercooker, vacuumcleaner, microwave, drill and saw and electric oven. Do take gauge 4/0 (120 mm2) pure copper cables for 12 volts input, less for 24 or 48 volts, and a sizable lithium iron phosphate batterybank. I got 72 KWh of LiFePO4 storage to back up 2 of these 3000 Watt LF inverters, enough juice to run 3000 watts nominal for 2 days. In practise you will never use 3000 watts non stop for 2 days, so I expect I can last much longer than that. But if I were to also electrically heat my house, or parts of it at least, than my battery bank would require and upgrade to at east 90 to 100 KWh ! I decided to just call it a day when I reached 72 KWh though. But I digressed severely. Sorry. LF Inverters are underrated and unknown to most. Would I trust an HF inverter to run my electricity for years on end ? Only when it says Victron. But I can't afford Victron. ;-p So I put my trust in bulky Chinese made LF inverters instead. They are like tanks, they are ugly but they are in 95 percent of all cases indestructible.

Thanks for the info and the comment.

Thanks for the info and the comment.

Yes! I take it you don't have any problems as well. Thanks for the comment.

Maybe 300W is the minimum power, depending the freezer. When the freezer starts, it needs a high peak power for seconds. A minimum of 500-600W is recommended in order to not force the inverter.

I do have something from Sonoff. I really only shows a daily chart, but I guess it's better than nothing. Maybe I'll try to work with something like that to show more information about the process. Thanks for the information!

I dont need my inverter to on ok even you turn it off its still power in inverter ok I do my own ok I have a shout off switch between positive off battery and positive off my inverter ok so when I turn it off it shout off no power in side of my inverter even you turn it off with inverter switch its still have power in side of it take little bit power from battery dont know that

That tells you AC not DC amps.

That is also another option! lol

Thanks for all the great info!

@@OffGridBasement I meant to say "2500 mAh" not wh.

@@OffGridBasement I forgot to add that a portable folding solar panel can easily directly power a USB fan and the larger sized ones can power them in very low light. I demonstrated a high quality 30w folding panel with Sunpower cells powering one in the rain in a vid. You aren`t supposed to leave them in the rain but it was just a quick demonstration to show how efficient they can be. Larger ones can do that in the shade even. When hurricanes Laura and Delta hit us in 2020 I went through 100 dollars in batteries trying to keep fans running. Now that will never be an issue again. It was horrible. I hope to have power for my small window air conditioner by April usiing a 300ah LiFeP04 and solar. I have the main parts and need a few more things to get it safely running so I can stay cool.

That's a good idea. I'll do that in a bit.

Thank you!

Uh no..neg first always.. first on..and first off

I didn't wait for the compressor to kick in for each inverter. That was a bad test. Thanks for the comment!

The compressor kicked on as soon as I plugged in the refrigerator. The fridge was pulling over 100w from each inverter I plugged in. Thanks for the question!

@@OffGridBasement Mine pulls about 240 watts when on and it's smaller than your. But it's also a lot older.

That's good! If you ever need to run just one small device, you have that smaller inverter for it. Thanks for the comment.

You're welcome!

Thanks for the information and the comment.

Good question! I always assumed the bigger the inverter the more standby consumption, but it's worth checking out to be sure. Thanks for the comment.

Thank you for the information and the comment.

I'll try it out. Thanks!

Thanks for the info and the comment.

Agreed. Thanks for the comment.

Yes. I did realize I wasn't leaving the inverters plugged in long enough to make an accurate test. Thanks for the comment.

Good to know! I'll try an extended run to see what happens. Hopefully I can document the entire process and keep track of some data along the way. Thanks for the comment.

That's a great use! Thanks for the info and the comment.

Thanks for the info and the comment.

You're welcome! Thanks for the comment and info.

You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.

Thank you for the information and the comment.

There was. One of the capacitors was blown. The inverter has a 5 year warranty so I got it replaced for free. Thanks for the comment.

Thank you for the information and the comment.

Thank you.

The compressor kicked on as soon as I plugged in the refrigerator. The fridge was pulling over 100w from each inverter I plugged in. Thanks for the question!

Thank you for the information and the comment.

Yes. The fridge was a bad test for the inverters. I didn't give enough test for the fridge to start the compressor. Thanks for the info and comment.

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

12A @ 120v is equal to 1,440W on the AC side. On the DC side, you would need that plus 20% due to losses in the inverter. that would be 1440 + 288 = 1728w. 1728w divided by 48v = 36amps on the DC side. Those are just the equations to help you figure out other devices. You always want to wire up for Max power of the inverter. 3000w/48v = 62.5 amps. 6awg wire can max out at 75A, but you don't want to do that. Keep it safe by going with 4 awg wire and fuse it with a 75A inline fuse. Hope this helps!

You don't want to max out your inverter every time you use it. Whatever the hair dryer is rated for I would double it in the size of the inverter. 1000w hair dryer = 2000w inverter. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.

You're correct. It's low frequency alright. It also weighs a ton compared to the other ones! Thanks for the comment.

Unfortunately you can't go from solar panels straight to an inverter. Depending on how the panels are wired, it could be way too much voltage. That's why you need a solar charge controller. It regulates the voltage of the panels. I also think you will need a battery bank to constantly pull that much energy. Sorry this isn't what you wanted to hear.

@@OffGridBasement Yes. But thanks anyway. I appreciate it.

I will admit the testing wasn't fully thought through. I need to re-evaluate the process of testing. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks! I try to make my videos informative and entertaining. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks. The testing on the refrigerator wasn't the best. I didn't let the compressor turn on for each inverter. Thanks for the comment.

Thank you for the info and the comment.

Thanks for the comment and info!

Thanks for the info. I'll try to run the fridge for an extended amount of time on just the 500w inverter to see if it can last.

@@OffGridBasement BTW, what does the tag on the fridge show as far as the Voltage and current? My 25 cu-ft side by side shows 120V 6.5A full load, I check compressor startup, it is over 30 Ac Amp. Also does your fridge use a couple 25W incandescent lamp? When I try using 1500W inverter, I can hear the compressor trying to come on then I can hear it click off due to false start (lock rotor), but the circulating fan is still running which will make you think the compressor is running.

My full time inverter is the brand "Reliable" and it just works. If you have the extra money I would go with Victron. It really depends on what you are using it for. Thanks for the question.

​@@OffGridBasement thank you for kind answer

I don't think so. I didn't run the inverters for long enough.

Thanks for the info. I found out the 108v inverter had a blown capacitor. I've since got it replaced with warranty. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the information and the comment.

I'm not sure what all happened with the inverter. I didn't want to mess with the fridge after that just because it was brand new and I didn't want to mess anything up with it.

Great Info. Thanks again!

You’re welcome 😊

Thank you for the info.

98% is with no load. I believe you are correct about 80+% on a decent load. Thanks for the comment.

I'm sure it will work just fine. The reason it's under $200 is because it is a modified sine wave inverter.

Thank you so much for all of the great information!

Thank you for the great information and comment.

I figured it to be the power it took to run the unit without a load. I guess I should measure in increments to see the losses in incremental steps of power. Thanks for the info.

Haha! I can't understand why it didn't work. Might want to get a 600w inverter and try again. 😜

it's probably the initial amperage draw of the fridge. It might be overpowering your inverter.

I've done other videos about the fridge using a 1500w inverter. I honestly don't know what the minimum would be. It depends on the amperage output of the fridge. You would then triple that and multiple it by the voltage to get the wattage needed for start up.

The compressor kicked on as soon as I plugged in the refrigerator. The fridge was pulling over 100w from each inverter I plugged in. Thanks for the question!

Thanks for the good information and the comment.

Oh yeah in someways it might be more efficient to have a slightly higher standby current on a pure sine wave inverter then to run a modified sine wave inverter. But I haven't personally tested this.

I know. Not the best test.

So you can turn the inverter off and on? It would work well if you don't mind manually switching the circuit breaker on every time you want to use the inverter. Thanks for the comment.

@@OffGridBasement I’m trying to build a power station so I can just run an a/c on it at night it’s an a/c that doesn’t take much power

Thank you for the info and the comment.

Troy, what is the voltage on the Krieger Inverters? I'm guessing they are 12v inverters. That would mean you need to connect all of your batteries in PARALLEL, not series. Disconnect all the batteries and start over by connecting them in parallel. That should give you around 13ish volts. Do you have a solar charge controller?

@@OffGridBasement Good evening this is Troy thank you so much for the advice - Gosh I spent load s of time on the batteries today thinking that I eventually got it right - Q - why should it matter in parallel or series I understand in parallel the voltage stays the same like you said 12 or 13 I don't really get the series situation but can you not use a voltage reducer to reduce the voltage to 12 volts instead of ripping it all apart again I have a transformer which could reduce 240 volts down to 12 volts ? Or you think just do what you said put them all in parallel many thanks Troy let me know

I believe with the transformer you would lose some energy due to conversion and heat. It would be better to just rewire. Here is the difference between parallel and series connection in your situation: *This is based on 6 - 12v 100ah batteries* - Series connection: You will multiple the number of batteries by the voltage of each battery. 6 * 12v = 72v @ 100ah. - Parallel Connection: You multiple the number of batteries by the amp hours of each battery. 6 * 100ah = 12v @ 600ah Either way you are getting 7200watt hours of energy. The thing is you need to make sure to wire the batteries to a voltage that your inverter is set to. If you have a 12v inverter, you need to wire the batteries accordingly to get the same voltage. It's the same with the solar controller. If you bought a 24v inverter you would wire them 2 by 2 by 2. That means having 3 sets of 2 batteries in series, then wiring the sets into parallel. I hope this helps!

@@OffGridBasement hi this is Troy thank you very much for your help this evening I have listened to what you have said and I would do that tomorrow and I will retry the inverter before I send it back to Amazon have a good evening Troy

You're correct. This would only be a temporary solution. Thanks for the comment.

Thank you!

Thank you for the info and the comment.

That's odd b/c it should only be surging about 300w. Could it be a defrost feature that kicking it? Thanks for the comment.

I would keep an eye on input voltage.

The amount of power to start a compressor varies quite significantly. If your power inverter is not quite big enough it may start the compressor most of the time but not all of the time.

The only reason I don't like it is b/c it states to not use for Lifepo4 chemistry. I could still use it if I needed, but I would rather use a regular Lifepo4 charger. Low Frequency is nice, but again... I currently don't have a use for it. Maybe if I get a big 12v bank I could find a way to utilize it. I'll probably just end up putting it in my dad's RV. Thanks for the comment and the info!

Thanks for the comment.

I do. I have a video coming out showing why the ALFFAA inverter has low voltage.

@@OffGridBasement Good deal. I'll bet someone else is having he very same problem and will have a chance to see the fix. A T Burke