I can't remember the last time I bought "new". Everything in the collection is pretty much 2nd hand. Accurail, proto, bluebox all do fine by me. A little paint, metal wheels, and couplers make them look just fine. I just refuse to buy into the overinflation of the hobby.

I started model railroading in the 1970's when I was a mere 7 years old. I insisted on N scale. My dad thought I was crazy because N scale is so small, but when you are 7 years old it's not small at all. Tiny hands, sharp vision. It was perfect. When I got older I understood his reluctance. lol But anyway, I have Kadee (now Micro-Trains) freight cars from the 1970s that are still the industry standard. Metal under-bodies instead of separate weights. Crisp details. Separate foot stirrups, break wheels and running boards made from nylon instead of styrene. Sliding doors. Drop ends on gondolas. Not to mention their couplers. It took decades for other manufactures to come even close to Micro-Trains detail and value. Why they are not represented in your video is perplexing. Also, BLA and Scale-Trains have produced some exceptional covered hoppers with ridiculous detail. Those brands should have been your high tier.

The six Micro-Trains cars I recently bought (a four-car pack of tank cars and two 50' box cars, all Southern Pacific) probably cost more than the TEN Atlas and Bachmann Silver cars I have. But it was worth it. They look good and they run very well right out of the box. And they have some heft - unlike the other cars on my roster they can be pushed over a Kato #4 turnout consistently without derailing, and I think a lot of that has to do with their weight. All my Atlas and Bachmann cars have been upgraded with MTL trucks, btw.

MTL has been hands down the most consistent manufacturer I've bought from. Everything works great out of the box and I never have to worry about buying from them. Love the channel, man. Keep up the good work!

Hi, Jimmy This is the first of your videos I have watched. I will be looking for more soon! I have read most of the comments below. There really is a lot of different views on this issue. I know I have many, but we all enjoy this hobby. I would like to share with you and others something I have learned over the years. I bought my First locomotive when I was just 16 y/o, a Milwaukee road SD9 which I still have today! I'm now 65 and proudly show it to my grand kids! I said all that just as a background so you know I have done this for a long time. My layout when I was young I could never seem to get it right. I would spend hours and hours with tiny details. Then when people came to see my Trains the remarks were '' how cute '' little trains. -------------- WHAT???? I could not believe my ears NO one noticed the DETAILS..... Hours I spent, I thought wasted? That's when I knew why there are many levels, just as you showed in this video. I used all those levels. The cheap ones never run on the main line. They just sit along buildings and yards as props. The better ones are used in service. Most of my rolling stock is now passenger coaches pulled by E's and F's which is my favorite Trains. And of course the Geeps for freight. Because that's what I grew up with in the 60's and 70's So I have learned you CAN use all these things to build the best layout you can. So enjoy it all, whatever you chose to use! After all it IS your layout, you are the boss!!!!

Thanks for posting! I feel that price and people's uncertainty about it has become an issue in recent years, its important to talk about it.

I started Nscaling in the 90's & was taken back by the sticker shock. At first I was buying less expensive models to jump start my collection to learn later that I should have waited to buy higher end cars. I've been collecting passenger cars & locomotives & will now buy only Kato brand models. I've kept receipts & price stickers on each box & see how inflation is in force. My collection is part of my estate & will be given to someone I know whom will appreciate what this is with hopes that it will not be sold. My family knows my passion for this but to them, these are just little cars in boxes that are taking up space. It takes time to appreciate the intricate & painstaking details in workmanship & what to look for in this hobby. It's not for kids, just for the big boys with matching budgets.

I love my Accurail cars in HO scale. Decent details, low cost, and a fun project putting it together

This is a very well thought out and really detailed explanation of various companies and associated production costs. I appreciate the references to - the next level - as opposed to how much you spent for each item. Thank you!

Great review! Thank you for sharing this with us!

I’ve been snagging second hand rolling stock at my local hobby shot for $3 a shot ( condition as is) to practice painting on and I’m seeing a difference between companies and quality as I take the shells off to prime and start painting, I never thought twice on the differences until this video!

Hey Jimmy, great video. I recently purchased a mixed bag of n scale rolling stock, trees , buildings and a few locomotives for an EXCELLENT price! Thanks for informing this rookie about the "details".

You get what you pay for, microtrains are the only ones that never give problems out the box. I found I spend more on cheaper cars fixing them, then just buying a microtrains car.

My cars are almost 100% Micro-Trains Line (MTL). The detail is exceptional and they are very reliable. They also hold their value. Edit/Add: I also have a number of KATO passenger cars. Not only is the exterior well detailed but so is the interior. It is also easy to install the KATO interior lighting kits in them if they did not come with it already installed.

Athearn, Microtrains, & Exactrail are excellent choices for high end N scale as well.

Thank you for sharing this video I really glad I watched it because I don't know a lot about this stuff and I really want to learn more

I am AMAZED that any company selling new rolling stock could be cash flow positive. The prices seem to be marked up 400%. For a declining market. I'm willing to bet that these high prices keep a high percentage of interested parties away from this beautiful and enriching hobby. It definitely is the reason why my dad and I (he's 77 and I'm 48) decided to not get into it after researching N scale for the last 3 months. Even used prices for this hobby would necessitate we stop doing the many things we spend our money on to be a help or blessing to our neighbors and friends and family just to begin. Definitely retirement money needed...

I bought a few used cars off eBay with greatly reduced prices with good results so far

Really interesting video! It's cool now to see why each car cost as much as they do, something that'll keep in mind in the future if I try to make my own...

I have found Bachmann Silver Series rolling stock the best for me. They come in around $20.00 each and have a good quality build with lots of nice (middle of the road) detailing. Bachmann metal wheels and body mount couplers are a must for my layout.

As you can see everyone love micro-trains, they has the detail and run great, if I could say the price does make the difference, I've seen the prices climb over the years but I've seen much better cars coming too, you get what you pay for. This is also plays out in the locomotives too....thanks for sharing....Jack 👍

Thanks for the video.

This video is just as relevant today as it was two years ago. Thank you for keeping this hobby accessable. Ps still drinking Nicaragua single roast coffee,

Nice video on some of the differences of brands. I have my n scale going back to Aurora Postage Stamp trains I bought in 1969 and 1970. I also have some Graham Farrish Trains My mom bought for me when we were in England. These were some really nice quality trains for back in the day. Today I-still have some n scale but mostly Atlas, Micro-Trains and Kato. I pay a little more but like the good quality trains from the 70’s they run really well. Mostly today I run S Scale trains and my wife does O Scale. Ireally enjoy your videos! Thanks for sharing them. Chris

You were talking about adding weights to one of your cars, next time you get your vehicle serviced ask if they have some stick on wheel weights they use for balancing tires, they’ll probably give you some, they’re small and supper sticky, and made of usually lead so it doesn’t take much. Thanks for the videos, my kiddo and I are getting ready to build a model railroad and these videos are helping me out.

I think that first car you showed, had weight added to it. A lot of us would go to our local tire shop and buy the sticky weights they use inside the rims to balance the wheels.

Great video.....I do HO and I love Bachmann Silver Series rolling stock ....Even in HO the detail is quite good and the price is great .... I hate plastic wheelsets and as soon as I can I switch to metal ...

Trains with Shane recommended you channel and I’m glad he did.

Hi Jimmy, I discovered your channel via the BLI email linking your Y6b video (great video BTW, I’ve also broken a few couplers trying to find the pulling limit of my BLI Centipedes) and this one was brought up by the algorithm. I enjoyed this, I have been thinking of doing something similar for some time now, and I am glad to have found yours so I don’t have to. If I could be so bold, I would have liked to see a comparison of the same type of car, as you did with the first and last two.I have a couple of the Bachmann covered hoppers, and when compared to the Altas covered hoppers made in the past two decades, the walkways on the Bachmann look horribly toy-like. I am a big fan of Micro-Trains, they track reliably without metal wheels and they look great (and not made in China!). I have also found that some details look better when omitted; one of my beefs is a detail added as a separate part that ends up being oversized, when if it’s molded on, it just disappears. A good example of this is windshield wipers on locomotives, they don’t stand out on real locomotives but when they are added to an N scale loco they become a dominant feature. I’m glad to have found your channel, I’m certainly going to come back and watch some more.

Jim: EXCELLENT video about 'basic' differences in freight car choices vs price. I currently own over 4,000 N-scale freight cars that range from- train show bought $2 ones to lately purchased $30+ per car 4/5 cars 'sets' (yes, and some of them ARE the basic Bachmann choices you covered!); Have been mainly an N-scaler for 35+ years now (starting to branch out some to also include HO scale of late), but you did a GREAT job of covering why- some freight cars cost more than others... without ONCE getting into why MicroTrains for DECADES now has been the 'standard' of N-scale rolling stock , (another term for freight cars), but has some NOW worthy (truly believe- MicroTrains forced others to equal) competitors- InterMountain, Atlas, etc. Think you need to do a video (related to a topic you raised more than once in this one)- proper weighting for 'better/smoother operation of N-Scale rolling stock' in general... which occurs WHEN N-scale (or ANY scale cars!) are properly weighted, according to NMRA ''recommended practices'. For example a 40' N-scale car 'ought' to weigh- .95 ounces... they sure 'run better' when cars are properly weighted, which in N-scale can be achieved by using easily obtained (like from a Bass Pro Shop retail outlet + Goo type glue and of course an electronic scale, easily obtainable at most 'smoke shops' for under $25, well worth the expense) small lead fishing weights, glued inside (non-detectable to outside view) each car- any hobbyist (even beginners) can easily do same..

I like middleground models "in between being a toy and a model"

The Atlas car has MTL trucks and couplers installed, not the original Atlas trucks and couplers. Also, I wouldn't call the 90ton hopper from the trainman line as a higher end car, as even Atlas has said that the trainman line is their low end line.

Great tutorial on explaining the difference between low cost to higher cost. 👊🏻 Question: On some sites as I go into looking at locomotives or rolling stock I see 2 choices: Master & Trainman. What's the difference? Stay Safe & God Bless!!

Hi, the video was very informative, I’m just getting back into the hobby, starting out with a shelf switching yard 6x1. So, rolling stock.

I Build and purchase nothing but highly detailed rolling stock and locomotives. I have hundreds of locomotives and rolling stock of this quality. I often take those models even a step further by adding and sometimes removing details to make them even more accurate to match a prototype. I spend countless hours doing this. People that generally complain about the price of models usually don't realize the amount of time it takes to build them. All of those details that have been added to a ready-to-run model have been hand assembled by someone. A machine is not doing that. It takes hours to assemble models. The more parts there are to a model the longer it is going to take to complete it. That is really where the cost increase comes into play. You are paying for parts and labor. Entry level equipment is inexpensive because most parts are molded on and the models is hand assembled in minutes.

I'm surprised you didn't do a Micro-Trains car for a high end sample.

I like Micro-Trains best. Even their older stuff is very nice and even today the cars are easily high to mid cost. They also always run nice (even with plastic wheels) and the couplers are super reliable. Atlas is also good, but some of the older Atlas is more crude that Micro-Trains.

It was interesting watching this video in relation to your latest video.

Thanks for you informative video on N scale rolling stock. I usually purchase only Atlas or Kato. I will start looking at Broadway Limited.

It is now Feb 2024. My friend and myself both have large HO layouts and thing we say to ourselves all the time is how can the younger generation afford to come into the model railroading hobby anymore. All Engines and Railroad Cars are completely assembled now and are usually costing 40 dollars or more for the Cars, and Engines can cost anywhere from 200 dollars on up 500-600 dollars. The only kit Railroad cars now are by Accurail and those are around 20 dollars. Buying track is expensive now, scenery, and everything else. Even buying lumber, wire, and electronics has gone through the roof for anyone starting a layout now. Time have changed from when we built our layouts. It has turned into a very Rich mans hobby. I help out at a train hobby shop and hardly see any young kids come into the store. Thanks for the video. take care.

Micro-Trains is the way to go as said before ,they just work. I don't have any Scaletrains cars but if they are like their locomotives then they will rival Micro-Trains.

I go to train shows and look at the train cars a d purchase the ones I want. I recently went to one and purchased 2 cars to practice weathering them. The thing I like about the train shows is that you can find some great deals if you look for them.

I bought mostly micro trains cars when I started to get back into the hobby. I didn't realize, until later, how good they are. I like atlas too. Other brands look good too, just haven't bought any yet.

Many years ago I bought an HO gauge Life Like Thrall door box car. It was $4 new(1974). After getting it I body mounted kadee couplers, put a pair of Central Valley sprung trucks ($4 in those days) and a coat of Testors dullcoat. This was about two months as money allowed. Many times I've taken Athearn cars and a thin wash of black paint or India ink. Simple things that make a car look and operate better. My great downfall was always Athearn handrails. Over time I've gotten better. Thx for the space

Nice vid.....he build me a layout any day.

We've been having the same discussion in the UK over the last decade or so. But when you actually look at prices and average weekly salaries between the late 1970s and today, model railways have become slightly cheaper over this period as a percentage of the average weekly salary. In the same time the detail on the models have from just the basic details to having all the bells and whistles.

You should do the same thing with engines. I am new and this was reallly helpful. Thank you.

I have bought a few of the new Model Power cars to learn how to weather cars. They are amazing to learn the techniques on.

great stuff to know

I've got a mix of different manufacturers in my N Scale rolling stock fleet. I've got the "train set" tier Bachmann pieces, they just need a new set of trucks with knuckle couplers to be more widely compatible with other rolling stock and locomotives. I've also got some Con-cor rolling stock, they needed to have additional weight placed inside to prevent derailments. There's also some Atlas rolling stock mixed in and they run quite nicely out of the box. Only two Intermountain pieces of rolling stock, they look quite nice and run well with no issues. A single set of 6 Kato Union Pacific passenger cars, the price back in the '90's for that set was a bit steep but worth it. Some Minitrix are mixed in, some of them run fine but others have a habit of derailing. The lions share of rolling stock is MicroTrains, hoppers (covered and uncovered), box cars, cabooses, flat cars, etc., that manufacturer had me covered for freight cars.

add metal wheels and weigh to the nmrs weight standards. you will be suprised how well your cars will run.

I'm from Youngstown, Ohio and I can't count high enough the number of those P&LE hoppers I used to see as a boy in the late 60's. Gateway Yard.

Two things... 1) You mentioned several times, the weight used in the cars, while evaluating it's merit, to a degree. But you never compared each of those weights to the NMRA standard. I think the weight which is closest to the standard should "earn points" in your overall presentation. 2) I'll simply echo what so many other commenters have written, about how Micro Trains and Exact Rail are higher quality than the five you showed. That you didn't include them in this video leaves us to wonder if have any in your collection? :)

Yes hi I personally would choose atlas every time good car from and I like the style.

wow very cool

When I first go into model railroading, I bought different cars from different manufacturers. I''ve since learned to ONLY buy Micro Trains. They are expensive, but if you buy used from 20-25 years ago, they work perfectly.

I just found your site and subscribed. I have N scale trains and they are all German. I have the Milwaukee 261 set and the Big Boy engine with DM & IR ore cars though, but that is all for my American trains. I have some original Arnold N and most of my stock is stuff no longer produced - which makes them that much more valuable to me. I do have one Kato German E lok model and it is a smooth runner. I have always noticed a huge difference in American prototypes over American and the price tags show it too. There is a huge difference in German made models and the ones made in China, although I must say that the new Hornby/Arnold has put out some very fine models.

This may be a big deal in HO scale, but in N scale, super detailing gets “lost in the crowd”. N scale is viewed “from on high”, and long strings of cars look fine even if details are missing. The key point is that the car is in scale with correct proportions.

Thank you. I started in '74, then everything went into storage in '84, then I donated everything in the hope that the local children would become interested in the hobby, to a model train museum in Kingman, AZ. There isn't a hobby store in Kingman. And now I am attempting a restart after 10 years of retirement.

If you need weights for inside the cars, go to any tire shop and ask to rumage through the USED stick weights and WE will be more then happy to give you as many as you want. Wash them at home in dishwasher soap and attach with ACC or hot glue.

Hi Jimmy, Just a quick suggestion when you are 3D designing. If you have a overhang add a 45 deg slang to the bottom if possible. This eliminates the need for supports. Example would be your roof support on the gas station model. I know this works 100% on a FDM printers not sure with a resin printer since I have never used one (do a small test run). Would you recommend going to resin printers? Thanks Rick

I've picked up most of my rolling stock by trolling flea markets, antiques emporiums, etc. can often find rolling stock in good shape for $5.00-$10.00 or thereabouts. (HO scale). Usually it's Tyco, Bachmann or Atlas brands. I'm not a 'detail fanatic' as long as it looks good, couples up OK and rolls good I'm happy. What I have found however is that 'collectible' road names may carry a bit of a premium..I just purchased a Life-Like brand HO scale caboose in Pennsylvania RR 'tuscan red' with the PRR keystone logo to go with my Mantua F7A/B combo locomotive in PRR livery. It was sitting right next to a comparable quality 'generic' caboose and was priced a couple of dollars more probably because of the PRR livery finish on it. I did have to add a bit of weight to it..easily accomplished by dropping some lead airgun pellets in through the window openings. Real model railroad fanatics probably would turn up their noses at 'flea market' finds but I refuse to pay $25.00 and up for what I find for a fraction of 'new' cost and I have just as much fun.

I have that Bachman boxcar, starting the hobby 30 years ago by buying a set. I think they still sell the set now, but with Bachman track instead of old Atlas track, although the steam locomotive is the same. Mine ran for a couple of months lol. Now primarily buy Micro Trains or Atlas or Kato passenger sets. Would like to see a train full of Model Power cars running on the layout though, for amusement sake.

Oh how well I recall the days of hand painted Tin Trains & Cars. An entire set of which, sold for between $5 and $10 bucks USD in stores, with Track and Transformer included.

I know you like for your layout to focus more in the trains but could you do a video on n scale buildings? Like how you are demonstrating the differences between the manufacturers, could you do something similar to building sets? Is there cheaper building sets that can be improved on?

I'm getting back into model railroading and still have my n gauge locomotives and rolling stock from the late 60'sand early 70's. I will be replacing my engines so I can get into DCC but I am planning on using my existing rolling stock to start off with. Based on this they are pretty good quality even by today's standards...metal wheels, good detail and mechanical couplers.

A lot of folks are forgetting Exactrail. They were really one of the first "high - end" rolling stock makers. They are also still very much in business though they went direct bypassing dealers a number of years ago. All of my Exactrail cars are superior in quality and detail to anything I have that Microtrains made. They all come with their blackened metal wheels.

I started building my own rolling stock. The prices have gotten out of control. Less younger people are not getting into the hobby. In fact I really like making rolling stock in both n and ho scales.

20 years ago used to spend a few hours making a Blue Box Athearn look as good as a Kadee Boxcar. But people want great out of the box with no assembly, let alone paint, decals and detailing.

on n scale - british, have you any experience of peco and graham farish please or lima from italy, love to know what you think of them.

I'm from England. Why I chose to model nGauge American is simply for something different from my previous models. I found out painfully the differences that you discuss here, and many more besides. Buying second hand on ebay is a veritable minefield. Quality of manufacture and running problems just two of the things that I wish that I had known beforehand. The BIG problem for me is that there are potentially 10 + types of coupling available... no advertiser tells you the coupling that their offering has. Maybe they don't know, but you soon find out when trying to run rakes of wagons !! Add to that , being limited for space and tight curves compound the problem. I've sacrificed a few wagons just to cannibalise the parts, mainly couplers. So we learn the hard way. For additional weight ( critical ) I use flat strip lead from my aquarium plant-weight leftovers, with dabs of cyano glue to keep the centre of gravity central. Some manufacturers use weights on the TOP of the wagon ..... trying to defy simple physics of c of gravity !! Therefore, I find your article very informative. As to prices ... ? what price success compared with failure. Buy one good one instead of a few bad ones perhaps. ( I'm sure the made in China logo will vanish eventually.) I built two wagons from good couplers + bits of servo linkages and put on rolls of lead strip to look like rolls of sheet steel. They hold the wagons down well , and ... no derailments. Carry on the good work.

Except the cars I have bought on EBAY all my N scale cars have individual containers. I have 2 or 2 Bachmans and some specialty Model Power. I own lots of Atlas and Con Cor cars. A couple of years ago I bought a det of individually numbered Monon (Kadee) cars from a club. I am in the process of converting from Rapid couplers to micro trains. This is a work in progress. Basically I cherry pick the rolling stock I own to assemble different types of trains. I own 4 or 4 different passenger trains (all Ravarossi and a few Atlas). Good topic. Till uour next episode.

Informative car previews. Atlas coal cars are not weighted properly. The BLI coal car is nicer because it doesn't reveal the weight and possibly better weighted for operations. BLI is famous for awesome detail. Metal wheels track better too.

Thanks for doing this video! I'll purchase less expensive models if I think they are upgradable and do not require major reconstruction. Two things that are deal breakers for me, mfg.'s that use a model that is just wrong (your Bachman 4 bay hopper represents a prototype series that are 3 bay) , second is when mfg.'s use a road # series that doesn't exist (your Atlas Hopper). I think that even today there's a place in the hobby for different levels of product. If they would just keep them real. :)

You should have a sold color table because you camera wants to focus on the paint spills and marks on the background.

Alot of freight cars ive seen at a hobby shop that was selling Tyco or others for cost far more then they worth . heck they use. Ebay as a gauge and go for the jacked up price.

Over the last two years, since I got back into model railroading, I've discovered that most of what you have said is true. I would not buy anything that looked as "Toy-Like" as that Model Power reefer box car. That shiny finish is awful, and the Bachmann finish is much better. You didn't mention that the lettering on the Bachmann is crisper. Apart from that, the only reason I wouldn't buy the Broadway Limited is that they are very expensive, even though they are sold as a set, which does, as you say, compensate a bit. Most of my stock is Atlas, with a couple of Trix items and a few Bachmann. I recently sold off a couple of Bachmann cars (a Caboose that had that shiny "Toy" finish and an F9 in Penn Central livery that didn't run very well - Have you noticed that bachmann F-units don't run that well?) I do have a couple of Bachmann Locos (not F-Units, U-Boats and GPs) that run as well as anything else, with the exception of my Kato/Atlas examples. Nice bit of info on the detailing, and a definate insight into the costs of manufacture there, Jimmy. Thanks.

There is also taking into account for licensing in the case for the Bachmann Thomas & Friends line of rolling stock.

I use 1/4x20 nuts as weights on 50 ft cars 3 work perfectly

Short answer: If it's between different brands, it depends on quality and level of detail. If it's within the same brand and line, it's entirely due to roadname licenses. If it's about how prices don't really scale linearly with scale, it's because of how electronics and tooling dominate pricing more at the smaller scales. If it's a general commentary on how expensive things have gotten, it's because manufacturers have found that they can make more money selling fewer units at higher prices.

I know that you are using n scale train cars as examples but does this also pertain to all scale model trains

I am just as happy running old Tyco or life-like rolling stock as i ma with the higher end Rolling stock and even buying in lots on ebay go ahead and make fun of me if you want but thst will not change my mind because of what someone keeps saying Its my Rail Road

How smart was Irv Athearn with the blue box range.

Bluford shops makes great stuff as well but pricey. In the late 1970's I was paying $7-8 for a Micro Trains boxcar the best around but always have been pricey. Thanks.

When the Atlas 90t hopper doesnt even have the original trucks or couplers... 🤣

The Model Power car is not painted, that's the color of the plastic, which is why it has a sheen. The body mount couplers are better than truck mounted, so I'd rate the covered hopper higher than the coal hopper. Plus the load is quite toy like. Cars these days have incredible detail, but at the same time, they're becoming cost prohibitive.

That’s the way to do it! Keep raising the prices, less people with stop buying or buy very little and in time, we will see manufacturers going out of business because of poor sales. Hard business to be in because it’s a hobby for those with a little pocket money. GREED ! 👽

For Me Mr. Jimmy my main Rolling Stock is Microtrains, the Detail is Good in there Cars especially there Weathered cars but it's not over the Top.. I also have FoxValley, Some Intermoutain & Athearn and for Caboose's I belive Athearn does them Best right along with Microtrains Bluford does them ok if they'd only used some metal in the Grab irons & End Porches its very thin plastic and you barely touch it and it Breaks, Microtrains to me Does the Best at replacement parts or making there cars where you fix the Car should something Break & in there Erlier years I liked how Microtrains designed there cars like there Hoppers you could open the Hatch covers.. On Microtrains Cabooses they use Light thin Metal if it somehow gets bent out of shape you can pretty easily fix it, and if have the Desire to change up the End piece its pretty easy to accomplish.. KATO was my Preferable Rollinstock when I got back into the Hobby & I still think they make some Really Good stuff and with Metal wheel sets it makes it easier to Run longer Trains And as Ron of Ron's Trains n' Things pointed out you can Take a Kato Coal car put a Microtrains coupler on it change it's Truck with a slight modification and put it in with other Rolling Stock.. Fun things you can Do with just a little Thinking Jimmy hope you and your Family Keeps staying safe & Have Merry Christmas 🎅 Allen D RDA N Scale..

There are a few more steps up beyond BLI,,Micro Trains couplers are great but their rolling stock has been surpassed by many manufacturers now. Atlas,Athearn (although not all of their stuff is created equal)Exact Rail and others have really up the competition

If I'm not mistaken the P&LE hopper has Micro-Trains couplers that someone somewhere replaced Atlases Accumate, I have Micro-Trains on about all my equipment for the delayed uncoupling. Atlas uses accumate which are junk as far as I'm concerned, McHenry is a little better but found they won't stand up if placed near the head-end of a 50 plus car train, the knuckle breaks. Interesting video, would like to see your take on Micro-Trains, Intermountain, and Kato, Kato usually comes in sets.

My guess is that those weights were 25 grams each (likely), and were an iron alloy (since iron is marked as Fe, as in Ferrous) with the 7 denoting an alloy type that the manufacturer orders, or an industry standard alloy for the country (or European Union) uses.

I am using Micro-Train freight cars and love them.

I went to a train show in Allentown PA and seen a n scale covered hopper that was covered in graffiti. Outrageous price of $350.00 . It bad enough paying $100.00 for a DC powered locomotive. Model Railroading is not just a hobby any more . It is an investment.🚂🚃🚃🚃.

I've been in nscale since 1984. The stuff now is much better. The lower end stuff reminds me of a lot of items available back then. I only buy stuff like that if it is pretty cheap. If it costs as much as the higher end cars to add new trucks and couplers it isn't worth it.

I love the bachmann overland limited sets UP stock car. It has black accents the roofcat walk the doors ladders brake wheels. But the walthers main line stock cars was all yellow but had metal wheel. As you guessed the sweet 2 tone overland limited stock car has plastic wheels and i tried can swap with metal wheels or trucks.

How about those new Roka auto racks ?

I think with a little modification, (weathering/aging, graffiti. I'm actually surprised that there are not rolling stock with graffiti as a detail.), the cheaper cars could look pretty good as static scenery. Paint the plastic wheels to look like metal & eliminate the sheen. Paint some of the molded detail to give it a separate piece appearance. I have taken pictures & video of actual operating trains to help with details that are realistic. It helps me to see details I might not think of. Like chipping paint, graffiti & train crossings that look weathered &/or damaged in some way.

Hi like your video's. question ? I just bought a set of NEW Kato 11 car California zephyr 106-1055 with display track 2006 release . in the foam inner holder But Missing outside box. they are selling for upwards of $350.00 . on Ebay. will the Missing outside box cause it to be les desirable or worth less? looks Unused. and I want to sell it cause I don't have Kato Couplers. what is it worth?

Thanks made in high volume cost less. Thus more premium items cost relatively much more because they often aren't sold in as high volume. For example, molding tooling cost needs to be amortized.

Bachman makes some very high end cars in in OO scale that cost anything between $60 and $100.