some of us in the U.S. that used to be into car audio in the 90's would almost always build kicks or other enclosures and get away from the doors, but over time with the new generation of installers and the manufactures going more main stream and getting away from the passion and specialization for car audio sound quality, it has really brought down the standard of what car audio should be in my opinion, it became more about sales and making money. also, with the tools and technology we have today, there should be more high-quality systems out there, but installers and shop owners just refuse to invest the time and money necessary to be that premier shop that everyone is searching for. this is why they think there are no clients out there for high end audio. it's the old adage, if you build it, they will come. thanks for your passion, keep up the good work.

I fully agree.. even with a front sub and 90-100hz xo there were still buzzes on most tracks.. now I've build 6.5-7l enclosures and the midbass is on another level.

Great topic to show Peter, goes to show how bad doors are for speaker location. Even when there well deadned, looking forward to the door builds for my next installment. I'm buzzing more than my doors after this improvement lol 😀❤❤.

Great video as always👍. Whether I want to or not, I need to redo the door before the next competitive season🤔

Mental when you hear the accuracy on the bass guitar, you can hear the notes whereas with the fronts it becomes muddy and blurred and the notes aren’t defined! Also the kick drum is just tighter. You can hear one note ending before the next starts. I don’t have room to do mid bass in kicks in my rs4 so a cheap £20 pair of enclosures from a scrap c6 Audi a6 is what’s going into my doors when I get round to it will require some cutting but the results should be outstanding! Especially after hearing the sound difference on this video!

Love this channel. I said it before the John Darko of Car Audio Channel!

Thumbs up because I was just about to dispose of my New Order Best Of/ Rest Of cd's and sell my Hybrid Audio 3 way bespoke (L1 pro R2 tweets) until I heard this, lucky me thought to see a recent video of yours, damn impressive and worth the time as the others you posted.

Or you take your eyeballs out and they fit cameras..😂..edy..you always crack me up!

Keep em coming please

Pete! They need to get you on the old fashioned car audio podcast! You’re consistently pushing the industry forward with your understanding of acoustics and application. It would be great to hear you chopping it up with Matt Schaefer and Gary Bell. Great video!🍻 🔊 🔊

I’ve always found that VW and Audi are built fairly solid and have little buzzing from factory, and with a little dampening can increase sound quality greatly.

My door in a '92 Camry play riddiculous midbass wothout low-pass, I covered them entirely with 0.8mm sheet metal. Mounted with rivnuts and 13x M4-M6 thread screws. It's very rigid. Speaker mount is also mounted to the sheet metal covering the door to increase rigidity around the speaker. Etirety is covered with deadening, airtight.

I've got a Golf 7 for which I soundproofed the door panels, the ones you take off, the door faces. The factory speakers were terrible, UNTIL soundproofing the door faces alone. A lot of rattle was coming from the rubber trim that covers the big hole in the front doors. It's edge that was sealing the hole was making so much noise against the metal it was sitting on. I managed to put some anti-screech tape between the rubber edge and the door edge and the rattle was gone. I just listened to the first song (New Order 2016 Remasterd) and wow, no rattle, no screeching and a very nice kick, even @ max volume. The speaker, player/amplifier are stock, they are around 20 W, but they sound very good once you eliminate the rattles. The rear view mirror is vibrating form those 20 W of stock power. I plan to put some soundproofing material on the inside and outside doors and behind the speaker. You must really put some effort into soundproofing the door faces, it takes about 1-1.5 hours for each one to make it silent. I even had to take them out 2 or 3 times for making the rattles to be a non-issue. I even had to take the windows module out of it's place and mess with it for some time to make it silent. But those 20 W are sounding so much better now !

Can’t recommend Patreon enough.

Great vídeo 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

I recommend you to set the lower frequencies to 12 slope on the midwoofer, but you can relax the speaker's oscillation that way, 80hz 12 slope.

Doors are a pain. I definitely like the idea of going with an enclosure in the doors. Finding space for kick panel installations on small modern cars just seems like a pain. The Mazda enclosures looked fantastic. On another note, I just don't like a-pillar pods like these. Seems like a visibility hinderance; at least on my tiny car they would be. :) And where I'm at they're a nice bit of advertising to would-be thieves. It's definitely function over form here, and function always wins for me but the form bugs me. :) The a-pillar pods you did on the Cube were just the right ticket. Looked almost perfectly factory. I wonder if using a 2" midrange could get the same result on VW A-pillars.

I found early on in the 90's that front seats in cars are usually never the best for SQ. Steering wheel, consoles, odd dash shapes, off axis down low door panel mounts all contributed to this. Kickpanel staging (and then waveguides) was all the rage in mags like CSR and solved this from a microphone perspective in the 'sweet spot' with an increased path lengths and better FR. But...with kicks umm, thats where our dang feet go, and legs can easily obstruct and muddy the image especially heard from the opposite side. Also one had to be careful not to 'step all over the sounds' or bang yer shin into the WG's. I dig your mid placement on the A-pillar next to the tweets, that has to sound really sweet. Also agree with you that the mid bass will be a trade off at best unless you mount a sizeable driver and enlclosure right near them. But its more important to have proper visibility while driving than a superior front stage. Best SQ I ever heard/created was in the REAR seat of a gen3 Camaro. 6×9 holes on the sides were slightly widened for a 8-4-1 vertical array. Original line of Fosgate speakers with their soft dome tweets (those being slightly above ear level) all 3 barely fitting behind the factory grille running off a RF Power 650. Best SQ I ever heard in a car hands down. Sitting on that center hump between those cramped rear back seats was shortlived but the eargasm was worth it and was somewhere between a wicked 2ch home hifi setup and having (real) headphones on.

Great videoand great explanation. Is a brilliant solution make a enclosure in the door for the midbass and I want to do it in my Peugeot 208 because I don’t like vibratons and I want a perfect sound in my car. I want to install 3 way Focal PS165F3E and is very important for me the sound quality. It’s a hard work and expensive but I think is necessary. Thanks a lot 🙏 I will follow your channel, you are really an artist 👌🏻

Only car that doesnt have huge issues with door midbass speakers is e39 5series bmw, doorcard is really rigid. Just tiny amount of sound insulation to pockets, new mounting clips. Than ofcourse the outer door skin need some too.

I have a semi truck I'm planning out. I will either put them up high in the ceiling where there is actually plenty of unused space and room, or build an enclosure in and put that in the doors.

Hello from Audio Advisors

Thanks brotha

The woman who sings "No ordinary Love" is pronounced "Shah-Day"

While I agree a door will always be inferior to a proper enclosure, I hope to change your mind about MB in doors. Project upcoming in 2/24 hopefully.

Excellent video. What is your opinion on placing subwoofers on rear side panels on a three door car like mk4 Golf?

I just bought a new 2024 Camry. I'm looking to change out the stock speakers. Video is right on time.

"The Very Thought of You", by Michael Buble. The opening lyrics can make a subpar doorcard rattle like crazy.

I bought an old 1995 Lexus LS400 as a second car. I'm planning a modest build. The doors have separate speaker enclosures, which I plan on adding sound deadening. I'll probably enlarge the fronts to 6.5 from 5.25. I know its a very old car, but any recommendations of what speakers would work in a small factory enclosure? Also, these have small ports, should I enlarge the tiny ports or seal them and add more power? P. S. I would like to thank you for all your videos that have helped me design and tune in my other car. I have come a long way since the 90's when I just threw a bunch of amps and speakers in. I now enjoy the music again, but for completely different reasons. I still like it loud, but no longer for the sake of just being loud. Thank you.

You're right: everyone who used the closed box will never return to freeair... I was understood it when I made closed boxes on 8 liter for ScanSpeak... I'm happy! I see James's face and it says: the new sound is more accurate and balanced, but the "life has disappeared" in it... this is predictable when using high equalizer values... this is a useful video, Peter, thank you!

Interesting, but for me its a commuter car and with all the road and traffic noise I am not expecting the same fidelity I get from my home system. Its good enough for the amount of time I spend in it and all the noises that enter the cabin.

Miss your stuff my guy🎉🤜

Nice video Peter! Brax ml3 you say nice midrange, What midrange would you recommend for the best price/quality? Thank you

If you had a car you wanted to keep stock appearance wise and thus did not want to build enclosures, would a good alternative be to move the midbass production to the rear shelf via DSP? I know a lot of rear shelves open up to the trunk, would that mount of air make it ineffective for that frequency range?

I got all the PS SOUNDS demo, SQ and IB tracks! Cancelled the siriusxm garbage sounds! THANKS

Another good song is A Perfect Circle - The Package. The opening of that song has crazy midbass. That is the one song that makes me hate that I went through so much effort to build door enclosures. It makes my passenger door rattle SO BAD. 🤬 Soon I will do IB kicks.

I have a Mini Cooper and the underseat subs 8” are ported and chuffing when high volume is annoying. Have you ever fix a mini under seat speaker enclosure?

I will never go midbass n the doors again for a proper system. I have mine in the kicks and any future car will be cut according if no oem space exists. The difference is night and day.

Hola saludos tengo un jetta mk5 con el mismo problema. Coloqué debajo de asiento FOCAL ISUB TWIN al sistema 3 vias activo.Por que no tengo un pssound en mi zona 😢.

Peter, has anyone tried spot welding sheet metal supports between inner and outer door frame to stiffen it up? Kind of encircling the driver like pillars? Depending how low the window comes down of course.

Build the Right Enclosures !!! Resonate Free is the Way to Be!!!

I live in california. Who do you recommend to evaluate and tune my system? Great segment.

I would really love to have you listen to my car… Maybe you remember… I got in touch some times ago to get my car built by you… Distance was sort of an obstacle and I had a build made in Germany. The mids are in the doors…I made the test with this Blue Monday song, wondering and I have actually been really surprised… It comes out really good !

There was a guy in the US just this past week on FB showing how he put JL Audio 6” w3 subs in the front doors of a truck and he swore they sounded amazing. I laughed so hard. He definitely doesn’t know how to measure never mind eq(Tune) but he was passing on a false message and I hope people go to the correct channels to properly educate themselves. FB seems to be a sespit of false info and average audio shops around the world. This is the only place the world needs to come to.

Is there coming a build vid on this car😁

Hi Peter, The song by the band Moloko with the song "Time is now" is also a very good song to discover possible vibrations. Have you ever tried it?

I'm hoping to get The Suzuki demo someday...

ive got 8 inch peerless sls mid bass speakers in my doors,tons of deadening and i built the baffle really rigid but i want to do it right and cut my bottom cards,i have spares so no big deal,but i need to find the right 8 inch mid bass to go in some sealed enclosures,i wrote peter on face book but he's too busy,we used to talk a few yrs back but anyways,so here it is DOES ANYONE know some good 8 inch mid bass speakers,the peerless sls is actually labeled a sub,but lots of the ones i look at says. subwoofer/mid bass so i dont know, any tips guys,holler back soon its already getting hot outside ughhhh

Ohh. For tidal aya sound tracks and Test sounds. Only found 1. ……

Hmm what do you think about rear footwells?

Honestly, I experienced this in my Navigator’s doors. The CDT Midwoofers simply did not sound properly. I finally posted a sound demo on my channel AFTER I replaced them with much shallower Recoils, and while it sounds great now, the midbass is sort of lost. Sooo, now, do I: build midwoofer pods on both kicks? Do I do one 10” IB on passenger side for midbass? Questions questions.

Have you done anything in a Smart fourtwo smart 🚗 car. 451

That's mostly door construction. Never been impressed with VW, American, Subaru, Nissan, etc. Luxury and expensive cars often either reduce or fix this entirely. Different materials have different resonating frequencies which are difficult to manage with conventional techniques. The most impressive technique I've seen is chaining different materials together that cancel eachother's resonance out. It takes some engineering, like tuning the sound of the exhaust, but a valuable feature no doubt.

Does this really mean even 2 liter enclosure is better option than original place in door?

1. Q: What do good midbass drivers do? A: They move A LOT of air. So, IF you are limited (for whatever reason) to using midbass drivers in the OEM door locations, FFS, CUT OUT & REMOVE the Highly Restrictive OEM Speaker GRILLS so ALL of that air can actually be transferred into the CABIN and not be restricted and converted to Resonance & Vibration in the door cards/panels! This ALONE will solve a lot the issues with the door cards resonating! Even using good acoustically-transparent grill cloth over an aftermarket minimalist/non-restrictive metal honeycomb mesh grill is WAY better than 95% of the restrictive OEM factory door speaker grills. This is also advocated by multiple SQ World Champion Brian Mitchell Having a restrictive grill in front of the speaker cone is essentially the same as using an Aperiodic Membrane in the enclosure for the driver that is improperly tuned...it completely changes the Impedance and response of the driver. Cut out the restrictive grill and you will need to re-tune the system due to this. It also improves the detail and resolution in the midbass response...confirm by listening to any good recording of an acoustic upright bass or any other track that plays midbass from an acoustic instrument with harmonics and resonance. 2. Choose a very low Fs driver for your midbass...~30Hz or below. When doing this, the Qts of the driver is nearly irrelevant and it will work equally well in "I.B." or in a smaller sealed enclosure because you will be using a typical 60Hz-80Hz crossover that is at least One Full Octave above Fs. If you are not playing the driver down anywhere near to its Resonant Frequency (Fs), the "enclosure" is almost irrelevant as long as you are isolating the front and rear waves of the driver. No, you are not going to solve the inherent and unique midbass cancellation nulls that are due the specific dimensions and distances to boundaries in your vehicle, but you can solve much of that by properly using your subwoofer...or a front subwoofer...to fill in those nulls. In one of my valuable classic vehicles, I am not willing to cut metal or do any permanent modifications, so I am limited to using the OEM door locations for my midbass drivers. The single largest improvement to reducing the resonances and vibrations in the doors and door panels was the installation of a full coverage of 1/32" thick lead sheet that was skinned on both sides with soft 1/8" compressable CCF. A precise hole was cut out for the driver and mounting ring, and the sheet was placed onto the outer interior door skin where the 7" Purifi PTT6.5 midbass drivers are mounted. The lead sheet is sealed around the perimeter of the 1.5" thick UHMW speaker ring using butyl rope. I did this modification to just the driver-side door first and then compared it to the passenger-side door using my "Midbass Tourture Test" playlist and the difference was Night & Day. Well worth the effort and expense. Nick at ResoNix Sound Solutions offers a "ResoNix Barrier" product that is premade with this CCF/Lead/CCF sandwhich for this purpose. It also has a very robust adhesive backing that makes installation a breeze compared to the "DIY" solution that I used. It's expensive, but actually not when you add up all of the separate materials and time that it takes to do this a' la DIY. And ResoNix currently has a "BLACK FRIDAY" 20% off SALE going, but it'll probably be offset by the International shipping to those of you in Europe. :( Another question...Peter, in every install that I have seen here on KZfaq and FB, you are still using lightweight B-B Plywood for your midwoofer & midbass driver mounting rings/spacers in the door and elsewhere. Why? Start using UHMW or HDPE polymers, or kitchen/bathroom solid-surface countertop materials (Corian, etc) that are much more dense, heavy, and non-resonant, and which also completely eliminate any question of having moisture issues as well. You can still fabricate these materials using your standard wood working tools (table saw/router, etc.). A heavier/denser mounting baffle or ring will help to further reduce midbass and midrange resonance to the door skin, and you are 100% guaranteed to not have any issues due to moisture. My twopence worth 😜

i recently bought a helix DSP PRO mkII and i don't have a clue on how to set this thing up. I bought the Bluetooth module and downloaded DSP PC-TOOL v4 also. Can anyone help?

Sound deadning in the doors and find whatever it is that's rattling in the doors and take care of it. Just like everything else that rattles in the car.

On the new BMW’s the under seat 8” subs can be a dedicated midbass just by adding a sub in the trunk. It just has to be crossed over preferably actively. Now I’m thinking can we just put in a better quality shallow mount midbass, add a spacer for a bigger deeper magnet or one with a more efficient neodemium magnet.

do you sometimes test or listen to Yello music?

maybe a better door would be a better test, that speaker is mounted on detachable inner panel.

Definitely check out RAW-CAt he’s building a proper sound system and experiments with amp measurements, very interesting content .

My door trim never use to resonate and now it does 😢

What is the best Hi-Fi speaker (I'm looking for some deep bass)❤

HETZ MILE LEGEND VS AUDIBLE PHYSICS TRIDEV WHICH IS BETTER

I would rather install my mid bass with a proper enclosure in a Driver and passenger side door.

Love your videos. Very informative. I'm going to sound like a brainless troglodyte but I've got quick question if that's OK Peter? Can you make a 6X9 sound good in a door or not? The general consensus is that it's a very bad idea but multiple manufacturers have used this kind of set up including Lexus. I presume you'd only go for this if you didn't have tweeters? And presumably you'd generally avoid them in the rear because they could f*ck up the soundstage?

The man indirectly talks a lot and teaches nothing. He managed to end the video.