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Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!

thank you!

I'm glad you found it helpful!

This is great info, explained in s manner that i finally understand hire to fix this problem. Thank you!

Exactly! Thank you for comment

sorry for the delayed response. I considered. that but there are a number of different oxidizers.on the market and i didnt want to give an improper formula. I appreciate your comments!

My guess is to keep adding non chlorine oxidizer then test the combined chlorine until it is ZERO

Great presentation sir. Please keep on teaching and God will bless your work immensely

I have to assume that comes from a chemist. It takes 10x to break down the chloramines so they can be oxidized. More is ok,less is not enough.

I would add 12lbs of oxidizer, that should be enough. You should retest again after 3 days

I am happy to hear that. Most people don't have the time or patience to do that.

sorry for the delayed response.let me know if you are still having a problem

I'd love to know too. Literally in the same boat. All the store keeps saying is use more chlorine.

@@edoliver8686 I hope you resolved your pool issue but in case you haven’t and would like to know what I did to see chlorine in my pool was exactly what the video said. I just didn’t know how much to add so I used a 5 gallon bucket and CalHypo 73% to figure out that I needed about 10 lbs of that stuff to get chlorine levels above 20 (my home testing kit only go up to 20 so I may have been easily above those levels for my test). By following pool store advice I was wasting money anyways by shocking with 4 lbs every week for the past 6 weeks but with 0 chlorine. So I just went all in and added 5 lbs of oxidizer and let the filter run for 5 hours before dumping 12 lbs of CalHypo at night time. I am not sure if that was the correct way of fixing my issue but my other chemicals were at good levels where I could play with this experiment. The chlorine levels stayed high for three days, and now I have been maintaining it at 2 ppm by adding very minimum liquid chlorine every night. I did make sure that the pH was 7.2 so calhypo can be effective. Sorry for the long post but wanted to share my experience after struggling with this for few months. The other option that I started considering was reverse osmosis but didn’t want to waste water or spend 800 dollars before trying my best to resolve this issue.

I apologize for the very late response! For some reason I did not receive a notification when you posted. What Mr Oliver posted is almost exactly what I would have recommended doing. Sometimes it is better to add a little more then may be needed in order to insure you get it right on the first application. if the chlorine is ever too high you always have the option of adding some chlorine neutralizer.

you do want to add chlorine during this process but be aware,that chlorine will turn into chloramines rather quickly. It will help at the initial application to keep the pool from turning green but that is a short term solution. getting rid of the chloramines is your priority.

Most companies do not list cyanuric acid as an ingredient. Basically all chlorine tablets contain stabilizer/cyn acid and sodium dichloro,granulated chlorine, also contains stabilizer.

Unfortunately when you added your 24lbs of chlorine that was not enough to achieve break point chlorination, otherwise you would have removed the chloramines as opposed to raising the level. You did well by adding the oxidizer at first you just did not add enough to remove all of the chloramines. You need to start over adding an oxidizer only until you have the same total and free chlorine level.

Ugh...Sure wish you would have gotten an answer/response!! Did you happen to find out the answer to your question elsewhere?

New numbers today are total 4.8 free 1.8 and cc 3

so sorry for the delayed response, there would be no way to answer that without precise readings

@@crystalclearpools5591 What readings do you need to have?

free chlorine,total chlorine,stabilizer, and phosphates if possible would be helpful to answer your question. ph and the total alkalinity would be useful as well.

@@crystalclearpools5591 Thank you

every pool store carries a different one it only matter that the ingredients are a monopersulfate.

I just let the total chlorine dissipate to zero the reshocked it. That did the trick

sorry for the delayed response,best thing to do is bring a water sample to a local store. you also may want to consider using bromine instead of chlorine in your spa. bromine is effective in a wider range of ph, which is helpful in a spa, and unlike chlorine when bromine is used up the bromous acid can be regenerated

It’s the FREE chlorine you want to focus on measuring and raising. The TOTAL chlorine also includes the inactive/used chlorine (chloramine).

It usually takes a couple of days after adding an oxidizer to get an accurate reading. Once you have gotten rid of the bad chlorine you can add chlorine without the concern that you are adding more bad chlorine to the pool.

The pool does need to be shocked to remove the small amount of chloramines. Make sure you have at least 40ppm of stabilizer and that the phosphates are removed.

Yes. A pool is just a hole in the ground that you throw money into. It won’t likely ever turn a profit. LOL

Is your stabilizer level at least 70ppm? If it is below that the chlorine will be burned off very quickly by the suns ultra violet rays. if your stabilizer level is good, I suggest you have the water checked for nitrates. If th nitrate level is 10ppm or higher, that is likely the problem. The only way to remove nitrates is to remove water. I hope that helps.

@@crystalclearpools5591 I had it checked. I just needed to add about 5 lbs of shock. Weird how I never had this problem in years past. My stabilizer and Ph and alkalinity was all good. Thanks

You need to know how many gallons your pool is. if it is a rectangle, multiply the length x width x average depth x 7.5. That will give you total gallons so you can follow the instructions on the chlorine product you are using.

you have more then 7ppm of bad chlorine,which is alot.Definitely do not add 15 pounds of shock,thats not nearly enough unless your pool is very small.How many gallons is your pool?

​@@crystalclearpools5591 Sorry for the delay. It is 17,000 gallons. Thank you!!

APPROX 1.7 Pounds of chlorine would be needed to achieve 1ppm of chlorine.To reach breakpoint chlorination to oxidize 7ppm of chloramines would take over 100 pounds of chlorine and if you didnt add quite enough the issue would multiply exponentially! You may want to consider draining half the pool,or as much water as you can remove without risking the integrity of the liner, refilling and then repeat. The cost of water will be much less then the cost of the chemicals needed. If you were to try to treat chemically I would add 25# of an oxidizer,wait 48 hours to retest and then continue adding oxidizer.

of the chloramines? you take the total chlorine parts per million reading and subtract the free chlorine parts per million and the difference is your parts per million of chloramines.

The first thing I would do is raise your pH, the water is very acidic which is harmful to the equipment and for swimmers and will lessen the effectiveness of chlorine. You also should remove the phosphates, purchase a phosphate remover. The presence of phosphates is another reason the chlorine is dissipating so quickly. I also recommend you stop using bleach as it is not manufactured for the use in swimming pools. Lastly, once your pH is balanced and your phosphates are lowered I would add 20lbs of cal/hypo at one time which will give you a good free chlorine reading. if you decide to add lets say 5lbs 4 times instead of adding it all at once you will likely have combined chlorine and have to start the process all over.

Your test results didn’t include a CYA level. As much problem as you are having a CYA level of 40-50ppm is critical to your success or failure

in a situation like this you would add just the oxidizer

Yes, you can put in 4lbs of shock just keep in mind you may not get an accurate reading of free and total chlorine for up to 72 hours after adding an oxidizer. Just make sure you retest free and total chlorine after 72 hours.

Same here. I don’t about a pound a day and I still can’t get an accurate stable reading and everything else is balanced and people are Leslie Pool supply just say keep buying chemicals lol

so sorry for the delayed response, if your still having an issue make sure you have at least 40ppm of stabilizer in the water.(also called conditioner)

i apologize we missed this one. are you still having the same issue? if so please send what your current chemical readings are so we can help

monopersulfate

Pool store non-chlorine shock = oxidizer

If you are adding a small or insufficient amount of chlorine at a time you are creatine chloramines (chlorine demand). The best way to avoid this is to add a much larger dose at one time in the hopes of getting a free and total chlorine of around 5ppm from the start. Adding an oxidizer during this process will also limit chloramines.

@@crystalclearpools5591 Thank you for helping everyone regarding this problem. I thought I was going crazy. Shock , scrub walls, vacuum algae and repeat. Add more shock, scrub harder , vacuum longer and hello Mr Algae my ole friend. I live in the tropics, immense heat, humidity and rainy season . I have ordered Poolrx [ the copper container you stick in the pump basket] as prices here on chlorine are more expensive than filet steaks , hopefully I can get this ' Non chlorine oxidizer, and I don't need a huge Peterbilt's worth . My question, if we remove all the chloramines , what calculation do we then do to get the right amount of shock for a 20k pool , i would hate to be the person who undercalculated and stuck the 19 bags in instead of 20 lol

The pool store did recommend the right course of action, an oxidizer is exactly what you need. However, it sounds like it just wasn't enough. I would recommend you add 5lbs of oxidizer and then before adding any chlorine retest and make sure that your total and free chlorine reading are the same. Continue to add an oxidizer until the total and free are the same then you can introduce chlorine into the pool.

Just the total chlorine dissipate to zero the reshock. Since both total and free are at 0, the shock actually works.

Everything else is balanced on the pool

I apologize for the very late response. If you have this issue again, make sure your pool has at least 40ppm of stabilizer, also called conditioner.

You may not have sufficient stabilizer/conditioner. Check your CYA level and add enough cyuronic acid to reach 40-50ppm. This will help maintain a residual of chlorine sanitizer with just small additions every few days

you want to add a non chlorine oxidizer. There are a few different types but look for something whose main ingredient is potassium monopersulfate

@@crystalclearpools5591 after I added chlorine shock chlorine improved but then 3 days later again both free chlorine and total chlorine low. Do I need to add stabilizer like cynuric acid to help retain chlorine in sun. I also started using sum cover ro protect from debris and increase temperature and also protect chlorine loss in sun.

@@TheArunAgarwal yes, you do need to add a stabilizer to help maintain a chlorine reading

@@crystalclearpools5591 is stabilizer a similar product than an Oxidyzer? I know it’s not similar to a non chlorine oxidyzer.

@@ivenmndoza6336 No, stabilizer is not similar to an oxidizer. Stabilizer is used in order to keep the suns ultraviolet rays from burning off the chlorine prematurely and is not a sanitizer or oxidizer

in Lamens terms, it is used up almost immediately and turns into bad chlorine,adding to the issue

Though that is not actually an "official" term, it is what that means.

Have you determined your total and free chlorine readings are in the proper range? If yes, test for phosphates and nitrates. If there are phosphates they can be removed, however if there are nitrates, depending on how high, you will need to drain water from the pool.

@@crystalclearpools5591 total and free chlorine are zero, ph and alkalinity are balanced, phosphates are high. No nitrates.

@@ryandavis1815 That's your problem then, you need to remove the phosphates. Here is our video on how to go about this. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htaTi5ilxLbFqmQ.html

@@crystalclearpools5591 any special products to do this, or just shock or try an oxidizer then shock

@@ryandavis1815 you need a phosphate remover

Just because the water looks good does not mean it is balanced. How much chlorine did you add and what are your total and free chlorine readings now? You only need to add an oxidizer when the total chlorine is 2ppm or more greater then free chlorine.

@@crystalclearpools5591 4 lbs. 18k pool. it showed traces on both only maybe it's the filter cartridges maybe time to replace pressure keeps going up after I clean, need to clean them 3 x a summer

@@crystalclearpools5591 4 lbs for a 18k pool it shows traces only do you think the filter cartridges? need to clean them 3x a summer time for replacements?

In this case you will definitely need an oxidizer to remove the bad chlorine, you also need to raise CYA and your ph needs to be raised as well.

The pool has a high level of chloramines, you definitely need to add an oxidizer. You also need to raise the stabilizer level to at least 40ppm.

I shocked it but I think I need to breakpoint it so

Can I keep my chlorinater off let the combined chlorine of 5 burn off and then free chlorine and combined chlorine are 0 and then shock it to get free chlorine?

@@sampaolini3377Hey if you have 5 total chlorine and zero free chlorine then you need too add non chlorine shock oxidiser to wake up the chloramines which help free chlorine sanitise . Since you have zero free chlorines I would wait 24 hours re test levels and add chlorine (if needed) Teaspoon at a time. Or like you said you need to shock with chlorine at 50ppm but that is a lot of chlorine and if you don’t do it right you will add to your total chlorine problem. Your chlorine product will tell you how much to put in to shock the water to reach 50ppm, but I would use a non chlorine shock in your case. Hope that makes sense. Or leave the lid off and let the sun burn off all chlorine and start again. Hope this helps

I will assume you have stabilizer of at least 40ppm? If yes, The most likely issue is your pool has phosphates,anything over 1000ppm of phosphates will use up the chlorine very quickly. The other option is your pool has nitrates over 10ppm. phosphates can be treated and removed but if you have nitrates water must be remooved.

@@crystalclearpools5591 Thanks for the advice, I'll see how I can check for phosphates and nitrates. Free chlorines holds on for the night (going from more than 10ppm to around 3) and do not last the day despite several consecutive shock treatments. During the process, I overshot my stabilizer levels so I need to dilute the pool.

Have you checked for phosphates? Is your stabilizer level at least 40ppm (70ppm if a salt pool)? If both of those answers are yes, check for nitrates. If the nitrates are over 10ppm that could be your problem. Unfortunately the only way to remove nitrates is to remove water from the pool.