Glad I could help

You all prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!

@Shawn Alejandro instablaster ;)

@Daxton Johan thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Daxton Johan it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thank you so much you saved my account !

old ones are proven to work, so a proven example is better for me. I can also exercise mine by running a dry nitrous setup that will cause near instant 15+ AFR

the real way is gain the lambda sensor output from your obd2 data, if other than 1, figure out why

what should you run AFR for e-85 ?

there a few "blow torch" videos where a clear cylinder head is used to see the quench and ignition, and then how a lean conditions forms very quickly

lean burn engines up to 40:1 , so what you say is only true for old engines, and old designs. Modern lean burn engine is built like the industrial GMC V-6 use in dump truck from the 1960's

Run whatever afr nets most power, without seeing detonation or high egt’s. Sometimes the problem is the instruments used to conduct the tuning aren’t adequate enough. Ideally if you could monitor combustion pressure you could tune based off that. Finding the perfect afr is something you have to figure out for yourself. Have to develop your own tuning process.

@@stephenmwyatt2 Get a lambda readout AFR gauge, it shows 1 regardless of the fuel's stoichiometric ratio when balanced. Don't drop below .75, above 1 is lean on any fuel.

You add a "exhaust bung". A lot of evo people just remove the rear(downstream) 02 sensor and replace it with a wideband 02 sensor.

@@BoostedFilms awesome! Thanks

I recommend AEM gauges. You can buy them most anywhere. The gauge pod is a Gruppe-S

My particular prosport gauge seemed off from what my tuners afr gauge was reading(when both were hooked up at the same time). So I switched to AEM.

Walbro install kit should come with one.

Richard is correct, buying a Walbro install kit is the only way i know to find one. www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-pump-install-kits/wal-400-847-walbro-installation-kit

It depends on what you are doing. If your just idling, you want a Stoich AFR (generally 14.7). But wanting Stoich is not always the case. Maximum power (full throttle AFR's) is usually found with a slightly richer than stoich mixture. These are all generalizations and this video is an over simplification. A Mid 13 AFR at WOT(wide open throttle) would most likely eventually lead to an engine failure.

Heck no. At the very most weld in a bung in both pipes. Get one kit. Check one side and then tune it. Once tuned, swap over the o2 sensor to check that side. Cap the side you aren't using. If you got extra money to burn, run 2 sensors and 2 gauges. That would be best but not really worth it in most cases.

Doubt think it has to be. When people dyno cars at a shop and add a wideband to watch AFR’s, they sometimes just stick the sensor a few inches into the rear tailpipe.

@@BoostedFilms cool! I’m getting mines ready to be tuned. the current set up I have is the wide and sensor on the exhaust pipe, just right after the HFC. I was looking into it and I found a lot of differences on where it needs to be. Thanks

if occasional shitty running, probably an intermittent vacuum leak, which is easy to see if you install a temp or perm vacuum gauge, and this is the best gauge for overall engine health, you want a steady vacuum reading

@@stephenmwyatt2 I have almost every gauge you can imagine, all my temps, pressures, vacuum, volt, tach. Everything reads good except it runs poor sometimes, engine has less than 3k miles on it, I bought this gauge I'm going to install it and see where I'm at as far as tuning goes

no vacuum drop during bad running? it would have to drop, so check again @@ArcticAstrophysics

egt much easier for your situation

Vacuuuuum lockkkkkkk

At wide open throttle or just cruising? Cruising, that is just fine. WOT, you got trouble.

Boosted Films cruising, I haven’t got to wide open throttle yet

Boosted Films what should it be around at wot?

@@jeepwk6.5L I'd defer to a professional tuner. But generally speaking, high 10's to mid 12's.

Boosted Films ah yeah the one who was gonna tune it actually got shitty with me so I didn’t end up getting it tuned all the way.

Not sure i understand your question. What setting do you have to select from?

Use Lambda. It makes the correction for you

@@bicylindrico Can I Use Lambda Even If Tuned On AFR?

@@indiobaez3314 yes

Yes you can.

No?

stephenmwyatt2 K... Educate me please.

what do you think a narrow band sensor does, what makes it "narrow band", and why did it ever exist if it sucks? the narrow band is only an average, because it has a slow reaction time, like a butthole thermometer, you need to leave it in your butt for a while basically, a narrow band sensor is either 0 or 1 volt output, as it gets hot, closer to zero, so you are either lean or you are not lean, and it adds fuel if it is lean. Since it works like this, it only corrects itself when it see the 1 volt, so that means you are running rich too often, at least for fuel economy . wide band reacts really fast, at least a good reading every second, so the system can be way more precise, and correct for intake heat, air density, or whatever. If you are using an AFR gauge, it will only have a wide band sensor, the gauge for a narrow band sensor would be a dummy light that comes on when it is above 1 volt although you could wire it all up and it may appear to work correctly , it simply isn't @@BoostedFilms

@@stephenmwyatt2 A lot of crap exist because people will buy it. A narrowband will tell you when you are rich or lean, but with no precision. You can't tune your car with a narrowband 02 gauge they way you can with a wideband. If you find value and use in a narrowband, more power to you.

@@stephenmwyatt2 Narrowbands are actually, much faster than widebands. Every wideband has a narrowband embedded in it as a reference. The output voltage of a narrowband does vary linearly, within a very narrow range ( hence, the name ), centered around lambda 1.0 With an accurate control system, you can maintain the narrowband output at 400-500mv. Which is what a wideband actually does, internally. That said, the linear output of a narrowband is not repeatable as it is HIGHLY affected by EGT and exhaust gas back-pressure, except, right at lambda 1.0.