Wild Country Crack School - Episode 1 - Finger Cracks - with the Wide Boyz

  Рет қаралды 336,950

WildCountryClimbing

WildCountryClimbing

12 жыл бұрын

Wild Country 'Crack School' is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. Over six episodes the guys cover all widths of crack: Fingers, Hands, Fists and Offwidths as well as looking at the skills of gear placement and taping up.
Designed for those who know next to nothing about crack climbing and who want to make their first steps, the videos are made to illustrate what the guys think are the most pertinent points for starting out on each size of crack. They look at how to use hands and feet in the crack as well as gear and overall tips on technique and the way to approach each type of crack.
Importantly, and often overlooked, is the fact that these 'crack' techniques not only allow you to climb routes defined as cracks but this new knowledge makes you a more rounded climber. So if faced with a short section of crack, or a corner or groove you have an armoury and variety of ways of placing your hands to keep you going. These techniques therefore are incredibly important if you are making a transition from indoors to out, when holds move from 'sticking out' to 'going in' and thrusting, poking, camming and jamming become more important than simply grabbing and pulling. ¬
As Tom Randall says: 'Crack climbing well is a fantastic feeling and learning how to climb cracks opens up a world of routes, and indeed some of the best routes in the world: from Brown and Whillans' classics in the UK (try doing Cenotaph Corner or the Sloth without being able to jam) through to Yosemite and Indian Creek in the USA. And remember, the best climbers always have a variety of techniques at their disposal and having a variety of techniques always makes you a better climber!!'

Пікірлер: 70
@HondoTrailside
@HondoTrailside Жыл бұрын
I had a friend who went to Yosemite 40 years ago. He was fit, but a real world 5.4 climber on tricky limestone. He was soon climbing 5.9 cracks. Then he got on a long one, ran out the lead, and could keep climbing, but didn't have the strength to put in the pro. Eventually, he took a 90 foot fall on the rope. Next thing I knew, he was into marathon canoeing.
@averagejoegrows
@averagejoegrows Ай бұрын
wack he never loved climbing then, a whips a whip. If you didnt splat onto the next one
@gamemechanic6390
@gamemechanic6390 2 жыл бұрын
Just found this... the boyz look like babies!! Theyve come a long way, or maybe were all just getting old. Good video!
@atariks1475
@atariks1475 2 жыл бұрын
Thought the same in the first moments.
@atariks1475
@atariks1475 2 жыл бұрын
And Pete sounds quite unfamiliar
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 2 жыл бұрын
@@atariks1475 sounds very congested
@metacum
@metacum 2 жыл бұрын
Remember I saw these vids when they came out. Tom and Pete weren't famous at all, thought I thought they were cool in their own goofy way. And def super solid and inspirational climbers anyway. Yeah, been a minute 😁
@russiawithlove101
@russiawithlove101 10 жыл бұрын
I give this video a... THUMBS UP!
@mertman1
@mertman1 5 жыл бұрын
Thumbs Down is better weren’t you listening. Haha
@princenabby1
@princenabby1 Жыл бұрын
Pete and Tom look so young!
@ripperkon
@ripperkon 6 жыл бұрын
Nice one! Thx for sharing.
@moritzsteiner3063
@moritzsteiner3063 3 жыл бұрын
thx mate good infos specialy the soft boot strategy had a short but hard crack and it worked well also thumb up and down ... never thought about it like u ty
@SuicideHotline123
@SuicideHotline123 7 жыл бұрын
"You become more intuitive about how you place your hands in the crack whether it's thumbs up or thumbs down" and here i was simply looking for climbing advice...
@climbingnewbs1867
@climbingnewbs1867 8 жыл бұрын
Thanks For the Tutorial! Very helpful.
@rxsnh
@rxsnh 11 жыл бұрын
Obrigado pela informação!! os escaladores do Brasil agradecem!! thank you
@mikkel436
@mikkel436 3 күн бұрын
As a 29 year old man, I’m still not quite old enough to watch a crack climbing video with the sentence “thumb up in the crack technique”
@uhessler99
@uhessler99 8 жыл бұрын
Thumbs Up Jams? thats my mix cd title
@christinegerard4974
@christinegerard4974 11 күн бұрын
Very interesting.Thank you .
@frankh3057
@frankh3057 7 жыл бұрын
spicy run-out at the end :)) 5:55
@Pilgrim041588
@Pilgrim041588 12 жыл бұрын
awesome video and great info. thank you. cheers
@Shadowang323
@Shadowang323 Жыл бұрын
Saw Randall at The Creek last week and didnt remember why he looked so familiar, now im here again... Hahaha
@heartunderblade2840
@heartunderblade2840 4 жыл бұрын
You guys got very nice and useful videos!! I want to ask if you guys can share the function that others can add translated subtitles? I am from Taiwan, and many my friends likes your video but some of them can't understand English well, so I want to translate for them.
@Florian-ij6rc
@Florian-ij6rc 8 жыл бұрын
thank you so much!
@kufuffin47
@kufuffin47 11 жыл бұрын
Great! Thanks mates.
@utubevidproducer
@utubevidproducer 9 жыл бұрын
This looks similar to some of the cracks in an area near Hathersage in Peak District.
@simonemapelli
@simonemapelli 9 ай бұрын
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:17 🧗‍♂️ Introduction to Crack Climbing - Crack climbing is a fundamental skill for climbers, offering techniques like finger jams and hand jams for various routes. - The series aims to introduce crack climbing techniques, starting with finger cracks. 01:12 🤚 Finger Jam Techniques - Explains the "thumbs up" finger jam technique. - Emphasizes the importance of twisting the thumb outwards for a secure jam. - Contrasts "thumbs up" with "thumbs down" finger jam and their respective uses. 03:05 🦶 Foot Placement in Finger Cracks - Highlights the significance of finding constrictions in the crack for footholds. - Demonstrates how to position the foot sideways and use knee placement to secure footholds. - Discusses using offset sections of the crack for thin cracks and looking for external footholds on the wall. 04:48 👢 Choosing the Right Climbing Boots - Recommends using softer, well-worn climbing boots over stiff ones for better rubber twisting. - Soft boots may be slightly uncomfortable but provide better performance in finger cracks. 05:30 🎬 Conclusion and Preview - Summarizes the key points about climbing finger cracks. - Teases the next episode's topic: hand cracks. Made with HARPA AI
@hellsangel2005
@hellsangel2005 8 жыл бұрын
these guys are awesome. would love to do an extreme climbing adventure with them. heavy ass backpacks and lots of climbing.. woo hoo
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
@YannCamusBlissClimbing 5 жыл бұрын
Great! What is the music please?
@2rfg949
@2rfg949 Жыл бұрын
does these guys even age? love the music.
@AbsoluteOverkill
@AbsoluteOverkill 10 жыл бұрын
What crag is this?
@foxyluca100
@foxyluca100 11 жыл бұрын
Awesome video; Certainly helped me! Could any one tell please me what the name of the crag that they are at?
@benji7891
@benji7891 4 жыл бұрын
Luca Keushguerian millstone or Lawrencefield I reckon. Both in the Peak District.
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 2 жыл бұрын
Teen Pete!
@BasicBodThor
@BasicBodThor 11 жыл бұрын
Wide Boyz :)
@fisher479
@fisher479 4 жыл бұрын
Whilst watching this couldn't stop thinking, what if you fall backwards whilst your fingers are jammed into a crack? couldn't you lose a finger? crazy....
@HondoTrailside
@HondoTrailside Жыл бұрын
1) Jamming isn't being stuck, some jams used muscular expansion, so you relax, and out she comes, which is also why they can be very exhasuting. Some do involve jaming like a chock stone, but you do it carefully choosing the shape of the hand and the stone to keep it safe. When jams get super hard, on difficult climbs you often have very little to work with, and the difficulty isn't getting stuck, it is getting stuck in at all. But I know someone who lost a finger reaching for a high shelf and caught a ring on the way down. Anything is possible. 2) Gravity works downward, so falling backwards is likely not the situation you are most worried about, or the direction you oriented the jam for the pinch. I don't think in most situations it is the fancy places with perfect cracks that would be the problem. It is crags nobody has heard of or limestone, that gets nasty. You get all kinds of weird shapes. with painful needles and bumps in them. Though usually there are other holds to use. If an accident can happen, someone has probably done it. 3) I have heard of people getting seriously stuck. In the cases in question, two I can remember, it was knees. Mustang tower is the one that I heard about in the climbing press. They were way out there, and way up there. The guy had to sort it out, and eventually he did, but he could still be there. Google tells us stories of amputations on finger cracks. One had the guy in a pin scar which is a pocket left in the rock when pitons were hammered in over and over. So a classic trap.
@BrokenSofa
@BrokenSofa 2 жыл бұрын
Holy shit pete looks young here
@MrConall
@MrConall 2 жыл бұрын
Can anyone tell me the name of the route?
@jdsc100
@jdsc100 10 ай бұрын
anyone know what climb this is?
@KillroyX99
@KillroyX99 8 ай бұрын
Finger cracks really hurt. Any tips on that?
@Savak22
@Savak22 11 жыл бұрын
Thumbs oop, thumbs dewn.
@giulianospera1436
@giulianospera1436 7 жыл бұрын
Bastián Girardi JAJAJAJJAJAJAJAJJA
@doutiful23
@doutiful23 Жыл бұрын
WIDEBOYZ: ORIGINS
@Blaxx112
@Blaxx112 7 жыл бұрын
New Drinking Game: Take a shot every time he says "crack"
@BopjoWebDesign
@BopjoWebDesign 2 жыл бұрын
That all looks rather painful!
@YogurtRed
@YogurtRed 7 жыл бұрын
Game Grumps
@EKOddLink
@EKOddLink 7 жыл бұрын
me too
@josevergara82
@josevergara82 7 жыл бұрын
YUPP zelda gameplay
@yugisosa7133
@yugisosa7133 7 жыл бұрын
sameee
@mattmakescovers
@mattmakescovers 7 жыл бұрын
i'm curious what this post is about. what does this have to do with game grumps? haha
@josevergara82
@josevergara82 7 жыл бұрын
mattmakescovers​ they where talking about the latest metal gear [finger climbing] , if I remember correctly
@KillroyX99
@KillroyX99 8 ай бұрын
The feet on a finger crack dont look much better than a smear. Not much of a jam if it's that small. Tips?
@MarkoPeltola-dl3me
@MarkoPeltola-dl3me 7 ай бұрын
Using crack to get high can quickly cause addiction and you are focusing only to crack after that 🤪
@ExpressThaPanda
@ExpressThaPanda 7 жыл бұрын
Not the crack school I was looking for, but okay
@atti1120
@atti1120 5 жыл бұрын
Looking painful
@matthewlueder2656
@matthewlueder2656 3 жыл бұрын
I climb 5.11b at my gym but can't make it 10 foot up a 5.8 crack
@HondoTrailside
@HondoTrailside Жыл бұрын
Well, on the positive, when you get up higher, your chance of grounding goes down, particular with cracks as you can normally get some pro in.
@giulianospera1436
@giulianospera1436 7 жыл бұрын
my gf could of went to the crack school
@ignismaniaco9935
@ignismaniaco9935 6 жыл бұрын
I'd take a *crack* at it.
@Totalavulsion
@Totalavulsion 10 жыл бұрын
Typing in 'nuts in cracks' brought me here. Disappointed.
@freebee8221
@freebee8221 3 жыл бұрын
nobody ever tells you how to climb down..
@Leto_0
@Leto_0 Жыл бұрын
Pause at the end and use the left arrow key to play the video in reverse lol jk you're right. They never talk about safety either
@frankblangeard8865
@frankblangeard8865 5 жыл бұрын
Meth is the problem in the country not crack.
@dezd1
@dezd1 5 жыл бұрын
Totally irresponsible not wearing helmets.
@maturtlelaza
@maturtlelaza 4 жыл бұрын
shut up
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