Next design you should stamp the end of the primary with "LEFT HANDED THREADS"

Yes it dose. The primary bolt is counter clockwise for tighing.

They are for air circulation to help keep things cool and also for flexability and strength.

We are not done with our testing yet so we haven't got evrything dialed into what we will gain in this kit. We always shoot for better backshifting, Better belt grip, better response.

In a pinch you might be able to but the secondary is so close to the clutch housing there isn't alot of room to get the belt on and off around the secondary with out possibly putting a nic in the belt.

Nice video. Thanks for sharing.Is it possible to slip the belt on without removing any clutch parts. I know I could on my previous atv, but is this different?

So how does it change the clutch hook up? what are the benefits of this kit?

so whats the teeth on the belt for? i didnt see where there was teeth holes on the 2 clutches

Any chance of a sport/trail version?

I'm running Sand Tires Unlimited Desert Tracks 1200s (29x12x15) on MSA wheels.. They are obviously bigger than stock but they seem to be much light than my stock wheels and tires. Since installing them I have smoked two belts after a few rides each time. I seem to have the most problem of slippage on take off once the belt becomes flawed. I mostly ride on a river sandbar and creeks. I'm thinking a clutch kit would help my problem.. I'm thinking the sport utility version would work best but do you guys recommend a different one. Think this would help with burning a belt up so fast?

The torque for the primary clutch and secundary please ?

Donde puedo conseguir o comprar el roller bearing clutch primario?

What it's the torque pr tork fro de primary clutch please ?

And the tool to disassemble?

What primary clutch part number number is that?

Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton: Please help me understand, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM? It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move. Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner? I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM. Dalton technician reply: Well, ..you are wrong. Lol Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner. ..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights. The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase) It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important. The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that. The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results) Thanks My reply to Dalton: Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights. I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it. If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/atangJVn17XNk6M.html I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance. Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use. So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades. Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up. By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended). Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go! Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.

How much is the new helix?

I need the clutch puller for my 2014 wildcat x, this video says use pcp14, but on the epi site it says pcp17, can you confirm which i need thanks!

Do any of these kits work on a 2014 1000 4 seater non X model?

what are the torque specs for the main bolts on the primary and secondary clutch? are there any other torque specs for anything on the bolts that hold the springs in the clutch?

I have a 2014 arctic cat 1000cc 4 seater currently 62 miles on it & this wknd the drive belt broke ordered 2 will arrive this wknd. My question is the clutch plate rattles shakes back and fourth is it suppose to be that way? I am unable to upload my video.

Wher can i get the roller bearing clutch ?

i hate auto atvs,they should make the utv with semi shifts.i had a auto atv couple years ago.and every 3 months had to change the belit.350bucks each time.so i sold that thing.and went back to the semi shifts.never buy autos again.