Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker Font 9A/V17

Рет қаралды 38,458

Күн бұрын

Will Bosi has made the first repeat of Daniel Woods Return of the Sleepwalker (f9A), in Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, Nevada.
The ascent comes just under a month after Will climbed the stand start, Sleepwalker (f8C+), which he suggested should be downgraded from 8C+ to 8C.
#bouldering #willbosi
00:00 He's done it!
00:53 Will's thoughts
01:38 Will's Ticklist
02:11 The grade
03:12 Interview with Will
06:19 What's next?

Пікірлер: 66

@themeatpopsicle 5 ай бұрын

I really appreciate Will's attitude towards grading the tippy top end of boulders

@hyau23 5 ай бұрын

Well that was quick. Now this is journalism speed I like the see

@il24ir 5 ай бұрын

Theres a pretty hard project in red rocks that Shawn Rabatou and Sean Bailey were trying on Shawns YT channel. Would be cool to see Will hop on it and give it a serious effort.

@jonathanyes112 5 ай бұрын

He posted his yt video on Sleepwalker (v15) only an hour ago lol

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

The guy is efficient.

@biomorphic 5 ай бұрын

True, and I commented that we were waiting for the Return of the Sleepwalker... and here it is!

@gatosospechosop3 5 ай бұрын

It will most likely be years down the line, but I have a feeling that Backflip by Vadim will end up being confirmed at 9A/V17. He is such a beast, with more V14 flashes than anyone iirc.

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

It’ll be interesting to see won’t it, just a shame we’re unlikely to in the near future.

@popcorny007 5 ай бұрын

*Blackflip, right?

@gatosospechosop3 5 ай бұрын

Yep, sorry, probably got autocorrected lol@@popcorny007

@gatosospechosop3 5 ай бұрын

@@popcorny007 Yep, stupid autocorrect lol

@Hhkkvh 5 ай бұрын

i really hope terranova gets a v17 grading, to me that would cement adam ondra as the best climber ever without a doubt. Yes i am a adam ondra fanboy

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

It'll be really interesting to see where it settles. I reckon it'll end up at Font 9A simply because it's given Bosi - the demolisher of the Font 9A grade - so much trouble. It'll be great to see him back on it again later this year. All fingers crossed he can do it!!

@alexaverbuch1 5 ай бұрын

There's also Vadim Timonov's 'Backflip' 8C+/9A

@stuffiguess7680 5 ай бұрын

And lombre du voyageur

@alexantone5532 5 ай бұрын

The stand to backflip looks nails too lol

@ArchibaldVonSkip 5 ай бұрын

Isn't it Blackflip?

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

This has been mentioned elsewhere within the comments, but it’s not an outright 9A - it’s a slash grade, by Vadim’s own admission. There’s also the fairly insurmountable issue of Russia being a no-go zone at the moment, so I can’t see it getting repeated anytime soon.

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

It’ll be interesting to see whether this gets any attention. It’s certainly not the most inspiring venue, or at least not when compared to the likes of Red Rock, Font, Lappnor or Chironico, so I suspect it’s lower down on people’s lists as a result of this.

@RedSkyLB 5 ай бұрын

Will with the 3rd ascent

@augustclimbing 5 ай бұрын

Great reporting as always!! I am so happy for Will and stoked that he sent ROTSW... I can't wait to see him on Alphane (and all the others you mentioned!)

@TheCultureProjects7 5 ай бұрын

For someone who’s so weirdly obsessed over these guys as you are, you should probably already know he’s done Alphane….

@adamhaas141 5 ай бұрын

@@TheCultureProjects7 A rock climber referring to another person as "weirdly obsessed?"🤣 Bro, do you even climb?😂 Still, whether you climb or not, you are correct about Will having already sent Alphane.

@TheCultureProjects7 5 ай бұрын

@@adamhaas141 well, yeah…. Have you seen his channel? He’s made 7,videos on will in the last 7 months alone. It’s like TMZ for climbing….. I’d say that’s weirdly obsessed

@adamhaas141 5 ай бұрын

@@TheCultureProjects7 I'm suspecting there's some hidden depth behind the corny double thumbs-up and gleeful gossiping. The man did have Orwell's "1984" in his stack of books before it was removed for whatever reason. Frankly, I don't know what August is thinking, but I have made a couple of observations that suggest to me that at least he is thinking.

@augustclimbing 5 ай бұрын

@@TheCultureProjects7 This is what I get for commenting on videos late at night 😂 In my mind I was envisioning Megatron, but what came out when I typed was Alphane. Thanks for catching my mistake 😊 And hey, I'll take "weirdly obsessed"... I do enjoy climbing and the global climbing community quite a lot 👍🏻👍🏻

@Pete039 5 ай бұрын

What about "L’Ombre du Voyageur" by Charles Albert?!

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

Given the number of questions we've had about it I wish I'd raised it, but for one reason and the next - didn't.

@CedarWright 5 ай бұрын

God that is a nice kitchen.

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

Come round for a brew, Cedar.

@chazott 5 ай бұрын

Bet he would crush Soudain Seul. Emil described it as a crimp climb disguised by slopers! (or something like that)

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

In many ways that’s the one we’re most excited to see him on, so fingers crossed it happens 🤞

@biomorphic 5 ай бұрын

There is also "L’Ombre du Voyageur" climbed by Charles Albert in Fontainebleau. Grade to be confirmed since Charles climbs without shoes or knee pads.

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

It'll be really interesting to see where that settles once a few folk have tried it

@shrill_2165 5 ай бұрын

Regarding Soudain Seul, didn't Lorenzi propose a slash grade initially?

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

He said he was unsure about what constitutes 9A but definitely gave it 9A.

@chazott 5 ай бұрын

It was Nico Pelorson who gave it the 8C+ suggestion

@gd1037 5 ай бұрын

Also it took Nico 2 years to send. His only argument for it being 8C+ over 9A is that he doesn't want to claim he can climb the hardest grade there is, mostly because he feels there are climbers stronger than him. The argument is rooted in humility not comparision to other 9As. Soudain Seul is proving more challenging for the top climbers trying it than Alphane. @@chazott

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

It being located in Font doesn't help either, as it's not a place renowned for getting good conditions. Alphane/Chironico is much more stable in comparison, hence you're able to have more sessions and send goes.

@chazott 5 ай бұрын

@@gd1037 well said. Nico's not wrong, he has a lot of respect for the difficulty of climbs and it's not his first 9A downgrade. He has more experience at 8C+ than the other ascentionists. It could be that some 8C+ are as hard as these 9As, and it's the soft 8C+ that have thown off the scale! But one 8C+ vote doesn't change the consensus. I bet Nico would call all of the 9A's 8C+ if he sent them😆

@Mikkel99 5 ай бұрын

what about backflip in russia?? People always forget to mention that when counting 9a’s

@MS-fg8qo 5 ай бұрын

Sorry but who in their right mind would travel to Russia right now?!

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

As per the comment above, I don’t see many people going to Russia on holiday right now. It addition to this it was a slash grade, so not a true 9A. That said, only time will tell where it settles, but given what’s going on in Russia right now it might be quite a while before we find out.

@mikej243 5 ай бұрын

No strong climber can check out the Boulder to confirm or try it because going to Russia is suicide.

@21nGG 5 ай бұрын

Is there also a Charles Albert 9a?

@Noneymar1 5 ай бұрын

Why are you completely disregard Vadim Timonov and Charles Albert? Both did proposed 9As. Charles even did his current one after his first 9A claim got downgraded which makes the current one even more interesting imo. It’s just weird that some of the climbing media around just ignores them both.

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

We'd argue that what Charles is doing is very difficult to compare to others at the moment. Vadim gave his problem a /8C+ grade, so not full 9A by his own admission.

@Mrperson662 5 ай бұрын

Charles said his latest fingerlock boulder was 9a+ the way he did it and I believe him. It’s kind of nuts, he might be the strongest boulderer in the world

@telkmx 5 ай бұрын

surely when you look at the hold he is pushing thru in some of his projects he is one of the greatest but he climb in a different league without shoes so some climbs may not be 9a for other and the same could be said with or without kneepad

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

@@telkmx It's really hard to judge like-for-like because he's doing something so different. I guess that's why it'd be interesting to see what future ascents make of L'Ombre du Voyageur. No Kpote Only ended up coming down a couple of grades and I do wonder if climbing shoes and knee pads would result in L'Ombre du Voyageur getting the same sort of treatment.

@Noneymar1 5 ай бұрын

@@ukclimbingofficial Big Island Sit Sit isn’t a clear 9A either, since it got 2x9A and 1x8C+ does this make it a 8C+/9A too? Imo, yes. You still include it. With what kind of explanation - that the FA gave it 9A? Include Charles then too. Kinda silly imo

@marka.6879 5 ай бұрын

If rots is low for the grade, then megatron, alphane, and low island sit are going to get a downgrade. Imho as a gumby, i think rots looks second hardest after BoD.

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

It’ll be interesting to see where they all settle. I’m a little less pessimistic, as I think some will stick at 9A - maybe even all of them. At some point we need to acknowledge the current generation have indeed moving things on to the next level.

@sparrowman6077 4 ай бұрын

The books under the knee pads kill me for Soudain Seoul…. Seems like an aid climb at that point 🤷🏻‍♂️ it’s a weird distinction between normal pads and then stuffing books to make your leg longer.

@ukclimbingofficial 4 ай бұрын

It's definitely pretty unusual. I can't imagine it was comfortable to climb in either.

@moogod1185 5 ай бұрын

hahahah no wayy

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

Yes way

@conserve_climber 5 ай бұрын

Will Bosi; the “hipster” climber 👍🧗‍♂️

@coachgarryclimbing 5 ай бұрын

Sounds like Alphane might eventually get a downgrade

@ukclimbingofficial 5 ай бұрын

Possibly, although I wonder if it’s just a case of it being soft 9A. There does seem to be a blurry line between hard 8C+ and soft 9A though, which is something Will has acknowledged, so it’ll be interesting to see where it settles.