hmmm, not so sure this will work. Will you tear your engine apart at the end of the test to inspect the rings?

You should check out the Motor Oil Geeks(Lake Speed Jr.) video he just did with Valvoline about this oil. It's very informative and interesting.

Looking forward to results

I’ve just let the truck warm up a minute before taking off, the noise goes away…. During the winter (November - March) I also plug in the engine block heater when I park for the night. I was going to try some stuff recommended by Scotty Kilmer, but haven’t yet.

Its supposed to take 4 oil changes to work fully. 😅 Archoil seems to work well in my hemi. Hope to see the results.

Had a '97 4.6 truck that I bought 2 years old with 164,000 miles. I used a qt every 800 miles on 5W30 but switching it to Castrol Edge 5W40 got it to about 1qt every 1100 miles. I believe most of the oil consumption was the valve guides/seals. On a long decel or idle, it would give a quick puff of smoke out the tailpipe when the throttle was blipped. It also had cold start slap that went away at some point. I always assumed the skirt broke off, but who knows. Sold it with 330,000 mostly trouble free miles. Since it was pretty weak, it spent lots of hours a WOT especially with a car trailer behind it. It was a great truck. I don't think it'll help your oil consumption, but are you familiar with Berryman's B-12 ring flushes? Me and a bunch of Toyota, VW, Audi guys have seen huge improvements on oil consumption after doing it. All low tension piston ring cars with small piston oil drain holes. I did a '17 Audi 2.0 that went from 1 qt every 250 miles to well over 1000 miles a quart. Looking forward to your updates on the Valvoline.

So strange hearing this as my truck has 213k and it's super quiet. No leaks or burning oil, nothing.... Maybe I've just been lucky? I've done the exhaust manifolds and gaskets as expected, but nothing else. Just been running Valvoline Max Life full synthetic every 3k and changing all fluids like I should.

My 4.6L 2v is making quite a racket when starting after sitting for a while. Im pretty sure it needs a new timing chain and guide. Its at 202k miles and nothing has been changed. Only have changed external parts, exhaust manifolds, oil filter housing, intake, thermostast, and stuff like that. It needs a timing chain and guides and the oil pan gasket is leaking, but unfortunately it looks like to replace the oil pan gasket on these, you have to either unbolt and lift up the engine, or pull th3 transmission, due to the cross member going right under the oil pan, you can drop it enough to clear the oil pick up tube and screen.

Wonder how long it would take to clean out those ringlands using the new "Valvoline Restore & Protect" chemistry attack? Anyway, a proven way is to use "Valvoline Premium Blue Restore Gen2 10w-30" (VPBR) that has been used by truckers to clean the ringlands for the last 6 years now. (It has to say "Restore" in the name, or else you're getting their regular motor oil, if you seek this at Cummins dealerships make sure they understand.) .. It works. ... They use incredible base oils (all PAO, POE, & AN) in that, looks like a race oil, as part of their secret sauce ingredients, as the patents and MSDS sheets show. .....Their new "Restore & Protect" is a different animal targeted at gasoline engines here, yet they might be using some chemistry tech from VPBR, who knows. ..... VPBR is only available through Cummins dealers (last I heard), and does cost something like $70 per gallon (4 quarts), so not super-cheap for people on a tight budget. But it really aggressively cleans out ringlands of carbon gunk, so worth it to anybody who doesn't want to tear down an engine (expensive).

Valvoline Restore & Protect cut oil consumption on my Toyota 2AZ-FE in half after 1000 miles, so it seems to be working. I’m skeptical about it fixing piston slap.

I think the skirts are collapsed on a few or even just one piston. Meaning the diameter of the piston at the skirt is worn, scored so its undersize just enough that it rattles cold but expands enough to go away when it heats up. Unless its hard on oil consumption the rings are likely not too bad. Thats the usually the sinario. I have one as well that cold rattles, but its got over a quarter million miles on it and had very high miles when i got it. Just be easy on it till it warms up. The two valve Tritons are otherwise pretty decent engines. Oh just be sure you torque the spark plugs to the new higher torque spec! Lol

The bores could be excessively out of round from the slap now. Looking forward to hearing about the results.

I just added it to my wife’s 2010 Toyota Prius with 164k Hopefully it will help it to last many more years

What about Amsoil signature series? That oil 5w-30 from Amsoil has stopped my Prius oil comsuption at 226k miles.

Just curious what oil were you running before?

As a 3rd generation mechanic, it will depend on the cause of the Piston slap. A loose piston pin or wrist pin or an incorrect piston/rod clearance will not be fixed by oil. Sounds like the skirt may be slightly undersize compared to the bore. That would explain as it warms up it goes away. The piston expands faster than the bore. Thicker oil in that case would minimize the sound at start up. If using 5w-30 try 10w-30.

I am really curious to see the method they use to reduce oil deposits.

I watched another video on this and, apparently you have to watch it as it can work too good and potentially clog an oil filter in 500 miles, I would use some gunk motor flush first, then switch to Restore and protect if needed.

I like to do a clear flood for about five seconds before starting my engine first thing each day.

How’s the test coming along?

I'm guessing or at least hoping that you've already installed an oil catch can in order to help with capturing some of that blow by so that shit doesn't go back into your intake manifold. If you're burning one and a half quarts of oil change or whatever you said, that's definitely excessive oil consumption and you likely have some oil carbon buildup inside your oil ring. There's actually two different types of carbon buildup within a gasoline engine that Valvoline has done a lot of research and development because they're actually believe it or not they are the only engine oil distributor that has their own engine testing facility. This was a shock to me because I thought every oil distributor or oil manufacturer if you will all have a testing facility in order to better create a proper mixture of oil additives etc. Valvoline had already made an engine engine oil for diesel that does the same thing. There's carbon buildup from gasoline combustion and then you've also got your blow by gases that will pick up small particles of engine oil and recirculate them back through your intake manifold to be burned rather than vented to the atmosphere. There's also a thin layer of oil leftover piston moves downward. It was for many years that the carbon buildup was all from the fuel.. the fuel companies have addressed that situation and corrected it as long as you're running a TIER 1 gasoline there shouldn't be any issues with carbon buildup other than the engine oil. So if you install a quality catch properly on the dirty side of your engine, which is usually bank 2. In doing so the catch can should innate almost 100% of blow by contaminants from your crank case. Your engine engine oil will also last longer by not having to worry about oil delusion for any of the blow by that may contain fuel. Good rule of thumb is if you're having to use an engine oil additive then you may have to check to see if if you're using the proper engine engine oil because seafoam is absolute garbage for your engine followed by RISLONE. The fact of the matter is if you're not 100% sure of the additive package in your existing engine oil and then you go and add an engine oil additive then it is possible to worsen or create a problem that may or may not have existed. Because of the service bulletin you mentioned about Ford putting out I don't think that that was the case that you made things worse. However, I Strongly suggest installing a catch can as well as the restore and protect engine oil. Do not use an engine engine oil flush! For added protection, I would recommend a PUROLATOR BOSS OIL FILTER. It has by far the best Features of all the oil filters I've researched and used. It's a little bit more expensive but you're likely going to be taking small amounts of carbon out of your so you wanna make sure you're using a high-quality oil filter as well as keeping an eye on the oil pressure. If it goes up too much then you know you've got a restriction created by carbon particles removed from your oil piston rings. This will be a good indicator that the engine oil is working because it will become darker a lot quicker than normal. as far as the piston skirt slap is concerned that's just the nature of the beast. Unfortunately Ford used some customers as a guinea pig with their shorter piston skirt, design in order to try and increase fuel economy by reducing drag within the engine by reducing the weight of the piston in hopes of decreasing the friction. I believe once the oil is cleared up, you should notice a significant decrease in piston skirt slap because there should be a fine film taking up the space like you mentioned, as well as the expansion of the components within the engine. Never deviate from the recommended oil viscosity of your engine unless it has 200,000 miles or more on it then it might be possible to go up a bit thicker oil.. hope this helps a bit. Take care and good luck.

Have you changed the pcv valve? I've seen that be responsible for a lot of oil consumption on the mod motors

I miss my 99 f150 5.4. It had a weeping oil leak btwn the head & block, passenger side rear. Leaked about 1 qt every 4,000 miles. Ran great, otherwise. Solid truck.

Any update?

Collapsed piston skirt causes piston slap-sound because of the skirt's failure to expand to its proper diameter so as just to glide along the cylinder wall. It is difficult to imagine how an oil can restore a collapsed skirt damaged by overheating for instance. A slightly collapsed skirt can be cushioned by a thick oil but an overly collapsed skirt can not be prevented from oscillating about the piston pin regardless of the thickness of the oil. So, how can an oil restore a "collapsed skirt"? I always imagine the piston skirt to be "cam-ground & barrel-shaped" but eventually assumed the roundness of cylinder liner (upon reaching operating temperature) with nothing between them but oil. My usual solution to piston slap is piston replacement assuming the cylinder liner is still healthy.

So how do I fix my piston slap & timing slap on a 2010 5.4 Triton

The 5.4l 3v timing chain and cam phasers are tensioned by oil pressure it uses oil pressure to tension up and once up to op temp it'll smooth out it's normal.

My 2000 Z71 Silverado 5.3 that currently has 190000 miles on it also has the piston slap which I've owned since New depending on when it's cold after it heats up it also goes away .The truck runs like a champ always have ran Synthetic mostly Mobile One but I switch it up time to time

Piston slap I don’t know if it’s the same as wrist pin slap but I know for a fact wrist pin slap. You don’t hear it when you start the vehicle it’s/after the oil warms up.

Nice bourbon collection

Use a higher zddp oil like redline.its a Pao/ester blend. If that doesn't help there isnt another oil on the market that will.

Curious about it myself if it works and doesn't cause engine problems where you need a new engine because it'll flake away and cause problems. Or it's just snake oil, but I think the issue you have exhaust leak tho

Try restore

One thing if it had to error you want piston slap over the same amount over tight!

It may help a little. You know 100% is a lie.

You can live with 1 qt every 1,500. Try Mobil 1 10w30 and forget those additives and cleaners. A bottle of Lucas injector cleaner is ok. Try to find Mobil 1 Red top 15w50.

Additives will only ruin your engine. Try Mobil 1 15w50 if you can find it.

No..Piston slap is a clearance problem between the piston/rings/cylinder wall...Of course between cold and operating temp..Piston slap noise varies..No Remedy in a bottle..Rebuild with proper machining....

Those are not 5 gallon jugs. 😂😂😂

They are NOT 5 gallon !!!!!

Typical Ford . People accept it or sell it . I sold lol

I wiped a cam on that shitty Valvoline. Changed back to Mobil 1 and no more blown engines.

Waste of time watching this.