What about the lever nuts???? Have it it. Here they are. amzn.to/35dSE1N Must be made of gold.

We have been using the push-in connectors in the trade for over 15 years. They are proven technology, No worries. Electrical contractors were nervous about using them at first, but they are quite commonly used today with minimal concerns. Not only are they faster to use, they also save space in the box. Russ-Journeyman Electrician from Oregon.

Here in Germany we use wago connectors since 1974, know a day's all electricians use same and I have never seen a failed wago connector.

kids walk in the door: "Mom the weird guy behind the plastic is talking to himself again. When is he going to leave?"

I use the small connectors at work (Electrician in Denmark) Never had a failure with those connectors. True we use "Wago" connectors. Good company and copper inside

This guy went from shy guy showing us what it's like day to day as a handyman ... To the greatest diy handyman showman there is...... Well done to you Sir..👍🇦🇺

The high pitched voice of the naysayer gets me every time. Love it.

Your explanation about how the push in connectors fail after heat cycling a lot is spot on. Had one melt itself in my panel a couple weeks ago. Made a video about it if you want to check it out. Replaced it with a wire nut. I plan on getting rid of the rest of the push ins in my panel.

In testing, the ten inch wire alone had .0049 ohms. Wire nuts had .0045 ohms. Wago had .0055 ohms. Push-in had .0055 ohms. I would never quibble about only 11% increase in resistance. A poorly stripped and twisted wire nut could do the same. A long run of wire can have 11% more resistance. That difference is only 0.0006 ohms.

Love all your content. I'm a fellow handyman myself. Just learning new ways to do stuff, adding new skills to my tool box, and just having fun. Keep the good work!

I agree with wire nut connectors having more contact area vs the wagos, especially for voltages 110 V & above but I prefer the wagos for control low voltage wiring. They are very convenient for service work.

Hi HandyMan. Just have to tell you that I have 8 electrical contractor's, 2 Inspectors in my family. We have done electrical for 55 years. One of most important things as an electrision is to make a tight secure wire nut " Merrett " connection. I admire your decision to be the best you can be. Love watching your repairs. Cheers

Thanks Handyman! This video (and other videos of yours) gave me confidence to crawl up into the attic above the garage and install two new outlets in the ceiling so I could install some new LED shop lights. It's probably because I haven't done it a thousand times like yourself, but I found the twisting of the wires to be somewhat difficult. I learned to start the wires with all the insulation (coating?) at the same mark and begin the twist at the insulation, not at the end. I'm not sure if this is how you do it, but it seemed to work well for me since I was beginning the twist closer to the point where I was holding the wires. Either way, your videos are great! And I really appreciate you taking the time to make them!

I'd grant you that twisting a small number of wires together and then applying a wire nut usually makes a better connection. However, Wago connectors and the like have their advantages. It is much easier to modify the circuit, if necessary, down the road. The installation time is about 1/3 that of wire nuts. Typically less wire is needed to make the connection, so boxes are filled less. Additionally, the wires will rotate in the connector, so the wires tend to seat themselves into the box better when you push the connector into the box. With less clutter it is usually easier to look at the box and understand the circuit. As a plus, there is a test point readily available on Wago connectors, so you don't have to take the connection apart to measure voltage. And, newer style Wagos are clear, so it is pretty easy to inspect for issues.

I normally use wire nuts for most connections but the quick connects are great for installing LED lights.

Good video, love your content! I feel like you got started talking about the 15A vs 20A outlet reasoning but stopped short though. The reason folks don't have several of the 20A outlets (NEMA 5-20) on a circuit is to dramatically reduce the chance of circuit overload. The plug attached to products is determined by the device's power needs, and anything that needs from 0 to 15 amps has the 15A plug (NEMA 5-15). Homes are full of devices that use 1 amp (approx) or less - tvs, cable boxs, lights, game console, chargers, laptops, computers, etc... You could very realistically be using 10+ of these items simultaneously on a single circuit and still be well under the 20A limit of the wiring which is a good thing; so having several of the 15A duplex outlets on a circuit isn't usually a problem. Any device that would have the 20A plug (NEMA 5-20) means the device needs more than 15A of power (between 15 - 20 amps) in normal operation. These are serious devices with serious power needs, they require a different outlet to make it super obvious the needs are greater and prevent you from instantly overloading that previous circuit with 10+ devices. Even a dedicated 20A circuit with a single DUPLEX NEMA 5-20 outlet means 2 of these heavy duty devices could be plugged in and used simultaneously, and 15A (or more) + 15A (or more) is > than the 20A circuit which means overload / fire / breaker trip / etc... That's a single duplex outlet, let alone putting several of these on a circuit. Folks normally only install the 20A outlet if they have a specific device that needs one, and they may argue that they only have 1 of these devices so putting multiple 20A outlets around the circuit gives them flexibility of where they can use this one heavy duty device safely. While true, that also means they could very likely be plugging in other smaller devices on that same circuit that's already near capacity bringing it into overload. That one monster 18A device + a weak corded 3A drill brings you over 20A. Personally, i'd only do a duplex (or a couple duplex) 20A outlet(s) on a 30A circuit so at least there's a little wiggle room for more than 1 device to be used.

Love this video. Been working in electrical service for 6 years now and one of the main issues I come across is connection issues with the stab-lock connection on the back of an outlet. The push connectors are no different. I use those push connectors for only one thing, light fixtures with 16 - 22 AWG inside. That's it. If you use these for 15 Amp circuits, you will get a good few years out of them but eventually, the tension on the springs fails and causes damage. He is exactly right, over time heat from the amps wears down these connection points to where wires, devices, and boxes get burned up. I have yet to repair a connection point where the installer twisted the wires and capped it with a wire nut. If you use a wire nut and twist the wires like shown in this video, that connection will last a long time.

Cramming a GFCI into an old metal box makes me feel like Ron Jeremy.

simpler answer: a "15 amp receptacle" is, unless it is a quickwire model, is a 20 amp rated assembly made to use with 15 amp plugs.

Just found this channel. Great stuff. Im into cars and theres tons of good car youtubers that take you down and dirty with them with their knowledge and work, but when i try to find home improvement stuff i ways run into some boring school training stuff. And u dont just install, you explain and educate. This channels awesome!

I've just watched two videos about outlet wiring; one touted the convenience and speed of push-in connectors, and this one that promoted wire nuts. I am leaning toward wire nuts for all kitchen and bathroom circuits (hairdryer, refrigerator,, coffee pot), and push-in connectors for low-wattage outlets such as LED lighting. I am leaning toward wire nuts for most receptacles because you never know if you (or your children) might wind up plugging in a 1200 watt space heater, or a 500-watt sun lamp or a hairdryer.

There are 15A simplex receptacles. All of those devices shown were rated at 20A feed thru.

You have become my favorite "number one home improvement KZfaq channel in the world". Every morning I search YT for the latest upload from The Handyman. You making learning this stuff fun. Bravo

I've been wiring outlets and switches for close to 60 years, I'm not a licensed electrician but have worked as an industrial electrician. When you first wire something up the wires are usually bright and shiny but as time goes on that bare wire tarnishes and that does not conduct very well, best to be safe and do whatrver allows greater contact area. Those stab connections might be fine for very light loads (a single bulb) but you can't be sure someone won't plug a toaster oven into a lamp receptacle. I still use wire nuts and put receptacle wiring under the screw head for maximum contact area and low resistance, this ensures nothing will overheat - overheating can cause a fire..

"they create the information in their own mind". I'm dead LOL

As an electrician in the UK, it's crazy how different it can be done

In this episode we learn about sports with examples of homeruns and knockouts, we go south of the border for some Spanish lessons, then a quick stop in the workshop lab for some dissecting of electric push connectors, before an in depth discussion on metallurgy where we theorize about spring steel fatigue over time and what role heat plays as well. Enjoy!

What about on a can light box? I've been seeing those lately with the push to connect wire nuts already installed. Would you still cut them off and install the twist nut?

I work in a school and I use the line splice style push in connectors for the control wires on light fixture ballasts. They save a ton of time on stuff like that and there isn’t too much heat on those wires anyway. Always nut the hot and neutral though.

"...it's like talking to flat earthers!!" lololol. He knows them! Thanks for my morning laugh!

The insertion hole in the receptacle has the same leaf type grabber. I never use them. I wire to the screws and I use wire nuts.

Among your vast skills and knowledge you are a Language Translator Also. WTG Mr.. Handyman! Never a dull moment watching your channels. You are a saint for not throwing up your hands for the repeatable questions you get. Smooth Operator.

Your high pitched voice segments are my favorite part of KZfaq.

I like the push on connectors because they’re flat and take less room in the box. I had to use them when installing bulky smart switches into crowded switch boxes. With twist on wire nuts I couldn’t get the switches in. I had to remove them and replace them with push ons in order to get the switches in.

The push in connectors might last up to 10 years in desert heat. The clear plastic disintegrated when used in a ceiling for can lights. The home might have been 12 years old. Replaced with wire nuts. But wago might have been a good alternative too.

You are exactly right!!! The situation you describe already exists with duplex receptacles. I have been an electrician for many years and have found many issues with loose connections when the push-in connection is used on the back of a duplex receptacle. Over time they come loose due to heating and cooling cycles as you described. Often I find "dead" receptacles that stop working due to an open circuit when this type of connection has failed. Call me old school but I always loop the wire around the screw connections on the sides of a duplex receptacle. Yes push-in connections are fast but its not quality work! I may take longer to wire a house but it is a far more reliable connection. Good video keep them coming.

re: connectors - The old guys used to say the same thing about wire nuts when they were newer compared to soldiering - weaker connection, will fall apart over time, and on and on. When's the last time you saw anyone soldiering and taping a connection in a wall box????

I have had plenty of failures with twist caps over the years. Nothing is perfect. I like the new connectors. They save plenty of space in old boxes.

You stepping up your game. I have watched you for years. More energy, explaining things in detail!!! Great job

20 Amp receptacles are heavier and better, especially when you are moving plugging in cooking appliances and moving them around from one spot to another. You don't have to but I do. Retired IBEW 292.

I feel like the shark bite and the wago are on 2 different levels

New sub here, first video I have ever watched of yours and I only subscribed because of how your shop looks. Trashed, fire hazards everywhere, booze bottle on the floor, gun on the bench and nothing organized. All that says you are in control of your own life and that you are always busy. Mine is the same way and I can never get it cleaned up but I know where everything is so its all good.

LOVING that under cabinet lighting 👏🏼👏🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Twisted is ALWAYS better on the #1youtubehomeimprovementchannelintheworld

Thank you 🙏🏽! Someone recently recommended the push connectors to me. I was gonna store the wing nuts I bought and buy the push in, but I like to do a little research before I deal with anything I’m unfamiliar with in the electrical realm.

Yes! Finally someone who understands why you don’t use push in’s! It’s all about surface area! This goes for wiring devices, that‘s switches and outlets for the DIY’ers. I’ve replaced dozens of devices that were backwired and the connections Broke down over time and caused a failure. Side wire all of your devices!

I've had those push connectors fail a few times. It happened inside the house, but on exterior walls. last winter it got super cold, I didn't have much in the way of insulation. the wire contracted enough to loosen up and stop working. the clamps didn't fail and there was no safety issue, but it did open the circuit.

More chipmunk voices please!! I think it's great, plus it keeps my daughter interested enough to not get upset that I'm watching Daddy shows.

So I just added a socket in my garage. I Spliced from a nearby 12 gauge wire leading to my bathroom. I used those little yellow in-sure connectors. I plugged my portable A/C and it's not running right. plugged A/C into a different socket and its running fine. Could the in-sure connector be the issue? thanks

i became a renter and soon after began paying rent with home repairs, installations, etc... found out I have a liking for miscelanious home repairs, from plumbing and electrical to drywall and flooring. Now I'm considering this life as a handyman and I must say your channel is a wealth of knowledge. hoping to develop the skill sets to market myself as a handyman but still feel a tad inexperienced. Anyways, looking forward to binging your channel.

Ah Ha - our video on the Wago 221’s went nuts after you dropped this - Thanks for the traffic. FYI electricians in Europe love the Wago’s - twisting wires together gets frowned upon as it makes testing in the future difficult.

Bah! Push-in are just as good as twisting. They have been through rigorous testing and have proven themselves time and again. Not to mention that they save a ton of time and are reliable as all hell.

When you talked about GFCI's I almost had a heart attack because I forgot whether I put the wires in right today. But then I remembered the Line is always on top and I plugged them all in at the top. Since I do Commercial I don't really have to worry about the load very often, because it's habit to always wire from the top I always know the line/power is on top.

What do you think of using Wago Conductor Compact Splicing Connectors

0:30 LMFAO! Pure gold. 🤣

Since in Europe we never had wire nuts and the alternative to the WAGO push ins are screw terminals WAGO is the only way.

Great info. Thank you! Cant wait to check out the rest of your content. What about using push-in connectors for smaller gauge wires? Like for a florescent light ballast.

I'm glad you fell on the side of wirenuts. I'm a retired master electrician of 38 years. The twisted wire under a wirenut is the best, safest, surest and most professional way to do it. If you can't twist four number 12's and put a wire nut on it then the box you installed is too small. That's why they make different size boxes!! Surprise, surprise! Plan your job and use the correct size boxes, conductors and methods. If you fail to plan your plan to fail.

The principle is the same with pushing the wires in to the back of a receptacle. I always tighten the wires around the screw.

I'll never use any kind of connector with spring steel or brass/copper as the mechanism that holds in the wire. Used the push in connectors on the back of switches and outlets in our family vacation cabin we built and now 20 years later they are all failing as the spring just loses it's tension over time and causes heat which causes failure. It's loop the wire and use the screws to hold it from now on, takes more time but far far safer as failure pretty much will never happen.

Some outlets have stab connectors that you can use instead of the side screws - same type connection as the push in connectors. I have seen many of the stab connector outlets fail. When they fail, there is usually low voltage at the outlet.

I'm just an auto mechanic and home DIYer and for what it's worth, I would have to agree with Handyman. Even though the Wagos might work perfectly, to me the contact surface area and clamping of the wirenuts give you the best shot at a connection that won't fail. I have used the Wagos on some replacement porch lights because there was only 1½ of wire to work with. It was also a little difficult to make sure I had the stranded wire from the fixture in correctly. (Box says they can be used with stranded wire) Also, I never use the backstab connector on an outlet. My favorite outlets are the kind that you kinda backstab the wire, but have a clamping nut on the inside that you tighten with the side screw.

I've come across a few charred push in receptacles where they connect electric space heaters. I don't see how they're even legal.

For a 2 wire connection, I'm totally with you. Sometimes when I've had to crank together a 4 or 5 wire connection, the Wago Lever nuts are soooooo much better. The lever nuts are better than the push ins also.

Awesome videos....I’ve learned so much. Thanks. Btw. Need more of the chipmunk voice ...I love it.

Love the way you explain this stuff. Thank you!

For future reference, your close ups are not good enough. Place them on the bench (so they do not move) and bring the camera much closer. Then leave it film for several seconds.

I'm no electrician, but I'm a pretty nosy surveyor, and always take a peek at the wiring on the sites I work at. And I haven't seen a singe wire nut here in Sweden, but many many push in connectors. And keeping in mind how obsessed with safety us Swedes are, they should be good enough. At least on a 10A breaker, I don't know if they are allowed on 16A breakers, I've only seen skrew connections there.

Ive emailed you before, as I too am a GC in the Tulsa area. We have certainly looked at the push connectors. Recently I watched a test that put excess voltage to multiple type wire connectors.....the results were pretty surprising

I have a question that has been bugging me. If i have a light fixture with 14 gauge wire can i connect it with power to a 12 gauge wire????

Springs don’t lose their springy-ness unless they’re being compressed and released. If that little tab isn’t moving, it’s not going to fail.

Does anyone else take the wires back out by just twisting back and forth and pulling? I do it with receptacles too when I need to remove a wire from the push in holes. Who has time to poke a tiny screwdriver in the release hole pfffft! Without a doubt, if you take apart something done by an "oldtimer" it will be staked and wire nut like you show. And every old receptacle is looped and screwed, because it the right way to do it.

Great bench work illustration - I've never used push in connections and doubt I ever will. If it's not broken then don't fix it, wire nuts are time tested and I can sleep at night knowing the connection will not separate and they're relatively cheap. I know some will argue "but that's easily offset by the extra cost of labor to twist and wire nut a joint"...meh get thicker skin and a better set of linesmen pliers. The push in wire connectors just don't sit well with me, I've seen enough terrible wire splice jobs and code violations to shy away from using them. I'm waiting for the next video that discusses GFCI versus AFCI...the code changes in this area are serious expense multipliers.

I agree with you TOTALLY on the suck factor of the push in type connectors. I have even seen them fail. Not the metal tab, but the clear plastic is brittle and crumbles over time. On my pigtails, I go 1 step further and wrap the wires with the connector with a couple of loops of electrical tape. Great channel. I am a Huge Fan.

Here in the UK push fitting are pretty much the norm. Wago being the go to brand

Come on.... straighten out those screw heads on that outlet cover. I expect more from you. ; )

Thank you for showing the details. Much appreciated. Thank you for your hard work.

Just a quick note. Growing up doing small electrical projects, I was always taught to twist the wires together. When I worked for a commercial electrical contractor, I was told never to twist the wires together just use the wire nut until the wires started to twist and that's it. I never understood why not to also twist the wires together also.

The wago lever lock connectors are pretty good I did some work in the EU and they use them and seem to really like them i do t use them as there expensive but from what u was told they are alot more secure than wirenuts

Hey there! Thank you! I'm an electrician [30 yrs on my own] and basically anything that has a stab-just like you said has less surface area contact than the twisting the wires together and using a wire nut. I get lots of service calls-brand new homes-where an electrician plugs the wires into the back of a switch or outlet [I call this stab in connection] and that metal that has spring tension is lost over time from heating up and cooling down. Makes then an intermittant connection. It is the most common cause of intermittant power out of all the service call I go on. Also all wire nuts are not the same. I personally like the 3M products, I've seen wire nuts with the spring stay intact, and the plastic shell-melt-burn- or crack inside of a junction box. That is also why the junction boxes have a 2 hour burn rating, because hopefully by that time the circuit breaker will trip! Oh but thank you for identifying and clarifying this for someone doing it themselves! God bless! AL from CT.

You are absolutely correct about contact area. Most electrical failures are about some sort of loss of connection, be it a switch, receptacle, light, panelboard, etc. When wiring a receptacle with wiring feeding through, pigtail the wires. A whole lot better connection. If you use the screws, you are still daisy chaining through the bridge link on the receptacle. A pigtail connection eliminates this. Most wiring issues in dwellings are not about dead shorts but loose connections. The electrician's challenge. Even though it's not hardly ever done, it wouldn't hurt to check all of your connections at the panelboard. A lot of the breakers are what we call stab-loks. Most of the buss bars on panelboards are aluminum and the breakers stab into them. Breakers with failing springs will cause the aluminum tabs do break down and consequently loose connections. It all starts at the panelboard.

I know this is an older video and you may not see this but I have a question. I've run into a lot of ceiling fan remote receivers that have those tab (shark bite) things pre attached to the receiver. Would it be smart to cut them off and use a wire nut?

You can tell a handyman, but you can't tell him much ;) Generally love the videos, but yeah spring connectors have been used in industry for a very long time. Twisting wires prior to nutting them is a debate that will go on for eternity. A lot of wire nut manufacturers advise against twisting the wires.

Shark Bites of the electrical world. 😂 Handyman dropping the knowledge bombs.

I have only used the push connectors when I was doing lighting. Like replacing ballasts. I use wire nuts for electrical when I need to replace an outlet that had a bigger gauge than the new one.

Nice Channel, just found you today...Keep them coming!

Anyone else turn around to look at the refrigerator?

I keep wire nuts, wagos and leverlocks on the truck. The wagos are the most problem free. Especially with apprentice types making up boxes. They can clearly see inside the wagos to check themselves.

What's your thoughts on using the push connects with these LED recessed lights?

That was a legitimate evaluation. I'll continue to use the push connectors although I'm seriously considering switching to the Wago levers. For the push ins I wouldn't trust generic china brands for the metal as you say. I feel that serious brand names will use the proper alloys. Further the UL has undoubtedly done tests on the metal and longevity. My gut says that they are designed to fail in a safe manor. I'm considering switching to Wago's simply for the ability to reuse them. I prefer the push-in's as they are smaller. What I would love to see in the electrical industry is a switch to deeper gang boxes.

Holy crap talk about not getting to the point!

Seen wire nuts fail also. Been using push-in connecters for quite a while with no problem. Always be sure your connections are sound with either method.

The single outlet 220 is that for air compressors and heaters 240 volt I have one in my garage just wondering what I could use it for.

If your doing work in a customers house and dont trust the clip in connectors then obviously I wouldnt use them. But Ive used them in my home I rebuilt from ground up and so far have had no issues. Sometimes electricians and plumbers are set in their ways and refuse to use anything else except for what they have done for the past 20 - 30 years. I just worked with a plumber who helped me with a septic tank/leech field and walked away when he saw I was using the infiltrator tunnel for the leech field instead of the gravel /perf pipe leech field. He couldnt understand the concept and refused to listen to anyone including the infiltrator rep trying to explain it to him.

Install one, then have “handyman from the future” check it in 20 years... post results in your next video.

When you have an inch of 12 gauge sticking out and you have to connect two more wires to it with virtually no slack, the european style press in connectors are a lot easier

What about push connectors for grounds. I've had to cut crimps off of grounds and they seemed like the perfect thing to us instead of multiple pig tails.

Video looks pretty crisp, Handyman! Great work, as always!

I use the push ones only when theres not enough wire or room in the box.

Yeah, but how many times have you opened a box to find wire nuts just laying inside the box with the twisted connection exposed. I've seen this hundreds of times but never ran across one of these wago connectors that failed or came loose. I believe them to be safer all around, so much so that if I go into a junction box and add a circuit, I will go ahead and replace all the wire nuts with wagos in that box because I don't want a call back.

I was looking at those lever nuts when trying to figure out whether to let them be used. My thoughts are similar. if you are going to replace something that is proven to work over the long haul, such as proper wire nut connections, you need some good reason to do so. I have had a couple of fires in electrical boxes in old buildings over the years, fortunately contained by steel boxes, both could have been catastrophic. Post incident examination in each case revealed that they were caused by improper wire junctions, one without a wire nut, just twisted and taped by a contractor, and one with a spring type of nut inadequately bonding solid conductors which had been installed prior to our purchase of that property. In both cases the incidents occurred with high amperage loads applied, one a space heater and I don't recall the other. In neither case was an arc fault circuit interrupter in place. I have concerns about these lever nuts over the long haul with that clamp connection, I am wondering how it will stand up to oxidation in adverse environmental conditions over time. If resistance builds in the junction, heating arcing and a fire could result. I am concerned about joint resistance when used in retrofits on wires with an oxidized coating for the same reasons. Our current written policy for my properties requires all contractors to follow the NEC and additionally all state and local building / electrical codes. Over time I have added on clauses to further restrict how certain things are done that I have concerns about. These lever nuts are one of those. Our current policy is that they can not be used by employees or contractors except where a traditional wire nut is impractical due to space or work required to replace a box, such as GFCI upgrades in smaller boxes, and even for those situations, only in steel boxes and not without my specific authorization for that specific location, which must be noted on the plans or work order that are filed. That way, if those nuts are recalled or de-certified in the future, I know just where they are at. Our policy requires all wire nuts and on the add on specifically these lever connectors to be U.L. listed (such as the ideal brand lever connectors) as I trust the U.L. listing more than some imported CE or other mark that may or may not be legitimate anyway. Basically we don't use the lever connectors very much yet.