The stringer is a good idea. I tend to use piggy back extension leads and just tap into them where needed but a stringer would be faster. As long as you don't overload the circuit with what could be up to 18 lamps, all is good. I use my lighter as a roller with the melted end of VB cord on a bit of timber or cardboard. If I'm cutting a lot of synthetic rope and or larger diameter, I use a hot knife. www.sydneyropesupplies.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20&products_id=492

I'm not a huge bungee-ball guy myself, but they are also a solid method, yes!

I attach the rope to the bar with a cow hitch. See link below. Then to tie it to the cables, just use exactly the same routine you use to tie your shoe laces. It's the same thing for hanging cloths with eyelet holes in them only the cow hitch goes on the eyelet. I heat the end of synthetic tie VB cord and roll the heated end on a bit of timber or cardboard (using the lighter as my roller) to seal it. Warning hot plastic causes burns. www.animatedknots.com/cow-hitch-knot-loops-method I reckon it'll take you less than 10 seconds to work out how to tie that knot when you don't have access to the end of the bar. :)

I tie it like I tie my shoes - not fancy, and anyone else who runs into it can untie it! Tie line is cheap enough and decent tie line doesn't fray a ton, so I really don't worry about doing anything with the ends. At the production company where I used to work, we'd only have to replace tie line from fraying on cables that were probably 10+ years old, and at that point it's so dirty and nasty anyways that you might as well start over. (and that is in a production company - hard use, lots of really dirty floors, outdoors, and more!)

@@LearnStageLighting Thank you! Just received my tie line, waiting for four more fixtures, then I will get up there and re-dress the wiring on our battens. They are a mess!

Interesting to see all the replies to this. Gonna check out those other knots. I typically use the clove hitch since it holds up heavy cable like socapex to a pipe without issue.

Thank you kindly

Hi. What make, what model and how old?

@@chrisk8208 ADJ, Encore FR50Z latest software 1.07. Less than 3 years old

@@kenlapone7551 Just to rule out a simple explanation, check the unit isn't at the end of a long run of DMX. If it is, put a DMX terminator on it. From Page 8 of the user manual; "Special Note: Line Termination. When longer runs of cable are used, you may need to use a terminator on the last unit to avoid erratic behaviour. A terminator is a 110-120 ohm 1/4 watt resistor which is connected between pins 2 and 3 of a male XLR connector (DATA + and DATA -). This unit is inserted in the female XLR connector of the last unit in your daisy chain to terminate the line. Using a cable terminator (ADJ part number Z-DMX/T) will decrease the possibilities of erratic behavior." You can make your own terminators easily. Here is the link to your user manual. www.adj.com/encore-fr50z Page 10 says the following. "This mode can be used as a precaution mode, that in case the DMX signal is lost, the operating mode chosen in the setup is the running mode the fixture will go into when the DMX signal is lost." Check you don't have the unit set to go into some unwanted mode when DMX signal is lost. This should not affect DMX address so probably isn't the problem. Similarly, page 12. Check you don't have default running mode selected. I doubt you can leave this selected on as it's probably just a factory reset you engage manually and it resets and then turns off but worth checking. "Default Running Mode: This is a default running mode. When this mode is activated all modes will return to their default settings." If you're running in 3, 2-3 or 4 channel modes (see p 14) and you send a value greater than 120 to channels 3 or 4 (depending on the mode you're in), the unit will "default to unit setting". This should only affect your dim curve but the wording is ambiguous and may reset the entire fixture to "unit setting". See if you can get it to stuff up by running CH 3 or 4 (again depending on mode you've selected) up past 120 (past 47%). I personally think the most likely cause of your problems is a failure in the memory chip of the unit that remembers it's address and other settings. This could be a faulty chip if the unit uses non volatile memory but if it uses DRAM chips, the little battery that keeps it remembering stuff without external power might be on it's way out. Unfortunately the manufacturer says there are no user serviceable parts inside, warns of voiding your warranty and says to send it to an authorised repairer so they're not supplying any information on possible fixes you could do yourself. Sorry pal, that's all I can tell you. Best of luck.

Hi again. The build up of "static electricity" you mention is concerning. The unit has an earth (ground) and this means it can't build up static electricity, as any voltage "built up" will just drain to earth. What is "building up" may well be a harmful and if it gets worse, deadly amount of charge that by rights should be draining to earth. You may have a faulty earth connection in the unit. Check with a multimeter by setting to Ohms and making sure the earth pin of your power lead and the casing of the unit measure 1 ohm or less. You may have to scrape a little paint off the unit to get to a small section of exposed metal on the shell with your multimeter probe. Plug the units power cord into an RCD and check it's not tripping. If the resistance is over 1 ohm and or the RCD is tripping. Stop using the unit and have it serviced. Lighting is fun but isn't worth dying for. :) www.appliancetaggingservices.com.au/rcd-residual-current-device

@@chrisk8208 thanks for the effort you put into your response! I will look into it