Thanks for watching!

I enjoy the way you prepare and teach Great job

Glad you think so! Thank You.

The Amped 30 ah battery would work for the larger screen as well. The power coming from the usb port is coming from the battery so no you can't charge the unit battery from that port. It can be used to charge a camera or phone though. Of course anything you use to draw from that usb will shorten the run time of the Garmin.

The tall 30ah Amped battery has spade connectors. That is the correct size for the Summit shuttle that we use.

The power cord accessory branch supplies 12 volts. The usb accessory that we attached regulates the voltage itself.

Some of the wires were purchased, some 14 ga. wire and the combo power cable described in the video. The bottom of the switch gets the power for the unit and the black box, in this case through the optional combo cable. You can chose to join the two hot (red) wires from the two power cables provided with the unit if you do not want to us the combo cable.

Thanks for the question, I rigged it so the switch shuts everything off. I can still charge the battery with the switch off though. We did it because the black box doesn’t have a power switch, which means it’s always on (pulling VERY low amps)

If you look at the picture of the combo power cable in this video you can see the same inline fuse holder that is connected directly to the lowest position of the rocker switch on the shuttle. Throwing this switch powers on the Garmin head unit, the black box for the Live scope, and whatever you have connected to the accessory wire. In Z's setup that would be the usb receptacle.

Also, thanks for watching and commenting!

Excellent debate, I have ran 3 different sizes now personally. The 7 is a great lightweight set up which is the set up I use most of the time on the ice. Would be great for kayak as well. I have also spent a lot of time on the ice with my 9, it’s a bit heavier but that bigger screen size is GREAT for seeing a lot, and could be beneficial if two plus people are using the same unit. I recently installed a 12 for a customer and holy buckets does that screen light up the world! The graphics are also much better on the 1222. Here’s what I’ll say, buy what you can afford, if you can go a touch bigger, do it. Less eye strain, clearer picture, etc. All screen sizes will work, but once you use bigger you will never downsize. Use me as an example, I have now owned a 4 inch Garmin screen, then a 6,7 and now a 9…

@@sevenfishyoutube Thanks for sharing your trails and errors, all great points! I went with the 75 because I was afraid of cracking the screen on anything larger as I already cracked a Lowrance 4" and replaced it with the 75sv. I just walk on the ice and pull, still don't really know how the Lowrance cracked. Good point about smaller is a better fit for paddle boats. I would also add less gear to lose for the eventual capsizing too, which I've already experienced. Almost lost a Diawa Steez AGS baitcaster, but saved it and my life that day. Lost pliers and a spool of floro only. Reminder to myself, to never bring anything expensive like a panoptix shuttle on a kayak or canoe. That is quite a collection of Garmin hardware you have. I feel better after reading your story about my decision on the 75 now, thank you.

@@robertwong5026 Hopefully you have all of that bad luck behind you. Thanks for the kind words and tight lines!

They do not, I rigged a GPSMAP 1222 for a customer and had to make one myself... Unfortunately!

12 gage is not too big, however i would need more info to correctly diagnose the issue. Most of the time the electrical connections are to blame. I don't know how long the extensions are in your case and what method you used to connect them.

it should work fine like that but there isn't a ton of room behind that little switch.

@@sevenfishyoutube ended up splicing all blacks together into one spade terminal. Totally correct about room behind the switch. I cleaned up everything pretty nice with heat shrink waterproof connectors. Also wired in a Vexilar glow cup that runs on its own power switch after the shuttle switch.

Sounds tidy and functional.

We stripped the two wires and intermingled the copper then twisted and put it into a crimp connector that goes on the battery. Thanks for the question, hope it helps.

Thank you, also could I use 10 gauge wire on the whole setup?

10 ga wire would not be required for such short runs. That large of a differential in size would be difficult to splice with a crimp connector meaning joining wires would require solder and heat shrink or the like. Those power cord leads are 16 or 14 gage from Garmin. You should not have a problem with voltage drop with the short (under 2 foot) lead length.

So I should probably use 12 gauge for all the wiring.

12-14 for a portable unit should be fine, I use 12 in my boat where I had 10-18 foot runs. If you did that with smaller gage (14 or 16) wire you would lose volts to the system. If you had 14volts @ the battery it could be down to 12ish @ the locator. When you get later in the day and the battery drain to the 12 volt level the unit may be trying to operate at below 10.5 volts and shut down or run really hot.

You never want to use a lead acid charger to charge a lithium battery. You don't want to go the other way either, neither will work well and both will be very hard on the battery.

@@sevenfishyoutube ok .. I didn’t realize that end was for a lead battery. Thx u for responding.

@@sevenfishyoutube He didn’t say the charger- he said the charging port on the Garmin harness- which you could 100% have used instead the two pin Amped one. Lithium or SLA batteries don’t care what the connection looks like

You could technically place two side by side!

Have not run it out yet but the claimed run time for my 9 inch screen is 21 hours, so...

Looking to run the same set up man!

@@johnlieu you will be extremely happy with it for sure! I've been kayak fishing almost 9 yrs now. I've never owned any electronics till past winter. I'm not sure why I waited so long... That 32ah 14.8v lithium amped outdoors battery will run my ultra 106sv, steady cast & lvs34 system for 13-15 hours on average, with everything on. It's very small & just under 4lbs. Unless you have the battery upfront with all your electronics, so the factory cords reach the battery. Make sure you use correct wire size! I ran 8awg marine wire from back to front. My electronics are all in front, my diy battery box is in my create behind my seat. I used a trolling motor quick connect on my battery box & power supply wire. I've heard of voltage problems from yak power & FPV. I have exactly same voltage at my electronics as directly at my battery. The lvs34 systems specs say no less than 10awg wire for supply power. Neither of those power distribution devices have close to that size wire!

@@maxcole3930 Thanks for the extra tips and details! I got the 106SV and have no issue with that. But I opened my LVS34 yesterday and I was like where the heck does the power go to, so seeing your recommendation for the combo wire was a huge help.

@@johnlieu no problem at all, any other questions don't hesitate! I spent a lot time with total& error... Another thing I don't think I mentioned on my set up. I ran the main power supply cable ( 8awg marine wire) up front inside my PA12 to my front hatch. At the front hatch I originally had a positive & negative bus bars. So I could connect the 3 separate devices to the single incoming power. I then switched it to posi locks. Which is a cleaner set up. I had zero problems with the bus bars. Like I said it was a cleaner set up. The posi locks allow you to connect all 3 device cables to the single incoming power. Pos & neg separate of course. If you have ever heard of the Sea Clear Power Harnesses? That's what they use on there harnesses for connections. The Posi locks I mean... I'm using the Fishing Specialties kayak bowducer with their lvs34 transducer mount. It lets you do front, down & perspective mode quick & easy deployment & changing views. Plus allows you to change angle of perspective mode for different depths. The Garmin mount will fit on their pole too, but it's worth getting their transducer mount for sure! I highly recommend the steady cast too. Enjoy the set up! It is awesome!

You can do that (be sure you make a good connection) but the double prong spade connection works also and more people are comfortable with that than splicing wires. Good luck fishing

Garmin calls it a Marine network cable.

There is an inline fuse built into the Garmin power cable. It can be seen @ 5:16 when Z shows the second (lower) red wire on the back side of the power switch. Thanks for the comment!

@@sevenfishyoutube... thanks. I assumed I probably missed it.

hard to say with the information provided but perhaps there is voltage loss. It takes a lot more voltage to run a head unit than it does to light a switch.

Thanks for watching and commenting, I have replied to your email!

The gls 10 uses a Garmin marine network cable to talk to the head unit.

The power cord connected to the black box makes both hot and ground connection. Thanks for commenting.