I appreciate your feedback! Thanks for watching

Yes, good luck with your trailer build!

I'm glad this helped!

Glad it was helpful!

Awesome! Thanks for watching

My be

Aa

Yes, thanks for the suggestion

Could potentially add a solar panel setup and mount the panels on top of trailer and that would charge batteries while at locations Just finished the vid, you covered what I said above lol

Yes I thought about that, if the welds are soild that’s a good idea, I wanted to make sure I had goo grounds so I just ran the grounds to the battery. Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped! Good luck!

👍

You betcha!

Yeah man! It was a fun build, and has been very practical for our uses.

Nice! Thanks for watching

Good suggestion, thanks for sharing!

Thanks for watching!

Very nice! Best of luck!

Thank you!

Thanks for the tips

Nice! Good luck

Thanks for watching, I’m glad you found this helpful. Stay tuned for more updates!

Nice

Cool! Have fun customizing it!

👍

I'm glad you liked it! Thanks

👍

Thank you!! 🙏

Thanks for watching!

Thanks

Here's the solar video! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qpmWdJhkmarZfn0.htmlsi=7aJRidJF14iRrpU6

The surge protector is just plugged into the wall outlet, if you want to charge batteries and so forth from the battery you just need to get an inverter, and wire it directly to the battery: amzn.to/3tuV8re

An inverter is a good idea!!

Yeah you would just need an inverter for the fridge, and some solar to recharge the battery.

The floor has held up great, no issues at all.

👍

I’m sure it could go for days. I’m considering installing a small solar panel that will help keep it charged up

I used these cabinets: amzn.to/3bwsq3H

@@Myksgarage Thanks!

Not sure how long it will last, but I would think a week or so

I didn't connect any grounds to the trailer frame or metal parts. All of my grounds ran back to the negative on the battery, I figured this would make it the easiest for me to understand and wire

It's a flooded battery, and I don't have a vent in place

@@Myksgarage have you notice excessive gas or fumes during charging?

Nice! I did not do a video of cutting a hole, just get a holesaw that is the size of the outlet hole ,and drill right through.

@@Myksgarage Will do tomorrow and give you shouts when I post.

I used 10amp fuse. Here's the solar video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qpmWdJhkmarZfn0.html

Thanks for the positive feedback! These appear to be the ones I used in my trailer: amzn.to/48PJbOP

Here's a link: amzn.to/3S9ESWC

I ran 12 gauge which was probably too large but it's what I had. Yes the fused leads came attached to the charger. Thanks for watching

@@Myksgarage Thank you for responding! I'll send photos of my set up when it's completed.

It sounds like it would

I wouldn’t connect it directly to the battery. At most you will get 50-60% charge. That’s why alternators produce more than 12v, generally 13.5-14v.

@@thwrkmns70 if hooking up to live 12v auxiliary power from the vehicle's 7 pin connector be sure to install a battery isolator. Safer and is sure to not drain down trailer by low battery on truck. Don't need a big isolator and this will allow safe charging while vehicle running. Always fuse any source of power. Choose a fuse rated for the trailer auxiliary power circuit. That info can be found in your vehicle manual fuse chart. Choose a slightly smaller rated fuse so you do not overload the circuit and will be changing the fuse on the trailer which is much easier than getting to many fuse panels in the vehicle. You never want to stress the wiring on the vehicle as that is expensive and time consuming to find a damaged wire if you do. Be sure trailer is vented so no dangerous gases build up. It is mandatory on newer trailers. Older ones may not have. Be sure battery can breathe well. Hope this helps some people!

Because that light was not connected to the new battery I installed

A fuse somewhere?

Just an outlet

There's an idea!

The light switch just interrupts the positive wire. So a positive wire from the battery or fuse block to the light switch, then a positive wire leaving the light switch going to the positive on the LED lights. The negative you will just run from the battery directly to the negative on the lights. See this link to this 12v switch that just has 2 terminals, both are for positive, so positive in from the battery and positive out to the lights. amzn.to/3QGaiCA

@@Myksgarage okay gotcha so I have the same switch but a dual and my issue is I was connecting the pos and neg to the switch but really I should just be using 2 pos from the switch one to the lights and one to the fuse block. Also does the neg for the lights have to go to the battery or could I use one of the neg terminals from the fuse block ?

Yeah you can use the negatives on the fuse block, it's easier that way, so you don't have a a bunch of individual wires going to the battery. The fuse block is just an extension of the battery

@@Myksgarage awesome, thank you again for the insight and help

To and an outlet it would have to be a 12v outlet, like a 12v socket and yes, just add it to the fuse block

Thank you

Not sure on that.

Correct. A wet cell battery should not be mounted inside of an enclosed space because they off-gas when charging. I used an AGM battery in one of my cargo trailers, which is OK for inside mounting, because they are totally sealed.

Yeah it was an 8 gauge

Yeah, every thing still works great, no issues

@@Myksgarage Thank you - I am placing an order for those - great video on the lighting!. You are right - there are not many cargo trailer lighting video.

Either defective lights, or low voltage going to the lights, check your connections and make sure the battery is charged.

Thanks I appreciate the reply, my next step is to confirm my connections. I believe my “battery to fuse box” cables/contacts may be too big for a good connection to the fuse box.

It would last a week or so, the led lights don't draw much power

The hold up great, they are just screwed into the studs on the wall,

@@Myksgarage I wouldn’t think the frame would be strong enough. I just got a 7x14 and really like your setup in the v with the tool chests/tables and am going to use it as a starting point for mine!

The cabinets themselves are not that heavy, and I don't put a lot of heavy items in them so it's not an issue. Also, I like that they lock so that the doors do not fly open when I'm driving. Good luck on your build!

What size is the tool box that is on the floor and how did you mount the wall cabinets?

They are from Home Depot, and yes I have them just screwed into the wall www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-55-Gallon-Stackable-Storage-Bin-in-Black-232387/300170479?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25S-059_016_GARAGE_ORG-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-D59S-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-FY23_Shopping&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25S-059_016_GARAGE_ORG-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-D59S-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-FY23_Shopping-71700000108113319-58700008320130189-92700079407476727&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61Ucq3UK3HiOm3XG_0O6lWbs9i&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhaLuwtm_hAMVgy-tBh1q3AUOEAQYASABEgLzh_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

It sounds like that would be a good short cut. Good luck in your build!

🤷

Correct on the first part, but The negative wire is not ran anywhere to the shut off switch. The negative from the battery is just going to the negative terminal on the fuse block.

Yeah I agree!

LED Ceiling Lights: amzn.to/34kZhnV Led strip lights: amzn.to/3wA8bdl

Thank you

I'll update them, thanks

I don't have one in this trailer. I just have the power strip plugged into the wall outlet, which runs off the extension cord. All of the lights I'll run off 12 V, but if I wanted to run a 120v I would need to add an inverter to the battery

That's exactly right! It will last several days before needing to recharge becuase the led lights draw so little power!

Have you changed this setup to include any 120v outlets or anything more than just LED lights as the load?

Good feedback

The negative wire does not go to the switch, the switch only interrupts the positive wires, all of the negative should be run directly to the negative side of the battery

@@Myksgarage so what wire goes from the load side of the switch? Or maybe I should ask what do you put on the load side of the switch?

@@Myksgarage I also ran all red wires to both sides of the switch, which didn’t seem right but gave it a try and then the lights wouldn’t switch off at all.

@@Myksgarage Nevermind it all just clicked to me and I have it working correctly now. Thanks!

Check the wiring make sure there's no wire or wires are not crossed

Wiring all good

Ready to go back too old school and just use an atv battery on its own with the wiring.

Thanks for watching

The wiring with the battery and lights was under $250.

I don't really have a diagram

@@Myksgarage ok, thank you. Btw, your video is one of the best on KZfaq. I have been looking for something like this. Unfortunately, I am clueless when it comes to the initial connection between the battery, charger, switch, and fuse box.

What's that?