Great comparison. It's down to the Mineral Oil/Beeswax vs. Titebond glue. Titebond is the better option for simplicity, especially of you are going to sand the glue off when you eventually do your project. No prep time needed, just squeeze it on and spread it out. For long-term storage of wood, the Mineral Oil/beeswax treatment may be better, as it will flex with the changes in humidity.

Can I use this on a two week old Oak/maple stump? I'm very impatient and I want to get going on the project. Also, once I put the wax on does it stay on or will I need to end up sanding it off?

Was wondering what your ratio was for the mineral oil to beeswax. Thanks so much for the great video!

I use homemade food-grade mineral oil/beeswax paste to seal my carved spoons, mortar and pestles, and whittled projects. It can also be used to keep your hands smooth. 🙂 Thanks for this comparison.

Did your control also not crack?

Jeez you’re right!!! Yeah it was walnut! Totally missed that!! 😳 ha!

That is awesome.. I cant claim this brilliant Glue idea as my own.. But i too have found it works awesome and had to share and test everything under the sun to make sure we had the best results!!!! Thanks for the reply! -Brian

Thank you for your comment.

Point noted

That's awesome! Thank you for sharing!

@ J&J True Outdoor; Would you kindly share your recipe for your Fixin Wax? It would be appriciated. Thank you, A.S.

That's awesome and after you cut off the ends the checking and splitting should be gone. 💪🏻👈🏻

you could buy a lathe. or you could load up a truck, and bring those logs to me.

I agree and it works well.. ty for your comment. 🍻

Wayn Jul excellent idea!

I really appreciate that! I try to sneak something funny into every episode! 👊🏻😜

@@WoodenCreationz yeah, been flipping through, learning tons and writing things in my journal! The humor and clear but relatable explanations really tie everything together to make amazing to watch videos! Thanks man, clicking the bell for more!

Thank you Lee!!! 😜👉🏻🎂

Thanks.. appreciate that a lot!!

Chad you are correct... Sadly you can't just grab and fresh log and make something awesome with it out cracking.. Hopefully my tests help someone else in the future. Always appreciate your comments and enjoying your new position on the Making Time podcast bud. Enjoying your thoughts and experience. -Brian

WoodenCreationz I ♥️ you.

Usually women usually take me out to dinner and a movie before saying that... But you have a laser... You sir have earned a fast pass!

really appreciate that!!!

Ya i think it too

Taco Master RC Thanks man. Gotta keep it fresh!!!

did you get a answer to your question i am also interested in the ratio

You know what I didnt.. A quick GOOG.. and it states it does work as a drying agent. But it may still check and crack. My guess is.. it soaks in and does help dry, but isn't enough to totally plug the ends of the log and allow the moisture to dry out on the bark side rather than the cut end side. Just a guess but worth a test.. Thanks for the comment.

@@WoodenCreationz my pleasure; if I may share my two bits worth of experience, if you arrive to full saturation of the wood (on parquet I reach that level with 3/4 coats of it) it become waterproof and “sealed” despite the pores remaining “open”. Still didn’t try for drying out wood, but if you’ll give it a try, I’ll be happy to know the results :)

What about putting the beeswax + oil first, then doing a 2 part epoxy after? O.o

Walnut

I'm not going to lie to you. I'm not sure on that answer. I haven't tried it... But my dad does put titebond 2 on his logs and sets them outside so he can turn them later on his lathe at a later time. there is a little bit of cracking and checking on the end of the log. but it prevents the entire log from splitting so he can later turn a bowl. Titebond would probably be the better of the two out of the beeswax. Beeswax the looks the prettiest especially when you hit a little heat to it. Either way comment and let us know if you try either of these options and get any success! 💪🏻👈🏻 Brian

You will have to play with the ratio. My dad mixed it up. It seemed to be a 50/50 ration. Its the consistency of Vaseline. It wiped on with a rag. He uses it in turning to apply to things he makes and provides a very nice waxy to to the touch, but not wet feel. The best method for drying I have found. Is bring it inside. If you have AC in your house, it will dry nicely. Some people have created a box with a light in it for drying wet wood, especially with turning. But once you seal the wood... i have had zero issues.. Now with that said.. I did bring in my 1st wood cookie, not sealed when I did this and it cracked and then the cracked sealed back up.. So your gonna need to put bees wax or originial clear titebond on it, to prevent cracks and checks. Any anyone reading this.. Its August 19th 2018 and wood cookies in this video still have zero have cracks. (Just looked at them) and all look identical to when i put them in there in april. So i highly advise it. Hope this helps Diane and others reading it.

It’s when the wood drys too quick and begins to split the wood. A log is really wet when cut. It needs to slowly dry or if it rapidly drys it splits. 😉

Yeah, just seal the wood. Not the bark. You want the moisture to slowly evaporate through the bark so don't coat it. 😉 If it drys too fast it cracks and checks... If you sealed the entire thing it wouldnt be able to dry out. 👊🏻

WoodenCreationz thank you, I’m planning on making a coffee table out of part of a big tree stump, but it’s fairly wet and is going to take a while to dry out

Hey Brian... I am no expert. But Spar is going to be better for outdoors than poly. Poly will look nicer but probably wont hold up as well in the weather. Hit it with spar and be prepared to sand and hit it with Spar again the following year.. Its just something we have to do... Paint holds up better but doesnt always show off the nice grain!

Hey Glenn!!! I looked at these wood cookies yesterday and they all are still perfect and have zero checks or cracks. I used the titebond to make a buddy his logo on one yesterday... They have been in my storage room in the basement since I made this video so it's extremely dry. I haven't tested it. But bees wax and titebond glue are both perfect and a low cost way of doing it. Again... If you ever cut wood.... Get it done the same day you cut it... It can dry over night to 48 hours and start showing checks and cracks soon after. Ty for the sub and welcome aboard!!! -Brian

@@WoodenCreationz Thanks. I`ve used a commercial end sealer already and have already learned lots about sealing and also about storage once the sealing is done. Seems extreme temperature fluxuations are not ideal and many of my pieces developed checks on one side only. One final question if you don`t mind. What is your ratio of wax to mineral oil?

Let it fall off and glue it back on with Titebond III waterproof glue. Leaves a brown glueseam but blends well and won't fall off again

@@trinstable Many thanks, will pass this on 🦆💕

I reached out to them to see if they would like to send me someone in return for the review but they never got back to me. Its pretty pricey stuff but I too have heard it works well..

Anchorseal is great but as WoodenCreations says they are proud of it. Only reason I have some is an old school teacher fellow woodturner had a couple gallons his wife gave to me after he passed way.

Depending on the thickness a couple weeks to a month or two. Basically I seal them and then I put them down in my basement near my dehumidifier. Your house is going to dry them faster being you have an air conditioner that's drying the moisture out of the wood. It's messy and you don't want to bring in bugs but it's one way of speeding up the drying process. Another good thing to own is a moisture meter. So far to this day there is zero cracks in all of these pieces of wood! Hope that helps and I appreciate the comment!

Correct, if the moisture is released too fast on the ends that were cut the ends will crack. If you seal the ends the moisture cant escape out the ends rather has to dry out on the sides of the wood preventing splitting and checking.

You may... Listen for a chainsaw and you will be in business. This was a tree the electrical company was taking down in someones yard and we asked them if we can have the log. They loaded it for us. My dad used his grizzly bandsaw to cut this. He used the carter sled. If you are looking for boards, pallets are pretty good, but a lot of work. I have a local wood flooring place that throws out scraps for free.. Also you can hit up cabinet shops in your area. Dig wayyyyyyyyyy back in my videos and you will see one of my first videos on where to find free wood... Outside that.. I havent bought any oak.

You're right Andy. Wonder if this is the giant acorn oak we have around us?

Here for this comment, that’s black walnut bro

I did both sides

Yep a board covered in beeswax would be fine.. In regards to one using wood glue... I probably wouldn't do that if it was me... I would seal it with beeswax... Let it throughly dry for a few months... Then sand and scrape and get it back down to bare wood... Then use a butcher block or solution made for cutting boards... 😉

@@WoodenCreationz thank you great video

They have calculators and moisture meters to help determine how dry the wood is... Your going to want to seal it and probably wait probably 4 months with it drying either in a dry area or stickered... but seal the ends as fast as possible and it will stop the cracks and checks.

All the bark has stayed on a year later no issue... 👊🏻😜

@@WoodenCreationz Awesome!! A friend made some wood cookies for a baby shower. They put candle votives on them and some fake greenery. They looked really nice but they are unfinished. He gave them to me after the party and I need to know how to keep them nice without a gloss finish on them. I prefer a matte finish. Thank you for your suggestions!!

It should work the same