Thanks for the kind comment Burt

I'm impressed. You are absolutely correct. I Have had a lot of fun figuring out what I could do with the Sorby spiraling and texturing tools as well as the decorating elf and have easily made over 1000 tops. Burt

Перевести

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for the comment. Burt

You"re welcome and thanks for the comment. It is nice to know that it was worth posting. Happy turning Be safe Is it safe for you? Burt

Thanks for the kind words! Burt

Thanks for the kind words. Keep on turning. Burt

Thank you very much for the most kind comments. Good luck with the tools. Be safe. Think it through. Is it safe for you? Burt

Spot on comment, most enjoyable, clear n concise, excellent detail.

Thanks!

Thanks for appreciating my silliness. You just made me chuckle too. Be sure to have fun Burt

Thanks! Burt

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. I had fun making it. urt

Oops! That "urt" was supposed to be "Burt".

And thanks for your comment. Much appreciated. Burt

Thanks

thanks for the kind comment Burt

Me alegro de que te haya gustado. Gracias

You are very observant. I believe you are right. I have ignored whether I run the wheel forward or backward and I have never had a problem. That may be due to a fluke in the way I made the tool or that I really tighten the screw. I did put a thrust bushing in it. Maybe that is the reason. Burt

Thank you. I had a lot of fun. Burt

Thanks for the comment. I use a hairdryer on high for 30 seconds. The metallic colors need more. Burt

Thank you

Thanks for your comment. I got roped into turning tops by my club, too. After a few hundred tops I could see some real growth in my control, especially the push cut with a bowl gouge. I started with a chatter tool and then moved on to the sorby texturing tool, and then later the decorating elf and then the wagner knurling tools.I started making bowls at first, but it was making tops that taught me the most. I'm sure I've made at least a couple thousand tops by now and I can't recommend a better way to learn. Keep making those tops! I hope they will teach you as much as they have taught me. Burt

I'm glad you found it helpful. In the video you will notice that I did put wax over a gold sharpie which is a metallic type of ink that is different from the regular colors. And that meant I had to reapply the gold to bring back the color and the sheen. I think the problem is that the metallic colors(gold, silver and bronze) take a long time to dry and I'm never patient enough and I'll wax it and/or buff it right away which takes away the sheen as well as changing it to a very drab color. I did buff a top with metallic colors about a week or so after having made it and it didn't seem to affect the sheen nor the color. Well, of course, I mean , it made the whole top shine with no ill effects. In short, I believe it takes the metalic colors much longer to dry as opposed to the regular colors. How long does it take? I don't know. That's the real question. So If you rub it before it is dry you will smear and remove some of the ink. Try it and see what happens. You can also remove some of the regular colors if you don't wait for them to dry. But 30 seconds with a hair dryer is enough to adequately dry the regular colors. Or just wait 5-10 min. Happy Turning Burt

@@burthovander4873 thank you so much! That makes sense. I'm definitely going to give it a try!

I used my 5/8 IN. BOWL GOUGE for the majority of it and then a 1/2 in. Dway spindle gouge and on the back side I used a 5/8 IN. HENRY tAYLOR SPINDLE GOUGE with a 25 deg. bevel. Happy turning burt

Todd, You can buy the tools from craftsupplies for $87.70 each. Just a cutting wheel is 17.75. I buy the cutting wheel and make the rest myself. Woodcraft also sells them. Check out my other video - woodturning sorby spiraling and texturing tools. In it I have documented everything I know. I need to add that I made these videos to document what I have learned so I have something to refer to when I forget something. So I probably won't make anymore videos using these tools. It will take you a while to learn to use these tool. Have fun and be patient. Try the easy ones first. Burt

I was just thinking about just getting the wheels and crafting some kind of handle, do you have any suggestions?

Thanks. I am learning everyday and appreciate your vids. @@burthovander4873

Not a silly question at all. I used Big Leaf maple that was aged less than a year. I prefer it to dry for at least 2 months, but after a year it starts to get a little brittle which makes making clean cuts and textures more difficult. However, even after 3 or 4 years it still works very well. I just prefer it to have been drying 3 to ~9 months after I have cut it into 2 1/2 " square billets that are 14"-16" long. Have fun turning. Be safe. Is it save for you? Burt

Amy, Thanks for your comments and questions. When cutting on the back side of a top I will often cut downhill away from the headstock to form the handle and will even cut a little uphill to clean up the transition of the handle to the top body. The problem is that at this point I only have a half of an inch or sometimes as little as a quarter of an inch of wood at that transition and that could mean unsupported wood with a lot of vibration, so if I'm not careful I could break the top. In this situation cutting toward the headstock would give just a little more support. 2. On every machine I've ever used, the stop button is proud of everything around it. That is not true for the Robust AB lathe. I am so used to slapping the button to turn off a machine that I added a rubber ball for me to hit to turn off the lathe that does stand proud of everything else. To hit the metal around the off switch would hurt. I just used a piece of PVC pipe to hold the ball with a metal and wood lever that strikes the off button, all held together with some wire. It's not perfect, but it works for me. 3. I have the stock banjo and have the Robust 15" and the 6" tool rests. (I wish I also had the 9", but when I tried to order one, they were out of stock.) I admit that I have to frequently apply paste wax to keep the banjo moving smoothly. And yes, it can be heavy especially when it gets sticky. Nothing is perfect. I have to add that one of my pet peeves about the banjo is the clamping mechanism. You change the tool rest and you often have to stick your finger down the hole to aline everything and in the process get your finger dirty so you have to go and wash your hands. If only Brent had added a spline and a spring it would have made this OK mechanism into an awesome one. For the high price of the lathe I can't understand it. And I don't think there is a current patent that would have stopped him from doing that. All in all the Robust AB lathe is very good. But with this and just a few other changes it could be GREAT. Have fun, and be safe. Think it through. Is it safe for you? Burt

They are regular fine point sharpie that you can buy anywhere. I often get them at Michaels. Good luck and have fun!

Thanks Burt.

I just turn for fun and haven't really considered making things to sell. If I looked at it from the standpoint of collecting and processing the wood and then spending more time making something, no one would want to pay a decent hourly wage. I am very flattered that you would be that interested, but... it is probably best to give them away to friends and family. Burt

Bonjour, J'ai utilisé "fine point Sharpie pens". Buena suerte. Burt

Craig, I only use the micro set. With the larger set I have to remove too much material to complete the pattern, and that doesn't work for me since I am using it on little tops and the bottom of bowls.

Thanks for the kind words. It spins ~1min 15 sec. If it were heavier wood it would spin longer. I believe this was Big Leaf Maple. Burt

An obvious exaggeration but thanks for saying so.