How did you do it without cutting the bed? Did you mount the suspension to a different location? I see a lot of people using different holes on the frame to mount to.

@@stevenmollard9807 yes man, exactly. I definitely did not want to cut that bed, and so I preferred to mount a metal adapter with many holes and then decide where to place the shocks. I actually preferred from the beginning a much more angled placement of the shocks, especially the rear ones. In this way I achieved much more angled mechanical travel while preserving the integrity of the bed. The same work, but with much less angulation, was done to the front shocks. I mounted the steering servo directly on the front axle and so it now works much better, but to do this I also had to remove as little as possible everything under the hood and raise the electronic board. That's because the servo, mounted that way, raises and lowers consistently with the front axle and, at maximum compression, it would bump into the plastic plate that holds the circuit board. Speaking of the electronic board, I highly recommend that you buy the advanced board from WPL. You will see that power scanning will be much smoother and more enjoyable, plus you can add more lights as well, you won't regret it. The board I am referring to is called 'res V3'. Buy it with its own remote control (better than the standard one) and, if you like the idea, also buy the small speaker because with this board your little WPL can have its own 'voice', namely that of a nice V8 (or V6, I'm not sure) engine, your choice of diesel or gasoline. You will start your little toyota and, on the first acceleration you will hear it 'turn on' the engine and then accelerate consistently with your power demand. After a minute of idle time (maybe less) you will hear it shut off. Obviously the system is still on, but it's nice to hear it shut off while waiting for a new ignition. Be careful in handling the small speaker; it is quite sensitive to moisture, obviously to water, and will never press its top where the membrane is located. I hope I have been of some help to you 😉

I will look into that thanks

Thank you

I know about the angle but the truck is not binding the way the driveshaft is

Oh no, I'm still running the stock motor and gearbox. I'm going to see how long the motor and gearbox last with all the Metal before I upgrade

@rccargarage Awesome, Thanks for answering my question!

@mitchdraper1697 no problem

Hi James and welcome to this awesome Hobby. yes you can use the 1060 esc but i would use a 370 motor for the C24. A 180 will be too small for this size rig. Im happy that you love the Hobby its a great fun one. Yes the more turns the motor the slower the vehicle goes which is good for crawling

OMg thank you thank you for answering my question... the plan is - Controller, esc, then next payday get the 370 motor an gear box and servo or maybe 2 servos. But my paydays are far between. OK OK another question, Should i get bigger battery packs? Would that hobbywing run on my stock 2s 500mAh till i get a new one ? @@rccargarage

Not a problem i like when my subscribers ask questions and i can help them out and yes that battery will work

Welcome to the crawling part of the hobby. No your not able to run without top links because they hold the axles in place so they don't move

@@rccargarage what about no bottom links with only top links?

@@rccargarage just wanting to do something custom

Nope same thing just in reverse

E eles oferecem portes de envio normalmente

Obrigado eu ja tinha visto esse kit mas quando comprei este foi mesmo por ser muito mas barato do que o site tinha. Eu sim será mente não ia fazer nada com este Truck mas decidi em fazer alguma coisa. Eu já recebi mais upgrades para ela agora neste próximo vídeo espero que anda melhor. Obrigado pela amizade abraço

A Ford 1:6 vai continuar a construção?

@@RcTimes2055 infelizmente não eu por acaso fiz um vídeo mas o body partiu a uma maneira que nem dá graça de tentar arranjar mas eu tenho outro body para continuar com o 1:6