Love sitting down with a cup of coffee and watching your vids Kenny. Thanks for making them man. All the best. Be safe Rod

I leave the wires connected to the old cap & just lay the cap to the side. After installing the new distributer, I switch the wires over one at a time to the new cap. Also, by pulling the old cap off, I verify by the direction of the rotor I'm not installing the new distributer 180% out.

I had a 1991 Honda civic dx, left me stranded twice because of a bad igniters. Other than that the car ran great for 299,899 miles before I gave it away. Never consumed oil between oil changes, one the best engines ever made.

I’ll be your camera man just to watch you work on cars. You have a lot of experience and knowledge that I wish I had.

Thanks for the video Kenny, never had any problem with my Hondas like that.

“Am I going in correctly?” Prom night all over again.

Great video Kenny - simple, basic dianostics explained very clearly.

Just wanted to say thanks for the videos. I appreciate anyone that can add to my knowledge of things. Enjoy the stories too.

found with some side mounted distributors that the oil seal fails on them and oil get's into the distributor and the pickup sensor cannot read as long as the oil is present , cleaned it out and presto working again . fixed my brother in laws car like that ,

Neighbor kid replaced his wouldn’t start came and asked me to see if I could help. Looked good wires right etc. he had charger on it. I told him hold accelerator to floor after it’s charged it’s probably flooded. WORKED👍

Most cars any more don't like to be low on voltage according to my buddy that has forgotten more about computers than I ever knew. Early Ford Escorts used to have that same issue. I had an 83 that had the exact problem except that had a module you could replace. Thanks for the memories.

Dude you are an awesome mechanic

Another good one Kenny. Keep wrenching.

That’s interesting.

Good job have a Accord my self thank you for the video

Love that engine, wish they would bring it back.

That intermittent spark you can easily check that the wires to the internal module from the tiny pick up coil have the insulation fall off them, and intermittently short the coil so no spark. Available as a spare part, though the electronic module can also give issues, especially if somebody used silicone sealer instead of silicone thermal compound to mount it.

The stalling accord could be the ignition switch. Super common on older Hondas

Great videos Kenny thank you.

Nice headliner. Lol that would drive me crazy driving around with car like that

The symptoms you were describing around 2:50 of an accord losing spark then regaining it immediately or after sitting for a bit. I had this problem on an accord before. The car would run flawlessly, but when you shut the car off it wouldn't start again - no spark. If you let it set a few minutes to an hour spark would be back and it would run perfectly until you shut it off again. It ended up being an ignition coil.

It’s like watching one of those old detective shows. Who done it? The fuel pump, the battery, the coil, the fuse, aha! The distributor cap with weak battery and fuel flood.

Easiest way to do it is undo the screws on both caps. Switch over the leads and then when you install the distributor you can turn the rotor button to line up the shaft. It shows Kenny didn't go to automotive school and or had a bad teacher.

Good job

I remember replacing the distributor cap on an older Honda that would run erratically. Found out it had a hairline crack shorting the High Voltage to ground.

My 2000 accord had intermittent stalling / no start. After a long time of trying to figure it out, turned out to be the evap canister electronics.

All ways keep it simple fab video 1😊

My 1999 Accord was such a great car! I sold it in 2020 but I STILL see it around town! It has well over 300,000 miles on it. When I sold it it actually needed new oil seal on distributer shaft. ❤😂

I had the same problem and never thought to charge the battery until now. 12:11

Great video!

Thanks; that was a cool video (what did you use to film it). My Honda Accord 2001 had a P1318 code, which would not always start, so I changed the distributor. It ran better after changing the distributor, but I still have the same issue and get the P1318 code. It could be the battery or the alternator. Also, it is past time to change the timing belt, and now it is limiting (cutting off) at 5000 rpm.

Awesome Kenny.

This is what mines doing I’d just got. It’s been sitting for 4 years hmmm 2002 though not a 99

My dad had a 98 CR-V which had a CEL on. Did the code flash count with a paper clip, indicated faulty cam position sensor. That happens to live inside the distributor. Turned out the easiest, and believe it or not, cheapest way to fix it, was a whole new distributor. He sadly lost that vehicle only a few months later, via the Takata air bag rifle buy back 😔

Thank you Kenny!

Similar distributor setup as in the Ford Escort. The pickup coil would fail open when hot.

My 02 accord with 401K miles somehow still has its original distributor. Starting to consider carrying a new one around. 🤣

I have same issue to bad do I am in Guatemala and here parts a way to expensive. Looking for a used one but seems like I am looking for more problems . Thanks for the video master. I have a Honda Accord 1998 I been with this car since 2000 and is first time give me trouble. . Thanks again for the video. ND ofcourse I droped the like.

Kenny hi nice video I had no idea how pricy this part went for I looked it up on 2 online parts stores that I use and the prices were so high

Good video Kenny. Threw my old timing light away few years back. Remember pumping the pedal?

Great job

Gotta love reliable cars with reliable failures 😆 🤣 Distributer, cap/rotor, coil in the driver kick panel, were always the repair with a honda no start 😅😅. Good show sir!

I would have taken the distributor cap off the verify where the rotor button was pointing. Then you could mark the rotor button to the engine for more of an exact installation.

Good job Kenny

"Nut Wax" is amazing stuff.

I put in a new distributor on my 1993 Honda prelude, it would crank but not start. After the new one was installed it still cranked but didn’t start. I noticed that I had to have the distributor positioned in a certain angle for it to start the car.

Old skool is good, stil Kenny that sometimes can save you 😊

Will the rockers still move if the distributor is bad or are the rockers not moving because the timing belt broke

good vid and you sorted the problem out . but i would have took the cap off ,just to conferm there was nothing simple gone wrong with the distriutor before investing in a whole distributor . it could have been just the cap or rotor ?

Electrical part of ignition switch or fuel pump relay

Ive put new distributor on, new fuel relay, spark plugs, (after I replaced the seals on spark plug wells, and gaskets, .... it will start and run great, get you where you're going. But when you jump in to go home...no start , no start, no start. Im so frustrated.

Unfiltered air N-G Happy Easter Sir!

I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX v6, it’s doing the same thing as this car. I had the serpentine belt changed, drove 2 minutes to the store and shut the car off, crunk it back up.. the oil light and battery light came on so I shut the car back off. Tried to crank it back up and it just wouldn’t start. It’s turning, but won’t start.

I bet that distributor isn't cheap either. Used to replace them on the old Ford '80s 4 cylinder cars because you couldn't get them apart most of the time to replace the electronic ignition module.

My 2000 accord will run until the motor is hot then dies,might be 30 40 min later then its starts back up and stalls then doesn't restart until cold

I replaced the head gasket on this Honda Civic. It started up and ran, then stalled. As you can see in the video, it does have spark! Another place replaced the distributor. It ran. kzfaq.infowY3SCWqVw7E?feature=share

Who filled the headliner with water? Looking like it was ready to pop open! The early Ford flathead engines from 32-48 had the same type of distributor drive off the front cover of the timng gears.

That Honda that stops running may have a bad ignition switch. I had the same problem.

This one took me by surprise because my recollection of cylinder numbering is different in a different transverse four cylinder Honda engine. To my surprise on looking it up, Honda cylinder numbering is not uniform for their transverse engines. I didn't know it can be either way depending on the engine. Specifically the B series 4 cylinder transverse engine 1988-2001 engine has #1 on the left side, and the K series 4 cylinder transverse engine 2001-2011 #1 was on the right side. Why? Is the transmission bolted on the opposite side for those numbered the opposite way?

Any idea could this be the problem why my injectors wont spray?

My oil seal failed and let oil get inside my dist...as for "the other" accord, my 99 did the same thing, ended up having to replace the ignition wires in steering column...

I always check my test lights

👍

My 2000 accord 2.3L had a MASSIVE oil leak. Ended up being the gasket on the vvt solenoid. I replaced it, fixed the leak. I also changed the plugs, wires and rotor in the distributor. Started up and drove like it was brand new. Then, I got a new ac control unit bc mine was faulty so I couldn’t use my ac. Once I got that new control head, about 4 days afterwards it would start to act like it wanted to kill the car when I had the ac on. Then it would only blow cold while driving. Now my car won’t start at all. I show I have spark. Anyone have any ideas what that could be? I’m just starting to look into it. I hope it’s simple. I took the distributor cap off and had my girl crank it and it’s turning like it should. I do have a question on if that rotor should turn quick or somewhat slow tho. Mine wasn’t turning very fast. Is this normal?

Bro I got honda spike 2012 model it not starting

Let’s go

Thank s

Getting at diagnosis

Mine wouldnt start. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuse. Than it ran for about a week and i noticed in the morning it would start but not when it was hot in the afternoons so i replaced the main fuel relay and found the sodder was damaged. Starts and runs now but now it sounds like it cranks longer than it use too, barely starting. Idk what the hell it is now

Excellent video. I need timing belt installed for 1999 Honda CR-V. Interested in fixing before Memorial day.. Can I schedule an appointment Kenny? Driving from Fort Lee, N.J. to do it

I have a 99 accord, it would shut off on you but you would oull over and it would start, turned out it was ignition switch.

I have this same problem with my 2000 honda accord ex crack but no start I have heard that this could be cause by a bad relay switch do you think I should try an replace the distributor first then the relay lmk ?

Very good lessons to be learned. What is wrong with the headliner- are rodents or heat causing it to sag.

Is there a fuse for the ignition coil? It would be advised to check that as well.

Cranking cadence at the beginning of the video sounds like it has a very low compression in one cylinder.

Lotta cars you have in the que.

Dude's putting metal tools and other metal objects right by the battery terminals....

I'd still be driving my 97 civic HX 549k but too rusty, still runs.

Can't the dist be 180° off?

Why would you not pull the cap and check the rotor first?

I've put modules and coils in them distributors and it's easy. If charging for a complete distributor I'd say you are over charging.

So I’ve replaced spark plugs due to oil being in them, new wires, have gas lol, new spark plug seals, and can’t seem to get it started. Not throwing a code at all so makes it that much more mysterious. Sister was using car and came to a stop and it died! I’ve tried all I know so anyone got any ideas by chance before I call a mobile mechanic to see if they can help me

That undulating starter speed indicates a low compression cylinder, doesn't it?

My Honda integra 1996 no check engine light don’t com on so it doesn’t start

Ummmm, why didn't disconnect the battery? 8:14 I thought it was always the thing you need to do.

if it doesn't start in 30 sec there is something wrong don't keep cranking.

Just glad I don't own a vehicle with that type of distributor set up anymore Cheers.

Not going to put a timing light on that engine?

Those dam old Honda distributor are weird as F, l had a old Honda civic drove the car all day turn off it won't start the dam coil burned up.

Drivtability that's easy for you to say 😂

For ( the little module on the driver side that run the injection has bad modern joints don't let it bite you in the ass

My first "old school " thought was, points and/or condenser, and it was, sort of, lol. In re to the low crank issue. I've found that on Chrysler/Dodge vehicles that they will crank with less than 12volts but not start. I was told that the ECU needs at least 12v to operate. So, the charge enabled the computer to turn on. It was, indeed flooded but the initial voltage is critical. Ive found this to be the case many times. So thought I'd pass it along.

Great video!!