Excellent job. You could've screwed the customer by doing a fuel pump replacement and he/she would've never known. But you didn't do that. You're an honest mechanic. Keep wrenchin'

It’s amazing what these shops diagnose and charge (not repair, rip-off). Stealerships are suffering similar fates if not worst from bogus certified techs misdiagnosing to smoking jobs and warranty work. Your diagnostic on the Nitro was spot on. The power probe is essential to any modern mechanic but a $15 voltmeter can read values and pinpoint accurately to the beholder. The most vital tool in any field sits between your ears.

Great information for novice mechanics. Basic work can solve many issues.

I'm glad my instinct was correct. I always use a little bit of anti-seize on spark plugs even though the new cars claim you should not. Glad to see a real mechanic who does this as my instinct always wants too.

Kenny, great channel. Started my apprenticeship in 1984, worked pretty much in dealerships my whole career (12 years as a workshop foreman) without seeing any fuel injected cars flooding (that I can remember), thought that was only for carburetted vehicles. 6 years ago, I started working for a roadside breakdown company here is Australia. Can't count how many fuel injected vehicles I have attended that would not start due to flooding. We called it a 'washdown'. Usually occurs when the car is started cold in a garage for example and moved back 10 feet on to the driveway to be washed. This is the scenario that gives the highest chance for no start again. From what I understand, the ECU goes to cold start (on choke) but does not finish it's cycle before the engine is turned off. Next time it it tried to start it doubles down and goes to cold start again causing the flooding. Usually accompanied by what sounds like lack of compression which i think is the fuel 'washing down' the bores preventing compression build up. With a jump pack on to prevent killing the battery, the starter is cranked with wide open throttle until it eventually starts blowing excessive blue smoke out of the exhaust. Sometimes I pause the cranking to let the starter cool off but has never failed. Mazda RX8's can be very stubborn though. I have heard (although never experienced) diesels can suffer the same scenario too.

I appreciate your attention to safety. Safety measures should always be kept in mind no matter how mundane they might seem. Double checking the hood latch is much better than taking a hood to the windshield. Small details that save a lot of headaches and heartaches. Good stuff man!

I've had customers get mad because I didn't change out the part that they self diagnosed as being bad, even though that would not have fixed the problem. I have also changed out the part that the customer said was bad, knowing that was not the problem. I do that when the customer insists that they know replacing the part will fix the problem, but I know that is will not fix the problem. It depends on the customer. After almost 50 years, I can tell how the customer is going to react, so I treat them accordingly.

I literally had a crank but no start on my Corolla today. Took it into a shop for an oil change and air filter about 1,000 miles ago. Looked underneath the hood and lo and behold, my air box wasn’t clamped down all the way. Unplugged the MAF sensor and it started up just fine. Took out the sensor, cleaned it up, plugged it back in and it’s starting up just fine. I’m kicking my self for not checking the air box when I got my car back from the shop!

You have a special gift of technical knowledge and communication skills. Listening to you is a real pleasure. Thanks

I was a tech for years and you always say the correct things that a pro should say. The beginning of this video is a great example. I wish you lived near me as I would give you all of my car maintenance and repair monies! I've checked out a bunch of tech channels. This is the only one I watch the episodes all the way through.

K&N users will most definitely need periodic MAF sensor cleanings

Dude your awesome! I changed my coil packs to aftermarket and my Toyota was studdering, went to oem, and the problem solved.

Absolutely agree with you on "don't tell me what the solution is". Nothing like going done a rabbit hole that one or more people have already been down! Great stuff Kenny!

Great content again. I'd like to see you just do a quick look over an engine and determine for us diy'er's. Like the pull plugs thing you did and see what they tell you. What you can do as a shade tree guy can figure out what may be wrong before you take it to a professional to do the things we can't do. I was raised poor as pete and we had to work on our cars (and I loved/love it) but it's way past my learning curve now nor do I have the tools. A list of what a shade tree guy needs for random tools we can use as well. BTW...Thanks. You've taught me a ton

It's always nice to hear how much money you saved your customers.

Using anti-seize is a great idea for spark plugs that may be installed for years BUT be careful with how you handle the spark plugs! I've seen folks handle the insulator of a spark plug with anti-seize all over their hands. Anti-seize is conductive. That's a great way to get a carbon track across the insulator from the nut to the high voltage terminal of the plug, and, as a bonus, kiss the plug wire goodbye for that cylinder too. Also, there is a high temperature anti seize that has a copper color. That stuff is great for exhaust manifolds so why not spark plugs? Just keep it off of the ceramic insulator of the plug.

Kenny, I ran into a similar problem with my son's 2013 Corolla with 35,000 miles. Car ran fine the night before, he tried to start it the next morning, just cranked no start. He had it towed in for service. Tech replaced 4 plugs (due to fouling) and the car was fine. My son admitted that he would sometimes turn the key too quick, and then it was harder to start. I searched on different Toyota forums and found as you said it is a common problem especially if you don't hold the key in the start position long enough for the car to start the first time. The fix was to hold the accelerator to the floor (so the fuel pump is off) and crank until the engine starts. Never had a problem after that. Thanks for your detailed videos.

Thank you for the sound advice and commentary during the actual work. Your years of experience are greatly appreciated when you offer your own personal viewpoint. In my 57yrs working as a mechanic I only encountered ONE (1) other mechanic whom I did not check their work. Literally no other mechanic I worked with earned my approval to that degree. I'd like to offer that Some sparkplugs have higher internal resistance than others. So it is critical to know you have the correct resistance. Older plugs had the letter R in the number designating Resistor plug. ie: RJ8 Sometimes that resistance can stop the spark from making it across the gap. Usually it means there is another issue like bad plug wire, bad coil or distributer cap/ rotor on older vehicles. Adding the resistance of the plug can be the limiting factor. And older sparkplugs can gain resistance as they age too. tnx bc

I like that you described how to properly check, gap and install spark plugs. OEM sparks plugs are typically the best way to go. I typically like to remove the throttle body to do cleanings, however, having previously worked on Infiniti's, and I am 100% positive this goes for many other makes and models, you cannot always just manually open a throttle blade and expect it to function properly after the cleaning is done. Sometimes a throttle body relearn process is needed after manually opening throttle blades. Just something to be aware of. Also, when a vehicle sits overnight and the next morning there is a flooded or lack of fuel type symptom, it is possible to have a faulty fuel pressure valve that is allowing the fuel to leak down back into the tank instead of holding the pressure at the rail. I know you did a basic tune up, but could you maybe do a video on different methods of fuel injector cleaning services and which type of methods you have actually found to be beneficial? Regardless of my opinions, keep the videos coming, you my friend help a lot of people perform basic do it yourself repairs and tune-ups that other mechanics do not want to share.

your approach to trouble shooting ignoring what the customer thinks is great

Had an 03 suburban with the 5.3 that was misfiring and running rough/stalling. Changed plugs/wires, cleaned MAF sensor, still ran rough but didn't stall anymore at idle. At my wit's end when I thought about the throttle body. That was all gummy with dirt and who knows what else, actually took it off and cleaned/scrubbed it. Put it back on and runs as it should now. Never occurred to me before how much that affect the engine running. Added that to the list of items to check/clean periodically.

I had the same thing with my '99 Dodge Dakota. I installed a set of Champion spark plugs from NAPA that were platinums and my truck ran extremely horrible. Bought OEM Champion spark plugs from the dealership and my truck ran as good as new. So for now on I only use OEM spark plugs as well as other parts. Great video! I had this issue with my wife's 2012 RAV4 with the 2.5 and new OEM spark plugs, new air filter, and PCV valve (which is a pain to change because its under the intake manifold) and it cured the rough idle and the hard starting when cold.

I learned my lesson thru trial & error. My 1997 Toyota Camry 2.2 4cyl requires double electrode spark plugs because of "waste spark management ignition system" meaning one coil fires 2 plugs at once. Yes, car will run on single electrode sparks plugs but not correct.

I wish I had a mechanic like you here in Lawrence Co Pa. All my vehicles would come to only you.

Glad to see a first gen ( 1999-2001) Honda CR-V in the background. I have one . A bad 02 sensor caused erratic/looping idle. All symptoms pointed to throttle body malfunction or intake manifold gasket vacuum leak but replacing 02 sensor fixed problem & restored correct idle. Parts seem to be hard to find because almost extinct in NJ/Eastern PA. area... Please make videos of anything and everything for the CR-V if you could. Much appreciated.

Thanks for the journey. It’s a pleasure to watch/listen to you work.

Back in the days of carburetors with mechanical choke it was common for cars to get extremely flooded. They were usually set up to open up with the pedal to the floor but most people didn't know how that worked. Plus they had accelerator pumps which squirted gas with every push of the pedal. Fuel injection cars don't usually have any problems and start great every time but it still can happen when you have a bad start or run engine less than a minute and you stall it or shut it off. Luckily they work sort of the same way when opened up all the way.

Absolutely agree 100% with your opening statements. As a customer, I learnt that one the hard way where the mechanic did what I said and not fix the actual problem. I couldn’t very well complain could I 🤠 As a teenager a friends mum went into a mechanic and said “it’s broken up the front in the motor bit” Her problem was fixed first go.

I really appreciate your expertise and your method for diagnostics. Wish you were closer to Boston...my home town. Thanks for sharing

My Toyota threw those same lights. O2 sensor code. Cleared. Also I just bought it so I'm changing out all the service items this weekend. Throttle body and maf getting a clean too. Oh, and the under body is getting rust prevention treatment. UK roads.

Also thanks for keeping [me as a customer] just the facts, the car does not start! That is your business to figure out why. Thank you for the great videos.

I bought a Rav with 206 k miles: changed plugs and found original factory plugs still there after 200k . They have yellow paint markings on them from the factory . Car is 2009 2ARFE. And runs great . Did do valve cover gasket for leak. Should go another 100 k

Another great video my friend nothing better than a honest experienced mechanic as you that tells it as it is good stuff stay humble 👍👍👍

Hilarious 😂... No you don't need a 31/2 foot breaker bar... you need a 4 footer.... awesome tutorial.

What a clever and cool mechanic you are, really very good sir. Been watching a lot of your videos and this one is one of those that almost similar to our Toyota Fortuner (Philippines) VVTi engine that we have (2012 model year), AT at 51389 km on it. We only have changed a set of top gaskets a year back and the rests were just plugs (OE Bosch) and regular change oil every 5k on engine. I do a lot of DIY on this one except on opening engines thou ... Thank you so much for sharing your actual works and knowledge this way (KZfaq) ... Cheers

I have a 2021 Dodge Ram 2500 with a Cummin’s. Got a light on it and it perplexed the dealer for over a week. I kept seeing online stuff about the air filter but I wasn’t gonna tell a pro how to do his job. I told them it had an oil change two weeks before and the air filter had been changed. BINGO! That particular motor is VERY picky about air filters.

I wish you were around when I was an apprentice mechanic. That was before the spotted cow died.

You are absolutely right about the Never seize, often I find poor continuity on multiple cars electrical components, once the rich high milage is very common to find that across try he whole electrical systems.

tHAT'S REAL GOOD INFO TO HAVE. Mine is at about 55k and I know things like that are gonna start showing up

In the 90's I ALWAYS had issues with Champion sparkplugs on my 2 strokes. Would put in a new one, ride for 15-30 minutes, shut it off and let it cool, it would never start again. Or if it would, it would misfire like crazy. I guess with 2 strokes the gap is of more importance than 4 strokes. With even 0.1mm difference I could feel it. Smaller gap would have a lazy engine at low rpm, but run to a little higher rpm, while with a larger gap the engine would behave the other way around.

As an owner of a 1999 Toyota Solara 3.0 V6, I would say my old Astro van would warm up faster to obtain operating temperature in cold weather than this car.does. My new shtick is that after a couple minutes, I just go in first gear at whatever the engine is idling at around 1100-1300 RPMs, I just crawled on the street at 2 to 4 mph. This tactic warms up the engine quicker than just idling in place.

My car won't start??? I think it needs a new tyre 🤣🤣🤣Great channel Kenny

Hey, liking the channel! 'Nothing like dealing with a bad diagnosis! Back in the 90's I picked up a low mileage '85 Chrysler LeBaron (I liked the handy hatchback!); about 2 years later, after weathering a storm of freezing rain/slushy snow followed by total deep freeze, and I encountered several Failure to Start events; first time I thought it might be the neutral cutout on the ignition circuit (had that on another car), so I fiddled the transmission shifter, and cycled the ignition and it started up! A day or so later, it killed on me about 3 blocks after I left work; I had it towed to a shop I thought was competent; they laid some jazz on me about how it needed a new distributor gear & shaft...seemed odd to me, but the estimate wasn't a crazy number, so, I said if that fixed it, fine, I can pay that...and they got it working...until the next fall, had a similar problem at my house, but didn't see a connection; had it towed 1/2 mile to the Chrysler dealer near my house; they told me it needed a new timing belt: it was at the mileage for that, so again, I said OK, but I asked them to leave me the old belt...finally, sometime, later in the winter, it happened again, although, I had been laid off, so had some flexibility in addressing it, so I put it under a blanket in my garage, with a heater, and went back out after things had had a chance to warm up to the mid 20's, or so: and while it started up, after 5 or 6 incidents of FTS, I didn't trust it, and decided it might be a bad Ignition Control Module: threre was a bit of work pulling off the ducting for the air intake/air filter box behind the battery, and after that was clear, a bundle of wires nearer the battery was visble, part of which was wrapped in 12 year-old black fabric tape. I noticed a grayish-white dusty spot, and reflexively shifted into 'Curious George Mode', and unwrapped it, exposing a now unsecured junction in a power lead coming off the battery (can't remember what it went to, anymore...) where the ~5/16 inch spade connector was VERY corroded! So, when it was wet, and stayed wet, it was conducting electricity across the wet stuff, enough to get it started and running, but, when it got below ~20°F, all moisture froze, and it would not conduct (enough) electricity: this was consistent with ALL of the FTS incidents! There was a little slackin the wires, so I trimmed them to bright copper, and slapped a butt connector in there, and VoiLa! It was good to go! Fortunately, I had NOT broken the seal on the ICM, and was able to return it for full refund! Which was nice, because I had already had it in shop twice, and paid for a (likely fraudulent) repair job that I didn't need, without resolving this potentially dangerous issue. Car worked fine for another year, or so, until a power steering hose failed on me on a curved highway ramp, and it went badly! C'est La Vie!

I'm the same way brother I just want to know myself and thanks for another great class

You are a Great teacher for people want to DIY Fixing Thanksx

A little fyi NGK bought acdelco so all acdelco plugs are actually NGK made now. We make them at our West Virginia factory.

I'm glad you mentioned very short trips in a car. if an engine is to be started it needs to be brought up to operating temperature. if not, condensation will build up from just getting luke warm and then cooling off again. if you see yellow goo that looks like white lithium grease under your oil cap or valve cover that's it, and it's not good. my employer has an AMG Benz and he does that, runs it for like 2 minutes then shuts it off. I try to tell him..

I'm beginning to think there are few competent mechanics left in the world because all others only want to replace everything based on nothing....no true diagnostics done, no troubleshooting, etc....annoying to no end let me tell you. Good info.....thx!!

So did you ever hear back from the customer? The reason I asked is my cousin owns a Rav4 identical to the one you worked on. Few years ago at roughly the same mileage it developed random no start issues and running lean codes. After doing the tune up similar to what you did it would still have occasional no starts. It did end up being the fuel pump. Also the blue smoke on these engines could be because they are notorious for piston ring problems and oil consumption. Toyota even had a limited campaign replacing pistons and rings on Rav4 and Camry.

Listening to your videos is like hearing myself speak I must be doing something right

Near and dear to me, as we are having exactly the kind of winter weather you are describing! Also, we have a Toyota Camry...

"Cold enough (mid 30's) to maybe need a jacket"! Say What!? Hell, I ain't ever leave'n South Florida! Wakodahatchee Chris

Man made the computer but the creator made the man who wins is the man . God has given you the wisdom which is more powerful than the so called computer. Cause at the end of the day computer is made by a man to tell you only about fuses and relays plus sensors that's it. U are blessed mate . Have a nice day.

Why would somebody put all brand new coils on it and not change the spark plugs that’s kinda defeating the purpose

I remember my 01 Saturn SL2 got where it wouldn’t start and I had to stand on the gas pedal to get it to start. Turned out to be ECTS and as soon as I replaced that with one from Dorman I think, it starts right back up every time again. Sometimes it idles way too high and a tank of gas with SeaFoam and another tank will settle the idle back down. But when it’s up it’s up, 2000-2500 rpm for idle for the few hundred miles it takes to run the gas and cleaner through it.

I have a friend who owns a radiator repair shop, he lives just around the corner from his shop but goes for a drive around town to warm it up instead of just driving straight to the shop

Didn't read all comments so this may have been said before. The reason OE plugs work better is they can be indexed as in a Mercedes V8 the OE plugs are indexed to the direct injector nozzle. Indexing is set by torque readings of the plug hence NO antisieze.

"Needs fuel pump" - "Is there fuel in the tank?". That's what I have seen on one car. As for spark plugs - I believe you, I did have an engine that didn't work well until it got NGK plugs. So the plug makes a difference.

I loved your approach and your professionalism! New subscriber, Sir! Thank you

CRC Loves this guy he uses a half a can of cleaner for one mas air flow sensor

I see this all the time. Clean your throttle body first then start you engine and run it so you don't get new plugs dirty from the start. Then put new plugs in. I use a rubber hose that fits the top of the plug. Reason is you will never cross the threads up that way. Plus you don't have to worry about the plug falling out of the socket and mess your clearance up. Never stick your finger in there to open the butterfly. On some engine it can slam shut and cut your finger off. If you can take it off to clean it is the best way. But still do not use your finger to clean it.

Turn ignition on jam a piece of 2 x 4 or prybar on the pedal and use the seat to adjust it to hold it wide open while you’re doing it if it’s electronically controlled

Nice video. I found it interesting what you said about different spark plugs affecting the engine performance. Good sharing of knowledge.

Nice job...yes agree to anti seize anyone doesn't change enough spark plugs or work in salt belt states know the life struggle

What's great about your videos,I feel that I'm right behind you watching and learning as you do your steps! 👍 Thanks!

Explains a lot on why my Rav blew smoke after moving it in the driveway. Thanks

If you use anti seize on spark plugs ,use copper based anti seize. It is rated for a higher temperature and will not gall the threads.

Always a good video! That experience/wisdom and common sense is off the charts.I have a question I have a 2001 Silverado once in a while a spark plug literally stops working even if it’s new still puzzled on why. Plug looks new no darkness or white just like a fuse stops working but nothing looks cracked nor anything.

I agree with using anti-seize on spark plug threads. I've always done so on my own car. I also torque the plugs to spec. I have looked at several sources that claim you should use ~20% less torque if you are using anti-seize. The argument seems to be that the anti-seize reduces the threads' resistance so if you use the recommended torque value, you can over torque it. Do you agree? So far, I have used anti-seize AND torqued the plugs to spec. I haven't damaged anything yet as far as I can tell.

Take away from this video is 1. Remember the basics. 2. Due diligence, diagnos and confirm.

Bernie Thompson quoted a study where the best thing to use on spark plug threads is a copper antisieze . I wish i got paid to do study's like that!

nice job kenny

Brilliant video, you have the best content on maintenance on you tube!

I only trust myself to trouble shoot a problem and never take a dealer ship word they tell customers crazy stuff

Thanks for the great information.

I had something similar happen to our Corolla a few years ago. It was cold one night, probably around zero degrees overnight. I started it to move off the street we were parked on. The next day it was around 40 degrees. I tried to start it and it sounded like it had no compression. Probably due to cylinder wash. It was like it was still trying to run super rich for the cold Temps the night before. I did WOT, or clear flood mode crank and it started up instantly

Use the change plugs on my first 2 vehicles quite a bit. Bought a 77 grand prix with a motor from an 81 firebird. It got great gas mileage. Would drive to another town to visit friends 100 miles away and could go there and back on a quarter tank of gas. But it seemed like it wasn't operating as full as it should. Changed the filthy air filter and the plugs. Had to use a big cheater bar to remove most of them. That thing roared like it was suppose to after that, but the good gas mileage went away also.

I have a 2003 Rav4 and if it sits a while it will blow smoke on start up. There is a known design problem where the valve guide seals leak causing the smoke. That may be one of the issues you see on some Toyotas.

And if you’re worried about, it’s flooded out getting a vehicle, put it in a flood mode hold your foot on the break hold accelerator to the floor and push the button or turn the key until it starts. Some of them do not have a flood mode you will know it. Yes because OE has high resistance aftermarket has low resistance. Test the PCV valve you could tell if it’s working or leaking. Most people just replace them because they’re so cheap and as far as Zane sees. Oh yes, it will cause misfires badly. I’ve done it.

what i do as far as anti seize go's is..... aluminum anti seize gos on all aluminum type engine blocks and the copper type anti seize go's on all the rest. has worked good for me, and your right on bout the amount of anti seize used... as it is said " a little dab will do ya"!!! thanks for another fine vidio!!

I've had the same spark plug experience with my Crown Vic. Expensive Bosch plugs -> misfire. Back to Motorcraft -> fine

Think that happened to my vehicle the other week. Had to change my license plates as mine expire and the state has a new plate design this year. Was checking fluids, and wanted to make sure the thermostat was stuck open, so ran it like a minute, was cold outside, didn't seem to be flowing past the thermostat, so most likely working fine, doesn't overheat either. Next day it would crank and spin the motor but didn't want to start. Once I got it started it did seem like it might have been flooded.. been fine ever since. Chevy, but motor by Suzuki...

One bad ground, particularly those under front carpets and corroded from trapped moisture is one if the primary cause if the Tri-fecta of Brake System, Traction Control, and any other light that is on for no good reason.

I wonder if some reason the ECU isn't coming out of open loop mode (if they still have open loop mode) and is adding fuel for some reason. I don't know that's the only thing I can think of. As far as the anti-seize goes I think the misfire may come from getting it on the electrode by being sloppy. Like you I've never seen it happen and I always use anti-seize when I'm putting steel in aluminum threads. Keep the good stuff coming.

I NEVER had any luck with Champion spark plugs. I prefer NGK on every car I worked on or own

Amazing! Thank you man!

Very fine, Kenny!

Ken, thank you for making this video! How long is the Life of these Plugs? when to change again?

That bit about scratching the precious metal coating off the spark plug electrode was a " point of light" to me. I've seen issues with these plugs that never really madw sense. This did. The manufacturer isn't using any more precious metal than they have to. Using the plugs that the ignition system was engineered to work with makes sense. Something else may work " just as good" but isn't likely to work better. Never-seize... keep it off the end of the plug. It can short the electrode, damage the O2 sensors and catalytic converter. Keep it off the insulator, it causes a short. Put a little on the threads, all those other problems are still cheaper and easier to fix than stripped plug threads in a head.

It's not just Toyota's that flood, I work in roadside in Australia and have seen everything from Hyundai, Ford, Holden(GMC), to Nissan's flood. And it's as you say, they usually start it cold to either get another car out or wash that car and turn it off too quick and then it won't start again.

I've seen the same thing with different plugs. Put a set of Bosch in my scion, ran terribly. Switches to some denso iridium power, smooth as butter.

Great video thank you I have the same rav4 and it’s going to get the same service in the spring

I have customers tell me this to avoid the Diag fee. I simply ask them if they want me to replace that part and if so, prepay me. I'm not an ass but as you well know stress management is a big thing for Mechanics / Technicians. An automobile, just in repairing the vehicle has its own art form of causing stress. In Toyota, other codes simply "piggy back" off of others is how I explained it to customers. My regular customers know to let me Diag the vehicle. They also get a break.

Mid 30s we're in parkas on the Texas coast!!

Kenny Great Job!

Toyota's notorious P0 171 bank 1 lean dirty air flow meter I've only actually replaced like 2 air flow meters on Toyota's and 20 some years always dirty. And it took me a long time to realize just because that's easy and I know what it is. That's not mean I should not make at least an hour minimum to fix it I means I know what I'm doing and I should get paid. Just a little advice for other people.

Nice job 👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏

i made the same mistake, now cleaning the throttle.. .thanks

Good content 👍 thanks.very Informative.

Very informative and interesting!