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watching Sunday Church again

bit like a fernox filter? good point

Thanks. This Sunday will be a interesting storry too. Including Toyota jokes as well. And lost of Aussi references. Christian

@@Vera_and_Christian Japanese engines including Toyota, Yanmar, are the most reliable and bulletproof diesel engines ever, you could use oils like quaker state, valvoline, duckhams, Castrol, motul, these oils will never cause any damage to these engines

IMO the 1960s Beatles were the best. ;)

@michael this is good information, but I'm trying to work out that it's a choice between trying to preserve/ extend the life of your crankshaft & bearings by going up to 5W/40 or even 50 - vs - keeping the DPF happy. If I go up to 5w/40 or 50 will it croak my DPF? as the current 5W/30 is low SAPS designed to work with the DPF. Cheers.

@@tyronemessiah4479 Hi Tyrone, for the DPF its important to choose an oil with low ashes. The ashes in the DPF are increasing accumulative during the life cycle of the DPF. They dont quit with the regeneration. Pay attention to the abreviation "C3". This indicates a still tolerable ash content of the engine oil for engines equipped with DPF. The highest viscosity I found in synthetic oils not passing the C3 specs is the 5W40 edge turbo diesel from castrol. on 5W30 oils you may find lower ashes but its cheap (300 Eur?) to bring your exhaust equipment with a clogged DPF to a special company which burns also the ashes out of your DPF. And then, if not damaged before, its like new. You should then reset your regeneration algorithm! with a diagnose tool. Its much more expensive to buy a new engine. The weakest point of your engine seems to be the width of the bearings. And this can only be partly compensed by using a higher viscosity. Keep in mind that you have a lubrification gap between Crankshaft and bearing. on the outer sides the dynamic oil pressure is 0 because the oil escapes into atmosphere, towards the oil pan. the bigger the gap, the thinner the oil, the smaller is the real usable bearing width which has to withstand the forces. So the only parameter you can influence is the oil viscosity. The influence is not marginal! Cheers

Just one more remark: The higher viscosity of the engine oil does not only benefit the dynamic lubrification principle and the load on the bearings, it also increases the oil pressure in idle and therefore the supply of the bearings. It works against the natural worn of the oil pump and the lower thickness of the oil in idle and high temperatures. The weakest moment in your lubrification circuit which may damage your bearing is after a hot engine run on the motorway going into idle, i.e. stopping at a gas station etc. From studies I know that the supply pressure after the oil pump can drop down to 0.4 bar without damaging the engine in idle. But a study is not always representative for all engines. And an oil pressure after the oil pump is varying in each position of the lub circuit.

Mine doesn't have a DPF so what 5w40 should I get ? The Magnatec C3 or B3 ? I'm actually using the Motul 913D A5/B4 and I don't have any sound like this at idle.. any thoughts ?

@@raph4013 Hi Ralph, I am not an engine Guru. But what I know is that the C Spec is only qualifying the modern diesel engines with Exhaust afttertreatment regarding ashes and sulphur, but at the same times accepting disadvantages regarding low friction chemicals, causing partly these ashes which may clogg the DPF. C is only a matter when you have DPF or CatCon. The noise on Veras LR3 sounds more like a leakage of the exhaust manifold, which is common on this engine. This may vary with the engine temperature. The low frequence of the noise sound like one cylinder in combustion mode and leaking through the manifold gasket. Go for synthetic oil, not lower than 40, Diesel spec. Go for an oil with HtHs above 3.5 cP. If you find something with a Viscosity of 50, it wont harm, it only stays "stiffer" at higher oil temperature meanwhile the 30 is like water at that temperature. So go for (0-5) W(40-50), HTHS >3,5 cP, B3 Spec w/o DPF (C3 in case of DPF). Change it after 10.000 km. For the DPF guys only: Your oil is getting diluted by each DPF regeneration. The Diesel fuel doesnt evaporate! So change your oil frequently when doing short trips only or slow driving in mild climatic conditions. The regeneration intervall is going from 1000 km when normal driving to 3500 km when towing only, even at slow speed. The reason is that at higher loads, as in case of towing, the egr is being closed and you have reduced particles passing the DPF. At the same time, being above 350 Centi Degrees, the DPF is self regenerating a certain amount of the filtered particles. When you have a Diagnosis tool you can see how the driving style is influencing the Regeneration frequency. But thats only important for the DPF vehicles. If you dont have a DPF you have none of these problems.

I think your conclusion in regard to the manufacturer is dead accurate 👍. Christian

Yes, should have noticed this before but I simply did not even considder that the oil-finder website are so unreliable. Really shocking. Almost destroit our engine this way. Christian

see this was what I used to do, every time they had an offer on oil I would buy some and it didn't do any harm.

Sorry for gloating again.. should have got the 4.4 V8 gas. No issues in 180k miles

Gray lettering on white background was done to save electricity (CO2). In case someone prints the webpage, they save toner and electricity. They have have saved half a ton of CO2 (the same amount of CO2 that one of the programmers exhaled in one year). Good job of exploring the surface of an issue.

@@pwatom22 that’s what I have and she has a lot of power and has been a faithful vehicle with over 180k. I feel like she’s just gotten broken in.

Let my 4.4V8 go 3 years ago,big mistake,she's comfortable into 300, 000ks now,replaced with V6SCV6,yeah,sure is nicer at the expense of a new engine,coolant hose kit(s)! Waterpump again. V8 4.4,new blood every 10k,bullet-proof.

Well said , I’ve had all sorts of land rovers including 110’s , 90’s , Discovery’s and a Rangerover over the years , the worst was the Range Rover L322 V8 diesel which had great power but literally fell to bits over the two years of ownership which was such a shame as it was so comfortable , in the end after so many bills including one for the catastrophic destruction of both turbos whilst driving to the airport then the handbrake seized on whilst driving and burnt out the rear brakes I had it repaired and traded it in loosing thousands of pounds , I’ve been driving my little 2 litre diesel 4x4 Skoda yeti now for a couple of years and have done around 50 thousand miles with not one problem ( genuine truth 💯) , it’s unbelievable how reliable the diesel Skoda is , I know it’s not as good off roading but the usual trip in a field or a flooded area it drives faultlessly which let’s face it is probably more then most Land Rover owners do.

Thanks. Christian

Thanks. Subaru is popular here as well but they are expensive and thirsty. Thanks for subscribing. Christian

Thanks. Highly appreciated. Toyota owner comments count twice in the stats. Christian

We should have done this much earlier too. I ordered now 4W40 for our LR4 as well. Christian

@@Vera_and_Christian 4W40 or 5W40?

Thanks

Hi again here just done my oil change and for the first time put in SHELL HELIX HX8 5W 40 API SN PLUS, API SN, ACEA A3/B4

Sounds like a good choice. Christian

Arg, don´t do that. Bad luck. Now you have to drive twice as long during next full moon. Christian

Are you still happy you changed to 5W-40? All good with the car?

@@chrisd4642 Yes it's been running nicely and seems to reach oil pressure much quicker. Due to be changed again now and I will be continuing with 5w40

Thanks Will. I have just changed mine at 240k miles with 5W-30 C3 magnatec, but will move to 5W-40 next time - maybe I’ll do a short interval (2-3k miles). Glad to hear it’s running well 👍🏼

@@willfrench3693 there should be no difference on cold start as viscosity is the same when cold. The difference is under heavy load where 5w40 ia better

@@kize32 agreed, I wasn't talking about cold start up

not to mention all the bearing particles, which are not magnetic

My automatic also has no drain plug. You can still drain the oil by removing the pan, which you have to do anyway to change the filter and replace the mechatronic sleeve, so long as you can get all the tech screws out.

Correct answer, I think...Unless oil is subjected to extremes of heat, the actual differences in the performance of oil of a certain viscosity is, indeed, small. Some brands of oil are better than others, but clean oil is nearly always better than dirty oil. Land Rover owners should use the viscosity and specification that the manufacturer recommends, change their oil regularly, and not get too fixated on the hope that somehow, somewhere, there's an undiscovered "magic oil" that can prevent their Land Rovers from being plagued with reliability issues.

💪👍🙋‍♀️Vera

Perfect👍, everyone should do their own research and use whatever they trust in🙋‍♀️Vera

Imagine the surprise we will have the day when he rolls in with a Toyota and offers us a tutorial on how to make some German coffee for the upcoming videos

😂🤣😂🤣😂

If you don't have a DPF then you don't have to use an ACEA C1 oil. You can use any diesel-grade motor oil you wish.

I always thought it was Molybdenum that PD engines needed.

@@MrAvant123 When VW (EU/UK) changed the 505.01 spec to the long life 507.00 they removed the ZDDP as it caused issues with DPF. Molybdenum sulfide causes problems with catalytic converters and was removed some time before. There is a brand called Liqui Moly who do a VW spec 505.01 and the used oil analysis charts I've seen on various VW TDI forums show it has almost no MoS2 in it. I'm not an oil specialist but I did spend 3 hours teaching one how to drive off road and we discussed this change. At the time I had an old TDI and the Mrs had a TDI PD. My words are not gospel however 🙂

What engine do you have

@@jmoney1674 2.7td

The Land Rover oil isn't good, they use ACEA C1 as the basis of the latest spec for the TDV6. In the latest 3L engines with DPF fuel dilution is a problem, it will consistently "make oil" about .5L to 1L within the 10k mile interval. Using C3 oil almost makes the dilution go away, the volume of oil seems to remain unchanged between services. I think ideally using ACEA E9 5W40 would reduce the number of engine failures seen and also increasing the frequency of changes to around 5k miles. Even in the 4.4L petrol engine the 5W30 recommendation doesn't seem great, I've been using 5W40 for around 40k miles and I think it runs better and much quieter. I can tell when the oil shears down as the engine gets noisier. My view is LR wants to get the best fuel numbers they can get and only care that the car survives the warranty period. Plus they like selling JLR spec'd oils for $20 per liter.

Hello Shane, thanks for your feedback (and your videos). If I understand you correctly, then it is possible that the A5/B5 could cause issues for the main- and pin bearings? I thought so too but I could not find evidence that such high temps occur in these areas. This is why I made a opposite statement in the video. Christian

@@Vera_and_Christian The A5/B5 is a spec that in my opinion is targeting fuel economy as they are specifically designed to use low viscosity oils. I personally feel that the fuel economy targets of these types of oil (including the older A1/B1 spec) will sacrifice some wear protection in exchange for the improvement to fuel economy numbers. It is becoming increasingly common to see low viscosity oils (0w-20 etc...) as manufacturers chase fuel economy targets. When I first got my D3 I was using Vavoline Synpower FE 5w-30 - meet the ford M2C-913 spec and is (currently) a A5/B5. Now running 5w-40 Valvoline synpower which is A3/B3. My oil samples between the two are a little bit of a mixed bag for results, wear rates of iron are improved with the 5w40 in the range of 17% improvement, however I do see an increase to lead (typically a bearing wear metal, but could also be anti-wear additives) in the range of 57%, but a decrease to copper of 46% (bearings). Interestingly I did have one run on mobil 1 5w40 (the only true synthetic oil I've run) and that showed a 20% increase in iron over the 5w30 (34% worse than the other 5w40 oils) , but only an 8% increase in lead (33% improvement compared to the other 5w40 oils) but a 41% improvement to copper (which was an improvement over the rest of the 5w40 oils) . So just to confuse the whole show, looking purely at my sample results I would argue that on the basis of copper in the samples there is an improvement to bearing wear - the lead results don't really fit in, but lead can be an anti wear additive which may or may not be what I'm seeing. I would say that if it was true bearing wear then copper and lead should move in similar directions together which I'm not seeing. The lower viscosity oils are worse for iron wear and from my results these engines are quite high for iron wear compared to others I've looked at - typically around double, however the bearing wear results are on the low side typically (I've seen much worse results from toyotas for bearing wear - but then again these were old 1HZ engines so the oil generally is in much worse condition for less km's travelled). Well this turned out to be a long winded post. If you want to see my data to draw your own conclusions then I'm happy to share it

😃👍🙋‍♀️Vera

Hello Cliff, funny story for sure. And the LRs fit right in. Think about how boring a Toyota would have been. Yes, it is for sure a good retirement vehicle. Christian

@@Vera_and_Christian And just as I think about looking at the exhaust, the suspension collapses. Now fitting its third compressor....!!!!

Thanks. 👍 Christian

The Ford spec is a incomplete spec and not very relevant. It only specifies that it must me a oil suitable for Diesel engines. Plus the oil manufacturer can state to meet it or not. There is no control mechanism to verify that it does. Christian

😅👍🙋‍♀️Vera

That must be the explanation ! Christian

That’s a lot of km in a warm climate. Very well 👍 Thanks, Christian

How does A3/B3 or A3/B4 compare to C1? In South Africa, many of the 5W40 recommended oils are either A3/B4 or C1.

@@ndundas c1 oil are obsolete same as A3B3 oil so you can refer to ACEA data sheet online for alternatives

@@paulwhite1542 apologies, I originally meant C3. I think I now know the diff between A3/B4 and C3 😉

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😃🙋‍♀️Vera

-35 😳😬🧦🧤🧊❄️🥶🥶🥶. Christian

@@Vera_and_Christian Sibiria, Russia)

Thank you Craig. Please write me a email if you ever test W50 oil in your high mile engine. Thanks. Christian(a)LRTime.de.

I used the low saps because then I need only one type of oil for both, my LR4 and veras LR3. Yes, a B3 Oil would even be better and C3 for our non DPF LR3. Christian

Thank you very much. Please excuse our Toyota references in every video. We like Toyota a lot and Toyota drivers even more. Christian

@@Vera_and_Christian Oh, no problems, please. As a matter of fact, I am watching other videos of yours right now.

👍💪🙋‍♀️Vera

I always thought you could use an oil that " meets specifications or higher "

I thought this too but it is not the case. "Higer" ACEA is in some cases even worse that older ratings. I did not know any of this until I did the research for this video. Christian

I have moved to Millers Longlife 5w40 for my Jaguar XJ 2.7 TDVI because I think 5w30 is too thin. I might look at the Fuchs one. Thanks for posting.

I hope we reach 400k too. Thanks. Christian

Fuchs Titan CFE appears to be a semi synthetic oil. I would prefer to stick with fully synthetics.

@@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548 because of molybden there,which is good for this engine. But as Christian said,everyone has to decide for themselves. About 7 cars running on this oil around me and many years already. Previously there even existed a 5w40 variant of this cfe mc oil

Yeah me too, but I am standing on the sideline and film. But, he had a Challenger for that and did not do it. 😅👍🙋‍♀️

😅👍🙋‍♀️Vera