Give us a call and lets chat (877) 788-7253

Give us a call and lets chat (877) 788-7253

Build your own... I opted to not add scarifiers on mine and it works great without them...

instablaster...

Take a look at the 00:48 sec mark on this video. The mounds left behind are what I am writing about.

The mounds seen at that point in the video are due to wet silty soil with grass roots mix in. Generally speaking, the dryer the material, the smoother the finish will be. If you are removing vegetation while grading, the roots will be problematic in creating a smooth finish.

That's a great question. Our customer service team is available to work with you one-on-one over the phone or FaceTime. Call 877.788.7253 to get started. Until then, the final finish on a gravel driveway should be a smooth and compacted surface. The landplane plays its part in the process, but as you have pointed out, a landplane does not have a final "finishing" rake or pulverizing action, nor does it have a way to compact the gravel. First, when using the ripper teeth, only loosen the gravel a little at a time. If the ground comes up in large chunks, the landplane does not have a pulverizing component to break that up, creating clumps in the finish. Also, the landplane will take multiple, even many passes, to gradually loosen the gravel to a depth that the dual blades are consistently filled with the material while grading. You want to achieve consistent blade fill; if the fill is not consistent, then the finish will be uneven. You will need to slightly raise the 3-point from time to time to allow some material to gradually escape below the blades if too much material accumulates and on each end of the driveway. An additional method to add a final finish is to use a different implement for the finish, such as a pulverizer or chain harrow or landscape rake pulled in reverse. Reverse dragging with your tractors loader bucket is also effective. Also, remember that if the material is wet or has a high clay or silt composition, clumps will be tough to avoid without using additional equipment. Vegetation will also create clumps. Finally, after grading, you should compact the gravel the best you can. The process of compacting will do a good job of eliminating most dirt clods or chunks. We have found that driving over the surface with a tractor, UTV, or truck does a great job of compacting the surface. The method would be to ensure the tires run over the entire driveway progressively, this may require one to safely drive slight off the driveway, if possible, to enable the tires to compact the whole surface. Here too reverse dragging with your tractors loader bucket can be effective for compacting. ABI also invented the TR3 Rake, the TR3 Rake includes a rear finishing and pulverizing rake which enables even finishing, even in wet, high clay/silt, and chunky material: www.abiattachments.com/product/tr3-tractor-rake-driveway-property-road-grader/ I hope this helps. Give us a call to receive custom advice for your situation.

Thank you for taking to time to provide a very informative response. The rippled effect i get occurs while grading pure gravel with some moisture. Finishing with the rake flipped backwards will probably complete the process nicely. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks again.

use a double opposing Z (or V) bar drag, the z bars action is what distributes and smooths this out, you also need to compact your surface to make it stay in place. alot of planer makers seem to have forgotten why the it's necessary to have one blade pull material one direction and the second blade pull material the other direction or they just designed their blade to crown only with the double v it works like an X with out being joined in the middle giving the excess material a chance to spill over and be redistributed for smaller grade class. for larger grade such as class3 and above designed to handle great weight traffic, go with the double opposing z grader where the leading blade travels at an angle one direction and the trailing blade starts about 6" to 1' behind the furthest back point of the leading blade and returns back at the opposite angle from the leading blade. the best ones were home made with adjustable angle blades so you could adjust them from 45 degrees to 5 degrees to control the amount of material you wanted moved and spill over for what speed you wanted to go whether 1st gear to 4th gear. with a box blade without or with a flip up rear blade, you can use the leading edge going in reverse and smooth and compact at the same time, it's pretty much a 1 shot deal so you have to get it right the first time or you might end up reworking areas to fix what you messed up. i have a heavy duty lawn roller now and it works very well for compacting the gravel drive when i am done.

Hi Daryl, I'm not sure if you're talking about our land place or landscape grader? Go ahead and give us a call and we can discuss your options: (877) 788-7253

Our land plane will work very well on a private dirt road when used in accordance with our manual. With dirt, instead of gravel, we recommend grading in lower moisture conditions to allow material to flow over the blades. We do not recommend working on public roadways.

I used one of these (different brand but same idea) on 11 miles of gravel walking paths open to the public at a public agency I used to work at. It was AMAZING!!! We had a budget to bring in 3-4 inches of new crushed rock but were able to recondition the entire trail system with a $1200 grading scraper, a tractor we already owned and a week of one person's labor. Huge savings and the trails looked like new.

No 7/8 of a mile is the limit

Hi Kirk, we make 5' 6' & 7' models. Get all the details here: www.abiattachments.com/product/tractor-land-plane-implement-driveway-road-grader/ or call toll free: 877-788-7253 Thanks for your interest!

We do not believe so. The angled blades are more aggressive and assist the planning action, they also help to convey loosened material off the driveway edge and back into the center.

The ones made by other companies that have a straight back blade and a double adjustable front blade work much better in my experience

I have used both and didn't notice much of a difference.

More the angle, the easier it is, to slice the ground, therefore less wear and tear

Give us a call (877) 788-7253

I know who makes a better one

@@big4g63t Who is that?

@@stevevisker8818 check out American grader. Com....I know the inventor and have seen the product in person.... As far as driveways it's the way to go

Give us a call here: 877-788-7253

Give us a call and lets chat (877) 788-7253

@@ABIAttachments You could simply state it as i do not call unless the oeice is listed.

Give us a call and lets talk pricing!

@@ABIAttachments Wish i could but disability doesnt keep up with house repairs, let alone 20 acres of once was pastures that now look like deer bedding heaven. i think ill need a dozer to clear off my homeplace crazy how fast the woods moved back in after my late father had to fight cancer over fighting the neverending chores on a old farmstead

$1500 for a 6ft model from Armstrong Ag at Bowie County Equipment in De Kalb,TX. 903-667-2584

Give us a call and let's discuss. CALL: 877-788-7253

Why call just put the price up, what's to hide.

Jason Sechrist they don't want competition out biding them

@@jasonsechrist1 YOU BET They must be over priced or they would publish the price. They gave me the same "give us a call" crap

@@jasonsechrist1 I hate this companies that do not give prices out. They must not want to sell, or else, it is too expensive. Every ad should have a price!!!