Enjoy and be safe.

Glad it was helpful!

Yep seals tighten up and fluid thickens the colder it gets. You drive it for a bit and it will of course it will leak until it cools again. Pulling my convertible apart now. I should have some new videos on transmissions after it is completed.

Glad it helped!

You will be like many in old Jags. If it's not leaking it's out. Just keep an eye on the fluid levels and enjoy.

How do I know which solenoid is which?

Glad it helped.

Thanks, you too!

Glad it was helpful.

Best of luck to you.

Glad I could help. Good luck.

The sport mode only prolongs the shifting times. It allows you to rev to higher RPMs before shifting. This makes the next gear start a bit higher in the revs giving a more aggressive driving experience. I don't see sport mode making any difference in fluid leaks but possibly the cold did thicken the oils. Easy way to check is get the car to normal operating temp while parked then shut it off and let it set to see if the leak comes back. Here's hoping it stays away.

Not specifically a brand, just a full kit. One I have used is like the one listed below. It has all the bolt seals as well as the spark plug port seals. Also most kits I have found do not have the VVT seals so you will have to get them separately if your car has VVT. The kit below has them. Be sure to check the fit for your specific car. Jag did change a few things on the valve cover depending on the year and setup. Good luck. www.enginepartsonly.com/1999-jaguar-xk8-4-0l-valve-cover-gasket-set-vc4162g-e23/

No clean and dry only. be sure to check book for torque specs.

The supercharged version should have the Mercedes-Benz W5A580 5G-Tronic. The non-supercharged should have the ZF 5HP24. This is from 1997 to 2002. The Merc will be somewhat different from the video. I can not tell you how much being I have never worked on one. It will likely use a different volume and type of fluid. As always please fallow the owners and shop manuals. Many differences can be had from one year to the next. Hope this helps.

I have never owned or worked on a X150 generation. I am not sure how much of the transmission design carried over. I would check with Jag forums if you haven't already. They cover almost every model. www.jaguarforums.com/

There are many different brands and most are good. I personally use the Permatex brand. For a Transmission if you must use RTV I suggest don't rush it. Start early and try to get it all together so it can set up while you eat lunch and do a few other things for the recommended setup time. Then drive sparingly if you must. Be sure to fallow the directions of the product you buy as best as possible. I have driven sparingly (handful of miles) after only 4 hours but don't like to if I don't have to. Best of luck.

This is the ZF with a green tag on the side of the transmission. I have not seen anything that would suggest the use of any other fluid types would be safe. See the 2 minute mark I speak of this.

Looked thought my records and I believe I used this kit. FK354 Pro-King Products

This could change slightly depending on each car due to different levels of fluid allowed out. It wound up being around 5 and 1/3 quarts used when my car was completed. Best to fallow the instructions on transmission temp and small stream out of filler hole. That will get you to the proper fill level.

I am in Texas. I do not work on cars professionally anymore. I only work on family and friends cars now days. Thanks for the comment.

A shop manual will give you this information. You can try this. cardiagn.com/jaguar/jaguar-xk8/

Thanks for this video. So my main problem was I was unable to get enough ATF fluid into the car. I was not using a lift but used a level on the transmission pan. But I went with your specs of how much atf the car should take and now it rides normally again.

Glad to help. Nice to know one more still on the road. @@tainchains

That is all relative to the exact fault or faults. The best thing is to get the codes read out and check the forums etcetera to see what others have found for the common fix. It may be worth a try to change the fluid if it has been some time. The main issue there is, if there is a bad part you may be in a situation of having to catch the fresh changed oil in a clean container so to be used again. Best of luck to you.

I have never noticed any jerks (hard shift???) in my car, even under hard acceleration.

@@weekendwarriorgarage4402 its not realy a jerk u just feel the switch from 1 to 2 is that normal?

@@weekendwarriorgarage4402 i use jgate all the time because to me it should be easier on the trany that ur not using the "pressure build up" the auto uses at all to switch gears ur actually putting it in the gear manually and as long as u remove ur foot from gas untile it goes fully into the next gear i imagine jgate will actual save ur trany but u have no control over 1to 2 and i feel it when it switches idk if thats normal?

@@FederalTracks I suggest this form thread. It looks like these folks use the J gate more than I. It is not just for the XK8 but should cover much of the items you stated. Hope it helps. www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-x400-14/driiving-j-gate-16188/

@@weekendwarriorgarage4402 lol i live in jgate i love it

I was able to get a rubber seal for this job but I know many things are getting harder to get your hands on now. This is the kit I used on my 1999 XK8 with the ZF transmission. ( www.autohausaz.com/pn/FK354 ) This may fit your car depending on year and transmission in it. Hope this helps.

I have replace them in BMWs with ZF boxes and it is usually not to bad. Just find a manual and fallow it closely. I always use a factory manual. Some are hard to get but these XKs are not hard at at all. Make sure you run the car at idle go thru the gears slowly to prime them all. Do this before you drive off to test and go easy on the test drive. You don't want to risk slamming gears.

And do check your fluid level after priming and test drive. Low fluid can cause delayed and or hard shifting.

Thank you. I have an xj8. but same thing. I don't have a lift so I depend on jackstands to get it level. Any tips for getting it level on jackstands?

Magnetic or tape on a level to the pan.@@tainchains

Not sure the full price but it would be high. Most likely around 500-1000 to get the tranny out. It would only go up from there.

I will be doing a pull and external reseal of all parts I can get my hands on. I will not be breaking the tranny down in this up coming video.

I had to use about 5L for mine. Be sure and fallow your models manual and make sure it is correctly filled. The process and volume can change for many reasons.

1999 Coupe (red) and same on the Convertible (black).

Yes it was resolved by replacing the seal. Unfortunately I did not make a video of that. It required me to drop the transmission to get to the seal. So I had to remove the exhaust and drive shaft to do this. It was a big job thankfully I could spread it over a few weekends. My Account Icon is a picture of the seal and back of the crank shaft.

No XK8 1999 with AJ 26 engine and ZF Transmission.

@@weekendwarriorgarage4402 OK thank you. The 1999 xj8 with V8 4.0 engine and gearbox is the same as yours?

@@tinovaj4857 I believe so but not 100% on the Transmission.

The harness connector is a bit of an issue. The O-rings are know to leak and can be done without pulling the transmission but is much harder and will require the trans mount be loose to swing it over. That being said be prepared for other items that could give due to the flexing such as the engine mounts. Good luck to you.

This was not a flush just a change. The old fluid was not burnt other wise I would have had to flush it with a lot more fluid and special flushing tools. There are other ways to flush as well but a lot more work. I am not an advocate of flushing old transmissions unless no other choice. I will likely run this fluid for a year and change it again. This will get most the old oil out. The third change one more year later should do the trick and allow for a change every 5 years from then on to keep it fresh.

Not sure what you are asking.

I do believe that is true. Some years had VVT others did not. Auto makers do tend to do minor and sometimes major changes from one year to the next. The VIN on the car will help to narrow down any differences. Many venders can use this to help you get the right part.

It is very similar. It will fit a normal opening oil can though. I found it quite good for the job. No mess and not to expensive. Their are much better and faster options but they are much much more expensive. This tool is still used today so it has lasted quite well.