This model most definitely is sold as carbon steel, but some others are described as alloy. Yes, you are correct that "alloy" can describe ferrous and non ferrous metals. Rob

Rohm are a quality brand that has stood the test of time. Many other cordless drill chucks are rubbish.

Wow, that is some serious shit. I've used my 1" reduced shank drill bit in the Jacobs keyed chuck, but not the Rohm, so I can't comment on that aspect. Nothing bad has happened so far ;)

That's a good buy Chris. I paid big bucks for mine new. Considering it's done 40 years service on the pillar drill and is still like new shows how much better the quality made in Sheffield England Jacobs are, than the cheap pressed bodied ones that came later.

For what it's worth there are pros and cons. I hate keyed chucks because I suffer from disappearing chuck keys - like everyone, I'm sure. Too absent-minded even to put the key on the magnet I installed to keep it. Keyless chuck seemed an obvious solution - love them in my battery drills. Two problems though. They - and I do mean similar to this BangGood chuck, to be fair - don't hold smaller items as well so you can find taps and reamers spinning when they shouldn't. Biggest problem I have though is the length. That BangGood keyless 1-13 chuck is about as long as the Jacobs 20mm. In my mill with my daft choice of vise (was convinced I'd need tilt and swivel - haven't used either yet) I run out of height to get a drill bit in the keyless. Other thing worth noting, if you're using it in a tailstock, is that the jaws of the keyless chuck rotate with barrel as you turn it to close the jaws. It's not disastrous but if you're trying to get something like a drill bit aligned so you can drizzle cutting oil down the flutes to start, it's an annoyance.

Good to share experiences with this stuff. That's what it''s all about.

Been there, done that. Camera catches things better than the old eyeballs :) It's also very good at spotting runout. But it does tend to get in the way a bit.

It was clearly seen in the video by those paying attention to it. One of my Chinese chucks, locks exactly the same as yours if the load is high. That's supposed to happen in a keyless design. I use a pin spanner to loosen it up, Rohm's quality of materials and design, avoid that problem. I have a 0 to 1/2" Rohm with a straight 1" shank. For your own satisfaction and benefit, you should check the chuck's arbor and regrind it, if needed. Within certain limits and depending on the application, drilling will never be dead accurate or have to be. Otherwise you drill undersize and finish by boring. In extreme precise location such as die making, they use Jig Boring Machines. Jolly good show as usual Rob.

Glad you enjoyed it Jorge. Doing product reviews tends to wear you down over time, because it's a lot of work, and because you know you can't cover all bases in the allocated time. You expect to get flamed for it. But as they say, if you can't stand the heat stay out of the kitchen ;) Cheers rob

Yes, it copped a bit of biffo in this video ;)

I was wondering what the run out would be after you used it and had a real good load on it. I think it would be less as the taper would be seated better in the chuck and also the Morse taper. Maybe some more spots you didn't notice that were smaller but still needed sanding. I think the heavy load would fix some of that.

Glad it was helpful!

Yes, that would be totally bad news. No spindle lock - not good. At least the Rohm has provision for two wrenches, but this is one reason why I don't really like key less chucks. I will use the Chinese unit on the lathe just for centre drills as it works fine with light loadings like that. Cheers Rob

Yes, both chucks do this if you watch. Neither slipped under quite considerable load.

I always buy Metabo keyed chucks as replacements. Very good quality and value for money and still made in Germany. I can only say that most plastic bodied keyless chucks I've seen are pretty crappy. I wouldn't buy one. The Banggood keyless chuck is working well and seems to have loosened up a lot, it isn't hard to undo anymore. Cheers Rob

Why ?

@@Xynudu Metal chips

I don't see how they would be a problem in blind holes. It's extremely unlikely chips would get anywhere near those holes.

@@Xynudu They always seem to find a way. Especially those magnetised boogers! :D

You get what you pay for.

yes

Hi Rol, I knew the arbor issue would be mentioned, but there's only so much you can fit in a video. It would require one arbor being used for all drill chucks, and that's not something I have time to do. The results were in line with what I expected on this. The actual run out for the Rohm was quite small, and certainly way better than a lot of drill presses you buy these days. Used in a tailstock the shown run out is not going to have much of bearing on the performance of any of the chucks reviewed. Cheers Rob

I understand. Since your drill spindle taper is so precise it may be worthwhile to regrind the corresponding morse tapers as they are stuck on each chuck with your Hilda grinder. It may take two or three videos. But it would make for interesting content. If you clamp the drill chuck jaws on a precise cylindrical pin that is held in a collet chuck of the lathe you could grind a new center in the arbor, use the rotating center to stabilize the work and then regrind the morse taper of the arbor.

No doubt the Drill Press spindle and chuck arbor taper, have a direct influence on the chuck concentricity. Only after those two factors are eliminated or corrected, you can properly determine a chuck's run out. That'st called tooling stack-up ( one deviation on top of another).

Totally agree Jorge, but in a real world situation this is what you get out of the box(es) ; I could do a follow up on the radial run out aspect, but is it worth it when a single arbor is not being shared ? Plus I'm getting a bit done on reviews and am looking for a break. Cheers Rob

I think the lock up is a design issue as everything felt good and smooth. It's obviously load related/induced as drilling with smaller sizes was not as severe. Works great with centre drills in the tailstock, which is what I got it for. Cheers Rob

One of the issues I remember learning about with my mentor Dave was related to two steel plates bolted together with a through bolt. This was a bracket on a car, so subjected to some vibration, and the joint always came loose. In the end, he told me the solution that worked was to put some sand in some grease and spread between the two plates. This grit Loder interface never came apart unintentionally after that. Having had the joy of pulling apart lathe chucks and so forth from our mates in China, it would not surprise me in the slightest if there was some grit between the jaws and the clamping collar, causing a similar “full lock”. From memory these chucks are meant to go together clean and dry inside the jaw side of the chuck Just my 0.02 :-)

You could well be right. I'm not about to pull it apart. Last time I did that I wrecked it. LOL. Not my scene. Cheers Rob

@@Xynudu that sounds like what happens to me every time I investigate something...Cheers for the US, Paul

Fair comment Michael. This was in my mind when I did the review, but how long do you make the video. Axial run out is always going to be an issue. I took one test avenue and went with that. Cheers Rob

Maybe I will do a follow up. What do you recon ? Rob

Sure, why not? It would be a lot more interesting than the majority of "reviews" of banggood stuff out there. You probably want to do checking of the shank and the chuck itself, if they're anything like the crap I've had cheap* from china they're both junk. Another thing to check would be runout / axiality at both extremes of jaw extension (say 1.5mm and 12mm stock). Use Rollies Dad's Method if you don't have precision stock in small and large sizes, you've got more than enough measuring equipment. *I've had very good chinese stuff at "normal" prices, but at that point it's ot worth the effort, just buy a quality name brand tool. Mid price stuff is a lottery, can be great, can be crap, Shahe indicators for example - if you get a real one, fine, but the market is flooded with low quality fakes. Chinese fakes of chinese products.

Hi Bob, No, I've never taken any keyless chuck apart. Mine is silky smooth. You can't see what's going on inside though. The only dud drill chuck I had was a Makita keyed one which had a piece busted out of the scroll thread when they pressed it together. I wasn't very impressed by that. It always felt notchy from new and of course it locked up about two months out of warranty and Makita basically said piss off. Good luck with your replacement one. Cheers Rob

Hi John, It's likely that any or all of the arbors have an error factor - as nothing is perfect. But unless I compare all arbors, there's no point in just looking at the Banggood one. So I reviewed the items as you would receieve them. To strip down all chuck/arbors and measure run out is way beyond a half hour video and not something I wish to do. You buy a chuck and arbor combination and that's what you will use. It's as simple as that. Cheers Rob