I believe the kit includes the housing gasket. I probably used it on the previous impeller change.

Right on man!

Very welcome!

Your welcome.

Thanks Donnie. Hope it went well.

Your Welcome Alan! Thanks for the feedback! You do save a lot of $ but you have peace of mind that you did it yourself and with that experience, more confidence is gained on the water IMO. Good luck with it and please throw a comment next year after you change yours!

Thanks! I hope your job went easy! I appreciate the feedback and the Sub!

Thanks Mark! Appreciated.

Thank you Keith much appreciated! A Like on the video would be great. Apparently 20% of viewers think it sucks. Darn logistics.

Thanks for the comment Byron. I'm surprised the manual (which I don't have) calls for LT 572. I had to look it up but LT 572 is for setting and sealing course pipe and bolt threads. Even if I had known this I still would not have used it. The impeller is due in another 30 or so hrs, maybe I'll do a video on how well the grease held up. Thanks again.

@@astrodiver1 I contacted Yamaha and they recommend it because it is thread sealant and they said it also prevents loosening due to vibration (watertight and secure seal). LT 572 is a thread sealant and their torque specs. call for it via a wet torque. My motor is 30 lbs.-ft. for the M10 bolts and 13 lbs.-ft. for the water pump bolts, Then 22lbs.-ft for that long hidden M8 bolt and no LT 572 for the anode bolt. I use a digital torque wrench and torque to spec. That is why I use it. Yamaha uses dissimilar metals and that LT 572 prevents galvanic corrosion and allows the bolts to be removed easily for the next service. I can send you my motor's service manual if you like (just send me an Email). Some of the older models' service manuals are on the NET and every manual calls for LT 572. Dealers do not use it because it is expensive. Grease works and if used, the torque specs. need to be reduced by 20%. A lot of saltwater users do not use LT572 because they do not want to clean it off the threads (reacts with salt to restrict corrosion and comes out as gunk over the bolt threads). The also cite a Yamaha WR2 grease for the splines and note not to lube the top to avoid a potential hydro lock.

Went to a Yamaha dealer/ Marina they didn't have 572. I told the guy you mean to tell me none of your mechanics use it? It specifies it when doing Yamaha impellers. He just said don't do me like that. This marina is on salt water.

@@scottroach3233 They don't use it because it costs them money. They grease the bolts and put them in. Some dealers use blue Locktite. Call Yamaha customer service and they will tell you the OEM requirement is Locktite 572. You need to buy from McMaster Karr or Fastenal. It is expensive ($30). But one tube will last you a long time. Bolts will never seize and will not break when you remove after torqueing to spec. No galvanic corrosion with the proper sealant. I bought my motor's service manual and follow it. The dealerb you talked to just uses a cheaper substitute.

If you get a chance let us know how it went!

You are very welcome C. Thank you for the feedback.

I would say it's most likely the grommet/ o-ring for the output of the pump housing @11:05 or the metal cup is very worn or possibly the base gasket is torn or missing.

Thanks Richard.

@@astrodiver1 had to hit the starter to turn the head to fit in the drive shaft.

Your welcome. The upper hose attachment is for flushing the engine. I use the muffs because that's where the water pump pulls from.

@@astrodiver1 ya after I typed it I clued in. I have all bolts removed and I can’t get the lower to separate. Mines a 35 hp tiller so I also have the shift linkage disconnected. Won’t budge. Using a deadblow mallet and it won’t move.

Thanks Dan. I just use regular grease. The engine spends 80% of its time in fresh water, FWIW.

@@astrodiver1 Mine is in fresh water 100%, so I should be good with regular grease. Thanks again!

I don't know what to say about the water leak and the F75 is a new engine. I never had one apart but if the tell-tale is weak and their is nothing blocking the water intake, then it has to come apart for at least an impeller change.

Scott, the trailer is 10 years old now and tows well and is very maneuverable at the ramp. Without looking it up the boat weighs ~ 2200Lbs. wet and my 1500 doesn't notice it until about 60 mph. My average tow is around 100 miles round-trip but I have towed as many as 400. The wide tires wear unevenly and scallop and I'm on my 3rd set of tires. ( the last time I bought the tires/rims/hub+bearings all combined for ~$200 and replaced all the spindle components at once. I am getting some rust on the springs from salt water but that's to be expected. I always toss an older tire in the bed as a spare but so far have not had to use it.

@@astrodiver1 I've only pulled it across state 1 time but do get the same tire wear. It's not fun pulling it far with a 3rd gen Tacoma

100, 220, and 395 hrs. The boat is mostly in fresh water.

~ 10kg/25lbs.