where would you say the power is gained - is it more aadding to the top end or does it gain some low end torque?

@@hisride I couldn't say for sure I changed my gearing with 14/49 and that made a huge difference in low end tourqe. I did add a little fuel in low to mid and took out a little top seems to work where I live but definitely depends on elevation where you live and ride

I've also done that and I agree! It's hard to document the exact difference though because the speedo is inaccurate now and I haven't corrected it yet.

@@Jesse-ei6hq Yea I am interested in the difference between stock and 13/49 (that is what I have currently) I bought the bike with the 49 rear, never tried stock gearing but apparently it is not that great especially 6th gear.

@@VOILAA how much was the gearing and were you able to install yourself?

ExilityX yep by 2 percent

Only if applied correctly

yes, but only if installed at the correct angle using a flux capacitor module to eliminate the centrifugal hypoid inbalance caused by the static electric discharge transfer from your body through the sticker and into the CDI unit.

@@mattkeno2405 very accurate, thank you sir

I watched the Hermit DaVlog review of the FMF headers he seems to think they make little or no difference. Not sure it would be worth the cost anyway.

@@adventureeng9892 Did you have to make any adjustments to the fuel programmer or was it just plug and play? Also, have you tried the no toil filter? Thanks

@@JohnnyBoy919 The programmer was plug and play. There are adjustment options but by default it is tuned for an aftermarket exhaust and airfilter. No I haven't tried the no toil filter but I imagine results would be similar.

Because they are just looking at paper numbers for increase see 2/3 horse power and say don’t bother. Completely forgetting that it not only adds that hp but shifts the use ability range to be lower. Same with programmer. Won’t add 10 hp but will add a couple hp and make the throttle waaay more responsive. Fuel and exhaust netting a 4hp increase on a 29 hp bike isn’t anything to sneeze at

@@agibitable The TW? Seriously? WR250R or CRF250L.

A WR would be fine but they are quite tall. You might have to look at lowering options if you don't have long legs just for increased confidence in the beginning. The CRF250L is another good option that's a bit shorter, cheaper as well.

Thanks guys. I'm about 6ft so i think i should be alright height wise.

I’m 182cm! My WR250x is a perfect bike for me. Yeah you should get it since it’s a good bike for all beginners!

If I was a starter start on a Ktm 85 of Kk 85 safer and easy to handle

Do you have updated settings?? I run aftermarket exhaust and k&n air filter and air box mod ...

@@ricebruh596 Sup Ricebruh!? I found a Q4 on Amazon for a raptor 700. This was the only one I could find for sale and I looked all over! So I had to get some cutting and welding done, but it's on and gave an incredible increase over stock! It rips, and I'm stoked hard now! Off idle is punchy, sometimes too much for the amount of throttle twist. So, the settings now: Green 5.5 Yellow 4 Red 3.5 Green/Blue 3.5 Yellow/blue 4 Red/blue 3 Idle(green Blue), and Accel pump(red blue) were the two areas that are the farthest off from the recommendations. Any higher on accel and it's boggy off the hit. And idles like shit unless close to factory setting of 3 to 3.5 Soon I will put in a new plug, go ride for a couple hours, then pull it out to inspect. After that, I'll know a bit more. Fyi, my air filter is a bit dirty currently. I'm thinking I'll leave dirty until after the plug read. It'll give me a more realistic world conditions. My filter is more likely dirty than clean :) Anyways, Hollar back at me in a couple weeks for another update. Oh, and if ya want a FMF Q4 get on Amazon and do some welding or die waiting. Ditching the factory pipe was the biggest uncork. Ride on homies!!

@@chriscote3701 that's my problem right now when i punch the throttle Bikes bogs out .. Only mods I did is slip on and air box mod I might try your settings see if that helps

@@ricebruh596 write down what you're running now. Then try mine. You could also keep yours and just adjust your accel pump to a lower setting. I think this will sort ya out, if not then your likely too rich one one of the other settings is my guess. Hollar back what ya figure out bro. Brap brap ;)

@@chriscote3701 it runs perfect now thank you I did put accelerator pump back to 3 .

Straight out of the box, plug and play.

John M figured since it’s been 5 months I’d tell you from a view point of someone that doesn’t own one YET and has watched countless videos. Everyone loves that the bike is fuel injected and I’ve never heard people complain about the factory fuel injector. Worst complaints are valves needing to be adjusted out of factory and the chain eats the swing arm. Just get a smaller sprocket and do a quick valve check

@@brianskate024 smaller rear sprocket? Seems like a larger counter would solve that. was that fixed on later models?

​@@brianskate024stock fuel injection tubing is fine for a stock motor, if you "uncork" the bike by blocking off AIS, put on a new exhaust, remove the airbox flapper etc then it will run too lean and that's why you need to add fuel.

Since its fuel injection , to be honest i wouldnt be surprised to see the stock beeing even a little faster , because without an fp the bike isnt giving as much fuel and air as the exhaust wants..

Just a slip on

I've got the flap taped down to prevent it closing.