I have no trains. I have no space nor the money at this time. But I find something cathartic and relaxing and ultimately satisfying watching a craftsman do his thing. Thank you!!!

I love the look of buried track, just imagine a old industrial line with trains running through the road

i dream of the day i have the space to do all this..I save all your vids so i can reference back to them at a later date...Thanks for sharing your knowledge to the rest of us

You could probably use a block plane to gouge out the foam on the siding where the track is to be embedded. Might create less foam mess.

Outstanding video thank you!

Great work, looks very good

Nice work Larry, Look forward to the next video update. Nick Australia

Nice work. Congratulations :)

Nice Job Larry!

aha! So that is a way to create rail in the street. I will try that with the layout I am building. Thanks Larry.

How appropriate that for measuring and leveling trackage in a yard, one uses ... a YARDSTICK! (I'll leave now.)

Boldly you go! LIVE! 👍

HI Larry, as Tony Mc Kenna said we no longueur receive notification in our mail box . Now you have to connect to you tube and look in to you're notification, Google Say's that is because most people didn't open them so they no longueur send them. shame it was quite good. Never the less thanks for your videos, stay safe there is quite an increase of COVID in the States right now. Regards from La Réunion

Sure forms are l8bucks at homedepot. Also the craftsman ones are most likely re-badged Stanley. Hey, awesome video cant wait to bring my n and ho layouts back to life 😀

Klasse 👍

I have Bubble levels from 6 inch up to 4 ft long . Invest their multi purpose . Also get yourself some target / bull's-eye bubble levels . That way if the framework has adjustable feet you can see the results faster . Mark the top from corner to corner then place the level corner to line in all four directions then adjust the feet to get the bubble dead center . Make sure that the edges of the module is the same Heights to whatever adjacent modules there is to prevent any derailments .

Hi from the UK! When laying rail( any gauge), I've found a small mirror makes checking alignment easier on straights or curves. The kind ladies have for makeup in their purse (or handbag). Place the mirror at a distance and look down the track. Less of a crick in your neck and easier access! It's surprising how many doglegs this might reveal, especially at rail joints. Regards, Alan.

Use a spirit Level job done

As stated by someone earlier a mirror is a great way to look for kinks and using a straight Tracksetta is a great help as well. Enjoying this series especially as you are using UK models. Also if you don't want to put droppers onevery section and not solder the fish plates either then to ensure electrical continuity as on the real railway solder a piece of wire with curls at each end so that when the rail expands and contracts the piece of wire flexes with it. Another thing with the wiring of points, when connecting the stock rail with the point blade why not do it with a dropper wire length?

I have an HO layout in my basement. I'm still using old type regular DC type trains. All these DCC types are out of my budget. I do electronic work and made a TAT-5 (true action) throttle. It has a pulse generator for very slow realistic starts. It also has a load control to simulate a loaded train and slow acceleration.

The flex track that I bought was from Yugoslavia. I had 5 long pieces of it. In each case, the metal rails separated from the plastic part of the track before I was able to lay any of it. I could not get it to go back together, because the plastic tabs holding the metal rails in place had cracked and failed. It was a huge loss and waste of money for me, especially in light of the fact that I have very little of it to start with.

Another great video Larry 👍👍👍 Have you seen the new Noise Killer Roadbed From Rapido? It comes as a main line version (3.5mm deep) and a branch line version at 2 mm deep.

Very helpful video! Thanks! What do you use to transition from the height of the cork roadbed under the switch down to the level of the foam? Thanks again!

Great idea on the long yard stick looking for daylight. What do u think of using some balsa wood or basswood shims to push the cork up where it dips before glueing it to the foam board?

How about adding some sort of dirt colored tint to the plaster, smooth-it or hydrocal? If you don't, when it chips (not IF it chips, because it will), you'll end up with white spots all over the place.

Edward buttering toast.

Hi Larry that looks really good what will be in that area when it is finished?

Does adding the concrete mess with electrical part of it? Does it take additional wiring? Or can i do it on bachmann ez track and a power pack?

If you have a Leveling bubble use it to see how level the track is.

Do you have any thoughts about using homasote as a base compared to foam board?

Has anyone tried making this type of roadbed in z scale?

I have done this subscribed but notifications don't work

I just dont understand why glueing the track down seems to be the new norm. any long time model railroader changes the track plan at any given moment or new scene. pulling up old nails keep the track reusable.

Unnecessarily verbose-stating the obvious a lot of the time