Thank you humbly Anthoni

I was about to say, "I'm glad to hear it".. I mean, I'm not glad that you might have gotten something ruined, I'm glad to hear it's not just me (as well)

Just varnish before applying your oils; it'll work just fine. No need to dispose of your rattle can primers.

@@worm1618 Indeed, but I wanted this example to have as few steps as possible.

I have had the same problem with vallejo white primer in the airbrush.

I recommend for the varnish before the oils a gloss varnish (i use ak gloss varnish) and before putting one the acrilys a matt varnish (here I also use ak ultra matt)

🙌

I appreciate it Luddite

So glad to hear it. Thanks T

Welcome to the channel!

Counting on it!

Thanks Charles and please do! It would be cool to see the tank.

Thanks John!

Thanks!

Thanks Michael!

It was! :)

Thank you K, much appreciated.

Thanks Andrew!

Thank you Derek! I appreciate it

Thank you J! I appreciate it 👋

Hah! Love it

I appreciate it N 👍

Great to hear Niko, thanks 🙏

Welcome Giz 👋

Well thank you good sir 🖖

@@52Miniatures Peace and long life 🖖

Thanks man, and good to hear from you. I hope all is well.

@@52Miniatures I'm great, thanks for asking! Just busy, as we all are, aren't we? Anyway, have a very pleasant day! :)

💜 Thanks man!

Sorry to hear about the bad day but I’m glad to hear the video helped 👍

Thanks Mark!

Great K, thank you 🙏

Great to hear M!

Thanks Ian!

Thanks The End!

Glad to hear it, welcome to the channel.

Thank you B!

Pow pow!

Great to hear Larry!

Thanks TFTF!

✌️

Thank you Steffon!

Thanks! Pretty swift workflow. Black contrast paint and then over bush lightly with silvery metallic paint

Thanks Ovan, much appreciated.

👍

Thanks Matt!

@@52Miniatures no problem my friend. they look awesome

I'm glad it was of help T!

The snow is back here again, again.

I mean, there are different types of paint - not only “just paint”? White spirit or turpentine does not dissolve cured acrylic paint. So the Vallejo spray must be a solvent based paint, not an acrylic paint. This has nothing to do with if it’s durable or if it’s a primer or not. There are solvent based primers for example; they would also dissolve in white spirit… I’m curious what you mean about sansodour being a harsh chemical? What do you use for oil paint that is not as “harsh”?

@@52Miniatures Perhaps I should explain a bit more. I use vallejo spray a lot as a primer, but it needs a varnish. For example I'm working on a bust right now that was primed with Vallejo Model spray. I used the vallejo product because I knew it wouldn't clog the fine texture of the clothing. I didn't varnish and while I was doing the first washes of color with my airbrush I tried to lift a mistake with water, but even gentle rubbing removed some of the paint. I touched it up with more spray and then I brush varnished the model using a matte acrylic varnish from Coat D'Arms and it became durable. Vallejo's spray was designed for smooth application for additional layers of color after the priming is already done, not as a durable topcoat and not as a primer. It's just paint. Actual primers have hardeners and strong binders like glue and they are made from absorbent toothy fillers like calcium chalk that take additional layers of paint well and most importantly real primer has chemicals in it which actually etch the surface of the model for better adhesion. My father taught me that for a model to properly take the first layer of paint it should be sanded with a smooth sandpaper and he would make me do it though its a tedious a process to sand plastic. But we can avoid this in miniature painting with specially formulated primers that can etch the surface or that have especially strong binders and a toothy texture. The special formulation is why a priming layer is so hard to remove when stripping the paint off an old mini. Sansodor is a refined petrol chemical. It's the same thing as mineral spirits, but of a better quality. They refine the chemical to remove some of the bad odor and to slow the evaporation rate which also helps with the odor; hence the name sansodor, but it's origins are the same as hardware store turpentine. The best product on the market like Sansodor is called Gamsol and is made by Gamblin (the name means Gamblin Solvent), but even it has some odor, however those two products are comparable. Though odorless mineral spirits are modified to slow the evaporation rate they still evaporate rather quickly. Being extracted from oil they are oil solvents. They are very thin too. Because they are so thin they penetrate previous layers of paint rather easily and so if used as you did to lift early layers the chemical will sink into the paint getting trapped between the paint and the model. They will lift the paint as they evaporate. This is something that old sources warned us about and it's why previous generations of model makers thought oil paint and acrylics were entirely incompatible, but oil painters know differently. Using a more durable primer or varnishing the previous layer helps to prevent this because the evaporation doesn't affect a more durable layer as much and the better sealed surface helps to prevent penetration in the first place. But even if you don't try to lift any paint from a previous layer a layer of Vallejo spray isn't very durable and so it should be varnished, because as I said even rubbing it a bit will lift it. It's excellent for zenithal highlights though because of it's smooth application and it's ideal for preserving detail. More mild chemicals you can use to dissolve oil paint include water with plain white bar soap like ivory soap or Kirk's castile soap or clear dish soap, or glycerin based soaps like shaving soap from Colonel Conk, and so on. Soap isn't good to use on canvas because it embeds itself into the fibers, but it has a lot of uses. Soap and water can clean out your oil painting brushes really well. It'll remove a lot more pigment than mineral spirits alone will because it's a thick lubricant and a detergent that pushes the pigment away from the brush and it should be used after using mineral spirits or acetone based brush cleaner and paint remover to stop the attack of the hairs. And while speaking of it acetone can be diluted to remove oil paint and acrylic paint and it can be used a stripper. Mineral spirits of various kinds are pretty harsh on your brushes. So after washing it out you should add hair conditioner to your brushes. Though they sell special brush conditioner the kind you shower with works fine or you can make some from lanolin and olive oil or some aloe from your garden. You just rinse it out before you use the brush the next time. Some oil painters never allow their brushes to fully dry and use olive oil, mineral oil, or baby oil in their brushes as a conditioner or as a rinse to prevent the paint drying on their brushes between sessions, though too much in your paint can cause problems and it would be especially easy to use too much when miniature painting. Orange oil solvents used to clean up with too though some of these can be pretty aggressive, but many people can tolerate them better than they can petrol chemicals. You can also use mean green or simply green though these will color your model green and they will attack some topcoats used on cheap chromed plastic, but they are very good for cleaning resin models with a toothbrush to remove release chemicals left over during the molding process and of course we use them in 3d printing a lot. They are powerful degreasers, but also have a foaming detergent. The old school way of degreasing automotive parts or gun parts was to use leaded gasoline, but thankfully nobody really does that now. We have safer alternatives. Alcohol like isopropyl alcohol, vodka, wine, etc. will also work and are used in egg tempera painting, but they should be diluted with water for different strengths. No more than a 10% alcohol solution should be tried on the first pass. The old masters thinned oil paint with spike lavender oil (spikenard) which contains natural turpenes. This is what I use when I am painting on canvas or wood, but you can't use it on most plastics and you can't use a plastic palette when using it. And of course rather than thinning oil paint you can remove it as you fatten it with additional oil. That'll impart much more gloss however even to the areas you've removed the pigment from. You can use hardening oils like linseed, safflower, walnut, etc. or non drying oils like olive oil or vegetable oil. Non-drying oils must be used sparingly or the paint may not polymerize correctly. But if you put a little olive oil onto a Q-tip and dab most of it off a paper towel you can lift oil paint from the surface pretty easily unless it's already started to harden. That's why it's best to use only a small amount of thinner when painting with oils on models. The drawback of using less thinner during oil wash though is more gloss so a varnish with a matte coat like Testor's Dullcote after a layer you don't want to impart gloss to is a good idea. A lot of old bust painters would apply that with an airbrush after an oil layer.

I’m sorry to hear that John. All the best to you

I think so! at least the two legged thing.

As I say at the end of the video. No, don’t throw your can in the bin. Leave it to be properly recycled 👍

Hello Andrew. I mean, you can give it a try. But the subtle colour shifts are because of the transparent paint that goes on top of the oil paint. Adding oil paint on top of leadbelcher is not really the same thing...

Sorry Stretch! Good on you! I don’t smoke regularly. And never cigarettes. Quit that ages ago as well.

that is one of the theories yes :)