Thank you :)

It is a fantastic car :)

Thank you :)

Thank you :)

It will look awesome when done! :)

Thank you Phil :) we really do appreciate the encouraging words

Doesn't that blow away the welding gas?

Hi Leo that would only work with flux core not gas as the fan would blow the shielding gas away and make a very messy weld :) I was welding near the roller door Monday and had to move the car as the breeze was making it difficult :) 👍

@@yorkshirecarrestoration yes, i forgot that i don't use gas.. 🥵

@@leofabbro456 :) 👍

Thank you for the support :) 👍

Thank you mate we really do appreciate the kind words :)

Yes he's got some big plans for it and it will be back when done :)

It's is and thank you :)

No problem at all. Glad you enjoyed it :)

Thank you :)

Thank you Arthur :)

Thank you :)

Yer he is happy :)

@@yorkshirecarrestoration I would be to ,grate craftsmanship on these vehicles 👍💯

Yes deffo stronger as we usually add a strengthening section to the side :)

Thank you Peter :)

It’s like you are looking in my window😂

Thank you Paul :)

Yes he will bring it back when it's completed. It's having paint engine etc :)

It was supplied by the customer and has the correct shapes in it :) the rest won't be wasted it will be used on something else :)

We may see a new car soon :)

@@yorkshirecarrestoration great ! i working on a - 82 Mercedes 300 TDT myself and i really need some inspiration.

Your comments are always welcome here James, the tips always help others :) 👍

@@yorkshirecarrestoration Plastering & applying filler are pretty much identical skills. Every plasterer on earth uses a brush dipped in water to work their plaster - it's fundamental for getting a good finish.. But bodywork guys skip that step for no reason I can work out - thinners is "water" when it comes to filler. There's no difference to what both are trying to achieve - a smooth finish - but bodywork guys skip that "water-brush" step & instead spend hours sanding lumpy filler... Plasterers would think they had lost the plot if their Pal didn't brush out the plaster flat first...but bodywork guys don't.. I taught myself how to plaster walls as good as a professional plasterer - just "because" - family are plasterers and I wasn't... so I learnt - the skills are transferable & the techniques are exactly the same - but for some reason, EVERY bodyworker skips the essential "Brush it out" step to applying filler. Ok, you have to use thinners, not water - but it is exactly the same technical principle - you use a brush to flow the filler smooth, before final finish sanding.

Once you try it once, it makes such total sense that you will never, not ever, apply filler without brushing it out with thinners again - you wouldn't even dream of skipping that step that NOBODY does. It saves so many hours farting about with sandpaper that you'd look at anyone who doesn;t do it like they needed their head examined. The first benefit is there's no more low-spots or pock marks - the second benefit is you can sand even the soddiest of sod door-jams smooth using 240 grit followed by 320 grit in minutes, not hours - because the brush did 80% of the work for you. It changes the game. Try it. . Instead of sanding endless filler, you now just have to sand out the bristle marks, which is - trust me - a doddle.

⁠@@jamesward5721James, that’s such a smart observation you made, using a solvent soaked brush to smooth out the “filled” surfaces. With plastering, a water wetted brush. With car body filler, a paint solvent based liquid, also brushed. That’s a cool idea. Only yesterday I was using a two part wood filler on part of the bottom step of my grand Victorian staircase. Our carpet layer recommended I make a feature of the extended lower step, which has a semicircular extension around the base of the stunning newel post. He’d said provided I can resurface the parts to be painted & properly profile the semicircular piece and the undergirding wood, painting it white gloss to echo the skirting boards and door frames, it’ll be a really attractive feature. He’d also pointed out that it’s very difficult to achieve as nice a finish to carpet, while trying to get it to conform to the multiple curvatures involved. I was a bit skeptical, but seeing it this morning, I think he’s absolutely right. I mentioned it because I not only needed to install some pieces of wood (gaps having previously been hidden by the old carpet) but also to use quite a lot of filler to match profiles all around. The worst part was the sanding back & the dust generated, much of which was, to your point, to accomplish a smooth finish. I’d simply never considered smoothing t out before it goes off. It’s very rapid in this summer warmth. I’ll have to look into what solvent I need. Oh, and many of us do the same type of surface treatment when we grout between ceramic tiles. A wetted sponge as it cures can make all the difference to the final finish! Because we cannot remediate badly applied grout by sanding, we are prompted to wet smooth it. It also fills the gap properly so that water doesn’t wick between tile edge and the grout itself. Sorry to rabbit on 😊

Steve, your one-handed precision and adeptness with an angle grinder is remarkable. I’m not a car guy, but where I use an angle grinder, I must use two hands to control the cut / grind & occasion “kicks” threaten to drive me off course. I think it’s smooth confidence, born of long experience, coupled with decent strength.

Thank you very much :)

😁👍

Thank you for the support :)

We get asked tha question a lot. There is no reason replacing good metal with more,good metal, it just wasts time and money, most restorers will just use sections that they need not a whole panel. The panels are just that big incase your hole is that big. :) 👍

@@yorkshirecarrestoration thanks and that makes sense. I am surprised the panel as a whole repair is easier than fabrication of a part of it, but that’s on me. Great job and keep up the good work

Sorry but it's all finished thank you for watching. There was no need to change the rear 1/4 panel , it as just a liytle panel beating, sorry you were confused.

btw very well spotted , your attention to detail must be top draw :)

It will make an appearance when it's finished :)

1mm cutting disks :)

Definitely Mats car 😁

Fortunately it’s unlikely to be out on a rainy day ever again.

Haha nope that's my son Ryan :)

@@yorkshirecarrestoration I know lol 😂

Music is all listed in the description :) 👍

On the outside none structural 1mm on structural it's 1.2 to 1.6 :)

Where I live in the U.S. the area is called the rust belt. My cars are over 23 years old, and all the jack points are gone. I do a combination of mig welding and body panel adhesives to repair them. I am doing repairs not restoration work like you. It is a pleasure to watch you work like an artist. All my metal comes from old filing cabinets, bed frames and old appliances.@@yorkshirecarrestoration

Nope this is the red one, the other one is Mat Armstrongs.

@@yorkshirecarrestoration yeah I remembered,,I already go and watch again to make sure that this is not Mat E24😊😊

I don't know they were supplied by the customer :)

Well it is :)

@@yorkshirecarrestoration well done :)

Thank you haha

Thank you but There are 3 other people working in the background grinding and cutting and swearing and the radio and when the compressor kicks in we can't even hear ourselves so it's either music or no video :)