As a mechanic of 26yrs and someone who got slightly screwed on a used Gambler with a somewhat minor engine issue, number one is get that boat on the water, running, for a good period or time. 30 minutes at least. The boat I bought had a bad stator that left me stranded 2 miles down river. Probably why the guy would only let it run for short periods while I looked at it. It is no different than a car, you need to test drive. Great advice from you as usual!

Not only a compression check but a leak down test on each cylinder will tell you the overall health of the engine.

Propshaft looks straight...... but that is NOT a stainless cotter pin keeping that prop nut secured. Sumbitch is rusted! 😂 Props aren't cheap!

Thanks so much for providing this info to those of that need it.

Very good advice. Thanks for this overview Randy. 👍

Loving the video!!!Great tips Randy!!!🤓

I never worried about scratches on anything...makes me less angry when I do it myself or less reluctant to get into tight areas

Great advice, thanks for sharing your expertise.

Great advice Randy. I go with all my friends to check boats they want to buy. My stepfather ran a marine repair and salvage company. So I learned quite alot.

Thanks for the info Randy!

Great advice and video Randy. I would only add, "Don't get in a big hurry!" I've seen more people disappointed because they were in a rush to step up to that next level of boat. The boat you're looking for is out there. Be vigilant but be patient.

I'm saving up. I cannot wait to finally get my hands on my own boat again. And videos like these are always welcome

Great topic Randy!

Good solid advise. Also always tap the lower unit screw and make sure its not milky down there.

I’ve bought a lot of boats, and I can’t agree with you more! Thanks

Good tips. Gotta bass tracker tournament v-17 and it is a great boat for over here in these Kansas lakes, which are most all under 10-15000 acres. Best boat ever for around shallow standing trees. I was in a 20 foot boat around the same trees and its much tougher to maneuver around IMO

Thanks. It helps me look for one. 👍🏻

good tips Randy. Buying used is sometimes the best option for us.

Thanks Randy, great video, great advice! Another way to save yourself some serious money is to wait if possible. Right now, the new and especially the used market prices are hyperinflated. The only way I would buy a boat right now, assuming that it checked out mechanically, is from someone that's been or fixing to be laid off and need to get out from under it. Just scored a practically new Toyota pick up for way, way under the inflated market prices by doing that very thing.

Thanks for the tips man I’m going to look at an ‘02 ranger tomorrow night. Gonna be my first fiberglass rig after fishing from an aluminum v for 15 years.

The outboard, transom and overall hull integrity are the two biggest things to me...I've had to replace a transom before and it is not easy, nor cheap.

Also, make sure you have a good marine service center near your home that can help you with any service needs of your outboard. It is a headache when the nearest mechanic for your outboard is 50-150 miles away. My local dealer is a Yamaha service center. To get a Mercury outboard serviced is 80 miles away from my home.

Don't forget about the trailer and winch. If it's eaten through with rust, your looking at trouble there to. Surface rust can be tended to in the driveway.

Excellent advice! Somebody else put those scratches in so I don't have to. 😉

I like my 01 Triton with its nicks and dings, so I don’t spend my time worrying about a new ding and polishing it with a diaper all the time. Upgraded my engine to a 4 stroke and could not be happier with the combo.

Great video! Another very important thing is is to find out if the guy was a tournament fisherman or not.. those guys are definitely a lot rougher on their gear from what I've seen in the last 40 years. And try to buy from personal ad not a boat lot. AND ALWAYS LAKE TEST !!!!

I bought a 95 champion as my first boat. I was young and dumb. The guy wouldn't let me take it on the water because he had a broken leg at the time. Huge mistake. I blew the motor 2nd time using it, had to replace the rotted front deck, and replace the pumps because they were cracked and leaking. Boy did I learn.

Get a leak down test on the powerhead. Tells you things the compression test doesn't. Look for starburst patterns in the hull, impact damage. Look for signs of impact damage at the front of the motor's lower unit. And run the boat for a while. Make sure all the electrical stuff works, if more than a couple of things don't work, the boat was not well taken care of, or is a crappy boat. Lengthwise stress cracks or gouges in the hull can lead to delamination. It helps if you've personally run a boat hard. Like Randy. You know what to look for. 😁

good information

Although… you see that rubber keel guard on that hull, you’re going to want to know what that’s covering up.

The transom, hull, and engine are paramount. The transom is the most important in my opinion. If you get a used boat with a compromised or soft transom it will ruin everything.

If I ever sold my boat or bought another... I would offer them to go fishing. So everyone can hire it weekend and performs

I'm looking at a 1984 monarch bass boat look well taken care of have not seen it in person comes with trailer $3000 what should I look for?

Hi Randy, you’ve been talking about used boats and overkill on electronics In todays bass fishing My best and most productive was in the 1970s in a late 60 model skeeter bass boat. Just a 50 Ho evenrude , stick steering and a small trolling motor. No electronics. If you are familiar with that style/ model fiberglass bass boat. Who makes a bass boat now in that particular type bass boat. It performed well , on Large Corp of engineers Texas lakes. Very windy. No problem. Do you or any of your readers know the style boat I’m describing?

2014 90 HP 4 cylinder Mercury....compressions should read what? more important to read within 10% for all readings or the actual number?? what number is ok? how low is acceptable?

Also check the lower unit gear oil. If its milky that means water is getting into the gears and will lead to a broken lower unit.

How many hours is to many

Randy, as a pro angler who’s gone thru many boats and had first hand experience with no reason to BS a man, how many miles do you consider allot for a used motor? What range should someone look for? Anyone else with an opinion, please jump in! Thx

Super Tipps for sure..but i can not afford a boot..thats the thing randy ...family house..car..live is to expensive

did not see any in my budget lol im lookin for arounf 900$ lol

You had me until you said you dont need three fish finders up front lol

Compression test big big deal

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You get screwed buying used bass boats regardless... ppl asking 15k for a 15yr old boat when you can buy a brand new one for 20-25

Don't forget to mention when buying a used boat to remove all electronics so you can perfect your primitive angling skills... Maybe even cut a stick and use some silk line for rods when getting things rigged in the new boat...

Those viaggio pontoons are absolute trash.

what are your thoughts on livescope?

Amen….l have never bought a new boat bought 5 or 6 used boats over last 30 years have never bought on without doing a compression check on motor…fyi if one cylinder is 20 % lower or higher than the rest something is going wrong…stay away….happy 🚤