In terms of KZfaq analytics, this is my most successful KZfaq video to date. In terms of content efficacy, I dropped the ball on more than a few of these topics. So, be sure to read through the comments as there is some very valuable information. Thanks to everyone contributing!

That crane video finally made me understand. I use input shaping when I drive, or more specifically, when I brake. When coming to a stop, I release the brake to prevent the uncomfortable jerk you can get.

A pretty good video for beginners. But there is one little fault in the PSD graphs (min 26.30-28). You compiled multible resonace tests together what will lead to an incorrect PSD graph and subsequentely less optimal inputshaper. It is a common issue. To fix it reboot klipper after compliling one set of results.

Finally someone explains what to actually do with the data. Helpfull video to improve my IS results. Thanks!

very underrated channel

I discovered you yesterday, I'm looking in today and I see you're off to a great start. I really like it, keep it up! I've been following a number of 3D print youtubers for a few years now, but I haven't come across such a nice analysis of resonances yet. I would highly recommend, don't say what you think, for example about those A, B, C subsets of SPI, but get the facts and say the facts, or don't say anything at all. ;) I appreciate how you mentioned the obsolescence of the naming of MISO and MOSI without mentioning the background of it all, and just put forward the solution as it's being named now. Similar names have been part of the electrical and PC jargon for decades and it brings some confusion now, but I appreciate that people are thinking about it and looking for solutions.

Very good and thourough explanation. Great watch!

The examples for visualizing are awesome!🤩

Very good quality!!! Congrats!😊

That's a huge amount of info about all I want to know about, leaving a like and hope to see you get bigger on YT bcs you deserved it! Tysm

This was an really well put together video!

Great video!! Really needed this, much appreciated.

Spencer, first of all - you did a really great job with this video and you earned a subscriber! Almost brought a tear to my eye as an engineer. Some "into the weeds" details are given below, which may help as a second layer to what you already said, for posterity: In terms of dampening and tolerance to error, MZV is looser than ZV. And EI is even looser still. As such, a lot of people prefer to use EI on the Y axis for a bed slinger, because the moving mass will inherently increase as the print progresses. This gives you some flexibility at the expense of the theoretically ideal shaping scheme. For the X axis, you obviously picked up on this already - but something should be addressed if you have 2 major resonances modes as shown. Is your filament spool on the top of gantry? I would be looking for decoupled masses like that, etc. On my machine, moving the spool to a holder off to the side really cleaned up my shaper results and I am back to 1 discrete peak. Somewhat related to the above - a trick in the Klipper community is to 'pin down' the Y axis when you are measuring the X axis, and vice-versa when measuring the Y axis. This is usually done mechanically with some sort of clamping or interference fit piece to stop it moving in an orthogonal axis during the measurement. Especially useful on a bed slinger.

Great video, thx! Really informative and helpful.

Thank you so much, I knew the theory more or less behind input shaping but i didnt knew how to read the graphs and/or choose what shaper I would use. Now lets see if i can get bet print quality and higher speeds

Elsewhere on youtube, I saw someone resting their printer on a heavy cement tile (about a couple of inches thick) itself resting on some foam, claiming some improvement with input shaper and overall accelerations. Anyway, I really enjoyed this video, and hope you make many more. Thanks!

Great work! Thanks for sharing👍

Thanks for the explanation!

Wow good stuff sir! I thought I pretty much knew input shaper… turns out I had no idea.

I feel like you skipped over the physical results. They were only on screen for a couple seconds each. Algo is picking your videos up, keep going!

Great video, subscribed and can't wait for more 😁

Also worth mentioning, that input shaper on small parts such as gears can result in artifacts! So in case you are printing something small and precise set low speeds and maybe disable IS.

Great video! A suggested video turned out to be a real gem! I have been thinking about sand filling the frame of my Ender 3 to dampen resonance and increase mass. A common practice in heavier tools such as lathes, mills and bench drills. Even cars have resonance dampers for specific frequency mounted on suspensions, exhaust, engines and gearboxes. I'm sure theres a specific amount of mass which will be optimal for best perfomance on a 3D printer which would be seen on klippers resonance curves. Also in video Y axis had more resonance when placed on floor instead of the shelf. Got me thinking, what if printer was placed on rails? Which made printer movable. You earned a new subscriber just by this video! Keep it up

But it's AN input shaper, not input shaper. It does input shaping. It's like saying you are not getting the most out of car or toaster. Marlin has an input shaper , duet's have an input shaper, klipper has an input shaper. Actually they all have many variations of the input shapers to use (MZV, ZVD, EL, etc.). Outside of annoying wording good video overall. People for some reason think klipper is the only solution.

Very interesting, Thanks!

An informative video. Great watch. Off the top of my head, your shelf material is likely to be flatter than the floor. So the printer base will be equally supported on each corner/foot. So the printer may wobble more even on a hard floor. On the other hand a lot of shelving isn't level, indeed some brackets encourage a slight rearward slope, which may give uneven results. It might be revealing to experiment with thicker or heavier shelving material, or even rubber mating. There may be a sweet spot between damping or encouraging wobble!?

Great video! One important note about shorting out / damaging your electronics. The only thing that is ever critical with those communication signals is power and ground. If you triple check those, you can have any other mistake with clock and data lines - nothing bad will happen. It just won't work. You can try another combination and correct it. I'd mention that clearly not to scare people. Paying attention to that simple rule I never destroyed anything in 10 years of tinkering with electronics (at least when dealing with simple connections like that). Keep on making great videos :)

Jut as an additional input: Marlin also sports input shaping since a few minor versions. I had very nice results by printing a test-print and measured the position of best edges and calculated the frequency. Added this f to Marlin config and perfect :) I like to have no additional Raspi and have all done in Marlin. Also a pro: No sensor needed ;)

Nicely done .. ThankYou for sharing .. Cheers :)

great stuff bro!

Love the video! Would have loved an in depth overview of the print results, I didn’t really understand the print quality comparison between them.

I was always surprised at how little resonance my printer had during all the tests, considering it was an Ender series. Worked out over time it must be due to it being the Ender 5, which has a cube frame and doesn't use the bed slinger method for the Y. I still ran the input shaper. It did improve how quiet the printer and a slight improvement in speed, but I think the Input Shaper is most useful for the "bed slinger" style printers. This video appealed to me both on the geeky nerdy level with the data, but also on a level where it was simple enough to understand and not have to think about htings too deeply.

Hi. Just a 'litlle' hint to 'ALLl' You Tube presentators (NOTE! Just in general): When you hold your item in your hand to show the thing and explane something of it at the same time: Please hold Your hands 'STILL', don't 'swift' 'flap' 'move'... or whats the description of my meaning (I'm a FIN so my gramma in english doesn't cover so well the thought), I hope you know what I mean. I certainly like the stuff on Your video ;)

I just did this a couple of weeks ago, along with hooking up a Bltouch to it 😀

great video. the theory is similar to active noise cancellation

the new prusa slicer version also has the input shaper implemented, turns my mini+ from 40mm/s² to 140mm/s² !

I would've really liked to have seen before & after prints sitting next to each other.

thx, well done

I think you should "dive deeper" into cooling prints, which is kinda strange topic when it comes to pla.

Your description of the wiring is good, but there are some efficiencies to simplify things.... there is no real need to use two different SPI busses for the sensors, whilst not an issue with the Pico example it's not really the most effecient thing when using SPI long term (that is to say, wastes pins that could be used for other things if you had a different project using SPI devices I the future). You can use the same power, data in (MOSI), data out (MISO), and clock lines for all SPI devices... just attach different controller pins to each sensors Chip Select pins. An SPI device will only communicate of the MISO line if it's CS pin is high (or low can't remember off top of head). So using different pins for CS allows the MCU to select which device it's talking to. In your Klipper example it's just a case of putting a different cs_pin in the config for each accelerometer. For other projects using SPI in the likes of arduino or other IDE (or coding language) again it's just a case of defining the pin used for CS for each device .

vibr refers to the residual vibration % should that particular model be applied--lower is better. sm is how much smoothing will result with that model or how much input shaper will cause the actual movement to deviate from its requested path in order to achieve the vibration reduction--lower is better and higher leads to rounded corners, loss of fine details, etc. only use this to rank the available models, outside of this, the number has no purpose. accel is maximum acceleration for that model beyond which there will be ADDITIONAL smoothing effect. it does not mean your machine is actually capable at that acceleration--you have to print the model to inspect for ringing for this. smoothing is probably not a big deal if you print artistic parts but if you are modelling walls with circular holes that need to be circular, smoothing will make them ovals which is going to be terribly annoying for functional parts. klipper's recommendation for you is based on an internal calculation to rank the models based on these values, details of which i dont know of, but is usually close to spot on. ZV ("zero vibration") is going to the the best model for an ideal printer (one resonant frequency with infinite power spectral density). since such a printer can't exist, other models will probably perform better and this is due to the printer having multiple resonant frequencies that ZV cannot handle but other more complex models can. higher frequencies are better because this means the shaper can work at higher frequencies to counter it. low frequency is worse because if the shaper can only work at lower frequencies, your accelerations will also be lowered. that said there is little you can do to majorly alter the major resonant frequencies of your printer without serious modification. but you can improve it a little with screw tightening: tightening screws everywhere is a good idea in general: it can really eliminate certain small peaks as shown in the video. for example if the fan shroud screw is loose, this means the mass of the shroud becomes its own oscillator causing a small peak other than the main one (the printer frame, the toolhead). tightening it down eliminates the peak as it truly becomes one with the toolhead, creating a new, larger mass that resonates at one, new frequency, probably a higher one. resonant frequency is proportional to the root of stiffness so if you tighten all screws in the frame, the major resonant frequency contributed by the frame should shift right as shown in the video. it will also reduce internal damping which will squeeze the peak making it taller and thinner (become more like a tuning fork, which is easier for input shaping to counter). less damping is not good but if you tighten the peak, the shaper will work better at its sole job which is to add damping. the peaks which didn't move are probably not related to stiffness from screws. just a warning on screw tightening in the frame. this can create skew in the frame for any printer making it lose squareness. where you sit the printer also matters. if the table or shelf has a different resonant frequency as the printer, it is going to show up as its own peak. meanwhile the solid ground has infinite mass but also infinite stiffness, meaning it does nothing to the printer--it doesn't actually make the printer worse per se---it just reveals the true resonance of the printer itself where previously the table or shelf you had it on was simultaneously providing noise as well as damping (in most cases the damping effect more than compensates for the fact that it introduces a noise frequency which sometimes at least one of the shaper models can also compensate for). but ideally the best place to put the printer is on a stable and stiff furniture (no noise) but with damping from stiff foam. you don't want the printer to sit on foam directly because the frame needs a solid and flat surface to prevent flexing from its own vibrations. so what people have come up with is to place it on a stone/granite/cinder block slab with stiff foam below and the sturdy table underneath. this gives you a massive, stiff and flat surface for the printer while still providing damping. last note: input shaper will alter the behavior of PA/LA. do input shaper early or else redo PA tuning after.

Build my first Prusa MK1 9 years ago. Then build same concept on my own steel cube frame - big improvement. Now own Bambu Lab X1 - Carbon and no matter what I do with frame will never match performance of X1. Sophisticated software which check rezonans on 1st calibration. Extruder adaptation. 1st layer scanner. Carbon X rails with external extruder makes it very fast.

Pico & pack-o-sensors ordered!!! Now I just have to get back to trying to make Klipper work! :)

Very helpful vid. I was thinking i'm lazy and it would be great if I can just leave the pi pico on the machine, but my raspberry pi3a runs hot and I'm concerned about the power draw. So I was wondering if I could connect my pico through a U2C [usb to can already takes power from the power supply so shouldn't strain raspi] converter with canboot and plug pico into that. I'm assuming the pin callout would look different, but also like would it be possible.

You're getting your vyper to cook at this speed wow, im going to up the speeds of mine i thought from the thumbnail you were going to talk more core xy than bed slinging. I have been printing at 75mm/s at 3000 accel

Thank you Spencer for the deep dive.

Hey, that's a great video. It would be possible, that the PSD peaks you saw on the bed were the back an forth movement (typically printer y axis). I'm somewhat convinced, that the "loudspeaker" theme is not the obvious answer to that measurement. Maybe there was a mix-up of printer vs accel axes - or what could happen is, that your mount vibrated a lot, since the breakout board hangs off of the printbed itself. Just as a reference, a flat aluminum sheet of decent thickness has audible resonances in the highest of Hz, I would assume kHz - range. It's very stiff compared to your belts and the large frame with bolted connections etc :)..

Great video and explanation of the graphs. Did you make the power cables for your printer or did they come with it?

You should use the recommended input shapers for your outside perimeters, you can bump up your speeds and accelerations for most other print features, just test your max speeds and accel don't cause stepper skipping.

I would like to mention for other people you can just get the newer adxl345 with usb c and you dont need to do all of the fancy wiring as it is just ran usb c to usb A via Raspberry Pi or whatever Ive ran it through a raspberry, and laptops. Also if you get the BTT adxl345 you can screw it in where the nozzle goes as they provide a hole and a screw to tie into the hotend directly.

Great video from the start but you flew by the results, (the 3d printed parts). For someone who delved into details I was expecting for a detailed analisys of the parts. It deserves a brief follow up video imo. Subscribed.

Think it's the first time I see any explanation at all about smoothing. Klipper docs just throw the term, everywhere else is, well all over the place. Great content, you did a pretty good job introducing it. I'd suggest a follow up to go more in detail for the diagnostic part and understand all the chart lines. I would also point out that the input shaper is a great way to tune belt tension. It's very easy to get it wrong and can have a dramatic impact on print quality, acceleration and even layer shift odds at higher speeds.

What extruders you all use for these speeds? You'll hit volumetric flow (melt capacity) sooner than any mechanical speed limits.

Great Video. Thanks. What about the cross correlation with Pressure Advance? When I did the input shaping I had to repeat my Pressure advance calibration. And I found pressure advance to be very sensitive to the acceleration I am using. Did see any impact to your pressure advance setring when you have changed the acceletions? After input shaping I was able to run with 3500 mm/s2, but only for the generic calibration test. When printing real parts the print quality was6not good, and I think because of the cross correlation between acceleration and pressure advance.

Hey Spencer, great video, I appreciate the detail in the electronics section, and the recommendation to use a sacrificial pico; that will no doubt save heaps of frustration! I'd have loved to see a more detailed review and comparison of the results - seemed like you introduced and then skipped it? is there a section missing in the edit?

I see you are also a user of the coin pusher style desktop environment. I'm about to hit a jackpot.

Thanks for the video. Just a bit of errata with the pin labeling for the pico within the klipper config file. While the cs wire is connected to the physically second pin on the pico, it is labeled as gpio1, not gpio2, so the cs line should read cs_pin: pico: gpio1

Could this be what saves delta printers after all??

What a well organized video! If possible, can you add a video chapters?

increase your accel per hz and you'll get cleaner graphs. the power spectral density is only scaled up to 1e3, which is usually an indicator that you're measuring a lot of non-data

I never heard of this before and it was very interesting. As a total neewbie, I didnt quite get, how this gets applied. If I understand correctly, this get measured once for the printer and then acts as a correction function. But as what point is it used. For example I use oftoprint with a raspberry pi on my artillery sidewinder. Is this correction something that gets applied in the slicer or does it need a totaly different way of controlling the printer directly with the pi?

magic

I found that title a bit misleading, a good intro to input shaping, but I was left hungry for more info on interpreting the graphs and the meaning of those numbers. I've come across statements saying things like "if your recommended shaper isn't ZV or MZV there's something wrong with your printer" - what do you make of that? Another thing I'd like to mention regarding that Z resonance you're complaining about: I've had similar problems due to the bed belt not being parallel to the Y axis, the angle it had on both ends of the carriage was introducing a vertical component to the forces, I modified the carriage model so the belts became parallel which fixed the problem.

thanks a lot - subscribed Not sure if that would improve bambulab printers too

I would definitely love if you could dive a bit into the limited cartesian kinematics. From what I have seen it allows you to have a separate x and y axis acceleration which allows you to fully utilize the maximum input shaper speeds without being limited by a certain axis. For example, at around 23:25 If I wanted to use the input shaper EI with an acceleration of 3000, I wouldn't be able to utilize input shaper 3HUMP_EI to its full 3300 acceleration.

Input shaper is just one part of good print quality. If you print fast, the nozzle and linear advance has a much bigger impact on what looks like ringing or ghosting. Accelerometer input shaping can also give pretty poor real world results, as it doesn't measure the tip of the nozzle. The amlitude is always to low or even completely off depending where the accelerometer is mounted. Therefor the dampening values are set wrong over an average of printing speeds.

Request: clearer side-by-sides. Both diagrams and print tests Diagrams: pick out just the 2 relevant columns from the CSVs, label them properly (e.g. "floor" and "shelf", instead of "before" and "after"), put them in the same diagram instead of next to each other Print tests: photographs side by side, same angle on both objects, clear labels Thank you for the video, I know it's a lot of work, I recommend using a checklist for the production. There are plenty out there for you to combine and adapt

As the print grows higher, the mechanical oscillator for the X axis changes. Can the filtering be done for the whole range?

I liked the video and the info; I thought it was well done. However, I would have liked to see more of the actual print results.

My ender 3 v3 se without input shaping can do fine at 300mm/s but i usually print at 150mm/s

there is or was a problem.. not sure if still present. the very first query to accelerometer after firmware restart on a pico will always fail. the second will succeed. dont give up to soon. (has todo with late spi initialization)

would putting fuses between the adxl and the pi board prevent shorting?

at around 4:15 you said the 2 videos are linked in the description? I cant see them anywhere?

I don't have a printer but how about this technique. Draw/print the line then stop the printer at the corner then proceed downward. Would that make for sharper corners?

Please do a video for Marlin firmware and getting data from the adxl with arduino board

I appreciate your work on the topic. Unfortunately, this only applies to one printer model. For me - a Delta owner - this information is only a theory.

This is a lot of work. Are there printers that come standard with this?

So - no rigid mounting to shelf? How much of compliance? Rubber feet or floating platform?

The "after" graphs are an average of three measurements (see headlines). Where did you probe for the final measurements?

Only 7 minutes in but the entire time I was wondering how do you input shape on a bed slinger printer. With the bed moving in the y axis and the print head moving in the x axis where do you put the senors in order to capture both oscillations. Honestly I felt like input shaping was only for CoreXY printers where the print head moved in both the x and y direction. I'll continue to watch.

Can i use this with 8bit board?

Kann ein Input Shaper auch für Audio-Wiedergabe (20Hz bis 20kHz) genutzt werden? Kann ein Verstärker mit vorgeschaltetem Messmikrofon die Trägheiten eines Lautsprechers korrigieren, dämpfen oder sogar kompensieren ?

How do I get input shaping on my ender 3 ke, I spend 20 bucks and plug in the sensor that should have came with the printer in the first place.

Marlin nowdays has both pressure advance and input shaping as well

hi, Marlin also has an input shaper feature I have a pretty fast ender3 benchy on my channel (my only video, just wanted to share)

If the communication fails on the first time, try a second time. Sometimes it doesn't work on first try.

Graphs and IS recommendations should use only the latest CSV file. Delete or move away old ones, or use named file instead of * 😉

Hi, small suggestion for improvement on video production: The background music during the introduction part was really distracting to me, so it was harder to follow you. Firstly it was a bit too loud and secondly - way more important - it had a lot of sounds in the same frequency range as your voice. So as a result your voice is competing with the background music. To resolve this you could either choose music that avoids these frequencies altogether or eq them out. Other than that - great video! I'm going to re-assess my input shaping

Does it really tell the printer to go BACK? I thought that it "cuts the corner", since frequencies are REMOVED and not added: going backwards involves adding high frequency movements. But in general the results are the ones you mention

I don't know if anyone else asked this. If you have the capability maybe you could look at Marlin's new Input Shaping capability.

Hi Spencer, nice video. The theory was neatly explained. But... (right? ha ha) you created an expectancy 0:24 about showing something for people familiar with input shaping that would "change how we approach 3D printing" - so I stayed... (I wanted to know "why I am NOT getting the most out of Input Shaper") and... where is it? If that's the charts and understanding how they work... well, that's nothing people familiar with it don't know already. By the way, having two distinct peaks at your X axis means the printer needs mechanical attention. A mechanical healthy printer has a more distinct single peak, not two as yours are showing. Finally, the printed results are still quite wobbly - a LOT of 3D Printers can do better than that without input shaping at all. Hope you can improve the X-axis and try it again. Good luck with the channel!

I don't understand how this thing could work correctly when the print head has to move along the z axis. There should be a great difference in resonances when the head is at z=0 and z- in the middle point of maximum travel distance

please clean that fan... i am itching

For the final results you forgot to clean up your tmp folder and the plot used 3 runs for drawing which can become misleading result

Hey man, I enjoyed the video but your autofocus is a little distracting, especially when looking at the background. Keep up the good work!

It's your printer that rings not the belts :) Even people with screws instead of belts have ghosting.

Very good explanation. Please lower the music level or drop it.

what if i have a delta (flsun q5)

Honestly, maybe tighten your belt first of all and that might solve it 😮

3:30 you described it absolutely wrong