That sounds really neat!! I may have to try that. I like the idea that the results is more metallic looking. Thank you so much for sharing this method. I have since switched to using a thinner mixture and an airbrush. I have gotten very good results that way. I also added a couple drop of food coloring into my mix so it isn't so white. That really helped see the coverage.

@@CNCATHome At first I was doing 2-3 coats from a spray bottle and have to wait in between to dry. Now the dusting is super light. In small areas you can see the tile shine but so far that hasn't made that much of a difference except some areas may not be as dark but I use a syringe and use that to place more TiO2 water slurry in needed areas. Whats neat is since I use an oil first, when I use the syringe, the oil and water don't want to mix and forces all the TiO2 slurry into the burned areas and none anywhere else. Makes it so easy to refill lines for a re-burn.

Wow! Thank you for sharing that. I have had other people mention using glue in their mix. I will have to experiment with the water alcohol mix to see how well they play together.

Exactly! That is how science works. You can theorize all you want and until you do it, you won't know. If something works or not, you will learn something and can go from there.

That does seems slow. I am glad the results are turning out good. I have been using a 3:1 ratio of denatured alcohol to TiO2 and applying it with an airbrush. I can get a consistent layer that isn't very thick and it burns quickly and dark black with my 10watt output laser and I think I am running at 4,000 mm/min with 40% to 50% power with a 0.100mm interval.

I don't think I would go quite that far but I'll take it. ;-) I have really enjoyed working with the TiO2 so far. It is almost impossible to screw up. At least with the mixture I have. I can coat the tiles inside so I can do this year round. Cleanup can be done with water or even just a cloth should take most of it off. Definitely faster production time for setup, burning, and cleanup. It is a win, Win, WIN!

That is a great question. I have not gotten that to work yet. I have also not tried very hard to use this with metal. It is a good thing to put on my list to try. I have tried using an etching compound designed for metal. With the lower power of my diode laser, I did not get it to work.

I am using denatured alcohol as my medium for the suspension. I don't know the ratio any more as I started around 1:1 and quickly started adding alcohol to thin it out as it was way too thick. Thank you for the question.

@@CNCATHome i Will try I bought to2 last year but after a failed test I gave up, thanks 4 answer

@@progettazioneerealizzazione - That is funny that you say that. I thought I purchased my TiO2 a few months back to have it at the ready for when I had time to play with it. I looked it up and it had been sitting, waiting for me for over a year before I took time to get after it. I am so glad that I did. I hope you are able to get yours going.

@@CNCATHome yes sure if o have time I will do this weekend thanks 👍

Great question Mark. Absolutely it will. The color of the tile doesn't affect the process. It will change the look. I have one a 12X12 tile that had more neutral coloring to it and it worked great. I would love to find some red, yellow, orange, etc... tiles as they could really turn out nicely. As long as they are relatively flat and have a nice glazed surface, this process should work great.

I just got red,blue,yellow and BLACK,will let you know once the titanium oxide arrives

@@markhaskins4421 - Where did you find your colored tiles? Not sure how well the black will work with black on black? But you never know until you try. 🙂

I live in Australia,and i got them from a hardware store called Bunnings

It wasn't intended as a gotcha tactic. It truly was surprised that the thicker coating of TiO2 worked as well as it did. When I use the white paint method and put too much on, it greatly affects the results in a bad way. With that method, more is NOT a good thing. I was expecting similar results with the two coats of TiO2. I was pleasantly surprised that it worked as well as it did.

Great question. The LC-50 Plus I am using in this video is a 10 watt emitter. I have an AtomStack P7 with a 5.5 watt emitter and it works fine. I would think your Ortur would work well. You won't be able to go quite a fast. It should work just fine. I did many coasters with my LE5040 (a 5.5 watt emitter) using the white paint method and it did a great job. It is the TiO2 in the white paint that does the trick.

Thank you for asking. Short answer on both questions is no. Here is the longer answer that may help. There isn't a file for the test burning. That is generated within LightBurn using their Material Test function. It gives you good flexibility to to create a test pattern. You can control how many tests are in each direction, how large they are, what the parameters are for each axis. I don't think I have a file for the zeroing fixture either. I did a video on how to make this that you can watch kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n89kddCds5u7d3k.htmlsi=Vc44PQR8kRuaeDdz. I did use a larger laser for the bottom cut as it was bigger than the working area of the P7. I checked my project files and could not find anything on this. I likely did not save it. Sorry about that. I had a piece of scrap 3mm craft plywood that was about 250mm X 100mm. I made a squaring cut along one of the long edges. Near the right side of that, I went in 2mm to create a notch to go around the neoprene foot. That is about 37mm long before I come back 4 mm to create a hook for the front of the leg. I hope that makes sense. With that done, I put the zeroing template in place, zeroed the laser, and cut through the plywood in both the X and Y direction. The main trick for this to work is when focusing the laser module, making sure the zero is in the correct spot as the laser module can rotate slightly around the locking bolt. I try to always rotate the laser module as fully clockwise as it will go when I focus and lock it into place. This gives me some consistency in zeroing.

@CNCATHome thanks for the measurements for the jig. I can use that pretty easily. I've been pretty disgusted with Lightburn, it has me in a perpetual "baby mode" and almost nothing works. I paid for this? Oh well...caveat emptor.

@@HugoHugunin - I am sorry to hear that. I have had very few issues with LightBurn over the years.

Great question. The LC-50 Plus I am using in this video is a 10 watt emitter. I have an AtomStack P7 with a 5.5 watt emitter and it works fine. I would think your Ortur would work well. You won't be able to go quite a fast. It should work just fine. I did many coasters with my LE5040 (a 5.5 watt emitter) using the white paint method and it did a great job. It is the TiO2 in the white paint that does the trick.