I know, but I’m wondering how many cheap lasers I will have time to pay for. Most of my lasers I have fixed myself by your guidance, it’s funny how much a tiny spring or two will affect the laser, I have to guess where they go and that’s why I would love to have illustration of my 26 or So lasers in individual component placement.

@@danielrushing4600 Yeah the parts can be quite sensitive. There are simply so may types/designs of lasers so making diagrams for them all would be quite difficult. I try to show concepts and function above everything else so that way it's far easier to know what things do and where they go along with possible modifications that can be thought of. The other thing is that for the most part i build my own pointers which I have done for years. Because of this I don't see many pointers made by companies or other people.

what is that lens called that is on the diode

@@idavidbadger9657 It's a lens or set of lenses with a positive power overall. It's normally called the pump focusing lens in many diagrams but I have heard it also called a condensing lens in a laser optical train since it often is used to make a small spot. Not much special to it, maybe an AR coating for NIR but it's just a small bi-convex lens.

@@Zenodilodon much appreciated brother and great vids enjoy watching. keep up the great work and honorable enlightening to viewers

I am aiming to be one of the best channels on YT for laser/optical related technology. I want to help and inspire others interested in this type of technology. Thanks for the comment!

I don't aim to be the first result, I iam to be the best result!. Thanks for the comment and glad you found the video helpful.

Thank You!

Pretty soon you'll be making your own lasers it looks like!

What type of lasers are you trying to repair? Lasers are something you tend to love for life. I am 34 and don't ever see being bored of laser stuff! The whole field of photonics is HUGE!

Sənin ölən vaxtındiye ala

Jonah French-Jurgens not solid enough

Hey man 8 months later its got, 26,807 views so...

@@saplingdatree4111 Up to 54,000 now!

@@Zenodilodon 100k RN

​300k now

Every laser in the video was the cheapest bottom of the barrel Ebay laser you could get. None where pot modded but the optical arrangements have been changed for demonstrative purposes. If you are speaking of input voltage the drivers are designed to run from 3.2v to 5v.

Ami me prende y me aparece en puntito rojo y cunado andaba era verde

I am rather eclectic aren't I. I agree though, we need more nice strange people taking part in the active community!

I would have to see which laser style you have and what lens is incorrectly positioned, is the laser like the one on this video?

I got the Laser pointer apart. Wondering what lens it is you add in your video.

Any lens from a Red, Blue, or Violet laser is what I used for the IR modification, You will need to make an adapter to hold it if you don't have one handy.

@@Zenodilodon my fingers starting burning when I opened the diode, what can I do please my skin is peeling off now

You will need a dual axis diffraction grating. This can be bought in the form of laser start caps, fire work glasses, or so on. Now, with that said these will have a brighter set of dots in the center compared to the outside but there is next to nothing you can really do about that because physics. www.amazon.com/Diffraction-Grating-Slide-Excellent-demonstrating/dp/B006ZBDRN0/ref=asc_df_B006ZBDRN0

Positive connects to the outer brass hose of the laser diode a wire can be soldered directly to the same pad the case pin is. Note that some newer greens have a cheap flat package laser diode and those you will have to trace the connection for + which is pretty easy with close visual inspection. The negative is the spring, a wire can be soldered to the side of the switch closest to the switch to use the switch or soldered on the side closer to the laser diode to bypass the switch needing to be turned on.

@@Zenodilodon thank you very much for the help. I would have one more question, about the mca: when the laser turns on the light is red, but when I put on the mca, it stays red, yet I see the light passing through the crystal. I tried putting it both ways, but it doesn't seem to help.

@@alexbitter9147 Be careful of that dim red light, it could be pretty dangerous levels of IR. The pump diode in yours simply may of failed or your batteries aren't able to provide current ( this happens with cheaper alkaline batteries ) You should be getting a very clean dim red line with a little sparkle ( easiest to see on a black object ) if the pump it good. If there is no sparkle/speckle or there are dark bands seen in the output this could indicate damage to the pump diode. You're most likely going to have to just get a new laser if this is the case.

@@Zenodilodon alright, thank you, I'll be careful with the light, and I'm really grateful for your video and advices on the topic. I will try the options you suggested, hopefully the laser will come back to life. In any case, thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it:D

I do not have the exact diagram no, but I have a friend who is currently making some very very small drivers. Currently he only has boosting ones but I am working on getting him to make some linear drivers using similar parts as the green laser pointers since they are slowly being phased out by a board with a resistor on it that is garbage. If your interested in little drivers e-mail me and I will put you in contact with my friend.

Pulling the module out on these kinds of green lasers can be very tough. They really do get a metal forming crimp on the inside sometimes. If all else fails you can easily peel off the case with a pliers and get the module that way on these cheap kinds. This of course destroys the pointer aspect but as least you can maybe salvage and fix the actual laser. If the driver has the LM358 chip on it the driver can be powered off USB (5v) though you will need external cooling like a heat sink for long run times.

Sounds like a bad laser diode. Is your laser focusable?

@@Zenodilodon Thank you again for your reply. The pointer is not focusable.

@@hangman432 If you can get a lens to expand the beam you can take a look at the quality of the light. It should be a rectangle that is solidly filled. If it's more circular and rough and or contains dark areas than this is a sign of catastrophic optical damage. Depending on the wattage of the laser the diode can be replaced pretty easily if that is the problem. Try inspecting the beam for defects and let me know what you see.

Mine is weak too problem is the lense magnifier is loose inside got unglued or something. I Don't know how to open it

I understand everything, but I don't understand the zeroing mechanism

This laser? lol no... this is a cheap 532nm eBay laser. IMO they are barely worth the effort to walk to the garbage can. I do have a review on a direct diode 510nm grass green laser pointer that is durable and eye safe. Great purchase for a beginner laser enthusiasts/general use.

That is a good question. Your eyes cannot see IR all that you see is a very faint red. In my videos I use a camera phone that is modified to see IR which is done by removing the IR filter. There are videos on how to do this on KZfaq. You can at that point get a VR headset made to convert your phone use ones with a single lens as it doesn't work with side by side because you will be using a phone's camera. This is the only way to accomplish both at once.

This sounds like you have a bad crystal set, KTP normally operates best at a certain temperature to ensure there is proper phase matching for the doubling process, in most laser heads this is compensated for with a TEC and closed loop feedback. There is also an issue on some of the laser diodes mostly effecting IR and Red where if the junction heats up it will fall out of proper lasing due to thermal expansion. This is also something that laser heads compensate for in the same manor. You can adjust the current/add a pot on the board, to learn how to do this check my CD/DVD Bare&Basic video where I show how to modify the drivers for use with CD and DVD laser diodes. Output drift is common in DPSS laser pointers due to lack of temperature control.

@@Zenodilodon you may be right about Temp dependent x Harmonic crystal but i am observing this effect with in second , when it was new there was no problem but after few days this dimming issue was observed to me. May be the problem is with circuit or diode itself. As you said . about ir diode issue , i also think this could be the case.. i tried to see if this issue with its bare IR Diode but its intensity was so bright for cam to notice dimming issue ... Plz share me its circuit ( one with lm358 opamp ) Thznks

@@omsingharjit The modification for the circuit is on the DVD/CD video, If it's a new problem it's most likely the pump diode. You can view the output of the pump diode without a lens on it to check for dark bars in the output if it's failing but that requires full disassembly. The truth on this is no matter what you try to do for these simply buying another one is often cheaper. For pointers direct diode is a much more stable and efficient option since it doesn't have temp issues. That's part of why I tend to use DPSS style in full laser heads only. My CNI yellow behaves similar and takes quite a few seconds to stabilize, this is the nature of the technology. The green lasers from china also often push their pumps for use with AAA 1.5v/3v and sometimes this makes them prone to either running very well at 3.7-4.2v but also can overdrive the pump. This kind of stuff is tricky and learning about it will most likely result in the death of a few lasers. If you are looking for a good 532nm I would look at getting a 100mw+ module and turning it down 80% or more for long life.

These are only 5 mw green output. Without a power meter it's a bit hard to tell, you should have no problem with lighting matches or burning some small stuff with 200mw. It's a lot of why I started making my own lasers more and not buying them. There is a satisfaction of knowing what's inside. The voltage often depends on the composition of the laser diode itself. IR-Red laser diodes all hover around the 2.35v range peak, where as other colored laser diodes have a higher operating voltage. If your laser is a green and 532nm it is like this and starts off IR. It could be degradation of the MCA which can also cause low power. Not all are equally stable or as efficient as well. The current is a tricky part and really can't be determined without putting a current meter in the loop with the laser diode or without a datasheet for that particular laser unit or diode.

It's fried, time for a new one. 12 volts is far to much voltage for the laser pointer's electronics.

100% works really really well. I use modded ir lasers for this. It help to also place frosted glass on the front to help widen the view field up close.

Sounds like the conductor/battery spring isn't thick enough to handle the current being sent to the laser from the battery. I would check those things and replace them if they are too thin. That would be my best guess from what you described.

Switches are fixable however it's not an easy task. I would not bother due to the amount of work involved. It's a heck of a lot easier to purchase another one. You can still use the laser module inside you will just have to solder wires onto it for power.

Is it a DPSS green? ( 532nm )

also, is there any way to clean diodes/expanding lens/collimating lens?

No, adding other lenses on your laser won't make it more powerful. I changed lenses because the diode output is different than the crystal output. The only way to make your laser more powerful the proper way is to get a stronger diode and driver. There is " Pot modding " but this damages lasers really quickly do to over current.

I have had a little luck with getting them to run better on lithium based batteries like Energizer many alkaline batteries don't have enough oomph to really run at half an amp. If that doesn't work your only real option if not technical is to get a new laser pointer. My suggestion is the laser lands grass green 510nm pointer. It's not a bright/vivid at the 532nm but as a durable long life safe pointer it's solid!

@@Zenodilodon thanks ! Will try lithium battery . Imma let u know

Yes and no. These lasers can be combined with knife edge arrays or by means of PBS cube or both. This information is covered in videos where I rebuild laser heads with multiple lasers combined to make one beam. There are limitations to these methods but are the only options available due to the physics.

Green will be the most visible. I can't recommend any mods or improvements directly as it would be quite dangerous to others if you where shining a more powerful laser at them that exceeds 5mw, most are already past that limit. There are portions of my videos mostly the shunt mod and DVD/CD laser diode video that will show you modifications for most common drivers. Another issue is that making a laser more powerful in this manor with a pot/shunt mod without a more powerful laser diode that can take extra power will greatly reduce the life of your laser or destroy it instantly.

@@Zenodilodon oh i wouldnt be shining this laser at anyone. The laser i purchased is advertised as 5mw, videos show it is probably closer to maybe 50mw. I would only be trying to get it to maybe 200mw or around there. But thanks for your response dude! The vids of yours that i have seen are great although most of it goes way over my head

@@Zenodilodon actually when i cracked open the unit today, it has a pot. Sadly, cranking it seemed to make no difference and only turn it off and back on.

www.ebay.com/itm/222535493988

Yes it can be. I also use super glue accelerators or just a small drop of rubbing alcohol to cut set times. I strongly recommend to also have forces airflow on parts you are gluing to prevent fumes from contacting optical surfaces and wrecking them.

Pulling the module out can be very difficult which is why I said " And here is the part nobody likes " This is why I used parts from another laser to make the extraction tool. To get the module back in easier often requires a bit of force but some sanding of the outside of the module to slightly reduce the diameter will also help to get it to slide in easier.

Figure out what's wrong and try to fix it or dispose of it and buy a new one.

It's not often a driver fails in a 532nm pointer. You can check to see if the driver is passing current by using a meter in current/amps and placing it in the circuit where the battery cap goes using the meter to complete the circuit ( one probe on battery contact and one on laser housing/case ) If the meter shows current it could also be the pump diode. Another way to tell if it's the pump diode. Another thing to carefully check for is if you can spot a tiny amount of red light inside of the laser. However checking this can be hazardous if there is a lot of IR if there has been another type of failure. I don't repair laser pointers, I generally only work on show laser systems and lab lasers. I hope you understand.

@@Zenodilodon thanks for the info.. I just don’t understand how it has sat for months and go to use it and nothing.. I am not at all great with electrical stuff so that’s why I asked if you could fix this.. hate to spend another 60$+ on new one has this one has only been used hand full of times ☹️

You would need a bit more power I think if your 301 is already doing 80 mw green out. If so the pump in it could be a c-mount and 500mw+

@@Zenodilodon Thought so... Thank you for the fast reply though!

@@cymaticCS Stay tuned I just finished what might be the worlds first OPSL laser pointer! working on the video right now just finished the project earlier :P

It's in the video.

Why doesn't A battery fit snugly in there like every other device on the Earth?

About 300-350 mA is typical for these style of 532nm pointers.

There are some answers in the comments below on various types of issues. With how cheap these pointers it's pretty much a case where I would just save it for parts and buy a new one.

The dangers of IR laser light in this situation has been somewhat overstated in videos. The background of the hazard precaution is that IR is dangerous and that it's in DPSS lasers, which are both true statements. The danger of IR is not the wavelength alone, it's actually the lack of blink reflex because it's not a wavelength that you can see the light output of well, if at all. Comparatively speaking IR for it's power is less hazardous typically due to scattering in skin/tissue. I have done tests on these cheaper lasers to see how bad the IR leakage is ( I think it's in the shunt mod video ). The IR light is a very low amount, maybe 5mw if even that. The other thing to consider is that the green beam is also present so it's not just IR. The green output is 30-50mw typically on these lasers. So to boil it down... IR/NIR lasers are hazardous, yes! Esp if you are inside of the laser or working with them when they only produce invisible light. Since most of the NIR/IR light is converted, or scattered and is accompanied by a green output ( of greater strength ) you are in a very very low practical bracket for IR eye damage, you'd blind yourself with the green output long before the IR became a problem. The whole IR danger in these lasers has been blown out of the water in some aspects. If you need to place one on for science/lab reasons and need to remove the IR then try one from a cheap webcam, those tend to work pretty ok.

thanks for the quick reply, i appreciate it. I will try out your suggestion, to make the green lasers safer for use. I asked as i was concerned about my laser safety goggles not blocking infared (they are cheap goggles) and my eyes getting damaged without me knowing. (better safest than regret)

(also i unscrewed my pointer with my fingers, all the parts were damn tight, and even glued down the some degree. I kept turning it and it did not creak, after i try for about half an hour, it finally gave way and i unscrewed it, and repeated this for all the other screwed and hammered in parts. My fingers are bruised by now.

@@SwordFastic Sounds all too familiar. being of the engineering type requires a little masochism. On the upside it's usually worth it!

Yes you can, if the crystal inside isn't broken but fell off you can epoxy it back into position while making sure the alignment is good and exits out of the front of the laser. You may have to adjust the expanding lens to move the output of the monolithic crystalline assembly to center. For a while new ones could be bought on eBay, I can't find them now sadly. If the laser is a cheap one such as in this video you might just be better off getting a new laser. It's usually the cheapest/easiest option when all things are factored in.

@@Zenodilodon so sad thanks for answering me

It's a DPSS laser so the beam quality will be rather good compared to a direct diode laser. Yes the laser inside is 5.6mm, however in the video you will see that it in this case is not a green laser diode but an 808nm pump laser. If you are looking for a direct diode green laser with good beam profile you can use a single mode green like the Osram PL520 or the PL T5 510. sites.google.com/site/dtrslasershop/home/diodes

@@Zenodilodon Wow. Thank you so much Your answer is "Food for thought"

@@quanbui8416 It's the best kind of food in my opinion!

3000mW? No, direct diode 520/525 only goes to 1600-1800mw, 532nm DPSS only really goes to 100mW. The laser pointer for 3000mW would require a 20,000mW Pump Laser diode with 20A+ battery pack. It would be very large and unlikely to be made. I do not understand " Information on the two increases ". Are you asking about the expanding lens and collimating lens physical characteristics? Please verify the wavelength of your Laser pointer, if it's a more powerful 520-525nm Laser than the lenses discussed i this video are not applicable and you may require different ones for repair or use. For 532nm glass expanding and collimating lenses can be found on eBay with a search or three. They are all fairly standard for the application.

The lasers are often quite hard to take apart, esp for novices and those without a whole box of tools. I would try cleaning it with something like rubbing alcohol and letting it completely dry or trying Deoxit. It may be a pain but often simply replacing a cheap laser is a better option for those who just want a working laser.

@@Zenodilodon I appreciate the advise. Its been awhile since I came across to a channel that actually responds to the community, for that I must Sub you. You deserve more supporters Have a great day :>

@@ryukireii I know the feeling, I like that my channel is still small because I can address questions better. I really promote the asking of questions as it's often the first step to learning.

@@Zenodilodon how do I repair the laser if it dosent turn on

I can't remove the diode from the casing to remove the spring and the condensing lense to test it out..

@@alphaalpha3557 You shouldn't need to remove the condensing lens. The original lens only captures a faction of the light, while sometimes there is still enough power that always isn't the case. Sadly since the making of this video there has also been several changes in the way these cheap green laser pointers are made which has significantly decreased their quality. I am actually going to do a video on that and have purchased 3 cheap laser pointers, circas 1995, 2015, and 2023 to show the decline in quality. Part of the problem simply comes down to that and the pump may not be as powerful as they used to be. I also used a single 10440 in many of my pointers which is 4.2v and not 2x1.5v. This gives the laser a little more power to work with usually. The problem is one of the quality cutbacks has been the removal of the constant current driver and has simply been replaced with a resistor. Attempting to run 4.2v in newer laser points of this type simply run the risk of instant laser damage resulting in an unusable device. I would try using 1.6v NiZn rechargeable batteries to see if that helps in addition to the proper lens.

@@Zenodilodon thank you sir! Now i know that the driver itself was the problem. I currently have a diy mini engraver project that I plan to make all out of scratch. I almost completed every part of it, but modifying the laser I currently have has been very frustrating. I might not invest more time and effort building a suitable driver for the existing diode from my crappy green laser. Coz it's more practical and easier to just order a better one.(i guess) Anyway, I HAVE LEARNED A LOT because of your videos sir! So again thank you! I hope you post more videos about anything in the future. And I wish you all success in every aspect in life. -technerd from Philippines

Yes sometimes they do need to be cut open. What do you mean by pod control? do you mean pot? If so please note that " pot modding " your laser for more power has a great chance of destroying your laser.

@@Zenodilodon so it is 100% going to be pot on the board? Ok and use 5v and crank it all the way up? Got it!

@@captain2212 Well, if there isn't a pot you can check out the CD and DVD laser diode video and it shows you how to put one on. If your laser has good weight to it I am betting it has a modifiable driver. Little secret, it you push it up to 12v you'll get a smoke machine too!

Oh, I think you could be high enough if you tried.

Most problems have been discussed in the comments.

@@Zenodilodon ok thanks ☺️

No, I had just not put it back on when I was doing the demo. Since I tend to buy these only for the drivers I had no intent on fully restoring the laser. Not putting that part in was an oversight on my behalf. The expanding lens almost never comes off during impact damage or used in the IR mod. You're the first person to point that out and ask if memory serves me.

@@Zenodilodon i was just wondering cause if the beam is smaller it's more powerful i gues impressive you reply on all your comments keep up the good work

@@dylancatoul2016 The beam is smaller and has more energy density in the near field yes, but to get a collimated beam it first needs to be a certain roundness. It's actually somewhat an inverse function, the smaller of a beam you start with the worse the divergence you'll end up with. If you want the power close up using the beam right off the crystal assembly is a great option. I'd say throw a clear dust proofing window on it though to prevent contaminating the coatings. Thanks for the compliment, I try to keep up with comments as best as I can!

Thank you for such kind words! I intend to continue bringing more information about lasers coming on this channel! It's my passion and I will be lasering for life! If you have any questions on a laser topic let me know and I will try to help as best as I can. Be well and laser on!

@@Zenodilodon 😉👌

Hola

It's a good curse to have overall, though the grey hairs are slowly starting to come through. One day I'll be Zenodilodon the grey lol. What do you mean by upgrades? I use many Mosfets here ranging from small and fast all the way up to fets such as the apt20m11.

@@Zenodilodon The Styropyro dude did a video on ebay pen lasers and he was using them in his and was saying that it was pretty much the most power you could squeeze into such a small setup and will switch up to 620 amps of current. I'd love to get my hands on the NDG7475 diode he uses too but my wife would kill me if I spent that much on a laser.

@@anomicxtreme 620 amps aye, but for how long lol. There are lots of powerful diodes out there but I tend to stay away from the ones that got past 2W because of their terrible beam specs. I don't really get into the burning laser pointer stuff at all these days and have slid heavily into the DPSS stuff for their astounding beam characteristics. In that regard I am the swiss pocket watch to styros big ben. I say go for it and make yourself a powerful gadget, a loving wife will understand! :P

@@Zenodilodon if I could honestly afford it I would definitely. Like how you compare yourself to styro it really comes down to accessibility and $$. Remember, he's been doing these videos forever, like 12 or 13 years I think? My problem is that aside from the lack of funds I don't have the benefit of being near a big city. I'm way at the top of the lower part of Michigan and there's nothing up here. I grew up in Detroit and that's the only thing I miss is the crazy stuff that the factories would just give away or toss out lol.

Interesting, the CD/DVD lasers don't really have the properties to change your lens shape that I know if. Did you end up getting blind spots and just needing a larger image to compensate?

@@Zenodilodon i dont really know what type of glasses are these but i also have astigmatism as my parents . Emphesis on cd & dvd writer lasers ,which are higher output that reader diodes .

@@thevoidedwarranty It's most likely genetics alone. I have worked with lasers well beyond writer powers, up to 30,000mW compared to 300mW for years professionally. Because the show lasers are RGB there really aren't good goggles to use so I have to always be cautious.The vision damage I have is from a 90mW violet laser. It's the blue-UV that scare the crap out of me the most. Those are most easily absorbed and can cause more damage per power, this along with anything 405nm and under being a legit cancer risk. Seems as one of the forum members got a small case of skin cancer on the hand from 405nm. Scary stuff!!!

@@Zenodilodon wow thats crazy ! My theory is , because i was a kid and didnt know about IR, i used to stare very closly at the diode to see if its working or not and that might have had an effect on my cornia thining it like a lasic might have done . I donno thou ,i have literally no info on topic but i started to loose 10/10 vision in a couple of months . nowdays i shy away from working laser because where i live ebay and amazon or other webshop service are non existant so i cant really buy quality eye wear .anyways , i enjoy yourvideos , u seem like a true maker , like we do it here , without any fancy parts or tools .u make stuff just because u want to make stuff and see what happens & thats true science .

There is a portion in my Bare & Basic CD/DVD video that shows how to mod the drivers and put a potentiometer on the driver. However I will also say if you intend to do a pot mod to turn up the power you will most likely damage your laser's pump diode. Many of the green lasers are already running up to 40 mw output from the factory. keep in mind for every mw you get out in green you are turning up the pump 10x that much ( 40 >60 mw means 200mw over power on the IR pump diodes )

These where plastic. I usually try to save the metal ones when I can but they are getting rarer in ebay lasers. In any case this is why I suggest wrapping several layers of tape around the top if you want to keep the cap in good condition.

Absolutely! I have used the 808nm pump diodes for IR illumination with my night vision and modified cameras. I have found using a piece of glass that's been sanded with 600-800 grit to make an excellent diffuser and will not warp or burn under use. The output can be used without this but it can be pretty rectangular and uneven. Both a diffused laser and direct laser output can be adjusted for focus/viewing angle. I have found them to work much better than LED illuminators.

@@Zenodilodon thanks for the info 👍

10:00

@@Zenodilodon thx

The IR warning on green laser pointers is for the most part blown out of proportion. Most of the IR dangers come from working on the inside of larger DPSS laser heads and not pointers. Tests where done as I talked about this semi-misinformation on my shunt mod video and I also explain a little of the true dangers as well.

Nope not yet, I am planning the DVD for summer since there is a lot I want to cover in it.

If you pulled the whole module out the outside of the diode host is + and the spring contact is -. Connect your battery at those points. You'd have to clarify your question and status of your laser's condition for more precise information.

@@Zenodilodon It is the entire circuit, it just doesn't have the second lens, it has the spring, the plate, the button, then the diode that is still inside the gray cylinder and then the laser and the lens, it is literally the entire circuit without the second lens, just It does not have the tube where the batteries go And what I want to do is use the laser, since I spent $300mx and at some point the tube where the batteries go stopped working, the laser I think still works, so I just want to know how to use it without the tube

@@rozerovdemon6664 Yeah the grey cylinder is + positive and the spring is - The newer cheap laser pointers tend to not have a proper regulating driver in them for current. Look on the board, if you see an 8 pin part that says LM358 or another 6 pin chip you can put up to 5v. If the board only has resistors do not exceed 3V or you may cook your laser diode!

If the threads of the module in your 303 is M9 then a G2 should work as I believe they use an M9 thread on the carriers as well. However you probably will get few gains as a green direct diode has a pretty narrow output, the g2 works best with the multimode diodes with larger outputs, the wider lens helps cut divergence issues with big emitters. What you intend to do with your laser determines what lens is optimal along with the laser itself. Note that your 303 is for sure 525 and direct diode as replacing the lens on a mislabeled 532nm will not function the same as a direct diode laser. For practical comparisons I would suggest looking at some of the pictures posted on DTR's Laser Shop. Working distance 2.3 meter.... what? Does the beam stop at that point? lol

@@Zenodilodon 2.3m it's max Focusing distance - for getting burning point. As AliExpress say... Didn't tested this. Is this even possible?

@@FPV777 The larger your lens is in width, generally making your beam wider at the aperture will lower divergence overall. If you want to burning at a distance. A beam expander or simple refraction telescope will greatly increase distance. You can also fully remove the original lens and experiment with larger positive power lenses externally for greater distance. I have not used the G2 personally, nor do I know the current lens of you laser. Many people say that it's a good lens, personally I like the smaller beams of the compound collimating lenses.

You can try to pull on the spring and provide more pressing force on the batteries, maybe try cleaning the bottom of the end cap. My usual answer would be to use a rechargeable 10440 lithium ion at 37-4.2v, this requires pushing out the end cap and cutting down the battery holder shorter or using a AAA sized spacer to make up for the missing battery since you only need one to run the laser. This option may work for you but newer laser pointers are getting so cheap they no longer have the proper regulation circuit to prevent over current so that option may damage or excessively drive your laser diode which will lower the overall lifespan of the device.

@@Zenodilodon so i put aluminum foil on the end if the battery and it got really hot. The laser gives out a faint light as well

@@Zenodilodon thank you got your advice I might take it apart and mod it

@@adrianbaez4490 Yeah foil tends to have a pretty bad habit of having aluminum oxide build up and can get hot due to poor contact. You can try to open the laser and make modification. I would suggest before doing so to look at my CD/DVD laser video and get your head around how to use the drivers and stuff. Also note that the general current to set the stock green laser diodes is .25 amps.

@@Zenodilodon awesome I will do my homework and come back with results thank you for your help and replies !

Direct diode lasers are not as temperature sensitive as DPSS (IE 532nm). The reason for this is because of the nonlinear crystal inside ( IE KTP in a 532nm laser pointer ) When the photons enter the crystal they do so as an electromagnetic wave. These waves have a phase both in the electric field and the magnetic field component. Like other waves they also have peaks and nodes, in a laser these wave are very consistent due to being a single wavelength. The nonlinear crystal has to match up an incoming wave with a reflected wave to effectively combine 2 waves together to act on the electrons in the nonlinear crystal. So imagine in your head putting 2 basic sinusoidal waves together. Just like say, saw teeth there are points where they perfectly overlap or not if you slide one wave side to side. Let's consider a particular aliment to be "phase matched" Now consider this tolerance is in the manometer range because the waves you are dealing with are that small. (IE human hair is about 70,000nm wide, in a 532nm laser the tolerance for phase matching would be a fraction of 532nm, say within 15% or 80-100nm. This is a very very small tolerance and is important to note. Now consider material thermal expansion coefficient properties where things expand when warmer and shrink when colder. So in the laser we have a crystal, that needs to be withing 100nm of a suitable length to work of which temperature changes it's size. Temperature changes the location of the mirrored coating on the crystal and moves the reflected waves out of phase compared to the incoming ones.( Laser heads usually have a whole resonator assembly ). This explains why the DPSS laser pointers don't like cold, and why most DPSS laser systems require a warm up time. You will see this in a few of my DPSS videos as well as the TECs and feedback thermistors that regulate temperatures of optical components for this reason. In a direct diode laser the light is generated by a molecular band gap length and secondary properties such as spacing between the mirrored surfaces inside of the laser diode. These of course are also effected by temperature. As you cool down a laser diode it contracts and the band gap gets smaller as well as the spacing between mirrored internal surfaces. This increases the frequency of the laser ( up in thz, down in nm ). This is why you can super cool a red laser diode and make it go orange, or super heat a blue and have it start to go green as it expands. The upside is diodes themselves don't rely on phase matching as much and tend to still work regardless. However some laser diodes such as low power reds will lose output when too hot. I hope that thoroughly answers your question.

@@Zenodilodon oh yeah that definitely did. thank you very much

@@sumobear1777 Glad to hear it.

What color of laser and power output.

@@Zenodilodon The Laser Color is Green and output power max.500mw

@@Raka3877 Without knowing the exact output here is all my rules of thumb when it comes to replacing pump diodes in 532nm lasers. Test current going to the laser diode 1 amp = 1 watt optical output ( IE .3 amp = 300mw ) You will need to identify the laser diode form factor. it's most likely a 5.6mm laser diode, I doubt by a large margin it's 500mw which bring me to my second rule of thumb. Final output power is 1/10th the pump power ( IE Pump 300mw = green 30mw ) So for 500 mw a 5 watt pump would be used which is very powerful and comes in a c-mount package usually costing quite a bit of $ I am betting you will have between 500mw to 1000mw/1w for your pump diode. A pump diode is 808nm in wavelength. You will need to completely take apart the entire optical assembly and remove the bad pump diode then carefully restack and align the optics again which is very tricky. If you have never done this before I would say it would be easier/cheaper to replace the laser as it would be very hard to fully repair. You can use the laser housing for future DIY laser builds though.

You'd have to be more specific on what part came off and what fuzzy means. But it sounds like the expanding lens and possible dirt/oil on the lens. If it's plastic wash with soap and water avoiding contact with the lens surface. It it's glass use alcohol. glue the part back in with epoxy and note optical alignments.

I have tried to split a few and they either come apart or the KTP side cracks. I haven't really tried anything else, but heat may help as may solvents. You may want to try heat, the crystals can take a fairly high temp. The whole unit is an MCA, it has a pump/fluorescing ND:YVO4 crystal which is the part you need, these can also be bought on eBay at times.

@@Zenodilodon It looks like there was some sort of partial reflective coating on the KTP crystal on its output side? I lightly scratched the output side of the KTP and immediately, the laser stopped producing green light. I could still see a faint red glow (808nm probably). Do you know of any DIY method to spray on some reflective coating xD

@@satyajitO3Wall There isn't any DIY method to coat the crystals really, the coatings are very specialized and require sophisticated machines to apply. However with some patience you may be able to move the crystal and get the laser into a part of the crystal that still has a portion of coating and get it to work again.