Your sealed up homes should have an ERV installed to control fresh air and heat/cooling loss

John Seelman thanks, i’ve been watching Matt’s videos for years, still do!

Very welcome!

DesignBuildDoug do you have a you tube channel?

Ha! Love it

Ooaugh!

Most would if clients would pay for it.

ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Nope

ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Budget is set ahead of time, if any builder isn’t willing to do work they can take pride in then they shouldn’t be builders.

Exactly, you can't! As for windows, i perfer to always flash out over closest siding course, this system keeps everything behind at every window, "sleep tight", ha good one.

There is a difference from nail heads and the body of the nail. When you nail siding, you nail shaft is somewhat self sealing and has a small footprint. It makes a clean hole. The nail heads should be sealed because they often leave larger and damaged holes, if they ar not sunk the perfect amount. The two types of hold are apples and oranges.

@@miragesmack007 Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense.

I use a siding nailer hot dipped 2" nails well dialled in never had a problem

Put in an air gap between zip and your cladding

Marko makes sense, thanks for watching & commenting!

Using superior products on a spec house would be a hard sell I think. Your average customer is not likely to understand the benefits of the engineered systems that Matt is using on a house already built. I’m pretty sure they would be suspicious of the additional expense. Showing his KZfaq videos would be a great sales tool though. Having a customer who’s involved in the design process and making the final choices, I would definitely try to steer them towards all of Matt’s methods. It would be like it was their idea. Mr and Mrs so and so; you’re brilliant!

@@Stevieray77 and that is a very sad thing

I don’t know how they do the roof deck. I imagine the same way. But the walls to the roof…these guys are mostly doing conditioned attics. Bringing the sheathing right up right to the rafters and cutting them so they slip up. Then use this to seal it all. Or caulk with zip tape over it. They have videos on it. Then spray foam the cavity inside too

There is a loss there, should be discussed with your structural engineer and if there is a concern extra bracing can be added to the framing to make up for the lost shear of the panels

No such thing as too tight of you have an HRV/ERV or controlled fresh air. There are options out there

Downside of tight homes is you then need expensive HVAC systems to maintain air quality.

I was wondering about the same. Not mentioning that during high winds, these houses with wood framing flex and vibrate a lot. There will sure be movement between those panels joints. IMO tape like Tescon Vana by Proclima would do a better lasting job at a similar cost.

Why wouldn't they just liquid flash over/around it like every other gap or hole?

Paul Lavoie they used SIPs, structural insulated panels. Different from this Zip system, which is a brand name from Huber. If I were the pure living couple, I’d at least house wrap the building and not count on the osb to stand up to the elements for 6 months or more.

@@DR-um2bv you will use alot!!a lot!!! I ended up doing all my exposed nails and not just the seams. I ended up using the tape to cover all exposed nails and seams. I did liquid flash all the windows

Don't think so. Regardless, liquid flashing would be prohibitively expensive

Like to know that as well. I'm sure that's a void to the warranty though.

Y B It's not "caulking"

Joseph Hale My opinion is that it is the same concept, just less steps.

in several of risiinger's videos he gives a disclaimer that the stuff that he is doing is based on his construction environment. he advises that you do you own investigation to determine what works in your construction environment. that is good advice, which should be carefully heeded. the approaches that cameron is using here might work well in south texas, but it might be a *huge* mistake to assume that the zip r-sheathing approach shown in this video is going to work in a more continental climate, such as the one that you describe. you would help yourself greatly in making sure that you REALLY understand what objectives that you want to achieve in using exterior insulation because it will help you to make a better decision. going back to risinger's disclaimer language, it is YOUR responsibility to do your own investigation to determine whether this stuff is actually going to work for you - it is not the responsibility of risinger or cameron.

Solitex Mento 1000. Look up 475 Building Supply. Awesome stuff!

@commanderspock: claims of "dead lock for moisture" tend to ultimately fall into the detritus heap of "the best laid plans of men and mice..." NEVER, EVER believe that moisture cannot ever get into a building envelope. the stuff shown in this video may work out in the environment in which cameron is working, but that doesn't mean that it will work out in the environment where you are working.

edward nowak Actually it works great. Air-leakage in zip sheathing around siding fasteners is really minimal, we just coat the sheathing fasteners because we can. Here’s a similar install example with half the house being sided prior to the blower door test and still hitting 0.79 ACH-50... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q8-IdLmLmL-sgoU.html

Better

its probably an stpe product. its been around long enough.

Super-stretchy solvent-free moisture-cured modified poly-ethers (aka the premium fluid applieds) have been around for many years and are a proven technology. Prosoco was the pioneer & Dupont is now heavily invested as well. Lots of R&D shows these poly-ether products hold up really well for a really long time. The construction industry is simply extremely conservative when it comes to change; that’s exactly why you have not seen more of this yet. You will though, its coming.

@timothymanley: modified silicones have the elasticity of silicon but there is still the issue of tear resistance so not all stpe's are equal.

A good detail is a continuous bead of accoustical sealant (preferred because it remains permanently flexible) on the concrete, then use a standard foam sill seal (for a capillary break) then another continuous bead on top of the foam - then put the sill plate on top and bolt to the concrete - the two beads of sealant form a foam sandwich that is air-tight underneath the sill plate.

Much different product. Zip liquid flashing is a STPE-based material, pioneered in Japan to seal windshields to car bodies. The nice thing is it uses air moisture to cure so it can be applied on damp surfaces (as is common during framing) and low/temps where tapes have hard time adhering. It is relatively expensive though - looking at ~$25/sausage and you'd be looking at many dozens of sausages to do Zip 2.0. But Zip tape isn't cheap either, so added cost to get a superior result seems money well-spent (particularly if you can get low-cost labor to install vs paying framers). Fwiw, Henry has a similar STPE product (Air Bloc LF) that I've seen as low as ~$14/sausage that they use in conjunction with their wrb products (and I would be perfectly happy to use it on Zip sheathing). Looking at Henry vs Zip lquid flashing side by side, about the only difference I notice is the color (black vs blue). Prosoco and PolyWall also have similar liquid/flashing products but are about the same cost as Zip. Henry is never mentioned on The Build Show since it's not a sponsor (unlike Zip, Prosoco and PolyWall). In this "Zip 2.0" system, the only thing I'd change is the interior caulking around the windows for the air barrier. Liquid flashing remains flexible but isn't as flexible as an air barrier caulk and I don't think it performs well with larger gaps. I'd use Sika 510 AM or Prosoco AirDam which are roughly similar cost - always in conjunction with an appropriate backer rod.

vwecco1 Mark said elsewhere that is house is brick exterior, and the mason and his crew were to go over the fastener punctures with a bead of sealant.

Yes, it would be great to see if that would affect blower door results after a house like this received siding instead of brick.

Wouldn't nails and screws also penetrate through a standard house wrap/ sheathing combination?

faststang85 no

What difference would it make? None of the manufacturer warranties are worth a damn. If you don't follow every single 'recommended' step you'll be denied.

It's common to use standard lumber to form stem walls. Those aren't 'architectural' boards that have been sandblasted to expose grain - just standard 2x10s (or whatever) slapped together. Cheap and easy. Can reuse them over and over, but obviously not as durable as steel forms.

Why would you?

Thanks for the feedback & encouragement Noah Young! 1- expect to get about 3 LF per ounce, so 1 28 oz caulking tube/sausage should get you through 3 to 4 panels...do a similar equation for each window opening. 2- using the zip R on our #InglewoodProject (in the video), we chose to make our windows “innies”, attaching the flange directly to 2 x studs, waterproofing via liquid flash, then going back over the flange with thin (approx 2” rips) strips of zip R to keep our cladding plane continuous. Hope that helps, & best of luck with your build!

Doug, 3 to 4 28oz tubes for panel seams and nails?

And the bottoms of the panels?

Good point. I’m a non-builder. When furring strips are added, the Zip sheathing will be penetrated. I suppose the exterior siding can be attached only to the furring strips.

@@ShikokuFoodForest I suppose you could glue furring strips to the Zip then attach siding to furring strips, but IDK if I'd trust glue for that...

@@toadamine Thanks for reply. I’m a Canadian living in Japan currently, but starting to design a small cabin I plan to build when I return to Canada. I’m looking for land, researching building science and watching KZfaq to learn best practices, since I intend to do the build completely myself. Sure, glue could be used, but securing it in place while glue is curing may be difficult. I don’t expect puncturing the Zip sheathing to attach the furring strips would pose a risk of water penetration since the furring and fasteners will block the holes. Besides the sheathing on top will block water. I believe the risk is in air penetration. I suspect not significant. Could always seal over the furring fasteners later, but likely overkill. Doubt builders take the time to bother with that. I’m already learning, it is easy to get bogged down in details. Still interesting learning process.

This is a brick house. The Mason or his crew can bed the Brick ties in a bead of sealant

Matt Risinger Yeah, but what if it wasn’t? What if it was an exterior that requires fasteners?

@@ccasanova34 i would be very interested in knowing this as well, what if you dont do a brick wall? hope matt answers

@@ccasanova34 Yeah I need to know this as well. What if you are installing log siding that needs stainless steel nails to fasten?

@@marknadon1237 yeah, answer that Matt

I think it mostly comes down to trying to make things foolproof. Properly applied and rolled zip tape will hold for many decades, but too many people will not roll, leave wrinkles, apply on wet sheathing, etc. With liquid that's not a worry.

Raul P. Nothing changes engineering wise other than using specified fasteners/pattern. It’s pretty remarkable.

Thank you for replying Doug. Did you use the R3 or R6 Zip R Sheathing?

Raul P. My pleasure, R-3

thanks for this alternative to the Zip liquid flash. They are milking that cash cow at $28 per tube.

@@jesterblackdog ZIP liquid flashing is now $32 FOR ONE SAUSAGE LOL!

Generally 6 to 7 panels can be sealed with the 29 oz, 4 to 5 panels if you seal every nail. I personally find the fluid applied a bit more expensive but installer screw ups are much harder to make. You miss it or not, nothing hard like the tapes.

I think he said it's a like foam glue product. similar to the glue they use the glue windshields to the steel frame of a car.

I had the same question

the same thing that happen to house wrap a bunch of holes these systems just minimize the air flow as much as possable untill someone comes out with a selfsealing membrane it will remain the same

Reco Blade They have peel and stick systems on the market that self seal. Pricey though.

nails don't really break the seal unless the head of the nails is driven below the seal. or completely backs out. So siding is not an issue until nails start falling out of your siding. same with water penetration. water won't be a problem unless some of your nails have crushed thru the membrane. siding shields nails from the water. In other words, a nail in the membrane is a plug. remove the plug and you have a hole.

@@Lilmiket1000 another words your saying if you build it correctly with some craftsmanship you wont have any trouble.

You could, but I'd definitely use a simple rain screen, such as Slicker. It's still a good idea to let water run down the wall between the siding and sheathing, rather than get trapped.

No, never, ever place siding directly against any sheathing. ALWAYS install a rain screen.

The asphalt coating on the board is ends up adhering to the nails, keeping the seal, unlike Tyvek.

Like Dolan King said - you pay $8 more for a sheet of zip system vs. standard osb. However, with regular osb you will still have to pay for house wrap, tape, and labor (which will be about $8 a sheet.) You still have to add the cost of tape (or black zip caulk) for the zip system, so overall it does cost more. But, the zip system osb is far superior to regular osb and house wrap, especially if you’re using the black zip caulk instead of zip tape. Not to mention... in a storm where your siding or shingles could be damaged, your house will stay sealed because there’s no house wrap or tar paper to blow off. As far as nail penetrations through the zip membrane - they don’t leak unless the nails are over driven (you can look up pictures of over-driven nails in the zip system). And you could put the black zip caulking over any over-driven nails, and around wall penetrations and windows. Since you’re building your own house - another smart thing to do is to spray the bottom 4’ of framing with Boracare (for termites and other bugs) it’s about $350-$500... it’ll make your house very resistant to termites and any potential rot/mold issues down the road. Also, buy a case of spray foam, and use it around any wall/floor/ceiling penetration. Hope this helps!

To answer your original question, it’s not a bad idea to do those things, but the house wrap is the worst part of the equation - most builders don’t do a great job of installing house wrap, and if your house wrap traps water... the osb will turn into oatmeal (most commonly it happens around windows, doors, and where decks attach to the house).

I don’t see Zip System in NE. It’s mostly Tyvek here.

Exactly, seems there fad is about air tight, but are forgetting crucial steps.

It doesn't. They're using spray foam under the roof decking with no allowance for ventilation. Lots of skepticism for this method.

This is my biggest question as well. How are you sealing the fasteners that come when you install siding?

Thanks my friend!

I've met that guy at Habitat for Humanity. He did zero work and just mouthed off to the cameras around. I have zero respect for Mike Holmes.

This gentleman's team is using a lot of that caulking.

The shafts of the nails act like corks in a bottle.